Why not to dream? They are existing, Technics EAS-10TH1000 and EAS-10TH800 had specified FR over 100 kHz.
Good evening, friends! I measured a lot of graphs at different distances, along different axes, and in different angles. The column worked only on the left.
I ask you to look at the charts and express your expert opinion.
Third-party noise is present due to a running computer. Although I took a silent Fractal Design case, it still makes a little noise and introduces its own sound vibrations.
What crossover to make for twitter? Maybe from 14 kHz?
I ask you to look at the charts and express your expert opinion.
Third-party noise is present due to a running computer. Although I took a silent Fractal Design case, it still makes a little noise and introduces its own sound vibrations.
What crossover to make for twitter? Maybe from 14 kHz?
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Colleagues, good afternoon! I'm afraid to sound intrusive, but without your help, I cannot cope.
See previous post. Please advise, with what frequency to start tuning the supertwitter?
I remember everything that you told me, and the fact that the choice of a crossover for a super-high speaker is a purely personal matter. 🙂 But I need to start somewhere. 🙂 Here is a choice before me: from 6.4 kHz, as in the passport; from 10 kHz as recommended above; or from 14 kHz, as I see the decline on the graph.
See previous post. Please advise, with what frequency to start tuning the supertwitter?
I remember everything that you told me, and the fact that the choice of a crossover for a super-high speaker is a purely personal matter. 🙂 But I need to start somewhere. 🙂 Here is a choice before me: from 6.4 kHz, as in the passport; from 10 kHz as recommended above; or from 14 kHz, as I see the decline on the graph.
Do the math for what size series cap you’d need for all three (minimal investment)
Subjectively listen to each…..measure each…..compare notes……decide! And if it’s too hot…. pad down.
Keep in mind position of super tweeter makes a difference…..if on top of the cabinet even small adjustments front to back can be quite a difference.
Subjectively listen to each…..measure each…..compare notes……decide! And if it’s too hot…. pad down.
Keep in mind position of super tweeter makes a difference…..if on top of the cabinet even small adjustments front to back can be quite a difference.
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I don't think super tweeters are necessary because standard tweeters reach the upper limit of human hearing.
You should also consider that most recording equipment, at least for music, doesn't capture anything that high either, if anything is there to capture.
So there will be nothing in a recording for a super tweeter to reproduce.
You should also consider that most recording equipment, at least for music, doesn't capture anything that high either, if anything is there to capture.
So there will be nothing in a recording for a super tweeter to reproduce.
Many formats go way above 20khz , the only one brick walled at 22.05 is red book CD I believe.
Whether or not it makes a difference is debatable, I’ve heard the difference in air and presence they can make if implemented carefully.
Whether or not it makes a difference is debatable, I’ve heard the difference in air and presence they can make if implemented carefully.
I implore you guys ... place all super tweeters on the back edge of the cabinet, always facing backwards or up. This is the only way to avoid issues.
Good day and good mood everyone! My mood is magical! I finally finished my stands for the future super twitter! Here they are! I drew 100500 different variants of coasters. My goal was to make an aesthetically pleasing stand and at the same time it should allow the ball to rotate from vertical to horizontal. So that the super tweeter could be rotated up. With this stand, this tweeter can be rotated every 30 degrees.
I originally came up with a scheme for 5 mm brass, but my friends who have a laser machine said that they do not have 5 mm brass and I had to redraw all the details on 3 mm brass, which required significant design refinement, since with 3 mm brass, the number of mating parts has increased and such a large number of parts cannot be connected without play. But I succeeded! Now the balls do not hang out in these stands. I even bought soldering equipment and special silver-copper solder and wanted to weld all the mating parts. 🙂 But at the last moment he changed his mind and revised the design. And it turned out to be the right decision. Now the design of the stands can be easily disassembled and reassembled. The stand is heavy and solid. It took me more than four months to polish everything and fit the parts one to the other. 🙂 And the amount of a new tool that I had to buy approached the cost of $500. It took me 4 taps for the M3 thread. And it took a lot of effort to get the broken taps out of the holes. 🙂 But I still collected and polished everything. It turned out very nice.
There's not much left to do. I don’t have a router, I have now given the balls to the master, who must mill the front edge and close up all unnecessary holes, and then I will need to paint the balls, install a brass front panel and make a crossover.
I originally came up with a scheme for 5 mm brass, but my friends who have a laser machine said that they do not have 5 mm brass and I had to redraw all the details on 3 mm brass, which required significant design refinement, since with 3 mm brass, the number of mating parts has increased and such a large number of parts cannot be connected without play. But I succeeded! Now the balls do not hang out in these stands. I even bought soldering equipment and special silver-copper solder and wanted to weld all the mating parts. 🙂 But at the last moment he changed his mind and revised the design. And it turned out to be the right decision. Now the design of the stands can be easily disassembled and reassembled. The stand is heavy and solid. It took me more than four months to polish everything and fit the parts one to the other. 🙂 And the amount of a new tool that I had to buy approached the cost of $500. It took me 4 taps for the M3 thread. And it took a lot of effort to get the broken taps out of the holes. 🙂 But I still collected and polished everything. It turned out very nice.
There's not much left to do. I don’t have a router, I have now given the balls to the master, who must mill the front edge and close up all unnecessary holes, and then I will need to paint the balls, install a brass front panel and make a crossover.
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Friends, I still need your help! The master who undertook to mill the front surface asked me a lot of money for painting .... he asked for 500 dollars. I canceled the balloon painting service. A few months ago, I would not have worried about this money, but now, due to the problems of my country, it has become a very big money. I want to be out of politics, I am a pacifist and for world peace, and all people are brothers and sisters, but what is happening now is terrible...
Now I have to look for options to paint these balls myself. I have never worked with wood before. How do I color the balls bright red? Like a Ferrari car. 🙂 I watched a lot of videos on YouTube, but I still didn’t understand the sequence of actions, and what materials to use in order to achieve red color and the surface would be like a piano, shiny. Maybe you can give me the right advice?
Now I have to look for options to paint these balls myself. I have never worked with wood before. How do I color the balls bright red? Like a Ferrari car. 🙂 I watched a lot of videos on YouTube, but I still didn’t understand the sequence of actions, and what materials to use in order to achieve red color and the surface would be like a piano, shiny. Maybe you can give me the right advice?
First of all please use spheres or cabinets instead of balls, I get some weird pictures in my head every time you work with your balls😅. You need to use a primer first. Primer sanding primer sanding untill you have a nice finish. Now few layers of red. Finish with laquer. 5-7 layers with sanding in between. Finish off with polishing. The key is sanding and dust free room. You can use primer, paint and laquer from spray
Oh please don't paint these, they look already so good in the natural wood, just use some wood oil or transparent varnish.
:)I totally agree. They look fabulous.
Finishing wood is a difficult job for the learner. Raw wood looks amazing, and I have often made it look worse with my chosen finishes. Now I almost always use this:
Polyvine wax finish varnish satin
Sand - apply two coats. Sand again - reapply. Sand with even finer paper - reapply. stop when you are happy. This sounds like a lot of work, but the wax varnish is very easy to use, and also to sand off if you have applied too much. It is also a water based system. Try brushing it on, and also try applying it with a cloth, or smoothing it with a fine cloth before letting it dry.
Good luck.
Forgive me! I don't know English well and I have to use google translator. Didn't expect "ball" to have any other meaning. 🙂 "Ball" as, for example, "bowling ball". My future super tweeters are very similar to bowling balls, but a little bit smaller. 🙂 Children's bowling balls. 🙂
Thanks for your feedback. But it seems to me that the wood is not quite combined with brass. Now, if these balls ... that is, the spheres were bright red, like a Ferrari car, then it would look expensive and rich. 🙂 Although, I do not risk anything, I will always have time to paint them. Decided! I will first polish them to a shine, and then I will cover them with the wax recommended by you. If I find it in my country...
I would love to do this, but I have been looking for wood paint for two days, but what Google shows me is depressing. This is usually the paint for painting fences. 🙂 I don't want my spheres to look like granny's fence. 🙂
I think the wood looks great. Wax or varnish will make them look even better.
Balls in English common language is яички 😀
Balls in English common language is яички 😀
Polyvine - I didn't find this compound in Russia... Unfortunately... Maybe a special carnauba wax can be used? This wax I can find and have seen in stores. Many people in Russia cover wooden products with linseed oil, but it seems to me that this method is very outdated.