DIY Sony VFET Builders thread

Hey, you guys are really GREAT!!!

I just read your posts and couldn't wait, so I opened the parcel again and indeed found a light blue LED in another bag inside the enveloppe with the PS connector. That's great news... Dudeism and Music2myear win!

I wish further to express my sincere thanks to MEPER for his extremely kind proposal: true DIYAUDIO team spirit.

Last but not least, I will try next time not to bother you by being less childish and to unpack everything carefully (as I usualy do, preferably at reasonable hours) instead of unpacking like a kid at Xmas my latest toy in the twilight, LOL!

Enjoy music

Claude
PS: thanks also to ZM for your humorous destressing post :)
 
Oh, Rafa, I am sorry to read that... but also a bit happy, I must confess.

Because: "Rafa, You'll have the advantage then of copying the nicest and cleanest wire layout from all of the postings thus far"

....Means the pressure is on YOU, Rafa, and not on ME!!!!

:)))


ZM mode off, I hope you get your parts very soon

Claude
 
About the "clicking" sound from chassis when amp is waring up / cooling down I have not observed this and I wondered why. I have a "theory" why I don't have it. I have installed the rails on heatsink so top and bottom cover are resting on these and not on the heatsinks. So there is just 0.2mm or så gap from heatsink to top/bottom cover. I wonder if this makes the difference.
 
Looking into C1 on the output board, the big 10000uF cap.

It is rated 50V... on the other hand on the schematic I can read 20V close to it. Might want to play with bypass caps I have lying around, but these have lower voltage ratings...

Question: what is the max voltage that cap is likely to see? Is a 50V rating really needed or would say 25V do the trick?

Many thanks

Claude
 
Nope. I am still waiting for mine. Tracking info has no updates for about three weeks now. Anyone else in the same boat?

Components kit shipping time from USA to France was two weeks.

If doubts about parcel I always go to the postal office and with my tracking number
they can verify with internal postal tracking software if is going in right direction :)
 
Looking into C1 on the output board, the big 10000uF cap.

It is rated 50V... on the other hand on the schematic I can read 20V close to it. Might want to play with bypass caps I have lying around, but these have lower voltage ratings...

Question: what is the max voltage that cap is likely to see? Is a 50V rating really needed or would say 25V do the trick?

Many thanks

Claude

you have 20V DC not AC so 40V /50V cap is a minimum protection for your speaker in case of an unpleasant volume surprise on the input :)
 
Official Court Jester
Joined 2003
Paid Member
Looking into C1 on the output board, the big 10000uF cap.

It is rated 50V... on the other hand on the schematic I can read 20V close to it. Might want to play with bypass caps I have lying around, but these have lower voltage ratings...

Question: what is the max voltage that cap is likely to see? Is a 50V rating really needed or would say 25V do the trick?

Many thanks

Claude

rail value
 
Member
Joined 2001
Paid Member
For the electrolytics I believe the ESR value goes down (good thing) as the voltage rating of the cap goes up. Yet again, Nelson knows what he's doing when he designs this stuff. I don't think the bypass cap does much here, but doesn't hurt anything. I guess a "less tossing while sleeping" thing, as ZM says.
 
The 10.000 uF output cap will be very close to its ESR value already at relative low frequencies so a small bypass cap is "nonsense". If the output cap is audio grade quality it will stay at its ESR at 20 kHz and higher frequencies and then from a point raise in impedance caused by the inductance. I guess the ESR for such a cap is maybe 10-15 mohm? .....try to calculate the impedance of the small bypass cap at 20 KHz and compare to 10-15 mOhm.