Try the Tor browser, it deletes all cookies, even pass words, and gives a fake European location for me, which puzzled Google greatly, as I was in India about 15 minutes earlier.
It is basically a skin on Firefox, same software engine, tuned for high privacy.
Free to users.
There may be other such software as well, see on CNet and their competitors.
Ads have reduced after that, come to think of it...
It is basically a skin on Firefox, same software engine, tuned for high privacy.
Free to users.
There may be other such software as well, see on CNet and their competitors.
Ads have reduced after that, come to think of it...
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Getting all my fiberglass/epoxy ducks in a row. Wine with dinner precludes using the table saw tonight, as I still need to be able to count to ten at the end of the day.
Ordered some rack rails from Amazon, needed two pairs of 8 RU rails for both mixers. Reviews of the rails states that they are cut from longer stock and the edges are very sharp.. Pfft... like that warning would prevent me from exuding human circulatory fluid!! ( I bet NOBODY here understands that reference, even if I hint at neutron star). Game is on..!!
A very, very good friend has an AC unit in the attic that leaked water into the drip pan, which of course was almost totally rusted through to leak onto the ceiling of her second floor... Meaning, there will be Zinsser, tape, spackle, and paint in my near future..
In thinking through the making of lightweight speaker cabs using fiberglass and epoxy and not knowing if the west system is still good, as well as using a bending brake to make a bottom of evaporator pan to collect condensate, it suddenly dawned on me... Make a fiberglass condensate pan out of fiberglass (edit: I really said fiberglass twice??) using in house materials!! Duh.. AND!!! mold the drain pipe flush to the (tilted) bottom surface so that it doesn't store half an inch of water before it actually drains. It will give me (needed) experience in making fiberglass stuff...(I mean, really, it's better to learn on house stuff instead of audio stuff, right? We all have our priorities).
Who comes up with these stupid AC drip pan designs anyway!! Rust city.
About that directed ads stuff... I must admit, amazon really knows their software.. I've been thinking about getting a granite surface plate (grade B) with a height measurement, let's see if their software picks up on that and sends directed ads!! The challenge..see what they send me..
John
Ordered some rack rails from Amazon, needed two pairs of 8 RU rails for both mixers. Reviews of the rails states that they are cut from longer stock and the edges are very sharp.. Pfft... like that warning would prevent me from exuding human circulatory fluid!! ( I bet NOBODY here understands that reference, even if I hint at neutron star). Game is on..!!
A very, very good friend has an AC unit in the attic that leaked water into the drip pan, which of course was almost totally rusted through to leak onto the ceiling of her second floor... Meaning, there will be Zinsser, tape, spackle, and paint in my near future..
In thinking through the making of lightweight speaker cabs using fiberglass and epoxy and not knowing if the west system is still good, as well as using a bending brake to make a bottom of evaporator pan to collect condensate, it suddenly dawned on me... Make a fiberglass condensate pan out of fiberglass (edit: I really said fiberglass twice??) using in house materials!! Duh.. AND!!! mold the drain pipe flush to the (tilted) bottom surface so that it doesn't store half an inch of water before it actually drains. It will give me (needed) experience in making fiberglass stuff...(I mean, really, it's better to learn on house stuff instead of audio stuff, right? We all have our priorities).
Who comes up with these stupid AC drip pan designs anyway!! Rust city.
About that directed ads stuff... I must admit, amazon really knows their software.. I've been thinking about getting a granite surface plate (grade B) with a height measurement, let's see if their software picks up on that and sends directed ads!! The challenge..see what they send me..
John
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See if you can make a pattern for the pan out of a ready item...
Coat the pattern with release agent, then polyester or whatever, then the glass mat, another layer of coating material, let cure, and release.
A serving tray might work.
Here the thermo forming people used wooden patterns, but for a one off, too much work.
Or use the rusted drip pan as a pattern....
Or simply clean off the rust and coat it with fiberglass as above.
Then you have the correct size, and corrosion proof.
Beware, that stuff gives off fumes.
Coat the pattern with release agent, then polyester or whatever, then the glass mat, another layer of coating material, let cure, and release.
A serving tray might work.
Here the thermo forming people used wooden patterns, but for a one off, too much work.
Or use the rusted drip pan as a pattern....
Or simply clean off the rust and coat it with fiberglass as above.
Then you have the correct size, and corrosion proof.
Beware, that stuff gives off fumes.
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Amazon is full of plastic pans.
https://www.amazon.com/DiversiTech-6-2739L-Secondary-Condensate-Dimension/dp/B00SYQ3HCA --etc
Amazon does not know the difference washer-pan or AC-pan.
"HVAC drip pan" brings up the tin dishes for under stove burners.....
PRR,
Thank you. I've been using the wrong word to describe what I need. the AC evaporator coils are in a steel box of sorts, air goes horizontally through the coils. The bottom of that box is a formed part, maybe 3 by 24 inches with sides about 1.5 inches tall.
The pan you linked to is exactly what she had a plumber replace, as it was full of holes. The part I need is unfortunately custom, as the unit is between 25 and 30 years old.
NareshBrd, the west system stuff I use isn't actually not that bad fume wise, but I will take care.
I could put on a KF 94 mask like I see many others do, but I already know the mask is useless for molecular filtering. I'll be doing it outside.
John
So I posted this wednesday. Today I started getting directed ads for surface plates... 48 hours.
John
Purchased some 9 oz glasscloth, 40 inches by 15 yards. Due in Sunday.
Don't know how thick this stuff is, I did use some 2.5 oz cloth years ago for wooden clock gear blanks (IIRC), so it will be interesting. I recall that when I was using the bandsaw on the reinforced blanks, it smelled like bacon. Granted, the blade was dull.. Nice, but really weird.
John
Don't know how thick this stuff is, I did use some 2.5 oz cloth years ago for wooden clock gear blanks (IIRC), so it will be interesting. I recall that when I was using the bandsaw on the reinforced blanks, it smelled like bacon. Granted, the blade was dull.. Nice, but really weird.
John
After fitting the unit back, try to tilt it towards a drain if possible, the window air conditioner recommendation used to be 1/2" slope for the window side, and 1" front to back, favoring the drain in the bottom plate, so the condensate would drip off to the outside world.
If the pipes have not gone stiff, it is possible.
Big issue if the gas leaks, some types of gas are not sold anymore, and the new types do not work well on older machines.
If the pipes have not gone stiff, it is possible.
Big issue if the gas leaks, some types of gas are not sold anymore, and the new types do not work well on older machines.
I will slope the bottom so that water does not collect. Since I can design anything I wish, it is a non issue.
I do not see a "gas" leak, as I am only dealing with the external housing.
John
I got the impression that you were dealing with a similar item, the outdoor unit of a split air conditioner.
If you tilt the unit, and the pipes have gone stiff, a refrigerant gas leak is quite possible.
Hence the advice.
However, a new housing is well within your vast capabilities...
The image is off the net, no ties to seller or maker.
It's actually part of a central air system. Compressors (3 zones) are outside on the ground. The evaporator coil for the top floors in the attic, part of the HVAC ductwork.
Sadly, the design of the unit put the drain pipe connection about a half inch above the bottom of the box, so there is by design, at least a half inch of standing water at the bottom. Not the best for a steel enclosure. So lots of pinholes now so the water was leaking into the drip pan beneath it. Eventually, the metal drip pan (again, with pipe fitting above the bottom) has turned into swiss cheese, and started dripping condensate onto the ceiling of the top floor. Now that AC time is past, I can remove the bottom cap and make a new one with fiberglass.
For my speakers made with neutronium...
I've been thinking about a speaker cab, specifically cross bracing. I had thought perhaps angle aluminum, but got to thinking about carbon fiber roving. Searching on amazon, I got lots of hits on carbon fiber tubing... So, I'm thinking now about 1/4 ply stiffeners on the wide panels, with a slot in carbon tubing connection for cross bracing. Get the panel resonances high enough in frequency that damping material can prevent excitation.
John
Angle aluminum, you have to screw another angle to the ends and draw tight against that. Possible slippage of the end angle, and imprecision drilling the hole with my setup.
I've been thinking about steel tubing for cross bracing. https://www.mcmaster.com/9220K361
.5" OD, .049" wall thickness. $12 for 3', $19 for 6'. For connectors I've been thinking of 1/4-28 (or 6mm) pan head screws with a cone under the head, a rubber wedge washer, a .4" round anvil to smash the washer, and a nut on outside to tighten up. source of the cone possible weatherhead self-align fitting ferrules. https://www.amazon.com/Eaton-Weatherhead-SelfAlign-Fitting-Sleeve/dp/B00V7TH8SU No source of anvil yet.
Else round dowels, with sheet metal screws under the ends, which are not as strong, & heavier.
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Carbon doesn't lose it's strength like aluminum does, especially once you get over 400-500 degrees C.
I would prefer my speaker cabinet be able to survive re-entry.
I've priced titanium, it's way too expensive for my tastes. Played with it a few years ago, 1/8th and 1/4 inch rod, was surprised that it was far more flexible than hardened steel at the same dimension. Also funny that the pieces came with certs, in case I used it for flight hardware.
John
I would prefer my speaker cabinet be able to survive re-entry.
I've priced titanium, it's way too expensive for my tastes. Played with it a few years ago, 1/8th and 1/4 inch rod, was surprised that it was far more flexible than hardened steel at the same dimension. Also funny that the pieces came with certs, in case I used it for flight hardware.
John
Use large self tapping screws in pipes?
The screw will tighten, and self tapping / chip board profile screws should work at 10 mm / 0.375"
Enough, find aluminum or CPVC tubes, should work on bracing, and quite easy to use.
Aeshetically, everybody has their choice.
The screw will tighten, and self tapping / chip board profile screws should work at 10 mm / 0.375"
Enough, find aluminum or CPVC tubes, should work on bracing, and quite easy to use.
Aeshetically, everybody has their choice.
The weak link in re-entry would be the rubber surround drivers with paper cones.
Jello would not be good for cross braces. Even when frozen.
When you tap even a large piece of Jello, it wiggles nicely.
When you tap an aluminum rod on one end, you can tell it is wiggling by the strong resonance.
As you can use a slightly shorter brace, I would consider a 1/4” steel tube tapped for a bolt. The better choice would be a piece of lignum vitae screwed and glued into place.
https://www.amazon.com/Woodcraft-Woodshop-Lignum-Vitae-12/dp/B00H2AF23G
As you no longer have a government grant for this project, then hickory or white oak will have to do.
When you tap even a large piece of Jello, it wiggles nicely.
When you tap an aluminum rod on one end, you can tell it is wiggling by the strong resonance.
As you can use a slightly shorter brace, I would consider a 1/4” steel tube tapped for a bolt. The better choice would be a piece of lignum vitae screwed and glued into place.
https://www.amazon.com/Woodcraft-Woodshop-Lignum-Vitae-12/dp/B00H2AF23G
As you no longer have a government grant for this project, then hickory or white oak will have to do.
I do have lignum vitae. However, given its oily nature, I suspect it will not hold up well when glued or epoxied. The braces have to support both tension and compression. I could cut locking features into the ends the epoxy and cloth can embed into.
As long as the resonance of the support is above any excitation frequency encountered, it won't be an issue.
John
I sadly had to give up my mobile disco due to getting older a few years back.
Dragging 2 off 2 by 12 speaker cabinets upstairs was getting very hard work.
With each gig its four lifts.
House to car, car into gig, gig into car and car into house.
Dragging 2 off 2 by 12 speaker cabinets upstairs was getting very hard work.
With each gig its four lifts.
House to car, car into gig, gig into car and car into house.