My recent Visaton FRS8-M build. TABAQ is 116 cm^2 at 86 cm length with a 15 cm^2 at 9 cm length, overall length is 95 cm. Sounds great, lately enjoying David Bowie - Blackstar, Marvin Gaye - Whats Going On and Fleetwood Mac - Rumours albums, they sound great to me!
P.S. Other equipment in picture T.Amp E-800 and T.Racks Mini DSP 4x4.
P.S. Other equipment in picture T.Amp E-800 and T.Racks Mini DSP 4x4.
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Entas great work there, I really like how you did the driver cover panel, very nice...so enjoy the music.....all the best
Cover panel is not something I wanted to do, but Visaton FRS8M has weird frame with a clearance from the edge of about 1 mm or even less, so its basically impossible to mount them the usual way. Right now they are mounted on the back of the panel instead of top.
Tabaq with faital 3"
I made this speakers with metal frame 3mm.
My amp is crescendo millennium , preamp is pass b1 buffer and my source is audioengine b1 Bluetooth dac with poco x3 smartphone. The sound is fantastic!
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
I made this speakers with metal frame 3mm.
My amp is crescendo millennium , preamp is pass b1 buffer and my source is audioengine b1 Bluetooth dac with poco x3 smartphone. The sound is fantastic!
I have been planning on building a pair of these speakers for the tb 1337sdf. I already have a number of them and want to put them to use' I stumbled upon these at my local re-store.
They were only 10$ for the pair so I couldnt pass them up. They are however bigger than I need. The depth is perfect but I need to reduce the internal width by 2 1/4 ".Easy enough to do by cutting some wood to fit. I was wondering though if something like styrofoam or hi density foam could be used instead. Those kinds of damping materials are not normally used in these types of speakers so I wondered of this type of material would be detrimental.
They were only 10$ for the pair so I couldnt pass them up. They are however bigger than I need. The depth is perfect but I need to reduce the internal width by 2 1/4 ".Easy enough to do by cutting some wood to fit. I was wondering though if something like styrofoam or hi density foam could be used instead. Those kinds of damping materials are not normally used in these types of speakers so I wondered of this type of material would be detrimental.
Or "I will use 1 in thick XPS foam insulation sheathing (pink stuff from HD)" as X says in this thread:
Light as Air Slot Loaded Band Pass Sub
Light as Air Slot Loaded Band Pass Sub
Thank you both for your replies. Both of these options were being considered. I may end up going with both just to get the correct thickness.
My 4FE32 build – breaking the silence after 4 months
In the last two years I have built two pairs of TABAQs and have been the main instigator in another two pairs of TABAQ speakers built and enjoyed here in Africa. They all use the superb sounding Peerless P830987 drivers. These 3” drivers are simply a match made in heaven for Bjorn’s TABAQ design.
I decided to build myself a pair of TABAQs during Covid lockdown, simply to have a nice project and also to replace my Tannoy bookshelf monitors (two way speakers) with full range speakers. Inspired by member kissabout2002’s impressions (see this post), I was drawn to using the slightly bigger and more efficient 4” Faital Pro 4FE32 drivers that I could get locally at a very good price. Using 15mm CNC cut Birch plywood I finally (after a few setbacks) finished my TABAQs in November 2020.
My first listening impressions – horrible! They sounded terrible compared to the P830987 drivers. Shrill, ear piercing with a thin midrange. I agreed with captain pugwash’s impressions (see this post). I was so so disappointed and even depressed for weeks that I considered to chop them up for firewood. I decided to try some other tweaks first before using the axe. Changing the amount of stuffing (which was a guess in the first place) did not bring much relief to my ears. Then I tried a BSC with 4.7ohm + 1uH inductor. Getting better but still I was not happy at all. At this point I connected a subwoofer (bi-amped) but struggled to get them well integrated with the sub. Then a 10ohm + 1uH BSC brought better balance between the highs, mids and bass. There was hope suddenly. They mellowed much more but now the bass was a bit much. After 3 months I tried a 8ohm + 1uH BSC. I finally found the right balance. The drivers are well run-in and changed character from shrill shouting to beautiful and natural sounding. The sub now blends in perfectly. I am a very happy chap now. I am giving my Tannoys away now – don’t need them no more.
I did not compare the P830987 vs 4FE32 TABAQs directly. The TABAQs with P830987 drivers still have a magic midrange and character that is hard to beat. I would say that the 4FE32 drivers are more analytical, better high range (no tweeters needed), brings more detail and clarity, and can handle complex music better with more control and higher SPL.
In the last two years I have built two pairs of TABAQs and have been the main instigator in another two pairs of TABAQ speakers built and enjoyed here in Africa. They all use the superb sounding Peerless P830987 drivers. These 3” drivers are simply a match made in heaven for Bjorn’s TABAQ design.
I decided to build myself a pair of TABAQs during Covid lockdown, simply to have a nice project and also to replace my Tannoy bookshelf monitors (two way speakers) with full range speakers. Inspired by member kissabout2002’s impressions (see this post), I was drawn to using the slightly bigger and more efficient 4” Faital Pro 4FE32 drivers that I could get locally at a very good price. Using 15mm CNC cut Birch plywood I finally (after a few setbacks) finished my TABAQs in November 2020.
My first listening impressions – horrible! They sounded terrible compared to the P830987 drivers. Shrill, ear piercing with a thin midrange. I agreed with captain pugwash’s impressions (see this post). I was so so disappointed and even depressed for weeks that I considered to chop them up for firewood. I decided to try some other tweaks first before using the axe. Changing the amount of stuffing (which was a guess in the first place) did not bring much relief to my ears. Then I tried a BSC with 4.7ohm + 1uH inductor. Getting better but still I was not happy at all. At this point I connected a subwoofer (bi-amped) but struggled to get them well integrated with the sub. Then a 10ohm + 1uH BSC brought better balance between the highs, mids and bass. There was hope suddenly. They mellowed much more but now the bass was a bit much. After 3 months I tried a 8ohm + 1uH BSC. I finally found the right balance. The drivers are well run-in and changed character from shrill shouting to beautiful and natural sounding. The sub now blends in perfectly. I am a very happy chap now. I am giving my Tannoys away now – don’t need them no more.
I did not compare the P830987 vs 4FE32 TABAQs directly. The TABAQs with P830987 drivers still have a magic midrange and character that is hard to beat. I would say that the 4FE32 drivers are more analytical, better high range (no tweeters needed), brings more detail and clarity, and can handle complex music better with more control and higher SPL.
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Always nice when someone agrees with me twocents !! I also tried various BSC configurations but never managed to tame the 4FE32 drivers enough in my set up. I would guess however that if your room, source or amp are a bit too wooly then the 4FE32 is a great addition.
Lovely cabinet work by the way. Do you think that your tabaq has benefited from birch ply over mdf plus the extra 3mm thickness? I ask because I was thinking along the same lines for my P830987 drivers (which are still amazing).
Lovely cabinet work by the way. Do you think that your tabaq has benefited from birch ply over mdf plus the extra 3mm thickness? I ask because I was thinking along the same lines for my P830987 drivers (which are still amazing).
Twocents, great job hiding the ugly bezel of the Faitals. Is that foam or cork under the cloth covers?
Nice work, Twocents! It’s always nice to be able to recover from a speaker design failure. For your BSC, I think you mean 1mH inductor right and not 1uH. Because 1uH won’t provide much baffle step compensation.
I have never tried 4FE32’s and always assumed they were paper. But your photos make them look more like black fiberglass cones.
I have never tried 4FE32’s and always assumed they were paper. But your photos make them look more like black fiberglass cones.
Captain – I wish I could answer this from experience, but I can’t. Looks like most members are in favor of Birch ply over MDF. If you would be able to really hear a difference I don’t know, but my motivations for 15mm Birch plywood were bragging rights, the natural light wood color (it matches some other furniture in our house - WAF) and I also used the opportunity to cut wood from the board for other projects including the matching subwoofer, plus I sleep better now. MDF is certainly much cheaper here and easier to work with (for me), but it takes more effort to get a nice finish. The Birch plywood was just treated with two layers of clear polyurethane varnish with a light sanding between layers.
If I had to rebuild these speakers, would I use the Peerless drivers or MDF instead? No!
You actually gave me the inspiration a few hundred posts back (around March 2020), thanks perceval. I had to think long and hard about how to mount these ugly looking drivers, but in the end grills were needed to keep (small and other inquisitive) fingers at bay. So, my grills (or mini baffles) are made from 6mm (two 3mm layers glued together) MDF panels with a layer of felt material under the grill cloth, which affectively is a small supra baffle held in place with neodymium magnets. They serve a few purposes – grills to cover/protect the drivers, drivers are now flush with this mini baffle, and the felt around the driver supposedly helps reduce baffle diffraction. With these grills on the TABAQs sound fantastic! Cannot hear any difference without the grills. 😀
X, yes you are correct – 1mH, 3A inductors. I am busy trying to put a bom together for my TDA7293 amp, so I have lots of uF on my brain. Suppliers are running out of stock on regular components – I might have to order from 3 different suppliers, and that is a mission.
The 4FE32 drivers definitely do not have paper cones, and you can hear it. But mine are sounding nice and warm now. 😉
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twocents your build is beautiful and I like how did you manage to cover the driver bezel of the 4FE32. I am start realising that we have different way to listen music I am still using the Tabaq original design with 4FE32 without BSC and sound so fantastic to me, the middle and bass are amazing, I must say it takes several hours of use until the driver change completely sound. Next Tabaq I will give a try to the P830987. Other thing I noticed your Tabaq is the updated design, I am right? In my case I used the original Tabaq for 3" drivers, that was a suggestion of Bjorn himself.....all the best and enjoy the music....ciaoooo
TABAQs with curved cabinets - has anyone mad a pair?
I have read this thread over the past few days with great interest. Ever since the New Record Day review I have been interested in the Sound Sommeliers but, for reasons explained, they are no longer produced. Therefore DIY is the option. The thing is, I like the curved cabinets of the Sommeliers. I own some curved aluminium cabinet Piegas and my father has Tannoy Revolution Signatures with curved cabinets - they have advantages.
So my questions are:
1) Has anyone built a replica of the Sommeliers?
2) If so, how did you adjust the cabinet volume/cross section to take account of the curved cabinet?
3) What materials did you use, particularly for the curved cabinet sides?
I noticed an example using foam about mid-way through the thread. Has anyone used flexible ply board or even thicker card that is curved around then glued in multiple layers? Alternatively what about sheet aluminium? As I understand it, the Sommeliers used aluminium for the main cabinet and iron for the port/foot assembly.
Would mounting a brace at a mid-point in the cabinet cause issues with the transmission line? I think a brace might be required to help assembly the curved cabinet sides.
Any thoughts would be appreciated.
Alex
I have read this thread over the past few days with great interest. Ever since the New Record Day review I have been interested in the Sound Sommeliers but, for reasons explained, they are no longer produced. Therefore DIY is the option. The thing is, I like the curved cabinets of the Sommeliers. I own some curved aluminium cabinet Piegas and my father has Tannoy Revolution Signatures with curved cabinets - they have advantages.
So my questions are:
1) Has anyone built a replica of the Sommeliers?
2) If so, how did you adjust the cabinet volume/cross section to take account of the curved cabinet?
3) What materials did you use, particularly for the curved cabinet sides?
I noticed an example using foam about mid-way through the thread. Has anyone used flexible ply board or even thicker card that is curved around then glued in multiple layers? Alternatively what about sheet aluminium? As I understand it, the Sommeliers used aluminium for the main cabinet and iron for the port/foot assembly.
Would mounting a brace at a mid-point in the cabinet cause issues with the transmission line? I think a brace might be required to help assembly the curved cabinet sides.
Any thoughts would be appreciated.
Alex
Thanks for the kind words kissabout. I used Plan B given in post #1651. It is a version of the updated plan for 3" drivers. However, since I use 4" drivers I changed those plans for my build so that the port length is 13cm, like the original. So, you and I have the same port lengths for the 4FE32 drivers. I really like this plan (Plan B in post #1651), since it raises the driver a little higher - closer to ear level. Add some feet to lift it still higher.
Hi,
Which plans are your speakers based on? I want to build a pair with the W5-2143. Could you please share if you don't mind?
Best,
Selim
Many thanks - yes I looked at your build - it was what got me thinking of options for a curved cabinet build!
I will look through the other thread in detail - thank you for providing the link.
Just a few questions if I may?
1) From your experience, would it be best to use thicker sheets or build up a curve using a laminate of thin sheets?
2) What glue/adhesive did you use?
3) Would adding ‘mass’ to panels be advisable acoustics wise?
4) Once built, is it relatively straightforward to finish these well? Will the material take a vinyl wrap of some sort?
Alex