@Skip Pack
Your welcome bud:
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/806-SX1100-B
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/538-22-28-4023
Best,
Anand.
Your welcome bud:
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/806-SX1100-B
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/538-22-28-4023
Best,
Anand.
Thanks again, Anand. Somehow at my age descriptions like 'BREAKAWAY HDR VERT 2' don't spring to mind so quickly. 🙂
Skip
Skip
Here are some on amazon (link) which might be a cheaper option with quicker shipping. BUT do a few additional amazon searches, using the keywords found in amazon's product name. Jumper Cap / Jumper Bridge / Short Circuit Cap / etc. You might find smaller quantities, better colors, taller plugsters with knurled flagtops for better grip, cheaper possibilities, advantageous shipping times, and so on.
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Hi Skip,
PM your address and I'll send you some. I had to buy a bunch of them when putting the mini together.
Barry
Will this work? It does not match the bill of materials.
Twin K370 was provided in the diyaudio kit, what is up with that? JFET 2SK370?
Substitutes for the twin LSK170 in original BOM?
Hmm??
Twin K370 was provided in the diyaudio kit, what is up with that? JFET 2SK370?
Substitutes for the twin LSK170 in original BOM?
Hmm??
🙂Okey, its OK. Found the info about it:
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/diy-aca-mini.379037/post-7079920
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/diy-aca-mini.379037/post-7079920
Hi,
In the kit I received from diyaudiostore, I found 2 resistor of 200k and 2 resistor of 220k, instead of 4 resistor of 220k for R2 and R3, as I see in the BOM.
Is it correct or not? If yes, what of them is R2 or R3?
thx!
In the kit I received from diyaudiostore, I found 2 resistor of 200k and 2 resistor of 220k, instead of 4 resistor of 220k for R2 and R3, as I see in the BOM.
Is it correct or not? If yes, what of them is R2 or R3?
thx!
@audiosteve
thanks
But I can't find anything about that in this thread.
i'm doubtful. Before starting to solder .... it's very appreciate if someone else could help me
^.
Welcome!
If you're talking about soldering the wire into place, you would be locked into one choice. Until you choose which you prefer and/or if you'd like to swap the 'character' of the amp back and forth, I'd recommend a jumper. See the article and some previous comments re: what the jumper engages / disengages and the varied preferences of other forum members. Some people like it w/o the jumper installed... some like it with.
Search for "200k" in this thread. See what turns up. If you can't find it, shout again.
Check out post #1355 in this thread. https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/diy-aca-mini.379037/post-7156140 and
post #1367 https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/diy-aca-mini.379037/post-7157486
Fear not. it's just a little adjustment to get the last small fraction of a watt to the output
after the previous adjustment that slowed down the turn-on charge.
after the previous adjustment that slowed down the turn-on charge.
@ audiosteve
@ itsallinmyhead
@ Nelson
thanks a lot.
sorry but this is my second diy SS job … 😅
@ itsallinmyhead
@ Nelson
thanks a lot.
sorry but this is my second diy SS job … 😅
All customers who purchased a kit which needed a new switch have been sent replacements, and the ACA Mini completion kits in the store now include the correct power switch and are available for immediate purchase.
A question was forwarded to me by a store customer asking whether the Mosfets
are the Harris parts. Since this is a good question I will share my response:
The ACA mini kit has Mosfets tested for Vgs and Jfets tested for Idss to make
sure that they mate for the proper bias range. This naturally results in matching
of the Jfets to a fraction of a milliamp and Mosfets to about 0.1V, however matching
in itself is not essential to this design, as we expect the lower transconductance of
the P channel parts to give us the desired 2nd harmonic characteristic, and we use
the design's jumper to give the builder the opportunity to play with that.
The IRF520 and 9520's used here are Harris. Generally Harris is the choice for P
channel parts as the original IR P parts had an issue with the transconductance altering
in the midrange. I might add that they still worked - it's partly an esthetic choice.
Brands of IRF9520 made by other sources do not have this issue to my knowledge,
and not all production from International Rectifier (now owned by Vishay) P channel
parts had this issue, but when Harris is available it is a safe choice.
There is no guarantee that in the future only Harris parts will be used in the kits,
although I have about 5000 of each polarity. The only essential guarantee would
be that the P channel parts not have this mid-band shift, and that the Jfets and
Mosfets are selected to mate well.
are the Harris parts. Since this is a good question I will share my response:
The ACA mini kit has Mosfets tested for Vgs and Jfets tested for Idss to make
sure that they mate for the proper bias range. This naturally results in matching
of the Jfets to a fraction of a milliamp and Mosfets to about 0.1V, however matching
in itself is not essential to this design, as we expect the lower transconductance of
the P channel parts to give us the desired 2nd harmonic characteristic, and we use
the design's jumper to give the builder the opportunity to play with that.
The IRF520 and 9520's used here are Harris. Generally Harris is the choice for P
channel parts as the original IR P parts had an issue with the transconductance altering
in the midrange. I might add that they still worked - it's partly an esthetic choice.
Brands of IRF9520 made by other sources do not have this issue to my knowledge,
and not all production from International Rectifier (now owned by Vishay) P channel
parts had this issue, but when Harris is available it is a safe choice.
There is no guarantee that in the future only Harris parts will be used in the kits,
although I have about 5000 of each polarity. The only essential guarantee would
be that the P channel parts not have this mid-band shift, and that the Jfets and
Mosfets are selected to mate well.
I built my second ACA Mini using premium parts, a much bigger heat sink, and a custom PCB with multi-turn bias pots.
Each channel has an r-core transformer and a DiyAudio Super Regulator.
After 200 hours of break-in time, the ACA Mini sounds very musically pleasant.
But, when I replace it with a Moskido amp or my Schiit Ragnarok 2, the sound has more detail and attack as if these amps have tighter control of the speakers.
By the way, I am using theses amps only above 200hz in my bi-amped system so bass is not the issue. I have Joseph Audio RM30si speakers.
Does the damping factor of 10 explain what I am hearing? Any other thoughts or suggestions?
Each channel has an r-core transformer and a DiyAudio Super Regulator.
After 200 hours of break-in time, the ACA Mini sounds very musically pleasant.
But, when I replace it with a Moskido amp or my Schiit Ragnarok 2, the sound has more detail and attack as if these amps have tighter control of the speakers.
By the way, I am using theses amps only above 200hz in my bi-amped system so bass is not the issue. I have Joseph Audio RM30si speakers.
Does the damping factor of 10 explain what I am hearing? Any other thoughts or suggestions?