The chassis set will be available, and soon. Not sure if directly from Gianluca only or stocked in the diyAudio store as well, but here's the overall look - (please note these are the prototypes, and these same chassis will be in the build guide. The biggest difference is production will have steel top and bottom panels, as it is better shielding.)
If you have interest in this chassis set, please say so in this thread.
Cost is not finalized and still to be determined, but somewhere in the vicinity of 200EUR, most likely less. Of course this does not include the jacks, plugs, and such.
If you have interest in this chassis set, please say so in this thread.
Cost is not finalized and still to be determined, but somewhere in the vicinity of 200EUR, most likely less. Of course this does not include the jacks, plugs, and such.
If you have your own preferred model of switched, fused IEC inlet; and if happens not to fit Gianluca's cutout, you could design your own custom rear panel having the dimensions, cutouts, and lettering that you prefer. Then -- here's the cute part -- have your rear panel fabbed as a PCBoard (in black) at one of the super inexpensive PCB fabs overseas.
We actually do that with the diyAudio Store product called "Noir Headphone Amplifier" and, in my opinion anyway, the final result looks wonderful. Here's the glamour photo of Noir's rear panel from the Store sales page. It's a black PCB, precisely drilled and routed at the PCB fab, so it mates with the ModuShop Galaxy chassis, and each of the rear panel connectors. Lettering is PCB white silkscreen.
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We actually do that with the diyAudio Store product called "Noir Headphone Amplifier" and, in my opinion anyway, the final result looks wonderful. Here's the glamour photo of Noir's rear panel from the Store sales page. It's a black PCB, precisely drilled and routed at the PCB fab, so it mates with the ModuShop Galaxy chassis, and each of the rear panel connectors. Lettering is PCB white silkscreen.
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Because this Power Entry Module has a switch.
You are very welcome to use whatever IEC PEM you want, of course, this is DIY after all!
So, please forgive the abominable temporary chassis box. It fit both boards and was already drilled for jacks.
I found the boards very fast and easy to solder up, but my biggest bottleneck has been parts ordering (forgot a batch), and parts delivery (Digikey was 10 days late, and Mouser was 5 days late). I am also building several other projects at once, and repairing some vintage gear, so this has taken me a lot longer than I anticipated.
Because my power supply board parts showed up just a half hour ago, I am temporarily using my vintage rebuilt/recapped HP power supplies set at +/- 20VDC. It is set on high gain for my modified Ortofon black LOMC with no body, and new cantilever and stylus.
So, my impressions? Even with the chassis box cover off, this is really quiet. No AC noise is audible. There is slight gain hum, but this is set for 70dB, so, of course! The sound is very detailed, with a pleasing frequency response that sounds quite flat. Lots of definition in the bass frequencies as well, and very clean, clear, detailed highs. Did I mention quiet? It is. Currently listening to a Donald Fagen LP, which is one I use as a reference because it is a very good quality recording/pressing.
I have a lot of different phono stages and preamps with built-in phono stages, and this one sounds excellent, though it's too early to start ranking the sound.
A big thank you to @6L6 for helping me out with some needed parts!
I found the boards very fast and easy to solder up, but my biggest bottleneck has been parts ordering (forgot a batch), and parts delivery (Digikey was 10 days late, and Mouser was 5 days late). I am also building several other projects at once, and repairing some vintage gear, so this has taken me a lot longer than I anticipated.
Because my power supply board parts showed up just a half hour ago, I am temporarily using my vintage rebuilt/recapped HP power supplies set at +/- 20VDC. It is set on high gain for my modified Ortofon black LOMC with no body, and new cantilever and stylus.
So, my impressions? Even with the chassis box cover off, this is really quiet. No AC noise is audible. There is slight gain hum, but this is set for 70dB, so, of course! The sound is very detailed, with a pleasing frequency response that sounds quite flat. Lots of definition in the bass frequencies as well, and very clean, clear, detailed highs. Did I mention quiet? It is. Currently listening to a Donald Fagen LP, which is one I use as a reference because it is a very good quality recording/pressing.
I have a lot of different phono stages and preamps with built-in phono stages, and this one sounds excellent, though it's too early to start ranking the sound.
A big thank you to @6L6 for helping me out with some needed parts!
@6L6
Hmmm...
So it just comes down to what was on hand. In your shop. Not mine.
I don't want to be a pain about this. The holes for these are more difficult for the novice. Having the hole cut is great.
Having the freedom to use whatever I like is great too.
Having a hole that is too big is an extra problem to solve.
Having a cutout that doesn't work for the fused switched inlet I can source is a problem too.
Which was actually the question I asked that wasn't answered... is the cutout standard for this type of inlet across brands? (yes, I should have used the word brands I guess)
Maybe this is moot. Maybe the plan is to include the inlet for which the hole was cut?
Hmmm...
So it just comes down to what was on hand. In your shop. Not mine.
I don't want to be a pain about this. The holes for these are more difficult for the novice. Having the hole cut is great.
Having the freedom to use whatever I like is great too.
Having a hole that is too big is an extra problem to solve.
Having a cutout that doesn't work for the fused switched inlet I can source is a problem too.
Which was actually the question I asked that wasn't answered... is the cutout standard for this type of inlet across brands? (yes, I should have used the word brands I guess)
Maybe this is moot. Maybe the plan is to include the inlet for which the hole was cut?
Somewhat. It is the Power Entry Module used in Whammy.
Schurter DD12.9111.111 is the filtered unit.
Schurter DD11.0111.1111 is the non-filtered.
Between the two, DigiKey has thousands in stock.
The datasheet has the hole opening information. (See “Screw version A”)
If you want something different than this opening, engage Gianluca to make a custom back panel for you that has said different opening, he is quite able to help, very easy to work with, and it will be perfect. (It will also likely be cheaper to just buy the Schurter...)
😎
At least for the first batch, the kits will not include the chassis mount items (as previously mentioned) nor will they include the stuffings for the power supply PCB.
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For something a little different...but still on the topic of chassis... here's my roll your own—posted earlier in the thread—now ready for initial firing up—hopefully give it a listen right now—if not tomorrow some time. Still have to make some front panels and wire up LEDs etc. Fingers crossed!
