I won't be adding a tweeter. I will be lowering the attenuation on the PS95 to make it 'louder'.
Not that you need it here but the new Dayton RST28F-4 is something I use in my other projects. It’s very smooth and easy to integrate into a XO. It’s the replacement for the now discontinued RS28F. There is also an aluminum dome version called RST28A-4, replaces the RS28A-4.
I regret no to have bought one pair of the RS28F... hardly beatable for the price !
That's true than making the bandwidtj a little downing from the bass to the treble can help but not totally a tweeter replacment though... All is about the age of the ears... after 50, it works not as fine as when having 20 as a technic !
That's true than making the bandwidtj a little downing from the bass to the treble can help but not totally a tweeter replacment though... All is about the age of the ears... after 50, it works not as fine as when having 20 as a technic !
The new RST28F is $30 to $36 and sounds about the same. Same nice build quality with metal bezel and low distortion.
I am tempted to try a quick and dirty short of the padding resistor as I can delve in there easy enough and clip a wire over R1. Would be much quicker than removing and resoldering.
I have a lot of room gain by all accounts and I am intrigued to try without and padding.
Do I need to worry about R2 aswell?
I have a lot of room gain by all accounts and I am intrigued to try without and padding.
Do I need to worry about R2 aswell?
You could add another 4.7ohm in parallel for effective 2.5ohm at R1 and about 5.5ohm overalll tweeter impedance. If you short it you will get full sensitivity. Plus apparent 3ohm impedance which isn’t the best for some amplifiers. Full sensitivity is 85dB so bass will sound about 3dB weaker than now as overall sensitivity is 82.5dB after baffle step loss on woofer. For trial and error testing I suggest keeping XO outside and use Wago connectors. Is XO a PCB or P2P?
To be clear, here is what I am suggesting:
To be clear, here is what I am suggesting:
Attachments
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Hello,
I built a pair this spring with filter as in post #944 https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-range/273524-10f-8424-rs225-8-fast-waw-ref-monitor-95.html#post5305534
Recently I sealed the front with wood glue and applied a couple of layers of matte clear coat.
I was a bit sloppy when calculating/translating the part cutouts for 18mm ply, so I got only ~5mm on each side of the rs255. But I'm very happy with the result!
I built a pair this spring with filter as in post #944 https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-range/273524-10f-8424-rs225-8-fast-waw-ref-monitor-95.html#post5305534
Recently I sealed the front with wood glue and applied a couple of layers of matte clear coat.
I was a bit sloppy when calculating/translating the part cutouts for 18mm ply, so I got only ~5mm on each side of the rs255. But I'm very happy with the result!
@Cnyg: Great to see this speaker being built and enjoyed all over the world now. Nice work, Cnyg!
@MikeJennens:
Way cool!
@Jimk04:
Love how compact this is!
@MikeJennens:
Way cool!
@Jimk04:
Love how compact this is!
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Aatto, those enclosures for the 10F look clever with the reverse taper, is that your invention?
What's the XO design used on the TL version? I have the Miflex 0.1uFs on hand, will likely use this over the Mundorf mentioned on message #2109, happy to do a similar level of caps/resistors to the Miflex on the rest of the XO.
(This is w/ the 10F/8424 & RS225-8s)
(This is w/ the 10F/8424 & RS225-8s)
Same XO as the sealed box:
I used 0.1uF Miflex to bypass the big cap on the tweeter.
These were a gift from Vunce 🙂
Currently on my 10F/RS225 TL’s.
I used 0.1uF Miflex to bypass the big cap on the tweeter.
These were a gift from Vunce 🙂
Currently on my 10F/RS225 TL’s.
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I used a wad of polyfill approximately the volume of 2 to 3 size 5 soccer (futbol) balls, loosely teased. Install it from the closed end around the sports cone all the way to the first 180deg turn. Perhaps denser towards the closed end and looser towards the turn. Leave some room around the woofer so that it can breathe. It is easy to adjust by reaching in and adding/removing some. The best way to adjust is to measure the impedance sweep and add enough to make the two peaks start to flatten out but not so much that you don't hear enough bass. The sweep lets you adjust so that both speakers are balanced. It's not a big deal, adjust to taste by ear. But the 2-3 soccer balls of volume is a good place to start.
Your build looks nice, good luck! You will really enjoy them when they are done.
Your build looks nice, good luck! You will really enjoy them when they are done.
Thanks, I will update when I'm done with the build..
I build with whatever I have on hand. The front, back and side using 24mm plywood and the inner part using 12mm. I maintain the inside diameter to cope the thickness difference
I build with whatever I have on hand. The front, back and side using 24mm plywood and the inner part using 12mm. I maintain the inside diameter to cope the thickness difference
