Perfect!
No, it wasn't dropped. The shaft must have been pulled up. The only direction force could push it is in. That would destroy the lid and much more. The copper rivet will work great - good thinking!
Okay, P.O.C. done. I'll have to read the instructions again to see what they are trying to accomplish. For now, and they are cheap, go with 180 ohm.
BTW, do not use Duracell batteries. If you have any, even new - discard the damned things! Use Eveready alkaline. I use a lot of batteries and Duracell will leak even at full charge well before their best before date. When I called, they informed me that the date on the battery is the date you must STOP using them. I found some leaking before that date.
I have lost some devices and almost lost (was damaged) a >$600 DVM. Many others I know have suffered damage this way as well. These are at normal room temperature, not left in cars or outside..
No, it wasn't dropped. The shaft must have been pulled up. The only direction force could push it is in. That would destroy the lid and much more. The copper rivet will work great - good thinking!
Okay, P.O.C. done. I'll have to read the instructions again to see what they are trying to accomplish. For now, and they are cheap, go with 180 ohm.
BTW, do not use Duracell batteries. If you have any, even new - discard the damned things! Use Eveready alkaline. I use a lot of batteries and Duracell will leak even at full charge well before their best before date. When I called, they informed me that the date on the battery is the date you must STOP using them. I found some leaking before that date.
I have lost some devices and almost lost (was damaged) a >$600 DVM. Many others I know have suffered damage this way as well. These are at normal room temperature, not left in cars or outside..
I was thinking forward shock could have shocked it loose from the plastic wafer, as the meter case was also loose in the shipping box,,, No matter now,, as I'm past that now!!!!
I don't like to leave batteries in my devices,,, specially meters that I dont use everyday,,, some I move the battery holder outside the case, so I dont have to open it up to remove em..
I don't like to leave batteries in my devices,,, specially meters that I dont use everyday,,, some I move the battery holder outside the case, so I dont have to open it up to remove em..
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Yep, you're past the control now.
Yes, I agree. I yank batteries from devices I don't use often, but I have bene lax on that since starting to use Eveready batteries.
Too many remotes .... My meters I do use often. THe problem is that the batteries leak while the battery voltage is still close to new-ish. I never run the batteries down, and the same is true of the IT-18. A Duracell leaked at 1.21VDC, I've had 9V batteries leaking at 8.9 and 8.8 VDC. Since I thought Duracells were great batteries (they were at one time), it took a lot of evidence for me to change my views on them.
So far I haven't had any Eveready batteries leak. That's what I have been buying for a long time now. Even Panasonic Carbon-Zinc batteries don't leak.
Yes, I agree. I yank batteries from devices I don't use often, but I have bene lax on that since starting to use Eveready batteries.
Too many remotes .... My meters I do use often. THe problem is that the batteries leak while the battery voltage is still close to new-ish. I never run the batteries down, and the same is true of the IT-18. A Duracell leaked at 1.21VDC, I've had 9V batteries leaking at 8.9 and 8.8 VDC. Since I thought Duracells were great batteries (they were at one time), it took a lot of evidence for me to change my views on them.
So far I haven't had any Eveready batteries leak. That's what I have been buying for a long time now. Even Panasonic Carbon-Zinc batteries don't leak.
Duracell batteries started leaking when they started having them made in China.
I haven't had any Eveready batteries leak in anything I own that uses batteries.
I haven't had any Eveready batteries leak in anything I own that uses batteries.
OK,,, after a bit of trying to understand instructions,,, I was able to ID and test an unknown transistor as PNP,, 10mA.. Audio
A few more reps, and maybe I'll get it down... Meter is very sensitive but does what instructions indicates,,, so, it seems to work!
A few more reps, and maybe I'll get it down... Meter is very sensitive but does what instructions indicates,,, so, it seems to work!
Hi lavane,
Good information, I didn't know they started shipping from China. I guess that was a bad corporate decision, but it still comes down to what they accept as passable quality. Thanks, makes sense.
Hey John,
You're going to learn to love that little meter, especially if you work with germanium transistors. Silicon transistors should always show absolutely zero leakage in any mode, so you will catch bad transistors that others will miss (unless they use a curve tracer - and that takes too long and they are very expensive). You will also be able to see how sensitive transistors are to temperature and that will help you understand them a little better. Some transistors act up only when heated a bit, so you can do that with this tester - just warm the part up. I've had parts suddenly go open, or suddenly get leaky or conduct (probably the same thing). it's a great diagnostic tool.
Good information, I didn't know they started shipping from China. I guess that was a bad corporate decision, but it still comes down to what they accept as passable quality. Thanks, makes sense.
Hey John,
You're going to learn to love that little meter, especially if you work with germanium transistors. Silicon transistors should always show absolutely zero leakage in any mode, so you will catch bad transistors that others will miss (unless they use a curve tracer - and that takes too long and they are very expensive). You will also be able to see how sensitive transistors are to temperature and that will help you understand them a little better. Some transistors act up only when heated a bit, so you can do that with this tester - just warm the part up. I've had parts suddenly go open, or suddenly get leaky or conduct (probably the same thing). it's a great diagnostic tool.
Ok,,, I Iearn very visually,,, reading comprehension has been a problem for me,,, but I went thru 4-5 transistors before I found one that would register or move the meter at all,,, Not sure if it was operator error or bad part... I test tubes to see shorts or leakage,,, then put em in the ckt and see how they work,,,, That's a bit hard with old transistors, and PCBs,,, I still have 50 or so of these Ge transistors left, a lot that aren't IDed,,, so I'll will run thru them, before I use the test on the Sui...
I should understand it by then!!!
I should understand it by then!!!
Okay, to register you need to get the leads connected properly first, then the polarity. 2SA, 2SB are PNP, 2SC, 2SD are NPN. The European and US numbers (2N etc ..) you have to look up. Then the pinout, if you look it up, are often similar with the older parts in TO-5 or TO-39 cases (metal). Once you get that sorted, then the beta calibration may be out of range. Aslo, the x1 - x10 switch makes a difference when the beta is very low. That's just to get an indication.
I measure leakage in both directions first. I select the Ge transistors with the lowest leakage and beta in the range expected. If a transistor measures very high beta well ove what the spec is, I suspect it's bad.
Let me know how it goes.
I measure leakage in both directions first. I select the Ge transistors with the lowest leakage and beta in the range expected. If a transistor measures very high beta well ove what the spec is, I suspect it's bad.
Let me know how it goes.
Very well and good,,, a lot of these transistors I need to ID somehow as the writing on them is unreadable.. I use the alltransistors site for the specs,,, seems to have most that I have searched for, and offers subs...
Okay, a red dot on top could mean PNP. The tab on a TO-5 is the emitter, middle base and the last is the collector. On earlier case styles I am rusty, but on the top lid inside there should be a guide. You may find it in the manual, or if it isn't there and not on the top lid, I can send you a picture.
Ge types will show leakage normally. Si types should show none at all. Your diode test on a meter ought to show over 0.5 VDC for Si, somewhere around 0.2 ~ 0.3 VDC for Ge.
Yes,, I learned those markings and start with them first,,, tab is usually E,,, and red dot C,,, if they are there,,,
I have been going by the readings mentioned in the meter manual,,, but I've only tested one transistor that actually registered so far,,,, This will take me awhile!!!
I have been going by the readings mentioned in the meter manual,,, but I've only tested one transistor that actually registered so far,,,, This will take me awhile!!!
Hi Hugo!!!
Good to hear from you, hope you are doing well,, thanks for the specs link!!!
I'm fine, thanks.
That meter is a good investment.
Me, I'm still cherishing my old Heathkit..
Hugo
That meter is a good investment.
Me, I'm still cherishing my old Heathkit..
Hugo
Hello old friend!
Thank you very much for that spec sheet! I have to pull manuals to find those numbers.
I have that tester as well. I found an unbuilt kit ... and built it. It is great for fets.
Hugo, if you can find an IT-18, grab one. It is faster to use on the bench.
Otherwise, I hope everything is well with you. My best wishes always!
-Chris
Thank you very much for that spec sheet! I have to pull manuals to find those numbers.
I have that tester as well. I found an unbuilt kit ... and built it. It is great for fets.
Hugo, if you can find an IT-18, grab one. It is faster to use on the bench.
Otherwise, I hope everything is well with you. My best wishes always!
-Chris
Chris,
Thanks for the kind words. Hope you are fine too.
I have a friend who has all the possible measurement gear you can think of. From AF to GHz's.
He gave me that Heathkit many moons ago, beautifully ready build 🙂
So, if I need something, he lends me the necessary instrument.
Hugo
Thanks for the kind words. Hope you are fine too.
I have a friend who has all the possible measurement gear you can think of. From AF to GHz's.
He gave me that Heathkit many moons ago, beautifully ready build 🙂
So, if I need something, he lends me the necessary instrument.
Hugo
Hey Hugo!
Perfect! I'm so glad you have good access to test gear. That one looks great. If he built it, it's going to be great! A really wonderful gift!
Still, an IT-18 is cheap and a great investment!
I'm much better these days, thanks.
-Chris
Perfect! I'm so glad you have good access to test gear. That one looks great. If he built it, it's going to be great! A really wonderful gift!
Still, an IT-18 is cheap and a great investment!
I'm much better these days, thanks.
-Chris
Got this little tuner (Realistic TM-70) at a radio show over the weekend,,, FM/MPX section is remarkably similar to the Sansui,,, even uses similar transistors, and works very well,,, it has a stereo light and meter that seems to work like the Sui also,,, Am doesn't work in this, and I think its a PS or switch problem... 'Thought I'd add teh info here, as it may come in handy !!! http://akdatabase.org/AKview/albums/userpics/10007/Realistic TM-70 Owner-Service Manual.pdf
Yes, switches can be a problem. Always check the most simple stuff first!
The power supply generally supplies FM and AM, so the main regulator is fine. They do switch B+ either electronically (I haven't looked) or with a switch (more common). Of course, check the local oscillator too.
The power supply generally supplies FM and AM, so the main regulator is fine. They do switch B+ either electronically (I haven't looked) or with a switch (more common). Of course, check the local oscillator too.