Hopefully this is not a stupid question:
Any opinions on using the Misco BWX-6502 as the woofer with the 10f?
https://audioxpress.com/article/test-bench-the-bwx-6502-midbass-from-misco-s-bold-north-audio-line
SImulations in Unibox suggest an F3 similar to the RS225 in 10-12 liter sealed box.
This would be for a DSP based version, as the response curve and sensitivity issues would need to be dealt with.
Any opinions on using the Misco BWX-6502 as the woofer with the 10f?
https://audioxpress.com/article/test-bench-the-bwx-6502-midbass-from-misco-s-bold-north-audio-line
SImulations in Unibox suggest an F3 similar to the RS225 in 10-12 liter sealed box.
This would be for a DSP based version, as the response curve and sensitivity issues would need to be dealt with.
This looks like a nice driver - motor design licensed from Dan Wiggins. I have some of his woofers and they are excellent. Lots of good R&D and Klippel measurements on them and I dare say, performance similar to a Purifi for a lot of use cases and a whole lot less money. Just no fan fare and big press releases them.
If you are going to DSP it, sure, it will make a fine FAST with a 10F. Just can’t use the passive crossover I have already developed.
If you are going to DSP it, sure, it will make a fine FAST with a 10F. Just can’t use the passive crossover I have already developed.
Totally understood. Thanks for your response!
I wonder if the increasing THD above 1khz on the BWX-6502 would hinder trying 1st order filters.
If my interpretation of the AudioExpress test is correct, the MISCO is not much worse than the RS225. But should I stick to steeper slopes, like maybe, the Harsch-style filters?
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Question for those who are using or have used the Vifa TC9FD18-08.
Along the sides, the flange reduces down to less than 3mm, which means there is very little tolerance when cutting the hole.
Therefore you also need to be very careful when sealing around the flange.
On the face of the flange there appears to be a gasket, but it is stuck to the flange.
Can this be peeled off without damaging it, so that it can be placed on the back of the flange?
Along the sides, the flange reduces down to less than 3mm, which means there is very little tolerance when cutting the hole.
Therefore you also need to be very careful when sealing around the flange.
On the face of the flange there appears to be a gasket, but it is stuck to the flange.
Can this be peeled off without damaging it, so that it can be placed on the back of the flange?
I am hoping that Vifa only tacked it onto the face of the flange for safekeeping; and it could be easily peeled off.
But I didn't want to pushed my luck.
I might try a little bit of solvent dabbed in behind the gasket, to see if it can help release the gasket to minimise damage.
It peels off with a bit of effort. There will be some glue residue left but you can rub it off with your finger and some more effort, a little solvent and a cotton swab works too. I also used tweezers to pick off stubborn balled up bits. It probably won't come off in one piece for reuse. It is intended to be permanent.
Hi there. Nice project! I am considering building a pair of these to sit next to my TV. I listen to a lot of live metal / hard rock music from blu rays.
I am considering using the 10F or the B80 but i don't really know how to select one.
I was also wondering if anyone has used the Pluvia 7.2 HD or the 7 PHD? I hear good things about the Pluvia drivers. I understand the 7 PHD is more voiced for the Japan market, so maybe not as suitable?
All of these drivers cost about the same here in the UK.
I am also quite a noob so I don't really know how to change the XO in order to use the Pluvia.
Another question I had, is the 1st order XO on page 1 still the one recommended?
I am considering using the 10F or the B80 but i don't really know how to select one.
I was also wondering if anyone has used the Pluvia 7.2 HD or the 7 PHD? I hear good things about the Pluvia drivers. I understand the 7 PHD is more voiced for the Japan market, so maybe not as suitable?
All of these drivers cost about the same here in the UK.
I am also quite a noob so I don't really know how to change the XO in order to use the Pluvia.
Another question I had, is the 1st order XO on page 1 still the one recommended?
You can use almost any 3.5in to 4in fullrange driver that’s 8ohms in the basic crossover. Adjust R1 and R2 to get the right treble to bass balance. As it is voiced for a 10F which is 87dB, something less sensitive will require smaller R1 and larger R2. Nominally 4.7ohm and 4.7ohm. For less sensitive driver (or enhance treble) use R1=3.3ohm and R2=6.8ohm as a start.
Start with this schematic:
Regarding choice of 10F or B80, both are fine. I think the 10F may be slightly lower distortion and allow complex hard rock to come through.
Although Zman01 uses the B80 and I know he listens to a lot of metal so he may have more experience.
Start with this schematic:
Regarding choice of 10F or B80, both are fine. I think the 10F may be slightly lower distortion and allow complex hard rock to come through.
Although Zman01 uses the B80 and I know he listens to a lot of metal so he may have more experience.
Most solvents will make a mess. Isopropyl makes things slippery & won't attack most materials. Try that.
Use a blade, keep it flat to avoid nicking the plastic, be patient. It'll come off.
Thank you for the guidance! If I was to use the Pluvia I would also need to adjust the RC filter as well right? Is the purpose of that filter something to do with playing with impedance?
I did my build with the B80, but would be in agreement with X on this one; the lower distortion of the 10F will probably better for complex music like metal/hard rock.
.nice! thanks for the input 🤘 I think i know what i am doing then! what kinda stuff do you listen to btw?I did my build with the B80, but would be in agreement with X on this one; the lower distortion of the 10F will probably better for complex music like metal/hard rock.
Oh sorry I wasn't clear, I was asking him which bands he listens to
Yeah I will probably use the 10F too. With regards to the dagger, it seems that a sports cone is a convenient way to go. Are there any further details about it? I am concerned the ones I can find might not be thick / substantial enough. Maybe stacking multiple of them with glue in-between is the way to go?
Mostly hard rock/heavy metal/thrash bands from 1970-90s, guitar instrumentals. Here's a couple o examples of some newer stuff (still quite a few years old)
:I also listen to a lot of electronic music and 1980-90s pop.
Just to be clear, I currently have a 3 way of my own design playing in my system; but the xrk971 FAST RS225-TL is definitely a good sounding design, and numerous folks have given very positive feedback.
Usual sports cone covered with Noico works. Never thought about doubling them. Put some pliable glue in between the cones and you have CLD (constrained layer damping). Although resonance isn’t a huge problem. Make sure cone is air tight relative to main chamber.Oh sorry I wasn't clear, I was asking him which bands he listens to
Yeah I will probably use the 10F too. With regards to the dagger, it seems that a sports cone is a convenient way to go. Are there any further details about it? I am concerned the ones I can find might not be thick / substantial enough. Maybe stacking multiple of them with glue in-between is the way to go?
Hi Zman01, the ladies in the house are ok with you playing these bands loud?Mostly hard rock/heavy metal/thrash bands from 1970-90s, guitar instrumentals. Here's a couple o examples of some newer stuff (still quite a few years old)
I also listen to a lot of electronic music and 1980-90s pop.
Just to be clear, I currently have a 3 way of my own design playing in my system; but the xrk971 FAST RS225-TL is definitely a good sounding design, and numerous folks have given very positive feedback.