Is a repair to a musical instrument appropriate? I rarely repair audio electronics these days, though I build some from scratch.
A musician friend was given a Korean-made Epiphone Les Paul electric guitar that had spent many years slumbering in its case. I heard her play her "new" guitar at a jam, and it sounded harsh and out-of-tune. Tuning it made no difference; it still sounded harsh and out of tune, all over the fretboard, as well as for the open strings.
My friend is not the technical type, but has a very good musical ear, and the harsh out-of-tune sound was driving her nuts. I offered to take a look at the guitar for her, and brought it home.
Often this sort of problem is easily fixed by adjusting the individual string saddles on the bridge - what guitarists call adjusting the intonation of the instrument, so that's the first thing I looked into.
To my surprise, the bridge was already adjusted correctly. Every open string was in tune; every string was in tune (one octave higher) when pressed down on the 12th fret. And yet, the guitar had that harsh, out-of-tune sound, for every chord I played on it, at any position of the neck.
Looking more closely, the open strings were rather high above the fretboard at the 20th fret. And yet, when pressed down there, some buzzes appeared - the action was too low once the strings were fretted up here. Hmm.
This made me suspect the instrument had the wrong neck angle. If you haven't heard the term, the attached image shows the neck angle for a violin. As you can see, the fingerboard (fretboard on a guitar) is not parallel to the body of the instrument, but instead, is glued in at an angle.
This is routine for violins. When archtop guitars arrived, their design followed suit. And when Gibson Corp. designed their Les Paul guitar to mimic the look of their expensive archtop acoustic guitars, part of that involved setting the neck at an angle to the body.
(Leo Fender took a different approach, screwing his necks with four woodscrews onto a flat plank of a body, with zero neck angle. For reasons that continue to baffle me, everybody refers to these as "bolt on necks". They are not; they are screw-on necks!)
A Gibson Les Paul, however, has the neck glued to the body, and changing the neck angle on one requires specialized equipment and skills. Fortunately, an Epiphone Les Paul - the instrument my friend was given - is a different kettle of fish. The neck is a separate piece of wood, held onto the body with four woodscrews, just like crudely-made Fender guitars.
So I took off the neck, cleaned out the surprising amount of crud I found in the neck pocket, and re-installed the neck, with a thin shim placed between neck and body in such a way as to increase the neck angle of the instrument. I also polished the frets with some 0000 steel wool while I was at it, and used some fretboard conditioner on the rosewood fretboard. Finally I cleaned up the nut-slots with my shiny new set of fret-files, freeing up the strings to move smoothly when tuned. No more "ping!" sounds as the strings snagged in the too-tight nut slots.
With the instrument back together, I re-strung it, raised the bridge height to set the action (string height above the fretboard) now that the neck angle was steeper, and was very gratified to hear the instrument now sound in tune all over the fretboard.
The final tweak was to tighten the truss rod a little, to remove the slightly excessive bow in the neck. (There needs to be some bow, called "neck relief", but there was a bit too much.)
The story doesn't have the happy ending I was hoping for; while the guitar now sounded much better, and stayed in tune all over the fretboard, my friend decided it simply sounded too "electric" for her tastes, and decided to go back to her Gretsch electro-acoustic guitar. She will probably give the guitar back to the man who gave it to her, and it will probably go back to slumbering in its case, stuck in an unheated closet somewhere in a cold and draughty house...
But whatever the end of the story, it was immensely satisfying to take an instrument that sounded awful, and with just a few careful adjustments, turn it into one that sounded the way it was supposed to.
I still don't understand exactly why changing the neck angle fixed the harsh out-of-tune sound, though. I'm particularly baffled that the open strings all sounded out of tune when strummed together, even after all of them had been freshly tuned with an accurate tuner.
-Gnobuddy
A musician friend was given a Korean-made Epiphone Les Paul electric guitar that had spent many years slumbering in its case. I heard her play her "new" guitar at a jam, and it sounded harsh and out-of-tune. Tuning it made no difference; it still sounded harsh and out of tune, all over the fretboard, as well as for the open strings.
My friend is not the technical type, but has a very good musical ear, and the harsh out-of-tune sound was driving her nuts. I offered to take a look at the guitar for her, and brought it home.
Often this sort of problem is easily fixed by adjusting the individual string saddles on the bridge - what guitarists call adjusting the intonation of the instrument, so that's the first thing I looked into.
To my surprise, the bridge was already adjusted correctly. Every open string was in tune; every string was in tune (one octave higher) when pressed down on the 12th fret. And yet, the guitar had that harsh, out-of-tune sound, for every chord I played on it, at any position of the neck.
Looking more closely, the open strings were rather high above the fretboard at the 20th fret. And yet, when pressed down there, some buzzes appeared - the action was too low once the strings were fretted up here. Hmm.
This made me suspect the instrument had the wrong neck angle. If you haven't heard the term, the attached image shows the neck angle for a violin. As you can see, the fingerboard (fretboard on a guitar) is not parallel to the body of the instrument, but instead, is glued in at an angle.
This is routine for violins. When archtop guitars arrived, their design followed suit. And when Gibson Corp. designed their Les Paul guitar to mimic the look of their expensive archtop acoustic guitars, part of that involved setting the neck at an angle to the body.
(Leo Fender took a different approach, screwing his necks with four woodscrews onto a flat plank of a body, with zero neck angle. For reasons that continue to baffle me, everybody refers to these as "bolt on necks". They are not; they are screw-on necks!)
A Gibson Les Paul, however, has the neck glued to the body, and changing the neck angle on one requires specialized equipment and skills. Fortunately, an Epiphone Les Paul - the instrument my friend was given - is a different kettle of fish. The neck is a separate piece of wood, held onto the body with four woodscrews, just like crudely-made Fender guitars.
So I took off the neck, cleaned out the surprising amount of crud I found in the neck pocket, and re-installed the neck, with a thin shim placed between neck and body in such a way as to increase the neck angle of the instrument. I also polished the frets with some 0000 steel wool while I was at it, and used some fretboard conditioner on the rosewood fretboard. Finally I cleaned up the nut-slots with my shiny new set of fret-files, freeing up the strings to move smoothly when tuned. No more "ping!" sounds as the strings snagged in the too-tight nut slots.
With the instrument back together, I re-strung it, raised the bridge height to set the action (string height above the fretboard) now that the neck angle was steeper, and was very gratified to hear the instrument now sound in tune all over the fretboard.
The final tweak was to tighten the truss rod a little, to remove the slightly excessive bow in the neck. (There needs to be some bow, called "neck relief", but there was a bit too much.)
The story doesn't have the happy ending I was hoping for; while the guitar now sounded much better, and stayed in tune all over the fretboard, my friend decided it simply sounded too "electric" for her tastes, and decided to go back to her Gretsch electro-acoustic guitar. She will probably give the guitar back to the man who gave it to her, and it will probably go back to slumbering in its case, stuck in an unheated closet somewhere in a cold and draughty house...
But whatever the end of the story, it was immensely satisfying to take an instrument that sounded awful, and with just a few careful adjustments, turn it into one that sounded the way it was supposed to.
I still don't understand exactly why changing the neck angle fixed the harsh out-of-tune sound, though. I'm particularly baffled that the open strings all sounded out of tune when strummed together, even after all of them had been freshly tuned with an accurate tuner.
-Gnobuddy
Attachments
Update to post #443.
1 - VW Polo rear wiper arm replaced successfully. First time, I'll blame poor light, I thought it pulled up to a shoulder. Second time, in better light, I realized no shoulder, turned the nut to remove slack then around 1/4 turn to bed arm onto taper splines. Now I feel bad for blagging a replacement arm from supplier.
2 - Washing machine, removed top cover & front control fascia. Traced wires from door interlock to a PCB. Removed PCB after taking photos of connectors. Burnt track. Wire bridge soldered on. Reassemble. Seems to work now. Don't know what would cause a track to burn (no component nearby).
1 - VW Polo rear wiper arm replaced successfully. First time, I'll blame poor light, I thought it pulled up to a shoulder. Second time, in better light, I realized no shoulder, turned the nut to remove slack then around 1/4 turn to bed arm onto taper splines. Now I feel bad for blagging a replacement arm from supplier.
2 - Washing machine, removed top cover & front control fascia. Traced wires from door interlock to a PCB. Removed PCB after taking photos of connectors. Burnt track. Wire bridge soldered on. Reassemble. Seems to work now. Don't know what would cause a track to burn (no component nearby).
Well, I'm headed to a place I don't really like going to with this computer that I'm on.
As mentioned previously on this thread, it works just fine - after I hit the F1 key about that SMART warning in post.
So, I just picked up a WD 1TB Sata "Blue" from Best Buy, and contemplating the cloning process (something I never did before) from my 120Gig PATA C drive / Win10 to this new drive.
I downloaded "ReflectDLHF.exe" and also read the box's WD suggestion of using "Acronis True image WD Edition" for cloning the drive.
I hate this crap.
As mentioned previously on this thread, it works just fine - after I hit the F1 key about that SMART warning in post.
So, I just picked up a WD 1TB Sata "Blue" from Best Buy, and contemplating the cloning process (something I never did before) from my 120Gig PATA C drive / Win10 to this new drive.
I downloaded "ReflectDLHF.exe" and also read the box's WD suggestion of using "Acronis True image WD Edition" for cloning the drive.
I hate this crap.
This is me ... and it might not be the best way... But I never clone drives. I will start with a clean OS install, do the format and partition from the installer and then copy my files back. I do this because of the risk of files being corrupted in the OS folders and the nightmare that will cause.
To clone or not to clone - I've done both (and used Acronis).
If you have a lot of programs to re-install then cloning is simpler and avoids messing about with keycodes for licensed software.
I still maintain an SSD for the operating system is the way to go.
If you have a lot of programs to re-install then cloning is simpler and avoids messing about with keycodes for licensed software.
I still maintain an SSD for the operating system is the way to go.
Absolutely ... replacing C drive with an SSD (if the mobo doesn't have support for it) is going to bring about huge improvments in performance.
The computer I'm using to write this has a 500gig SSD and no hard drive. Thing runs like a burgler with his pants on fire.
Well, I decided to use the WD/Acronis version of cloning. (when I get the time)
Indeed, I've always done that TIRESOME, TIME-consuming, and AGGRAVATING excersize of MANUALLY re-installing Windows, and numerous other programs.
It leaves me bitchy and tired, sometimes frustrated.
Plus, with Win10, it's particularly aggravating to install legacy and programs not meant to run in Win10 - compatability mode stuff.
I don't want to go through that again.
As was just mentioned, all those key codes/ passwords, etc....... are a PAIN.
So.... I'm gonna try this cloning system.
Oh, and by the way, it seems what I've already read about SSD's is not for me.
Seems they don't hold up as long as a reliable (old school style) WD hard drive.
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Hi Douglas,
I rebuid systems the same way you do. It's a pain, but you end up with a better, more solid system. I will be building some Win98 and XP machines, but I will use an solid state drive for them this time around.
I rebuid systems the same way you do. It's a pain, but you end up with a better, more solid system. I will be building some Win98 and XP machines, but I will use an solid state drive for them this time around.
Well, the one in mine will be three years on January 5. Still good as new.
The first one I installed in 2014 is still going strong in a friends machine.
But I agree that reduced liftetime thing is a real <female dog>.
Really an average of 8 years instead of 10.
It's just so disappointing. LOL.
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I've stayed with Win7 ... it's the last version of Windows you can actually stop from phoning home. It also has the best audio subsystem of any version of Windows.
Since you're dealing with Windows, you might take a gander at "Hiren's Boot CD PE": Hiren's BootCD PE
This is a live, 64-bit Windows PE image. You put it on a USB drive and boot the PC from it (you can put it on a CD if you prefer, and if you can still find a PC with a CD-RW drive.)
Once booted, there are a number of free disc imaging tools you can use to create your disc image, or to restore it.
I recently had to set up 24 brand new computers with Windows 10 and a tonne of other software. I used LazeSoft (one of several disc imaging tools you'll find on the Hiren's CD/USB when you boot it) to make an image from one master PC on which I installed and configured everything by hand; that image was copied to an external SSD hard drive.
For the rest of the machines, I booted from the Hiren's USB, and told Lazesoft where to find my source image (on the external SSD drive), and where to copy it (to the internal SSD drive in the new PC.)
Imaging 24 computers this way took a lot of time, and wasn't a fun experience, but the tools worked flawlessly. All 24 PCs were cloned with no issues.
FWIW - I was recommended Hiren's Boot CD by a friend who works for the IT department at a local college.
In the past, I've also used CloneZilla to perform the same task. CloneZilla is Linux-based (rather than Win10 PE based), which I vastly prefer, but the software appears to have been written by someone who is not a native English speaker. As a result, some of the text prompts can be hard to understand, making the software confusing to use. But there are online tutorials to help.
-Gnobuddy
I do not call anyone holding formal certification an idiot, far from it. You worked for that certificate and you passed exams, therefore it is deservedly yours.wiseoldtech said:
My point is, the path to technical certification should be made accessible to those who cannot attend courses, but study either completely on their own using books, or using online courses. Such people should be offered examinations to ascertain they achieve the required standards for certification. The technology exists, why physical presence in lecture rooms is still mandatory? Why not virtual lecture rooms which eliminate the need to travel and to hire where to live? Why this waste of time and money is still considered necessary?
I cannot understand how you got your valid certification in 3 hours. Exams are usually scheduled.
If this is a suggestion to buy false certification, this is completely out of place.
TriOS had a cancellation... I walked in and wrote it. A fake cert wouldn't take 3 hours, more like 3 minutes. That 3 hours included travel time BTW. I write exams quickly.
I scored a 75% without studying one single thing BTW just being a self-taught geeky kid who landed jobs at IBM, Microsoft, Bell Mobility, Siemens etc.
triOS College | Official Website
EDIT: Whoa! 20 years later and the exam costs 219$ now!
I scored a 75% without studying one single thing BTW just being a self-taught geeky kid who landed jobs at IBM, Microsoft, Bell Mobility, Siemens etc.
triOS College | Official Website
EDIT: Whoa! 20 years later and the exam costs 219$ now!
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This weekend:
Replaced a bad relay in an Apt Holman preamp with a better quality small signal Axicom. Had to make a board to adapt the pinout. The bad relay was causing an intermittent complete dropout of the left channel, and when it worked, was distorted and lower in volume. I measured both channel signals with my 'scope before and after; noticeably poor even after cleaning/burnishing contacts, pristine after replacement. Used it all day yesterday, sounded beautiful.
Also built a replacement Adcom 555 Mk II input board, will test and install it today or tomorrow.
Finished building an experimental MC plug-in card for the Apt designed by another fellow and installed it same time as relay.
Got all of that done because my work on my Levinson 27 took a turn for the worse. I had replaced some bad parts on both channels (it's horrible working on this amp, with its construction!), and got left channel working beautifully, but right channel was dead. The test points are so inaccessible when the unit is assembled unless you make/use a jig to operate the amp with the modules separated from the rest of the chassis. Bottom line is I should have just done that. I slipped with my DMM probe about 1mm, and burned up half a trace. After pulling the module and repairing the trace, I discovered the problem was I had failed to solder one resistor lead, which was dead center in the pad making no contact, so dead circuit. After that I found I had blown out two 1N4148 diodes and TIP127 and possibly other parts in the bias circuit on that section of that side. I am now serving penance by waiting for delivery of more parts, and will have to separate the drivers and output transistors from the boards in order to pull the heat sinks to get access to the bottom of the board.
Why didn't I use the right clip probes??? Why does my wife always ask "are you having fun?" when I start swearing? Why can't I find better swear words than s__t and f__k???
By the way; I am not a professional like many here, but I do appreciate your discussions, and very much appreciate the help several of you, particularly Anatech, have given to me with my projects and increasing my knowledge and abilities. This is an invaluable resource to many. Please continue to have patience with those of us who are not in the business.
Happy New Year to all,
Greg
Replaced a bad relay in an Apt Holman preamp with a better quality small signal Axicom. Had to make a board to adapt the pinout. The bad relay was causing an intermittent complete dropout of the left channel, and when it worked, was distorted and lower in volume. I measured both channel signals with my 'scope before and after; noticeably poor even after cleaning/burnishing contacts, pristine after replacement. Used it all day yesterday, sounded beautiful.
Also built a replacement Adcom 555 Mk II input board, will test and install it today or tomorrow.
Finished building an experimental MC plug-in card for the Apt designed by another fellow and installed it same time as relay.
Got all of that done because my work on my Levinson 27 took a turn for the worse. I had replaced some bad parts on both channels (it's horrible working on this amp, with its construction!), and got left channel working beautifully, but right channel was dead. The test points are so inaccessible when the unit is assembled unless you make/use a jig to operate the amp with the modules separated from the rest of the chassis. Bottom line is I should have just done that. I slipped with my DMM probe about 1mm, and burned up half a trace. After pulling the module and repairing the trace, I discovered the problem was I had failed to solder one resistor lead, which was dead center in the pad making no contact, so dead circuit. After that I found I had blown out two 1N4148 diodes and TIP127 and possibly other parts in the bias circuit on that section of that side. I am now serving penance by waiting for delivery of more parts, and will have to separate the drivers and output transistors from the boards in order to pull the heat sinks to get access to the bottom of the board.
Why didn't I use the right clip probes??? Why does my wife always ask "are you having fun?" when I start swearing? Why can't I find better swear words than s__t and f__k???
By the way; I am not a professional like many here, but I do appreciate your discussions, and very much appreciate the help several of you, particularly Anatech, have given to me with my projects and increasing my knowledge and abilities. This is an invaluable resource to many. Please continue to have patience with those of us who are not in the business.
Happy New Year to all,
Greg
Attachments
Hi Ed,
Just out of curiosity, what subject do you teach?
If you don't take the course, you will be missing a lot of detail type knowledge. Courses are not a waste of time. I guess you are saying that you don't have a reason to exist as a teacher since what you teach is unnecessary and a wast of time. You can't have it both ways, so are you unnecessary?
Still waiting for a response. The main reason you can't just write the exam for many subjects is that your final mark is made up of several tests and often practical challenges. The exam is only a spot check and in no way shows that you know the subject material in it's entirety. That's why you can't just take the easy route and write the exam. As a course instructor, you should know this. In fact, you more than anyone should be able to grasp why you shouldn't be allowed to simply write the exam without all the other testing and direct observation.
I really have to know, what course, if any, do you actually teach?
-Chris
Just out of curiosity, what subject do you teach?
If you don't take the course, you will be missing a lot of detail type knowledge. Courses are not a waste of time. I guess you are saying that you don't have a reason to exist as a teacher since what you teach is unnecessary and a wast of time. You can't have it both ways, so are you unnecessary?
Still waiting for a response. The main reason you can't just write the exam for many subjects is that your final mark is made up of several tests and often practical challenges. The exam is only a spot check and in no way shows that you know the subject material in it's entirety. That's why you can't just take the easy route and write the exam. As a course instructor, you should know this. In fact, you more than anyone should be able to grasp why you shouldn't be allowed to simply write the exam without all the other testing and direct observation.
I really have to know, what course, if any, do you actually teach?
-Chris
On the Holman preamps - the pull-in voltage on the relay becomes weak due to the circuitry involved.
Bad caps, etc., contribute to the issue.
I've done those relay overhauls on them, and gave the relay a bit more "kick" to close.
The Adcom 555's, unless they have the cooling fan option, tend to overheat the driver board.
I had to custom build a small quiet fan system inside, after adding heatsinks to the drivers and doing a restoration on the amp.