remove the blinking is better.
also, i am already implementing a character selector like that :
View attachment 910257
U8g2 setColorMode(2) and then fill a box around the char selected.
a monospace font is useful there
just an idea
Ok this is done in this way and indeed much better, super fast to change characters, no more blinking routine.
I also optimized the double click timings and now it is also better to go up in the menu.
Then Stones I solved your second encoder bug, I will prepare a binary for you to try and let me know if you still have the problem (you should not )
I am really polishing everything now as it is quite clean I believe, will send to few person for beta testing.
Then I need to check how it is on the VFD after removing the blinking.
Verify Q104 that E and C pins are not shorted together since my simulations shows approximately the same voltage that you measure if I do so.
In case here are the simulated measurements points for +/- 24V outputs.
Revisiting this, but in Salas' schematic, the equivalent resistors to R4, R6, R104 and R106 are 51R, not 270R as shown in the UGS Salas schematic and BOM. I haven't built a SIM yet, but your SIM shows 51R for these positions. Would those value changes result in what redjr is seeing?I am afraid I am running out of suggestions except for a bad part.
Given the 3 CCS and the current limiter look OK according to your measured values, I would change Q108 mosfet and perhaps the BJTs of the shunt part.
The passive resistors doesn't need to be changed if measured OK.
Also, from previous SMD circuit builds, check all your resistors via ohmmeter for shorts underneath. I had a 0805 resistor shorted underneath (solder bridge) which was not visible under magnification. I wish you would have used 0805 for these instead of the 0603
Would you mind sharing your SIM Eric?
Revisiting this, but in Salas' schematic, the equivalent resistors to R4, R6, R104 and R106 are 51R, not 270R as shown in the UGS Salas schematic and BOM. I haven't built a SIM yet, but your SIM shows 51R for these positions. Would those value changes result in what redjr is seeing?
Not according to sim.
Also verify if the LEDS are soldered in the appropriate directions.Also, from previous SMD circuit builds, check all your resistors via ohmmeter for shorts underneath. I had a 0805 resistor shorted underneath (solder bridge) which was not visible under magnification. I wish you would have used 0805 for these instead of the 0603
Sure - nothing secret. Here is my .asc file. Let me know if you have any trouble with it.Would you mind sharing your SIM Eric?
Attachments
Thanks Eric! The original pic of your sim several pages back had 51R instead of 270R, so was just wondering. Salas' UltraBiB schematic also uses 51R in those positions for both rails. It appears to make no difference.
Yes no difference. I just did it in order to minimize the numbers of differents parts.
Also, I changed out the AC voltage sources for DC, and replaced the pots with a pot subassembly that I had, where you can adjust the wiper on.
Not exactly an AC source. It is just an added small AC value over the DC value.
This was a quick shortcut for me to verify if any issue from input ripple.
Ah, got it, that makes sense. Not a practiced spice user here.Not exactly an AC source. It is just an added small AC value over the DC value.
This was a quick shortcut for me to verify if any issue from input ripple.
Did you manage to find and fix this intermittent cracking noise?Yes Eric, the noise is there without any source connected. I will borrow my friends' scope tonight to check the power rails as you suggested and will inform the results shortly. Thanks for now...
How about yours?@redjr - did you find your problem? I am having somewhat similar observations.
Did you manage to find and fix this intermittent cracking noise?
Yes Eric, just tonight I could solve the issue. After failing to find a logical failure, I decided to re-solder the chips on controller card. There were a few chips with excessive solder paste stuck underneath, may be that was the source of the issue. Finally I could get a clean sound, what a relief...
Thank you very much for your interest and concern.
Regards,
Umit
Just to report some progress :
Psu ready to be housed.
DB15 M-F cable to connect the power supply.
Installed "RF" shield for the front controller.
Slotted top/bottom cover.
Still missing the buttons (but i have already drawn them, plus a nifty spring mechanism to keep them solid against the fron panel in order to avoid any rattling)
And also the whole anodization on milled parts are missing. At work we are changing our supply chain and found new anodizer that must be tested before full trust. but the first parts we received are great, so i think i hav to wait no more for that.
Everything is not without concerns :
1- Have anyone tested the Shunt regulators against thermal tracking ? I have found that the output voltage can shift a lot (~2v) from cold to hot. I remember that is quite normal by some extent. but i don't recall such a great span on my Salas-original-PTH-version ultraBibs... maybe this one (the one i have implemented is very close, to not say the same, as the one that Eric made) with smd packages have different nature.
2- For whom has UGS6. Still investigating, but at the time of writing, seems that the module is not suitable for a Se-To-Bal conversion. In such scenario the output is not perfectly symmetrical nor equi-impedenced. Works GREAT with bal-To-bal use... but mabe is not reccomended for such a preamp. I am trying to implement the v4, still better than the v3, but has all the feature needed for a full-featured pre-amp like this. To be clear, i am not in search of some support, just to notify that behaviour for anybody are thinking of following this route.
Happy building !
Psu ready to be housed.
DB15 M-F cable to connect the power supply.
Installed "RF" shield for the front controller.
Slotted top/bottom cover.
Still missing the buttons (but i have already drawn them, plus a nifty spring mechanism to keep them solid against the fron panel in order to avoid any rattling)
And also the whole anodization on milled parts are missing. At work we are changing our supply chain and found new anodizer that must be tested before full trust. but the first parts we received are great, so i think i hav to wait no more for that.
Everything is not without concerns :
1- Have anyone tested the Shunt regulators against thermal tracking ? I have found that the output voltage can shift a lot (~2v) from cold to hot. I remember that is quite normal by some extent. but i don't recall such a great span on my Salas-original-PTH-version ultraBibs... maybe this one (the one i have implemented is very close, to not say the same, as the one that Eric made) with smd packages have different nature.
2- For whom has UGS6. Still investigating, but at the time of writing, seems that the module is not suitable for a Se-To-Bal conversion. In such scenario the output is not perfectly symmetrical nor equi-impedenced. Works GREAT with bal-To-bal use... but mabe is not reccomended for such a preamp. I am trying to implement the v4, still better than the v3, but has all the feature needed for a full-featured pre-amp like this. To be clear, i am not in search of some support, just to notify that behaviour for anybody are thinking of following this route.
Happy building !
Last edited:
Hi gionag
Very nice , indeed ! I love your mechanical work .
Sent you an e-mail......don't know if you had the chance to take look at it ?
EDIT: You answered my question
Regards
Ine
Very nice , indeed ! I love your mechanical work .
Sent you an e-mail......don't know if you had the chance to take look at it ?
2- For whom has UGS6. Still investigating, but at the time of writing, seems that the module is not suitable for a Se-To-Bal conversion. In such scenario the output is not perfectly symmetrical nor equi-impedenced. Works GREAT with bal-To-bal use... but mabe is not reccomended for such a preamp. I am trying to implement the v4, still better than the v3, but has all the feature needed for a full-featured pre-amp like this. To be clear, i am not in search of some support, just to notify that behaviour for anybody are thinking of following this route.
EDIT: You answered my question
Regards
Ine
Last edited:
Hi gionag
You really don't have to have a spring mechanism for the buttons.
I ordered a package of different lenghts of tactile switches from Ali-E.
It just of matter of selecting the the right lenght of the switches
My buttons are made of chromed plastic, yours will be even better, I presume solid alu. ?
Never had any problems with mine
Still missing the buttons (but i have already drawn them, plus a nifty spring mechanism to keep them solid against the fron panel in order to avoid any rattling)
You really don't have to have a spring mechanism for the buttons.
I ordered a package of different lenghts of tactile switches from Ali-E.
It just of matter of selecting the the right lenght of the switches
My buttons are made of chromed plastic, yours will be even better, I presume solid alu. ?
Never had any problems with mine
Attachments
Last edited:
Very well done, Alex...... Thumbs up.... and thanks for all the hard work
Just to report some progress :
View attachment 915183
Psu ready to be housed.
DB15 M-F cable to connect the power supply.
View attachment 915185
Installed "RF" shield for the front controller.
View attachment 915184
Slotted top/bottom cover.
Still missing the buttons (but i have already drawn them, plus a nifty spring mechanism to keep them solid against the fron panel in order to avoid any rattling)
And also the whole anodization on milled parts are missing. At work we are changing our supply chain and found new anodizer that must be tested before full trust. but the first parts we received are great, so i think i hav to wait no more for that.
Everything is not without concerns :
1- Have anyone tested the Shunt regulators against thermal tracking ? I have found that the output voltage can shift a lot (~2v) from cold to hot. I remember that is quite normal by some extent. but i don't recall such a great span on my Salas-original-PTH-version ultraBibs... maybe this one (the one i have implemented is very close, to not say the same, as the one that Eric made) with smd packages have different nature.
2- For whom has UGS6. Still investigating, but at the time of writing, seems that the module is not suitable for a Se-To-Bal conversion. In such scenario the output is not perfectly symmetrical nor equi-impedenced. Works GREAT with bal-To-bal use... but mabe is not reccomended for such a preamp. I am trying to implement the v4, still better than the v3, but has all the feature needed for a full-featured pre-amp like this. To be clear, i am not in search of some support, just to notify that behaviour for anybody are thinking of following this route.
Happy building !
Amazing work!
Just a quick question: what have you used for window in front of the OLED displays ?
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