Well, it's not a complete and sudden switch.
It's a 90 degrees slow descent. 3rd order have a 180 switch.
In my case, to get a better meshing from my W5 FR and tweeter, I had to switch the polarity on the tweeter. If I kept them in phase, they had some trouble getting along.
I said "you may have to switch the polarity on the tweeter"... The changes would be subtle and hard to pick without a mic.
But with a simulation app like XSim, and a mic, you can predict and see in the real world the effect of switching the polarity on the tweeter.
Well theoretically 1st order passive filter doesn't require to switch the polarity, for example Fostex suggestion of first order filter is never with switched tweeter polarity, one thing that I learn in my experience is the quality of the capacitor, in this simple filter must be an audiophile quality.
Normally a medium cap quality introduce around -45° out of phase. This is due to the time taken to charge the plates of the capacitor as the input voltage changes, resulting in the output voltage (the voltage across the capacitor) “lagging” behind that of the input signal. The higher the input frequency applied to the filter the more the capacitor lags and the circuit becomes more and more “out of phase”, so the use of Audiophile capacitor reduce the charging time of the plates with consequently faster response...all the best
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Yah, sorry - I tried to be fancy and post the pictures using the URL route. But clearly I could not pull it off correctly.Sweet... but the pictures don't show up
Here goes - pictures belonging to post #2759
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A friend of mine finished a set of TABAQs this weekend (with my advice, help and inspiration of course). He used 12mm Pine plywood and Peerless P830987 drivers. The TABAQs are driven with a Pyle TPA3116D2 2 x 40W BT amp. Fortunately we managed to source the drivers and amp just before the corona crises started (and our currency tumbled to junk).
“Incredible! I can listen to this all night long” was his first reaction. Needless to say, he is extremely satisfied with the outcome and the quality of sound. He loves woodworking but this was his first speaker build. He used hardboard outside splines and more screws than needed for a more rugged industrial look. The boxes were finished off with a clear matt polywax sealer.
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Hi there,
very nice build, I like the wood very rustic and I am happy your friend join the club of Tabaq's lovers..

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It is called an outside spline apparently – used for picture frames mostly. I doubt that it is adding anything necessary (strength) here, except the looks....just one question what is what I circle on the top of the enclosure? ....all the best
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Measurements from my listening positionFirst layer with matte black paint done.. starting to look good.. only tested without filter.. I have a dsp available but what freq would I want to lower? View attachment 831628


A very low Q , something like 0.5, centered at 1.5kHz, maybe -4 to -5 dBs.
You want a large soft bell, from 300Hz to 7 kHz.
You want a large soft bell, from 300Hz to 7 kHz.
Where do I find proper folded TABAQ drawings?
Should be this, post 281 😀
TABAQ TL for Tang Band
I don't know if there are updated versions.
Where do I find proper folded TABAQ drawings?
all depends on what driver you going to use, if you look in this thread you will find it.....all the best
Thanks!
There is only one version of the folded version. However you can place the driver in the middle of the front baffle if you want.
You can place the cabinet with the driver facing down, like a table top, if you make some space with feets. Just a few cm works fine.
/Bjørn
You can place the cabinet with the driver facing down, like a table top, if you make some space with feets. Just a few cm works fine.
/Bjørn
There is only one version of the folded version. However you can place the driver in the middle of the front baffle if you want.
You can place the cabinet with the driver facing down, like a table top, if you make some space with feets. Just a few cm works fine.
/Bjørn
Is it a good position for the driver to face down?
Don't understand?
I think Bjørn meant the "vent" can be facing down, if you place the speaker on feet so there's space for the air to exit.
🙂
🙂
I think Bjørn meant the "vent" can be facing down, if you place the speaker on feet so there's space for the air to exit.
🙂
Ahh!

Hi,
just want to say thanks to Bjorn for sharing the Tabaq and show my build of it.
I had some 12mm ply and 19mm MDF, so why not make a pair of Tabaqs.
The front and back is 12mm ply and the rest 19mm MDF. Upper half of the front
I used a router with a roundover bit. The speaker is a Tangband W3-315E and
stuffing 80g of polyester.
just want to say thanks to Bjorn for sharing the Tabaq and show my build of it.
I had some 12mm ply and 19mm MDF, so why not make a pair of Tabaqs.
The front and back is 12mm ply and the rest 19mm MDF. Upper half of the front
I used a router with a roundover bit. The speaker is a Tangband W3-315E and
stuffing 80g of polyester.
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