Hi Dosenzorn
Hmm, the value you give let me think that this output impedance won't suit the input the B1K likes to see, 750R way too low as load... Look for anything higher than 10k...
Claude
Hmm, the value you give let me think that this output impedance won't suit the input the B1K likes to see, 750R way too low as load... Look for anything higher than 10k...
Claude
Thanks AnthonyA I appreciate the support.
rnjorge I wasn't sure of the terminal hookup at the pot so I ran those wires long so I would have enough length if needed to correct the connections and could trim later. I placed the lid of the enclosure on last night, without screwing it down to keep the cat hairs out. We have two long haired cats.
I noticed there was a fairly quiet static sound when I adjusted the volume in any direction. I messed around wondering what is was but I didn't realize that it started when I put on the lid. I'm hoping it's those three "too long" wires touching the lid. That's an easy fix! Those wires can be trimmed shorter to not come in contact with the lid. Those three wires are:
the supply from the selector toggle switch to the pot,
the two feeds to the left and right channels from the pot.
It's a little early here so everyone is asleep and I don't want to disturb them even though I'm dying to crank it up 😀.
rnjorge I wasn't sure of the terminal hookup at the pot so I ran those wires long so I would have enough length if needed to correct the connections and could trim later. I placed the lid of the enclosure on last night, without screwing it down to keep the cat hairs out. We have two long haired cats.
I noticed there was a fairly quiet static sound when I adjusted the volume in any direction. I messed around wondering what is was but I didn't realize that it started when I put on the lid. I'm hoping it's those three "too long" wires touching the lid. That's an easy fix! Those wires can be trimmed shorter to not come in contact with the lid. Those three wires are:
the supply from the selector toggle switch to the pot,
the two feeds to the left and right channels from the pot.
It's a little early here so everyone is asleep and I don't want to disturb them even though I'm dying to crank it up 😀.
Congratulations! Now you need an amplifier to go along with the B1 Korg, I suggest the M2X. You get six amplifiers in one, and it goes with the B1 Korg like tonic with gin.
Emphasis added.
Aw man! Now I gotta build the B1 Korg. 😀
Which goes with the M2x like gin with vermouth and olives? That'll be next.
I will remind everyone that the circuit has just small changes to the one
the Korg offered as the example.
Well, this board is full of schematics that never make it beyond the idea stage (no offense intended to anyone - I am quite guilty of this). So taking something from an idea to a realized product is still a wonderful accomplishment.
Thank you elwood625 and ItsAllInMyHead. I do have everything for the M2x and going to start that project later today or tomorrow.
I agree brian92fs Mr. Pass is a humble man.
I agree brian92fs Mr. Pass is a humble man.
I want to add the great job the DiyAudio store did with the complete kit was mistake proof with the PCB packed with all the correct components and the case. So easy for a guy like me with no experience the kit made my first time a great time! There's a song in there somewhere...
substitute of 332 K (33.2K) resistors for 330 K (33K)
can anybody tell me if I would be okay to substitute the 332 K (33.2K) resistors for 330 K (33K) without an appreciable affect on the circuit?
In the build guide Nelson Pass says that values of the passive components are flexible.
so do the drain Caps really need to be 1000 uF or could I get away with less? I'd like to reduce ALL the caps to 10% the values of the build guide if I could and use boutique parts at a reasonable cost
Less is More being my guide but this also suggests that the audio characteristics of components will have a greater effect on the sound of the project
can anybody tell me if I would be okay to substitute the 332 K (33.2K) resistors for 330 K (33K) without an appreciable affect on the circuit?
In the build guide Nelson Pass says that values of the passive components are flexible.
so do the drain Caps really need to be 1000 uF or could I get away with less? I'd like to reduce ALL the caps to 10% the values of the build guide if I could and use boutique parts at a reasonable cost
Less is More being my guide but this also suggests that the audio characteristics of components will have a greater effect on the sound of the project
Should be ok with those resistor values. Make sure the heater current is correct though as you'll red-plate the cathode with too much (= Lower life)
Boutique caps are counterproductive for the power supply filter. Save those for audio chain. Even 'audio grade' is wasted on power supply filtering - I tend towards Panasonic FM low ESR for PSU filter duty.
Less is more - less capacitance on the supply filter = more ripple present after filtering.
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Dear gentlemen,
Do you think we can improve the sound using a regulated linear power supply by replacing the cheap wall-wart?
Musically, yours.
Do you think we can improve the sound using a regulated linear power supply by replacing the cheap wall-wart?
Musically, yours.
Thank you,
I will try and, of course, let you know if this is an improvement...
Have a nice week end
I will try and, of course, let you know if this is an improvement...
Have a nice week end
I will remind everyone that the circuit has just small changes to the one
the Korg offered as the example.
It's the small changes in implementing the circuit that count. Pete Millett's circuit is also basically the Korg circuit but does not sound as good as yours, at least to my ears.
Although you can get his implementation closer in sonic character to yours just by substituting your plate resistor values, your design for the buffers, filament regulation and additional power supply filtering all seem to add to the magic.