thank you! sounds like i have a plan!
nice! I used to listen to similar stuff. But I have been listening more and more japanese metal bands over the last decade. Some incredible bands, doing incredible things to the genre! Unlucky morpheus, nemophila, band-maid, passcode, gacharic spin being some of current favourites.
X,
I haven't been ejected from the house mainly due to two reasons
:
1. I don't play too loud. I am usually under 80 dB at my listening position, and rarely crank it up any further; want to hold on to my hearing as long as possible.
2. I listen to music with the doors closed so that others are spared from my musical enjoyment
It's worked till date.
I haven't been ejected from the house mainly due to two reasons
:1. I don't play too loud. I am usually under 80 dB at my listening position, and rarely crank it up any further; want to hold on to my hearing as long as possible.
2. I listen to music with the doors closed so that others are spared from my musical enjoyment
It's worked till date.
Hey guys! I just made this account a couple days ago because I wanted to ask x some questions about his new XSD design! Anyways, I guess that's off the table for DIY for now, (and possibly forever :/) so I decided to take a look at these bad boys (although if the XSD does become available as a kit they will be mine 😈). I've been scouring over this thread, and have decided to definitely build these. It will be my first foray into DIY, so I am nervous and excited!
I must say though, reading through all these posts as a DIY newbie has been pretty dang intimidating, and I decided as I read on to bookmark key posts I read along the way. Thought I'd share. These are just the posts that I paid special attention to, as someone with very little technical knowledge, and as someone primarily interested in the TL build. I glazed over all of the graphs and such and have probably made many other important omissions. So to anyone else looking into these speakers for the first time, I would say probably to look at these posts to gauge your interest in this build, and then look through the thread more thoroughly thereafter if you want to move forward.
2402: Soldering Luxury Speaker Wire
2403: Sound Dampening & Tuning
2404: FAST TL Crossover & Binding Posts
2409: Mono FAST TL Listening Impressions
2478: XRK impressions on TL + amp pairings (40w Alpha Nirvana Class A)
2563: Q&A with xrk
2567: bad seal detection
2646: zman01 impressions on B80 TL build
2878: dampening advice
2939: general advice plus HT ideas
2941: tapered TL vs MLTL
2974: TL vs sealed
3010: driver clarification
3024: TL accolades by x
3056: construction tips
3064: reiterating dampening tips by x
3076: re reiterating dampening tips by x
3146: 10F/RS-225 history/summary
3151: impressions by moutik2
3159: time alignment details
3173: more impressions by x
3199: impressions by as8912
3200: CAD design
3250: more dampening advice from x
3271: finishing touches by x
I hope this helps fellow newbies out there. Thanks all for all this great info!
I'll post updates as I progress along building these speakers, although it may be awhile because I don't have a workshop currently at my disposal.
I must say though, reading through all these posts as a DIY newbie has been pretty dang intimidating, and I decided as I read on to bookmark key posts I read along the way. Thought I'd share. These are just the posts that I paid special attention to, as someone with very little technical knowledge, and as someone primarily interested in the TL build. I glazed over all of the graphs and such and have probably made many other important omissions. So to anyone else looking into these speakers for the first time, I would say probably to look at these posts to gauge your interest in this build, and then look through the thread more thoroughly thereafter if you want to move forward.
2402: Soldering Luxury Speaker Wire
2403: Sound Dampening & Tuning
2404: FAST TL Crossover & Binding Posts
2409: Mono FAST TL Listening Impressions
2478: XRK impressions on TL + amp pairings (40w Alpha Nirvana Class A)
2563: Q&A with xrk
2567: bad seal detection
2646: zman01 impressions on B80 TL build
2878: dampening advice
2939: general advice plus HT ideas
2941: tapered TL vs MLTL
2974: TL vs sealed
3010: driver clarification
3024: TL accolades by x
3056: construction tips
3064: reiterating dampening tips by x
3076: re reiterating dampening tips by x
3146: 10F/RS-225 history/summary
3151: impressions by moutik2
3159: time alignment details
3173: more impressions by x
3199: impressions by as8912
3200: CAD design
3250: more dampening advice from x
3271: finishing touches by x
I hope this helps fellow newbies out there. Thanks all for all this great info!
I'll post updates as I progress along building these speakers, although it may be awhile because I don't have a workshop currently at my disposal.
Hi Bryguy,
Welcome to DIYA! Why is the XSD off limits? I made a dedicated thread to show you all how to build it. I will see about providing a XO kit.
In any event, the FAST TLs are a superb speaker and one that must be built. It’s also fully supported with complete plans and crossover diagram.
Thanks for compiling all the posts and summarizing their topic.
Good luck with your build!
Welcome to DIYA! Why is the XSD off limits? I made a dedicated thread to show you all how to build it. I will see about providing a XO kit.
In any event, the FAST TLs are a superb speaker and one that must be built. It’s also fully supported with complete plans and crossover diagram.
Thanks for compiling all the posts and summarizing their topic.
Good luck with your build!
Oops, I guess I meant to me. I don't think I want to mess around with DSP in place of a passive crossover, and I definitely can't design one myself! I think probably those interested in making the XSD's themselves will probably be a pretty different crowd than those interested in buying them built, so I think it would be a good idea.. But I probably just think that because I really want an XO kit! Haha. Sorry for going off topic.
Thanks for the warm welcome X! And happy to make some small contribution
, small as it may be next to all of what a lot of you guys have done!
Hi! Could someone explain to me please the function of the Miflex capacitor? Am I replacing another component on the board with it? If so, why is it a different value? What is the difference between a regular capacitor and a bypass capacitor?
Bryguy,
The Miflex capacitor is a "bypass" cap which is in addition to the capacitor in that position.
The bypass capacitor is usually a higher quality capacitor of a small value used in addition to the main capacitor in that position with the expectation that it will add a subtle change (improvement).
A 0.1 uF cap will cost much less vs a 3.3 uF cap; with bypassing the 3.3uF "standard" cap with a higher quality 0.1 uF bypass, one expects some of the positive effects of the higher quality to come through (and making a slight increase in the cost by using the small bypass cap). Some higher priced (and assumed to be higher quality) caps are not available in larger values, and sometimes they can get big and bulky in size as the value increases, and this can introduce other problems too.
Is there any "improvement" of bypassing? This will be contentious, as many do not believe that expensive caps make any difference anyways.
The Miflex capacitor is a "bypass" cap which is in addition to the capacitor in that position.
The bypass capacitor is usually a higher quality capacitor of a small value used in addition to the main capacitor in that position with the expectation that it will add a subtle change (improvement
).A 0.1 uF cap will cost much less vs a 3.3 uF cap; with bypassing the 3.3uF "standard" cap with a higher quality 0.1 uF bypass, one expects some of the positive effects of the higher quality to come through (and making a slight increase in the cost by using the small bypass cap). Some higher priced (and assumed to be higher quality) caps are not available in larger values, and sometimes they can get big and bulky in size as the value increases, and this can introduce other problems too.
Is there any "improvement" of bypassing? This will be contentious, as many do not believe that expensive caps make any difference anyways.
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Oooh okay. Thanks zman, I think I understand. So should I wire it in parallel with the cheaper 3.3uf cap?Bryguy,
The Miflex capacitor is a "bypass" cap which is in addition to the capacitor in that position.
The bypass capacitor is usually a higher quality capacitor of a small value used in addition to the main capacitor in that position with the expectation that it will add a subtle change (improvement
A 0.1 uF cap will cost much less vs a 3.3 uF cap; with bypassing the 3.3uF "standard" cap with a higher quality 0.1 uF bypass, one expects some of the positive effects of the higher quality to come through.
The "improvement" of bypassing will be contentious, as many do not believe that expensive caps make any difference anyways.
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Alright then! I know throwing money at something isn't a surefire means to enhanced quality, but if x seems to like it, I think I'll give it a shot. Thanks again!
Talking about crossover parts, I am building the B80 / RS225-8 version and I was wondering about the 3.5mH/1.1r inductor.
I can find a 3.3mH/1.0r and 0.15mH/0.4r inductor, so I could just put those in series to approximate it.
Is increasing the total series resistance to 1.4 ohms too much? Or should I just use the 3.3mH/1.0ohm only?
Also I know I am not supposed to put the two coils too close to each other, to avoid coupling.
I can find a 3.3mH/1.0r and 0.15mH/0.4r inductor, so I could just put those in series to approximate it.
Is increasing the total series resistance to 1.4 ohms too much? Or should I just use the 3.3mH/1.0ohm only?
Also I know I am not supposed to put the two coils too close to each other, to avoid coupling.
You want to avoid adding DCR to the system as that decreases the bass sensitivity.
A couple of options:
(1) look at iron core - they work well too for this application and cost a lot less and will have lower DCR; (2) look at 4mH and remove windings by measuring with a DATS or other LCR meter to get 3.5mH.
You can always use the 3.3mH alone first and see if it sounds good, it should be ok as 0.2mH is less than 10% off. Since this is a shallow slope 1st order XO, things are more relaxed in terms of tolerances.
Example of 3.5mH 18ga iron core (0.36ohm DCR) that will boost the bass sensitivity maybe 1dB:
https://www.parts-express.com/ERSE-3.5mH-18-AWG-Laminated-Iron-Core-Inductor-266-560
A couple of options:
(1) look at iron core - they work well too for this application and cost a lot less and will have lower DCR; (2) look at 4mH and remove windings by measuring with a DATS or other LCR meter to get 3.5mH.
You can always use the 3.3mH alone first and see if it sounds good, it should be ok as 0.2mH is less than 10% off. Since this is a shallow slope 1st order XO, things are more relaxed in terms of tolerances.
Example of 3.5mH 18ga iron core (0.36ohm DCR) that will boost the bass sensitivity maybe 1dB:
https://www.parts-express.com/ERSE-3.5mH-18-AWG-Laminated-Iron-Core-Inductor-266-560
notporcupine,
If I am not wrong, X used this make of 3.5mH air core inductor for his build:
Jantzen Audio 3.5mH 18 AWG Air Core Inductor Crossover Coil
The Erse 18AWG part has DC resistance of 1.01 Ohms IIRC.
Are you located in the US? Then you can find both at Parts Express.
As long as the inductance is 3.5mH, minor deviations in R should be ok (like the 1R vs 1.1R) - but X would be able to comment on that better.
P.S. X has already commented.
If I am not wrong, X used this make of 3.5mH air core inductor for his build:
Jantzen Audio 3.5mH 18 AWG Air Core Inductor Crossover Coil
The Erse 18AWG part has DC resistance of 1.01 Ohms IIRC.
Are you located in the US? Then you can find both at Parts Express.
As long as the inductance is 3.5mH, minor deviations in R should be ok (like the 1R vs 1.1R) - but X would be able to comment on that better.
P.S. X has already commented.
Thanks both! I am in the UK so no access to that specific jantzen inductor from PE.
I am ordering parts from a Visaton reseller so 3.3mH/1.0r is the biggest air core they have.
I could get a bigger iron core one and unwind it but I don't have confidence/equipment for getting the target value right.
So I think I will stick with 3.3mH. Thanks again!
Hi X,
I just would like to try the ScanSpeak 10F FR' s in the speaker, instead of the Visaton B80's, because of the mentioned lower distortion (not that I'm not satisfied, I just want to try it). As my baffle is fixed, I would use a new little baffle for the 10F, just slightly bigger than the 10F itself and I would mount it over the opening of the B80, and I would fill the gap too. It means, the 10F is about 5mm closer to the listening place. I of course will flatten the edges of the new baffle (and of course I will build a new XO too). Could/would it work properly or will there be a big runtime misalignment?
Many thanks in advance!
Cheers, Istvan
I just would like to try the ScanSpeak 10F FR' s in the speaker, instead of the Visaton B80's, because of the mentioned lower distortion (not that I'm not satisfied, I just want to try it). As my baffle is fixed, I would use a new little baffle for the 10F, just slightly bigger than the 10F itself and I would mount it over the opening of the B80, and I would fill the gap too. It means, the 10F is about 5mm closer to the listening place. I of course will flatten the edges of the new baffle (and of course I will build a new XO too). Could/would it work properly or will there be a big runtime misalignment?
Many thanks in advance!
Cheers, Istvan