I have a 205 cart just need needle replacement. Will jico normal boron tip sas be ok
You mention also sh 100 headshell.. Any other reasonable choice.. I notice they have viscoelastic inside.. I also got a carbon headshell.
The EPC205 with Jico SAS/B is very good, mine is mounted in the SH98 headshell same as yours. It is detailed and very quiet, which I suspect is the microline diamond.
I had my Stanton 881 mounted in the SH100. The SH100 is a very good headshell and well damped. The EPA100 was made by Technics in their heyday when they spent vast $$$ on R&D to make the very best gear.
The SH100 are quite expensive around $100USD plus for used one.
I had my Stanton 881 mounted in the SH100. The SH100 is a very good headshell and well damped. The EPA100 was made by Technics in their heyday when they spent vast $$$ on R&D to make the very best gear.
The SH100 are quite expensive around $100USD plus for used one.
After hearing what the linear can do I would never go back to a pivoted arm. The short extremely stiff arm wand is what it's all about not the tracking error.
My current the linear arm reduced surface noise on one of my noisiest LP significantly.
Even my first linear made mostly from the scrap bin sounded better than my EPA100 in a back to back, bass response was most noticeable.
My current the linear arm reduced surface noise on one of my noisiest LP significantly.
Even my first linear made mostly from the scrap bin sounded better than my EPA100 in a back to back, bass response was most noticeable.
Yes VTF is same as pivot arm although setting VTF on a bearing style LT arm is a little more fiddly as VTF will vary with friction of bearing on rail.
Start reading here for a simple arm. This is the same as the first one I built and works very well for the input and cost. Bearings are important I originally used general bearings and removed the grease 693ZZ will work. I used MR104 then went to AEBC9 for an Abu Garcia finishing reel.
DIY linear tonearm
Start reading here for a simple arm. This is the same as the first one I built and works very well for the input and cost. Bearings are important I originally used general bearings and removed the grease 693ZZ will work. I used MR104 then went to AEBC9 for an Abu Garcia finishing reel.
DIY linear tonearm
is the original felt or has it been replaced?
If it is the original felt and you can hear it rubbing on the counterplate when the turntable is running, there are two problems:
1) has not been well regulated
2) the bracket holding the solenoid has not been properly adjusted
3) the solenoid has problems it is not reactive, does not pull itself and does not release the felt well and must be replaced.
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Thank you for the reply.
It seems like the felt is original, I can't see any traces of it being tampered with. It nearly doesn't fit in its groove due to the thickness, I have to use quite a bit of force to get it in place. The solenoid is working as it should and everything is properly adjusted and works well well with a slimmer felt pad.
Well, but how can you be sure that it is the original felt if you say that with a thinner felt the brake does not scratch? Do you have two brake bands as a spare?
Try to adjust these screws indicated with the red arrows forward or backward (there are slots) so as to slightly move the solenoid.
https://i.postimg.cc/yYqyKYGx/1.jpg
Thank you for the picture and instructions. I have restored two other SP-10MK2s and still have them, so I can easily swap parts if I need to.
The break belt player is a mild disaster, cosmetically. It looked like it was painted by my dog, blindfolded. My dog is talented, but painting is not her strength. Eating my shoes on the other hand... Here she is, after eating my shoes. No sign of remorse.
And here's a close up of the paint job
After serveral days of soaking in the most eco friendly and ineffective paint remover I could find, I understand why it was painted in the first place.
The oxidation of the aluminum is, as you can see, quite bad. I would like to keep the original finish, but I'm not sure I'll be able to find someone who can replicate the original finish way up north in Norway. Should I just get it powder coated and call it a day, or is there an ultimate trick on how to restore the turntable to its former glory?
And here's a close up of the paint job
After serveral days of soaking in the most eco friendly and ineffective paint remover I could find, I understand why it was painted in the first place.
The oxidation of the aluminum is, as you can see, quite bad. I would like to keep the original finish, but I'm not sure I'll be able to find someone who can replicate the original finish way up north in Norway. Should I just get it powder coated and call it a day, or is there an ultimate trick on how to restore the turntable to its former glory?
Attachments
Very bad...
you should brush it by hand to bring it back to the origin because the finishing you see in the photo and disappeared, after brushed you need the final finish with the transparent matte varnish as in origin.
In these days of covid19 having to stay necessarily at home I have also started 2 projects of SP10 II that I want to get the finishing as originally if it where possible.
I would like to get a silver anodization like the new SP 10R but the frame is not pure aluminum but I deduce that it is a composition of several metals called "zamak" and the zamak does not anodize would become all black spots.
the platter I have already refurbished these days
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My SP10 was in ok condition cosmetically except for the dents in the start/stop switch because the DJ at the radio station it came from used a stick to start and stop the TT. When I received it it did not work correctly, all fixed now.
I went a slightly different route, painting the SP10 black. I didn't use any stripper just sanded the chassis with 120grit, primed sanded with 600 wet&dry then some left over chassis black from painting the car.
If you sand it and clean well with a wax and grease remover designed for automotive painting and use an etch primer it should be ok. I used a spray can of etch and surface primer then used a spray gun only for the black but you could spray it with a can if you do many very light coats.
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I went a slightly different route, painting the SP10 black. I didn't use any stripper just sanded the chassis with 120grit, primed sanded with 600 wet&dry then some left over chassis black from painting the car.
If you sand it and clean well with a wax and grease remover designed for automotive painting and use an etch primer it should be ok. I used a spray can of etch and surface primer then used a spray gun only for the black but you could spray it with a can if you do many very light coats.
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