This is a social comment divorced from the available measurements on this driver, i.e. kool aid.Skip the GR kool aid……
What is the thinking behind leaving a driver's frame 1/8" proud of the baffle? Granted it was a tweeter but measurements I posted on this for a Peerless tweeter showed significant variance from half that: https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...e-treatment-measurements.402467/#post-7436434
Interesting idea. Maybe start with a slightly smaller value?Try adding 22 ohm resistor in series.
Seems you were more focused on being the Sgt at Arms for GR fan club thant reading my post.....i thibk they call that 'triggered' these days. For R&D purposes, the 1/8" reveal will allow for the designer to use cardboard or similar to test different baffle shapes to optimize the response and diffraction......it's a near field application and the baffle matters almost as much as the driver.This is a social comment divorced from the available measurements on this driver, i.e. kool aid.
What is the thinking behind leaving a driver's frame 1/8" proud of the baffle? Granted it was a tweeter but measurements I posted on this for a Peerless tweeter showed significant variance from half that: https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...e-treatment-measurements.402467/#post-7436434
Yeah, I mean nothing ever happens without experimenting. I have 22 ohm on mine at the moment. While clearer and less prone to sounding over-driven, the treble can be hot so I'm considering whether to change it to 10 ohm + 0.22mH or something like that.Interesting idea. Maybe start with a slightly smaller value?
that driver has a plus 6db plateau starting at 1.5khz and out to a nasty 15db breakup at 10khz........no surprise that it sound hot.....explosive is a better word.......nothing kinder to the ears than a magnesium cone in full distress 🙁. just put some Windex on it.From my playing around with graphic equalizers I believe I like a dip at 1,5 kHz
Cheers!
The extra impedance in series (however it's achieved -- it could be with a tube amplifier or current drive for that matter) reduces intermodulation distortion, which would be doubly important to manage with wide-range drivers. So when people use "high THD" tube amps together with FR drivers, there are reasons for it.
AFAICT, a bad sound associated with break-up modes is likely uncontrolled distortion, not actual ringing as such.
AFAICT, a bad sound associated with break-up modes is likely uncontrolled distortion, not actual ringing as such.
Another audio witch finder general, sigh.the 1/8" reveal will allow for the designer to use cardboard
Cardboard is opaque to the audio frequencies of interest?
Both the Alpair and Pluvia will begin to beam sound at around 3300hz and that’s part of why Mark Audio doesn’t publish off axis measurements
dave
do you have a measurement of the pluvia 7.2 hd too?![]()
dave
well imo the beaming isnt that bad, every driver beams to some degree and the alpair 7 doesnt seem "that much" worse, and i would argue that its not bad in a pc setup (it might be even better because of less reflections)
i would definitely run full range drivers on axis and reduce the highs with my target/house curve (linear slope towards 20khz) as needed
i dont know if its really the diffraction one can hear but most of them just sound "tinny" (or kinda toy-like sometimes regarding highs), instruments dont sound right and here the pluvia really stands out, not just in highs imo... it makes instrument actually real sounding (and the difference isnt small either)It's funny because I saw that 8 driver comparison and I could hear the characteristic metallic sibilance from diffraction off the square baffles. So it seems like the speakers with the widest dispersion had the most 'boost' from that, while the cones with narrower dispersion sounded a bit duller. The microphones were in a fixed position, so we only got a certain on-axis 'flavour'.
i cant say for sure that the test was done right, how much of it translates into reality etc, but the pluvia atleast stands out! (it also has the best bass imo)
the mark audio chn/chr sounds kinda "stressed" in the upper region just like some of the others, unfortunaly there isnt a alpair/maop comparison like that
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do you have a measurement of the pluvia 7.2 hd too?
This is the only off-axis that has come out of Markaudio. The P7HD is an evolution of the A7.3, so it should be quite similar, if not a bit better.
I have not had any issues with A7.3 as midTweeters. They do pretty well by themselves as well.
dave
One bass reflex cabinet was used for all eight. The alignments will be all over the place. A safer bet for getting a sense of their capabilities is downloading the spec sheets and playing around with one of the free software cabinet sims.most of them just sound "tinny"
He used nice microphones though.
Please don’t tell me I’ve spent all of this time trying to assist you in your build and now we’re rating drivers from YouTube videos?
The spec sheets can only hint at certain things, and the frequency plot will tell you the default "7 band tonal balance". At least with a recording you get a preview of the actual tone.
@nandappe 's in-room CHP-90 recordings won me over, but I'm also mulling a Fostex FE126NV2 for another project. The very light cone and cloth surround is unusual, and probably has lots of tuning potential. OTOH, the CHP-90 is self-damped out of the box with its soft rubber surround.
@nandappe 's in-room CHP-90 recordings won me over, but I'm also mulling a Fostex FE126NV2 for another project. The very light cone and cloth surround is unusual, and probably has lots of tuning potential. OTOH, the CHP-90 is self-damped out of the box with its soft rubber surround.
Not with that protocol. Best case is potentially hearing a grievous clanker at high frequencies.At least with a recording you get a preview of the actual tone.
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