50 mph down Mount Seymour in Vancouver until I started questioning the quality of my wheel builds. A bucket list action with no temptation to repeat.
I never reply to any SPAM emails - EVEN if there's a link to "unsubscribe" to their services.
WHY?.... because if you do the unsubscribe thing, then they KNOW you're an active email, a real person, and you get more junkmail.
Impolite eh?
That's mild.
I've gotten wilder calls than that.
I've been called filthy language, name calling, threats.
And I give it right back to them.
I tell them to get a REAL job, like I did.
But Eddie......
You must be suffering from those endless "Side Effects" that they have to disclaim due to their drug pushing.
" may cause thoughts of suicide" - see your doctor."
Getting back to REPAIRS.....
I've currently inspecting and rectifying a minor but uneeded leak from the bathroom sewer line in the dining room wall.
The cast iron pipe (82 years old) cracked and stained the wall.
Not a job I like doing.
I've currently inspecting and rectifying a minor but uneeded leak from the bathroom sewer line in the dining room wall.
The cast iron pipe (82 years old) cracked and stained the wall.
Not a job I like doing.
PVC actually has a shorter lifespan than cast iron drain pipes.
And I'm hardly in the mood to replace that pipe, buried in my bathroom floor, which would require a complete bathroom tear-out of perfectly good sink, tub, toilet, not to mention perfectly good mosaic tile flooring, all for a lousy 5 inch crack.
Professional plumbers repair that issue with J-B Weld and a wrap - done deal.
A bit of laziness crept in with a design for a model railway DCC block detect.
I used a MOC3011 for an output.
I forgot its a triac output and latches on.
This means without AC power to it it stays on until power is turned off.
So swapped it for a optocoupler with darlington output and that works fine with DC.
Serves me right for not checking first.
I used a MOC3011 for an output.
I forgot its a triac output and latches on.
This means without AC power to it it stays on until power is turned off.
So swapped it for a optocoupler with darlington output and that works fine with DC.
Serves me right for not checking first.
I have a 6P36S amp that I like quite a lot.
Lately while listening for a while, the right channel would drop in volume so I've pulled it out and am running it upside down on the bench.
It's been playing for over an hour and nothing is wrong with it but you know as soon as I button it up and put it back on the shelf, it'll act up again...
Lately while listening for a while, the right channel would drop in volume so I've pulled it out and am running it upside down on the bench.
It's been playing for over an hour and nothing is wrong with it but you know as soon as I button it up and put it back on the shelf, it'll act up again...
Well it's back on the shelf playing perfectly fine.
I did find a bad speaker lead and fixed that.
I also found out that the left channel of this amp will oscillate at 806kHz with no load. A 10V sine on the secondary of the OPT! Next time someone questions the HF response of the dual PT as OPT setup, I'll tell them about that LOL
I strapped a 100R 5W on each output for the "just in case" of it and that fixed that.
I did find a bad speaker lead and fixed that.
I also found out that the left channel of this amp will oscillate at 806kHz with no load. A 10V sine on the secondary of the OPT! Next time someone questions the HF response of the dual PT as OPT setup, I'll tell them about that LOL
I strapped a 100R 5W on each output for the "just in case" of it and that fixed that.
I designed a model railway reversing junction phase controller.
If a loco goes around a loop back onto same track the rails short out.
So breaks are put in the tracks at each end and a controller detects a short and flips the phase so the short goes.
So I came up with a simple comparator that compares a pot level with the track DC level.
If drop in voltage occurr's then phase is flipped.
Sold loads but sometimes a customer would complain it just kept tripping.
It seems some DCC controllers have the signal drop out momentarily which is seen as a short.
So came up with a new design which instead of voltage check does a current check so doesn't care if voltage drops out.
I check to see what phase power rail is and look at voltage across a resistor with A2D.
It simply didn't work with relay clicking all the time.
When I broke the software down I noticed A2D read was taking 60uS.
The DCC signal can change at 55uS so reading phase check finished reading A2D runs out of time and bad a2d read is performed.
Managed to adjust a2d read speed down to 10uS and that fixed it.
If a loco goes around a loop back onto same track the rails short out.
So breaks are put in the tracks at each end and a controller detects a short and flips the phase so the short goes.
So I came up with a simple comparator that compares a pot level with the track DC level.
If drop in voltage occurr's then phase is flipped.
Sold loads but sometimes a customer would complain it just kept tripping.
It seems some DCC controllers have the signal drop out momentarily which is seen as a short.
So came up with a new design which instead of voltage check does a current check so doesn't care if voltage drops out.
I check to see what phase power rail is and look at voltage across a resistor with A2D.
It simply didn't work with relay clicking all the time.
When I broke the software down I noticed A2D read was taking 60uS.
The DCC signal can change at 55uS so reading phase check finished reading A2D runs out of time and bad a2d read is performed.
Managed to adjust a2d read speed down to 10uS and that fixed it.
I had a cold caller want to hire me a iphone for £40 a month.
He asked what my current plan was.
I said pay as you go for £10 a year.
He became very abusive and called me a liar !
How to win customers !
Here I pay Rs. 666 for 84 days, 1.5 GB and 100 SMS daily, unlimited calls.
That is about US$ 8.25.
That is about US$ 8.25.
I had à cassette deck gone South.
I was enable to repair it.....
Then I found one in a thrift shop. A TEAC at 5 bucks in perfect condition.
Repair done.
I was told to junk all my cassette stuff, outdated....Well, I have hundreds of those, most with a terrible sound quality..... But I like it that way.
I was enable to repair it.....
Then I found one in a thrift shop. A TEAC at 5 bucks in perfect condition.
Repair done.
I was told to junk all my cassette stuff, outdated....Well, I have hundreds of those, most with a terrible sound quality..... But I like it that way.
All the salesmen want is to know if you have any money, and if they can make you part with it.
It's like the window salesman that wanted to sell me new windows, even though my present windows are (in his words) "immaculate." He looks at the houses and sees that my house is getting all spruced up and fixed up, and wants some of the action. Ditto the screen doors, which look NEW. They'll "only" last another 15 years, so better replace them now.
There's no honor, no concern for a satisfied customer or not. It's like the guy at the computer store that showed me the "best speaker ever made." Yeah right buddy. You just told me that either a) you think I'm a dumb cluck, or b) you're a dumb cluck. Either look is bad on you.
Capitolism, its consumerism, has gotten so annoying.
An overload of aggressive and rude selling tactics - enough to make a person nuts.
Laptop PS. My young girls are pretty tough on my laptop playing online games, and sure enough today it turned out both the connector and the brick were broken. As luck would have it, the correct 5.5mmx2.5mm barrel connector arrived in the mail today, was not a relabeled 5.5x2.1 as has happened before, and a parts box brick saved the day. I await the next "daddy, daddy, daddy" call.
I live on a corner lot where one street connects two neighborhoods. Someone dumped off a little GE microwave; too embarrassed to take it to Goodwill as the rotating platter wasnt working. Otherwise it heats liquids just fine. GE engineers actually designed a little break-off panel at the bottom, so one wouldnt have to disassemble the entire thing to replace that motor. I removed that, the motor, took it apart and underneath the gears was a ferrite rotor, where a small plastic boss within it holding the tiny primary gear had come loose.
Cleaning the rotor and little plastic bit real good in detergent, letting it dry - a small amount of superglue was all it took to get half A and B back together again. Carousel running again!
I cleaned it up nicely and we're using it in our master bathroom. During the winter, hot water takes so long to arrive, you're emptying a gallon or two down the drain just to get a cup of warm. Otherwise, it's teeth cracking cold.
Cleaning the rotor and little plastic bit real good in detergent, letting it dry - a small amount of superglue was all it took to get half A and B back together again. Carousel running again!
I cleaned it up nicely and we're using it in our master bathroom. During the winter, hot water takes so long to arrive, you're emptying a gallon or two down the drain just to get a cup of warm. Otherwise, it's teeth cracking cold.
jjasniew, time to wrap the hot water pipes with the foam insulating tubes.
I did my radiator feeds too, years ago - made a substantial difference in heating efficiency.
I did my radiator feeds too, years ago - made a substantial difference in heating efficiency.