It was also later I found the blue LED. My has a light blue color (not 100% white transparent). Also the tiny screws for the power connector can "hide".....
I don't use my blue LED so will be happy to ship it 🙂
I don't use my blue LED so will be happy to ship it 🙂
I'm keeping my spare bag of 3 and 5mm Blue diffuse LEDs right next to Pepper jar
any proper House needs same quantity of these
🙂
any proper House needs same quantity of these
🙂
Hey, you guys are really GREAT!!!
I just read your posts and couldn't wait, so I opened the parcel again and indeed found a light blue LED in another bag inside the enveloppe with the PS connector. That's great news... Dudeism and Music2myear win!
I wish further to express my sincere thanks to MEPER for his extremely kind proposal: true DIYAUDIO team spirit.
Last but not least, I will try next time not to bother you by being less childish and to unpack everything carefully (as I usualy do, preferably at reasonable hours) instead of unpacking like a kid at Xmas my latest toy in the twilight, LOL!
Enjoy music
Claude
PS: thanks also to ZM for your humorous destressing post 🙂
I just read your posts and couldn't wait, so I opened the parcel again and indeed found a light blue LED in another bag inside the enveloppe with the PS connector. That's great news... Dudeism and Music2myear win!
I wish further to express my sincere thanks to MEPER for his extremely kind proposal: true DIYAUDIO team spirit.
Last but not least, I will try next time not to bother you by being less childish and to unpack everything carefully (as I usualy do, preferably at reasonable hours) instead of unpacking like a kid at Xmas my latest toy in the twilight, LOL!
Enjoy music
Claude
PS: thanks also to ZM for your humorous destressing post 🙂
Patience, my dear Watson
especially when unpacking 1K pcs of 2SK2145 from reel, to small compartment
especially when unpacking 1K pcs of 2SK2145 from reel, to small compartment
No sir, I still have an advantage there. Still waiting on mine.
Chassis is all alone and empty waiting to get some guts! 🙂
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Rafa, You'll have the advantage then of copying the nicest and cleanest wire layout from all of the postings thus far 😉
Oh, Rafa, I am sorry to read that... but also a bit happy, I must confess.
Because: "Rafa, You'll have the advantage then of copying the nicest and cleanest wire layout from all of the postings thus far"
....Means the pressure is on YOU, Rafa, and not on ME!!!!
🙂))
ZM mode off, I hope you get your parts very soon
Claude
Because: "Rafa, You'll have the advantage then of copying the nicest and cleanest wire layout from all of the postings thus far"
....Means the pressure is on YOU, Rafa, and not on ME!!!!
🙂))
ZM mode off, I hope you get your parts very soon
Claude
About the "clicking" sound from chassis when amp is waring up / cooling down I have not observed this and I wondered why. I have a "theory" why I don't have it. I have installed the rails on heatsink so top and bottom cover are resting on these and not on the heatsinks. So there is just 0.2mm or så gap from heatsink to top/bottom cover. I wonder if this makes the difference.
Nope. I am still waiting for mine. Tracking info has no updates for about three weeks now. Anyone else in the same boat?
Looking into C1 on the output board, the big 10000uF cap.
It is rated 50V... on the other hand on the schematic I can read 20V close to it. Might want to play with bypass caps I have lying around, but these have lower voltage ratings...
Question: what is the max voltage that cap is likely to see? Is a 50V rating really needed or would say 25V do the trick?
Many thanks
Claude
It is rated 50V... on the other hand on the schematic I can read 20V close to it. Might want to play with bypass caps I have lying around, but these have lower voltage ratings...
Question: what is the max voltage that cap is likely to see? Is a 50V rating really needed or would say 25V do the trick?
Many thanks
Claude
Components kit shipping time from USA to France was two weeks.
If doubts about parcel I always go to the postal office and with my tracking number
they can verify with internal postal tracking software if is going in right direction 🙂
you have 20V DC not AC so 40V /50V cap is a minimum protection for your speaker in case of an unpleasant volume surprise on the input 🙂
For the electrolytics I believe the ESR value goes down (good thing) as the voltage rating of the cap goes up. Yet again, Nelson knows what he's doing when he designs this stuff. I don't think the bypass cap does much here, but doesn't hurt anything. I guess a "less tossing while sleeping" thing, as ZM says.
well, with 36V rail, you don't have much choice about cap rating - 35V dc is low, while 50Vdc is next standard value
of course , one can put 35Vdc, 25Vdc, 16Vdc, 6V3dc cap there , but fireworks and popcorning is hardly objective, when making an amp
of course , one can put 35Vdc, 25Vdc, 16Vdc, 6V3dc cap there , but fireworks and popcorning is hardly objective, when making an amp
The 10.000 uF output cap will be very close to its ESR value already at relative low frequencies so a small bypass cap is "nonsense". If the output cap is audio grade quality it will stay at its ESR at 20 kHz and higher frequencies and then from a point raise in impedance caused by the inductance. I guess the ESR for such a cap is maybe 10-15 mohm? .....try to calculate the impedance of the small bypass cap at 20 KHz and compare to 10-15 mOhm.