This one can take even more of a beating: Blocked
But Mighty uses Infineon so that’s what I’ll do, plus smarter ppl tell me Infineon specs are more suited for the purpose.
Wrt close mounting, the sink is split into two parts with poor thermal conduction between them.
Though, if sinks show uneven temps across them @ equilibrium, I might solder wires to the fets and put them center sink. And if monitoring with IR thermometer over time, and testing, shows that IQ is on the limit or above, I’ll just crank it down. Or try the Vishays 🙂
Still, point taken. Thank you, and Tungsten too. I guess for a fraidy cat I am going FAB this time
if chicken, use temporary fuses in rails , between channel pcb and cap bank
2A is good value
when setting is done, remove fuses
edit: Andy - I don't care which mnfctrr of IRFP150
120mm as dimension between two mosfets chosen to accommodate fave DiyA 4U/300 case, but works as charm in mine fave case - 4U/400
in equilibrium everything is more or less same temp
front end of sinks slightly colder, because front plate is always pulling some
2A is good value
when setting is done, remove fuses
edit: Andy - I don't care which mnfctrr of IRFP150
120mm as dimension between two mosfets chosen to accommodate fave DiyA 4U/300 case, but works as charm in mine fave case - 4U/400
in equilibrium everything is more or less same temp
front end of sinks slightly colder, because front plate is always pulling some
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Nah, I am happy without fuses between PSU and PCB. I think this will work out just fine. Really looking forward to firing it up. But currently having more time looking forward to it than actually doing anything that makes progress 🙂
Have you guys played with different types of fuses??? Like, glass with nothing inside (hollow), glass with silica filing, ceramic... I made a few myself for fun, I tried different body materials and a combination of filings - even tried the beeswax 🙂 I can tell the difference, quite staggering in fact.
I use a single strand of chest hair suspended in Sex Panther cologne.
It sounds exactly as you think it does - stunning.
It sounds exactly as you think it does - stunning.
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I expected these comments... so it's okay. I can easily tell the difference between different types, but it is certainly fine if you are not going to try or can not tell the difference.
The opportunity for humor was too hard to resist lol. I don't actually have a problem with people who claim to hear debatable things - who am I to know what you hear?
Well, amplifier manufacturers go a long way to avoid any fuses in their amplifiers (apart from the mains fuse), so there's a reason for it. Also, the thin, spring-loaded wire suspended in the air will change its characteristics when exposed to current/when heated... so, it makes sense to use fuses filled with something...
I haven’t played with fuses. But I did play a lot with power cables, AC filtering and also DC blockers, in my Krell days. Differences were quite remarkable, and not always for the better. But once I had power cables worth more than the amp, I sold it all - I mean everything, and started making things myself. In the belief that good PSUs and amp circuits are more important than power cables etc. but I guess it all makes a difference, but currently occupied with PCB stuffing and P2P PSU making, it will be a while before I have to worry about those things. Iow, not there yet.
Ie: I believe you hear these differences.
Ie: I believe you hear these differences.
I know exactly what you mean when you said you sold it all and went back to basics being done right.
Re fuses, I pulled out the fuse that arrived with my May DAC and inserted it into Aleph J... and was simply blown away. So, instead of paying an exuberant amount of money for the same type of fuse, I decided to buy different fuse types and play a bit with them myself, as per#7764...
Re fuses, I pulled out the fuse that arrived with my May DAC and inserted it into Aleph J... and was simply blown away. So, instead of paying an exuberant amount of money for the same type of fuse, I decided to buy different fuse types and play a bit with them myself, as per#7764...
, please!
Re: Fuses -
I now always use the standard, unfilled glass fuse for mains fuses. I tried the creamic fuses ("K" designation), but actually, they kept blowing way more often on switch-on than the glass fuses, even though they had the same current rating.
The ceramic fuses don't work for my approach, where I try to set the fuse value as low as possible - if it blows maybe once a quarter upon switch-on, it's alright for me. With ceramic fuses, I would have to use a significantly higher rated fuse.
Regards, Claas
I now always use the standard, unfilled glass fuse for mains fuses. I tried the creamic fuses ("K" designation), but actually, they kept blowing way more often on switch-on than the glass fuses, even though they had the same current rating.
The ceramic fuses don't work for my approach, where I try to set the fuse value as low as possible - if it blows maybe once a quarter upon switch-on, it's alright for me. With ceramic fuses, I would have to use a significantly higher rated fuse.
Regards, Claas
What about chryogenically treated pollonium fuses with the Popes blessing?
And then there’s nails. Mighty you like ‘em galvanized or untreated, maybe pulled from a WW2 aircraft?
Seriously, not laughing. I was once close to ordering some Furutech fancypants fuses.
And then there’s nails. Mighty you like ‘em galvanized or untreated, maybe pulled from a WW2 aircraft?
Seriously, not laughing. I was once close to ordering some Furutech fancypants fuses.
VIkings are dumbidiots, still thinking about that**
'Talians are artists, 'nuff of them selling that sort of Drek to Vikings and rest of Population
Peppe replied you adequately
btw. 'Talians had Marco Pantani, too ; King of the Mountain
go figure
still remember - was watching both Giro and Tour that year , when he won both
he drove it with Pure Will
**most recent confirmation being - my Polish Guy having Babelfish Aleph XJ , decided to waste some greens od Adiophoolfuses
his own Verdict - he wasted those greens
if in doubt - use nails ..... or skip fuses all-together
invest money on proper insurance
'Talians are artists, 'nuff of them selling that sort of Drek to Vikings and rest of Population
Peppe replied you adequately
btw. 'Talians had Marco Pantani, too ; King of the Mountain
go figure
still remember - was watching both Giro and Tour that year , when he won both
he drove it with Pure Will
**most recent confirmation being - my Polish Guy having Babelfish Aleph XJ , decided to waste some greens od Adiophoolfuses
his own Verdict - he wasted those greens
if in doubt - use nails ..... or skip fuses all-together
invest money on proper insurance
Hi, can I get some help with the PSU for this build? I FINALLY started getting parts out of bags and working on the PSU board. I am following the build guide here (meaning I am using the off-board rectifiers). I ended up with (8) 35V 22,000uF caps and have the 400VA 18V Antek transformer.
For the 8 filter resistors (R1-R8), have the 0.47 ohm 3 watt ones I see for all these builds. No issue (unless there is an issue based on the parts I mention above!)
For the 2 bleed resistors (R9-R10), on the first page of this thread I see the diagram and 6L6 reference 2.2Kohm (2,200), however I ended up with 22kohm (22,000) resistors based on a saved cart I used. To be blunt, should I put these aside and buy 2.2Kohm resistors?
For the 2 LED resistors (R20-R21), using 10Kohm and this LED (I have a red/green set, but same electronic values): TLHR5400 Vishay Semiconductors | Mouser - are these resistors the appropriate value for the board voltage and LEDs I have? I have played around with some calculators but not 100% sure.
Thanks!
For the 8 filter resistors (R1-R8), have the 0.47 ohm 3 watt ones I see for all these builds. No issue (unless there is an issue based on the parts I mention above!)
For the 2 bleed resistors (R9-R10), on the first page of this thread I see the diagram and 6L6 reference 2.2Kohm (2,200), however I ended up with 22kohm (22,000) resistors based on a saved cart I used. To be blunt, should I put these aside and buy 2.2Kohm resistors?
For the 2 LED resistors (R20-R21), using 10Kohm and this LED (I have a red/green set, but same electronic values): TLHR5400 Vishay Semiconductors | Mouser - are these resistors the appropriate value for the board voltage and LEDs I have? I have played around with some calculators but not 100% sure.
Thanks!
Collecting parts for the build… Well, time for noob questions deluxe🙂
What is the green and yellow connected to inside the transformer? To some shielding or to the core? Center tap???
We have got 230V here in Sweden.
Should i connect green/yellow to the safety ground in the Aleph chassie?
What is the green and yellow connected to inside the transformer? To some shielding or to the core? Center tap???
We have got 230V here in Sweden.
Should i connect green/yellow to the safety ground in the Aleph chassie?
Attachments
almost forgot - damn greenhorns ......
Not sure where that came from. Strictly use the cheapest fuses I can find. Krell days are over.
I am just saying ppl should spend money on what they want, and who am I to judge what they hear.
Me, I stay cheap and happily ignorant to the blessings of audiophile fancygadgets.
Damn Mighty Batsch!
if in doubt - use nails ..... or skip fuses all-together
Exactly the reason for my question: galvanized or not?