DIY Sony VFET pt 2 (N-Channel Build)

Looks much better Vunce.

I found what looks like a K-type thermocouple for my DMM and touching the V-fet gives me 160F or 71C. The non contact infrared device was off by over 20C. Only a few degrees difference from the T-bar to the heatsink so I think there is good contact. Need to see what temps others are getting.
 
Thanks SL.
I also have a probe for my Fluke DMM, when I'm powered up I will check temps. Shiny metal gives inaccurate IR thermometer readings. If you put a piece of Kapton tape on the device your readings would improve. But, I wouldn't do that with the precious SIT's, you could remove the labelling when the tape is removed😱
 
Vunce, Rewind,

Nice work with getting the heat-sinks flattened and now the fit with the T sections looks much better.

Monk55,

Is the Greatful Dead pic somehow related to the discussion, or I am missing something? Sorry if I come across obtuse. 🙂
 
It has to do whith which tolerances the manufacturer chooses to operate with. I think it is a shame that Modushop sends out heatsinks with scratches and uneven surfaces. They could have impressed 300 future customers, instead many are left with "meh". At least it has a nice front and rear, but all other surfaces have scratches and needle-like shavings sticking out. I managed to place all of the faults inside or under the amp, so I guess that's nice. I won't have to think about it after I am finished with the amp


The problem is that is something out of our control.

Our supplier which anodizes all our panels usually use special hooks to pick up them and put them in large anodization tanks. When they do this, the part where they use the hooks can have some scratches and may be a little uneven but since this part is covered and remains on the inside it will not be visibile
 
Looks much better Vunce.

I found what looks like a K-type thermocouple for my DMM and touching the V-fet gives me 160F or 71C. The non contact infrared device was off by over 20C. Only a few degrees difference from the T-bar to the heatsink so I think there is good contact. Need to see what temps others are getting.
This follows my AMP’s performance, almost to a 1 degree C. I get 69C or 70C on the FETs with the thermocouple.

Rafa.
 
Almost any tape over shiny surface works better for IR thermometer. White liquid paper correction fluid is excellent, as is black vinyl PVC tape, even white paper masking tape, blue tape etc. the Kapton is the only one that will take heat and not leave nasty tape residue. The emissivity of most plastics and paper is close to 1 whereas shiny aluminum is like 0.2.
 
Darn tight in there….time for a break & go over everything prior to power.
 

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Did some people get a DPST switch in their kits? Mine is SPST but jumpering the relay should do the same thing as you're still switching the incoming power.

Also how are people securing the LED? There are tapped holes on either side but no hardware. A dab of epoxy should do the trick.
 
The front gets really hot. If you don't want to breath hot glue fumes I suggest something else.

Here is last nights Digikey shopping list:

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CWI494-ND
SWITCH ROCKER DPST 16A 125V

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