Back in the mid 80's the mom and pop computer store on the corner became a commonplace, as did the DIY "build your own PC" industry fueled by magazines like Computer Shopper which was about an inch thick in the late 80's.
Myself and a couple other fellow Motorola employees started visiting nearly every store and magazine advertiser within a 50 mile radius or so. We would ask to speak to their "techie" and if he was clueless (often the case) we would offer to buy their "defectives" for about 10 cents on the dollar.
This turned out to be a highly lucrative game for several years. We could make good PC's and sell them at work, hamfests, and computer shows, and at school (I started college at age 37).
If it wasn't for poor repair people, good repair people would have less business.
Myself and a couple other fellow Motorola employees started visiting nearly every store and magazine advertiser within a 50 mile radius or so. We would ask to speak to their "techie" and if he was clueless (often the case) we would offer to buy their "defectives" for about 10 cents on the dollar.
This turned out to be a highly lucrative game for several years. We could make good PC's and sell them at work, hamfests, and computer shows, and at school (I started college at age 37).
If it wasn't for poor repair people, good repair people would have less business.
Hi wiseoldtech,
So true. Big mouth often means no brains.
George, the only thing wrong with what you are saying is that we end up cleaning up after stupid messes. That costs a lot of bench time and I would much rather deal with fewer, but more reasonable repairs.
Computers are easy enough to clean up, but electronic systems aren't plug and play as you well know. So doing board level repair after an idiot can be challenging, never mind that you are now dealing with multiple problems.
In the '70's and very early '80's, botched repairs were much easier to deal with. Things were less complicated and easier to work on. That and I think the stupid factor wasn't as high. Today, most things are much harder to get into making a simple 20 minute repair in the 80's more like a 1 hour odyssey. That's if they didn't do something else that required you to get back into it. Nested problems. Then there is generally a much poorer quality of design these days. On top of that, model life is so short that design flaws never get sorted and service people suffer having to deal with poor design. Contract manufacturing, the root of most consumer electronics problems. No one is held responsible for poor design work, or rotten assembly.
-Chris
So true. Big mouth often means no brains.
George, the only thing wrong with what you are saying is that we end up cleaning up after stupid messes. That costs a lot of bench time and I would much rather deal with fewer, but more reasonable repairs.
Computers are easy enough to clean up, but electronic systems aren't plug and play as you well know. So doing board level repair after an idiot can be challenging, never mind that you are now dealing with multiple problems.
In the '70's and very early '80's, botched repairs were much easier to deal with. Things were less complicated and easier to work on. That and I think the stupid factor wasn't as high. Today, most things are much harder to get into making a simple 20 minute repair in the 80's more like a 1 hour odyssey. That's if they didn't do something else that required you to get back into it. Nested problems. Then there is generally a much poorer quality of design these days. On top of that, model life is so short that design flaws never get sorted and service people suffer having to deal with poor design. Contract manufacturing, the root of most consumer electronics problems. No one is held responsible for poor design work, or rotten assembly.
-Chris
And.....
To add to Chris's comments above....
Running a service business, the old saying of "Time is money" applies.
So those botched-up products by the non techs and customers, along with poor design, and the increasing difficulty procuring service information, along with the increased time spent on disassembly made my job more strenuous.
And when the shop gets backlogged, customers become irritated - so that's another thing we have to deal with.
Plus they don't like to hear that we have to order specific parts to complete the job.
And those units with poor design?..... and the parts distributor runs out of a high failure part/board..... yet another issue.
These "hobbyists" on here have no clue what it's like to be a professional repair tech.
To add to Chris's comments above....
Running a service business, the old saying of "Time is money" applies.
So those botched-up products by the non techs and customers, along with poor design, and the increasing difficulty procuring service information, along with the increased time spent on disassembly made my job more strenuous.
And when the shop gets backlogged, customers become irritated - so that's another thing we have to deal with.
Plus they don't like to hear that we have to order specific parts to complete the job.
And those units with poor design?..... and the parts distributor runs out of a high failure part/board..... yet another issue.
These "hobbyists" on here have no clue what it's like to be a professional repair tech.
Be very careful when desoldering SMD electrolytics, the pcb-traces are destroyed easyly. Hot air from the top and pre-heating from the bottom side is recrommended. Desoldering tht electrolytics from a multilayer-board is tricky too because the vias may be destructed during removal. Hot air and pre-heating is mandatory here.
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to that I say HA !
some schematics are worse than dangerous as they show you the wrong thing that can run you around in logic loops of failure
*cough nad/cambridge audio/etc cough*.
Besides, I always work with my eyes open.
don't want to burn myself with the oxy set when im putting in new parts
to that I say HA !
some schematics are worse than dangerous as they show you the wrong thing that can run you around in logic loops of failure
*cough nad/cambridge audio/etc cough*.
Besides, I always work with my eyes open.
don't want to burn myself with the oxy set when im putting in new parts
Oh, I've had the occasional misfortune of following a bad schematic.
Both the manufacturer's version, or Sams Photofacts have pizzed me off.
And then there's the issue with "design changes" or "mid-run" modifications.
Lots of cursing at the shop at times.
Best part is when it is deemed that the schematics and any info is verbotten.
Most places won't touch ME gear because of this BS.
I only did it as a favour for a friend as the other option would've involved stupid amounts of money.
I so dislike such levels of industry or brand protectionism.
And it will never stop anyone serious from reverse engineering it.
Most places won't touch ME gear because of this BS.
I only did it as a favour for a friend as the other option would've involved stupid amounts of money.
I so dislike such levels of industry or brand protectionism.
And it will never stop anyone serious from reverse engineering it.
I finally got to the bottom of the problem.
Its not the diodes at all.
I tried ultra fast diodes and the problem is still there.
Turns out the DCC signal generator is a motor driver IC.
It has two cross conduction capacitors to obviously stop cross conduction.
These delay on time of each half of H bridge giving a few microseconds none conducting region in the waveform.
So I humbly apologise to ebay for blaming their diodes.
I kanged in a replacement tweeter into the original faceplate to avoid scrapping these Energy RC-10... I did the pair of course.
One original was damaged, the other one was used to replace another damaged tweeter in it's big brother the RC-70.
At least it kind of looks the part?
Original was aluminum... Replacement is silk but I was able to make it fit (Peerless if anyone cares).
Those with a keen eye will notice the picture of the aluminum tweeter is of it in the RC-70 that took the original tweeter from the RC-10 (wider box).
One original was damaged, the other one was used to replace another damaged tweeter in it's big brother the RC-70.
At least it kind of looks the part?
Original was aluminum... Replacement is silk but I was able to make it fit (Peerless if anyone cares).
Those with a keen eye will notice the picture of the aluminum tweeter is of it in the RC-70 that took the original tweeter from the RC-10 (wider box).
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I tried the new "updated" RC-10 in parallel with the ELAC 6.2b whatever it's called that I wired them in parallel on the same switch output. They really complement each other. And yes, the amplifiers I build/use are capable of the extra current.
Now I have the Tower Of Sound or something... They all work.
EDIT: Damn. The TV really looks crooked on this angle.
Now I have the Tower Of Sound or something... They all work.
EDIT: Damn. The TV really looks crooked on this angle.
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The electric lock for the trunk of my Renault Laguna 2.
This junk part goes stuck for unknown reason.
WD40 does help but doesn't give a perfectly reliable result.
It has been a deep mess to open the trunk. One must sneak inside from the back seat, then, there is a lever at the lock to force opening, however that was jammed, enable to unlock the jammed lock.
The repair is not completed, but at last on the way.
This junk part goes stuck for unknown reason.
WD40 does help but doesn't give a perfectly reliable result.
It has been a deep mess to open the trunk. One must sneak inside from the back seat, then, there is a lever at the lock to force opening, however that was jammed, enable to unlock the jammed lock.
The repair is not completed, but at last on the way.
Use some Super Lube grease on the new lock mechanism.
My hood lock on the Lincoln was a fuss to open too.
I flushed out all the standard grease and relubed it with SLube.
Works beautifully for years now.
Standard repair for any of the 1960's and early 70's Garrard turntables sold in Florida. Use one in a college dorm room, or worse a frat house and it will last 6 months to a year before sticking on the last song, or failing to return the arm. The factory lube had an affinity for dust and cigarette smoke. Either or both turned the lube into glue!
A few years ago I bought an SL-95 that had been stored for about 30 years. It took lots of acetone to free some of the stuck parts.
Oh yes, I'm well-versed on those and many other brands of record changers.
I must have overhauled hundreds of them over the decades, I know all the tricks needed to get them going again..... for a long time.
I usually do a complete tear-down, which takes time, but it's the only way to guarantee solid reliable operation again.
In many it also requires re-calibration of adjustments, but since I've done them so much, it comes naturally to me.
(thus the "guru" mention in my signature)
Some audio guys online used to give me a hard time for the use of Super Lube, insisting on using "original" brands of grease and oil.
Funny thing is, now many have taken my advice and rave about Super Lube's use in restoring turntables/changers/tape decks/cd mechs.
I don't spout BS when it comes to servicing - it's my profession.
My first turntable was a 95B. I don't remember what cartridge it had.
Gave my ex my last turntable with an M91ED in it, and an bought an SL-1200 and installed my Pickering V15/625E in it. Although I really liked the Empire 2000Z.
One of these days I will build a MC amp and install a Denon DL-103 to see how it sounds.
Gave my ex my last turntable with an M91ED in it, and an bought an SL-1200 and installed my Pickering V15/625E in it. Although I really liked the Empire 2000Z.
One of these days I will build a MC amp and install a Denon DL-103 to see how it sounds.
My first real turntable was an SL-72B. The southeastern US Garrard rep traded me a brand new Zero-100 for it since his personal collection did not include a 72b. That trade was a mistake, and the Zero was my last Garrard. I got a Technics SL-D2 in the late 70's and still use it.