It's a great unit, just got 2 more. I have them in 3 builds.
Very simple install, just near RCA inputs. The pad is also designed to hold Alps blue, from parts Express and others. It needs an extension, be aligned with face plate hole and board needs to be at correct height for volume pot.
Power comes either from positive side of power supply, to a D/C input on board, or it has a mini power supply w/ rectifiers for small transformer and A/C input on board....your choice.. I just pirated power from positive side, I-Select draws teeny amount, negligible.
I will get a pic up when by camera.
Russellc
Very simple install, just near RCA inputs. The pad is also designed to hold Alps blue, from parts Express and others. It needs an extension, be aligned with face plate hole and board needs to be at correct height for volume pot.
Power comes either from positive side of power supply, to a D/C input on board, or it has a mini power supply w/ rectifiers for small transformer and A/C input on board....your choice.. I just pirated power from positive side, I-Select draws teeny amount, negligible.
I will get a pic up when by camera.
Russellc
Last edited:
This is the best solution I've found (so far) for getting the SMD transistors soldered;
Take some masking tape and cut a very thin (1 MM or thereabouts) and long 50-75mm (2-3") strip. Put the SMD in the middle of the strip - now you have a long enough handle you can place and align it easily with two hands and then stick it down. Solder one leg. Once the first leg is done it won't move and finish the other two. Easy!
Take some masking tape and cut a very thin (1 MM or thereabouts) and long 50-75mm (2-3") strip. Put the SMD in the middle of the strip - now you have a long enough handle you can place and align it easily with two hands and then stick it down. Solder one leg. Once the first leg is done it won't move and finish the other two. Easy!
Attachments
Last edited:
I could'nt be bothered to wait for my gel flux to turn up so I used some BluTack to hold mine in place while I soldered the first couple of legs, then removed the BluTack to finish them off. Turned out great!
Attachments
Like an idiot despite taking my time I ended up soldering the KSA1220AYS output transistors the wrong way round as I wasn't quite paying attention to the flat of the silkscreen. As a result I had a hard time desoldering one of them and it got a bit warm. Anyway I am a little concerned about the component now but I switched them round the right way regardless but have not powered up the board yet. Is there a way to test in the circuit if one of the output transistors has failed? What would I need to check or look out for? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Okay I've sussed it. Powered it up anyway and measured and adjusted the DC offset and got it bang on zero for both channels. Next step to build it into an enclosure. I am going to use the same Hammond enclosure as I did for the Whammy. Everything will fit nice and snug. 
Attachments
Parts kits are in the store now, contains all the transistors, caps and resistors to build it with the big outputs or the small. Also includes 2 extra 2SK209 in case you drop one on carpet or sneeze. 
I have one built up with the kit parts, it works beautifully and is currently the preamp I listen to the most. Love it!
You can find it in the drop-down menu on the PCB page - Wayne's Burning Amp 2018 Linestage – diyAudio Store
I have one built up with the kit parts, it works beautifully and is currently the preamp I listen to the most. Love it!
You can find it in the drop-down menu on the PCB page - Wayne's Burning Amp 2018 Linestage – diyAudio Store
Last edited:
I agree with 6L6. I currently prefer my BA2018 over my other preamps.
Although I am not driving headphones, I was reading Dimitri Danyuk's "Build a Fully Balanced Transconductance Preamplifier" in this month's Audio Express. He says "I prefer the sound of transistors with large dies in circuits without overall feedback." So I thought I would replace the regular outputs I had originally installed with the optional large ones. I really can't hear much difference, so maybe that isn't critical in Wayne's circuit design. Or maybe my ears just can't hear the difference.
Although I am not driving headphones, I was reading Dimitri Danyuk's "Build a Fully Balanced Transconductance Preamplifier" in this month's Audio Express. He says "I prefer the sound of transistors with large dies in circuits without overall feedback." So I thought I would replace the regular outputs I had originally installed with the optional large ones. I really can't hear much difference, so maybe that isn't critical in Wayne's circuit design. Or maybe my ears just can't hear the difference.
As a follow up, my comment on large outputs being "less forgiving" it appears that it just needed to settle in I guess, sounding fine now.
Once parts kit arrives, will assemble new board. I was going to replace the"two piece" original set of boards with this, but it's working so well I may just get another case.
Thanks 6l6 for putting this together, and to Mr Pass and Wayne for giving us this. Much appreciated
Russellc
Okay a little surprise for you guys! I was looking at a power supply recently that Pete Millett built using the LM2941T and LM2991T regulators with the 5 pins and I was quite impressed how much better they were than the old 78xx and 79xx regulators. I decided it was time to build another PSU and this time I was going to make it smaller. My new design slides straight into a Hammond 1455T2201 enclosure leaving plenty of room for the BA2018 LineStage PCB. I have attached some pics for your reference. And yes there are SMD components but ones that are easy to solder by hand. Size is just 159mm x 108mm so much smaller than the last one!
Size is just 159mm x 108mm so much smaller than the last one! Attachments
Last edited:
Hmm, the TO-220 chips are not bolted to the heatsinks, and the top side of the transformer has no markings at all. No part number, no indication of primary winding vs secondary winding, no manufacturer's logo.
I'm surprised that you chose trimmer potentiometers in surface mount packages. At least at mouser.com, multiturn SMD trimmers are significantly more expensive than multiturn thru-hole trimmers, and the SMD units aren't any smaller.
_
I'm surprised that you chose trimmer potentiometers in surface mount packages. At least at mouser.com, multiturn SMD trimmers are significantly more expensive than multiturn thru-hole trimmers, and the SMD units aren't any smaller.
_
