You need to buy a tweeter with a sealed back chamber.
If not, you will have to make a small chamber to seal it away from the line.
Sealed back chamber tweeters look like this:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Need your and kissabout help again.
Sadly installing the tweeter inside the enclosure is not possible so I have to go for external ones.
Due to my space constraints I can't install the tweeters on top of the speakers so I was thinking to create a long bar for both tweeters and the notches for the main speakers. Do you think it's a good idea or it's better to go with 2 separate enclosures?
Care to comment about the item list attached before I buy?
Cheers
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I mean something like the tweeter box attached, but smaller.
Do I have any size constraints if I build 2 separate enclosures?
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Need your and kissabout help again.
Sadly installing the tweeter inside the enclosure is not possible so I have to go for external ones.
Due to my space constraints I can't install the tweeters on top of the speakers so I was thinking to create a long bar for both tweeters and the notches for the main speakers. Do you think it's a good idea or it's better to go with 2 separate enclosures?
Care to comment about the item list attached before I buy?
Cheers
Hi Cyruz,
In my opinion is not a good idea to put both tweeter together on a long bar, first problem would be no good separation of the two stereo channel and so on, so better put the tweeter on the top of the enclosure, you can make a box or even an open baffle, I put the picture of what I did with other enclosure for FE-206en Fostex, how you can see is a very easy way to build an open baffle but in this case must be a horn tweeter, if you have a dome tweeter need a close box....ciao
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That is really cool
My problem is that there are only a couple of cm on top of the speakers before the TV starts, so I can't put anything on them. The two speakers are separated by the hifi cabinet, so I was thinking to put a bar on top of it (or eventually 2 separated enclosures).
Thanks for the advice! Ciao!
That is really cool
My problem is that there are only a couple of cm on top of the speakers before the TV starts, so I can't put anything on them. The two speakers are separated by the hifi cabinet, so I was thinking to put a bar on top of it (or eventually 2 separated enclosures).
Thanks for the advice! Ciao!
oh I see so really you do not have space, well in this case you do not have option still better do 2 separated enclosures....ciao
You could try to make a small triangle enclosure on the side to put the tweeter.
Put them on the outside edge to time align them a little better, probably better than putting them on the inside of the stereo pair.
But, why can't you put the tweeter on the TABAQ baffle then?
It would solve all your problems?
Just use a plastic cone inside to seal it from the line and woofer.
Put them on the outside edge to time align them a little better, probably better than putting them on the inside of the stereo pair.
But, why can't you put the tweeter on the TABAQ baffle then?
It would solve all your problems?
Just use a plastic cone inside to seal it from the line and woofer.
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Because I already sealed the first box. The build has been kinda complicated, considering it was my first, I don't want to mess up.
One more question, the tweeter (and the 2.2 uf cap) goes before or after the BSC?
Nah, it's fine to just use a small 2.2uF cap. There won't be much interference when listened to it at a typical distance of 1.5+ meters. If for close monitoring, like computer speakers, then yes, we could add an XO to the system.
Last question 1st.
The 2.2uF goes on the tweeter, the BSC goes to the FR driver.
So, you need to separate the lines. You may also find that you need to invert the polarity on the tweeter, See the picture below.
For the tweeter, if you have a hole cutter the size of the hole you need, you could remove the woofer, remove some of the stuffing behind the hole, cut the tweeter hole, add a set of wires and the cap through the woofer hole, then replace the stuffing and then woofer. Unless you have sumo wrestlers hands, you should be able to do it easily since the FR is a 5" driver.
I'd also vacuum to remove the wood dust inside before reassembling.
Last question 1st.
The 2.2uF goes on the tweeter, the BSC goes to the FR driver.
So, you need to separate the lines. You may also find that you need to invert the polarity on the tweeter, See the picture below.
For the tweeter, if you have a hole cutter the size of the hole you need, you could remove the woofer, remove some of the stuffing behind the hole, cut the tweeter hole, add a set of wires and the cap through the woofer hole, then replace the stuffing and then woofer. Unless you have sumo wrestlers hands, you should be able to do it easily since the FR is a 5" driver.
I'd also vacuum to remove the wood dust inside before reassembling.
No sumo hands
D), but considering that I would also need to fit the BSC inside (the coil is quite big) and that the possibility to mess up is high, I will go with the separate boxes solution.I'll keep the two boxes on the hifi cabinet, very near to each speaker (see picture). I'll use the same boxes for the BSC.
Can you expand regarding the tweeter polarity? Why do I need that?
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Those TABAQ do look nice.
Since we don't have the left scale, it is hard to comment. Hopefully it is at 5dB increments.
Try to do a screen grab from your PC next time.
Is that REW graph before or after EQ?
I would lower that hump around 1 to 2kHz. Voices would be more natural that way.
Since we don't have the left scale, it is hard to comment. Hopefully it is at 5dB increments.
Try to do a screen grab from your PC next time.
Is that REW graph before or after EQ?
I would lower that hump around 1 to 2kHz. Voices would be more natural that way.
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No sumo hands
I'll keep the two boxes on the hifi cabinet, very near to each speaker (see picture). I'll use the same boxes for the BSC.
Can you expand regarding the tweeter polarity? Why do I need that?
I'm pretty sure your coil fits in the 5" driver hole!
I just install them on a thin plywood board, and hot blue it to the side of the enclosure, near the drivers.
Adding a single cap is a 1st order pass filter, and will usually flip the phase around, as uneven numbered filters do.
Hi Perceval,
can you please explain "Adding a single cap is a 1st order pass filter, and will usually flip the phase around" ? As far as I know 1st order filter hight pass or low pass doesn't change the phase, but of course I can be wrong....all the best
Well, it's not a complete and sudden switch.
It's a 90 degrees slow descent. 3rd order have a 180 switch.
In my case, to get a better meshing from my W5 FR and tweeter, I had to switch the polarity on the tweeter. If I kept them in phase, they had some trouble getting along.
I said "you may have to switch the polarity on the tweeter"... The changes would be subtle and hard to pick without a mic.
But with a simulation app like XSim, and a mic, you can predict and see in the real world the effect of switching the polarity on the tweeter.
It's a 90 degrees slow descent. 3rd order have a 180 switch.
In my case, to get a better meshing from my W5 FR and tweeter, I had to switch the polarity on the tweeter. If I kept them in phase, they had some trouble getting along.
I said "you may have to switch the polarity on the tweeter"... The changes would be subtle and hard to pick without a mic.
But with a simulation app like XSim, and a mic, you can predict and see in the real world the effect of switching the polarity on the tweeter.
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Another very happy TABAQ owner
A friend of mine finished a set of TABAQs this weekend (with my advice, help and inspiration of course). He used 12mm Pine plywood and Peerless P830987 drivers. The TABAQs are driven with a Pyle TPA3116D2 2 x 40W BT amp. Fortunately we managed to source the drivers and amp just before the corona crises started (and our currency tumbled to junk).
“Incredible! I can listen to this all night long” was his first reaction. Needless to say, he is extremely satisfied with the outcome and the quality of sound. He loves woodworking but this was his first speaker build. He used hardboard outside splines and more screws than needed for a more rugged industrial look. The boxes were finished off with a clear matt polywax sealer.
A friend of mine finished a set of TABAQs this weekend (with my advice, help and inspiration of course). He used 12mm Pine plywood and Peerless P830987 drivers. The TABAQs are driven with a Pyle TPA3116D2 2 x 40W BT amp. Fortunately we managed to source the drivers and amp just before the corona crises started (and our currency tumbled to junk).
“Incredible! I can listen to this all night long” was his first reaction. Needless to say, he is extremely satisfied with the outcome and the quality of sound. He loves woodworking but this was his first speaker build. He used hardboard outside splines and more screws than needed for a more rugged industrial look. The boxes were finished off with a clear matt polywax sealer.