ROAR15

Anyone knows on how to compute for the expansion at S3-S4 (marked in red)? ROAR cab

I usually use "PAR" in that section in Hornresp. The section length is from the very exit of the pipe section to the center line of the driver(s). It is close enough when compared to actual real life measurements.
 

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In order to lessen the risk of confusion in this thread, and to make it easier for potential ROAR10 builders to find information about it, it might be better to start a thread specific to that design, seeing as this thread is titled ROAR15, just a suggestion to keep things a bit more focused, what do you think?
 
So yesterday i got too bored from the pandemic and set up my soundsystem in a 8m² basement room to test the roar15 against the tham15. since building the roar15 (with the 15tbx100 mounted), i never had the opportunity to test it at full volume.

Fired it up with approx. 1200 Watts till nearly clipping. And boy, does it punch you in the face! After a year without music at club levels, it was really good to feel music again as a bodily sensation.

Lessons learned:

- I could hardly breath at full levels
- It is a notably louder than the tham15, with the size of both in direct comparison, it seemed a bit ridiculous, how much more the roar delivers

- at same levels, it sounds way more present and aggressive than the tham
- if you dont highpass, it puts out substantial volume at deeper frequencies, even at 35hz and below.
- it is very hard to eq inside small rooms
- techno music is the way to go with this sub (this direction: ARKVS - Endorphine [PRRUKBLK027] - YouTube)
- will have to build at least 2 more
 
set up my soundsystem in a 8m² basement room to test the roar15
will have to build at least 2 more
So I take it you felt that one ROAR15 on 8m2 was not enough, damn... back to the drawingboard I guess :)

Kidding aside, thanks for the feedback, they can get quite evil when provoked a bit, extrapolate on that experience if using l 15DS115 with 4kW instead, using two or more a side, in a big space or outdoors, that would be closer to the intended usercase for these designs, but still as long as they are enjoyed it does not matter how, but be careful.
 
So I take it you felt that one ROAR15 on 8m2 was not enough, damn... back to the drawingboard I guess :)

Kidding aside, thanks for the feedback, they can get quite evil when provoked a bit, extrapolate on that experience if using l 15DS115 with 4kW instead, using two or more a side, in a big space or outdoors, that would be closer to the intended usercase for these designs, but still as long as they are enjoyed it does not matter how, but be careful.
:D:D More than sufficient for the intended purpose... today i reported this to a friend, who lives down the block, and thus found out, that he had wondered, who the hell would set up a soundsystem in the middle of the streets saturday evening and terrorize the whole block. he could hear the bass coming from my basement-window through the closed windows of his apartment. thats some 300 meters away. Maybe the small basementroom coupled to the mouth of the roar as a kind of large resonator, further amplified by the giant horn made of the corridor of houses on the block or something idk :yes:


I tought about the 15DS115 as well, but gues it would be more economic to build 2 thams with the 15TBW100, although consuming more cargo volume?
 
In my home i rarely provide my ROAR15's more than ~10W, there is no need for it unless I want to torture myself, sure its fun to give them abit more once in a while when I'm alone, but it becomes borderline unplesant rather quickly, this is not their natural habitat so to speak.

But to relate to your statements concerning their sound character, what i personally like about them is the resolution/definition and ability to both hammer out sharp transients while simultaneously providing low bass without losing focus on neither, almost like having two boxes in one.
 
my first real speaker build, a single ROAR 15 (15mm edition) with 15TBX100 to complement a pair of no-longer-active-speaker bi-amped Proel Flash12As.

We tried the combination outside with somewhat reasonable sound volumes as the neighbors are very close and the first results are very promising. No measurements done yet and equalizing so far done with ears only :)
 
first proper testing at an empty lot in industrial area: the current 2.1 configuration works really well for EDM-style music, still tuning by ear. I already have Umik-1 and REW, I just need to put them into proper use. At the moment getting any reasonable sound for metal at higher volumes requires some further tuning.

First proper use: popup party at a somewhat remote part of the city, attracted apparently roughly 100 people, great feedback on the sound system, was shut down by the police due to numerous noise complaints in the early hours. Closest houses/apartment buildings at ~500m.

Power from a portable 2KW generator, ROAR 15 powered by a t.amp E-800 in bridge mode, DCX 2496 as cross-over. A lot of the stuff has been bought used, just seeing what kind of setup we can get for reasonable money for the DJ in the family.
I have another 15TBX100 waiting but I cannot fit two ROAR 15s in my car so I'm not sure when the other one will be built.

So far a very successful project :)
 
Thanks for the feedback, I think the TBX100 line from B&C is great, I regard it as the big brother of the PS line (also very good), they may seem moderate compared to present day BL/Xmax monsters but they still have their place and I still regard them as my personal "go to" suggestion for almost any application, almost.

The TBX seems to do well in this design, although we initially had later generations of drivers in mind at the drawing board, such as the SW and DS lines, and beyond, a natural progression from the THAM series which where design for the TBX and PS ilk of drivers, this relates to the loading where the ROAR series has a significantly larger air mass and resonator arrangement compared to the THAM series.

So far however most ROAR feedback has been based on the TBX and similarly speced drivers, and the feedback seems to suggest they are a valid candidate, which is very welcome and positive, yet I would still recommend to go for the later generations type of drivers to get the very most out of it, but it depends on the users needs.

To me, a good diy design should not require alot in terms of driver expense or carpentry equipment/skills to be relevant as this limits the availability.

Please keep the impressions comming.
 
not too many chances of properly running our system with Covid still messing things up.. we did get to do an upgrade round of the amps though.

did you ever plan to design a ROAR 21? not saying that I would build one as I can barely fit the current ROAR 15 in our car but one can always dream of more SPL and lower frequency response.. for example with something like B&C 21DS115 :)
 
did you ever plan to design a ROAR 21?
We have talked about it, also for the THAM series, but it has never gone beyond words seeing as we consider the usability to a high degree in all our designs, the size and weight increase along with driver cost is why we have no plans to go public with any 21" based design.


The ROAR series was about as far as we dared stretch these metrics, and you get more, more weight, more external volume and of course also significantly more output, but beyond the 18" versions in the current line up of THAM and ROAR we recommend scaling up the number of boxes rather than going for even bigger ones.


I did have a THAM24 based on the PDN.2450 more or less ready to publicize but I halted seeing as the estimated adoption rate would be very low, as a statement or showcase design, sure, but that's not what we are about, we want to address real needs, provide something highly useful for a wide base of potential users.
 
If I designed some ROAR and THAM to reach 18Hz they would have to be installation built or truck transported with crew requirements, not an option in my book, and compared to the number of users requiring 40Hz and up with a decent SPL/size ratio at a low-ish cost I would think they are fairly few.

Maybe I'm just old :)

But I'm not dismissing the fun of it, its just likely to be a run around for those requirements, I'd rather go (I cant believe I writing this) BR or Sealed and compensate with DSP and power to reach that low, it would be cheaper, easier, lighter and smaller, it just would not be as fun.