You can use the universal PSU, but you'll have a lot of empty PCB space. I'm using the Salas UltraBiB but you can use the super regulator from the store or any other board.
Just use smaller caps on the universal board. Easy.
Using the super reg only makes sense if you are going to not use the onboard regulators., and you'll still need a raw DC PSU anyway...
Making two chassis for the RIAA section doesn't make sense from a grounding standpoint and you'll probably increase overall noise.
codyt - check your PM
Using the super reg only makes sense if you are going to not use the onboard regulators., and you'll still need a raw DC PSU anyway...
Making two chassis for the RIAA section doesn't make sense from a grounding standpoint and you'll probably increase overall noise.
codyt - check your PM
Here are some pics of what I have of the PSU so far. I have not installed the fuse or power button because I don't have a drill bit that large. I have to wait until Monday at work. I added one photo of the RIAA boards in their cases, which will reside in separate cases, which I am not sure is a great idea, but...
Any assistance on how to wire this, I would greatly appreciate it!
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Nice work and another speedy delivery from Hi Fi 2000
Ill be even more impressed when I get something in the box that works 🙂
Ill be even more impressed when I get something in the box that works 🙂
Finally got my PSU put together. Not very pretty but I wanted to build it this way to get me to learn how to use a schematic. Assuming I did it correctly, it’s using Wayne’s PSU schematic.
It puts out about 30.5v which sound right.
I have 90% of the RIAA boards built. Somehow I missed a couple parts on the BOM so I just need those and should have the chassis by the end of the week.
Next, I just need to get a new turntable.
It puts out about 30.5v which sound right.
I have 90% of the RIAA boards built. Somehow I missed a couple parts on the BOM so I just need those and should have the chassis by the end of the week.
Next, I just need to get a new turntable.
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Can I ask what case you used for the PSU and what connector you're going to use to transfer power to the RIA?
Looks neat enough 🙂
It’s the Galaxy 2U 230 x 170. I wanted to use a 1U but my transformer won’t fit.
I plan on using standard XLR connector with Mogami W2534 cable. Mostly just because I have a bunch and can easily make a meter long cable with jacks. I think it should work ok. I’ll let you know.
I plan on using standard XLR connector with Mogami W2534 cable. Mostly just because I have a bunch and can easily make a meter long cable with jacks. I think it should work ok. I’ll let you know.
Question for the Technical bods out there. My turntable has a ground wire that I connected to my Integrated Amp when I was using it. That would connect the turntable to directly to mains earth pin the Amp is plugged into (IEC connection).
If you ran the Pearl from batteries and are running your pre-amp from DC wall wart with no earth cable or connection where would you run the turntable earth or ground to?
If you ran the Pearl from batteries and are running your pre-amp from DC wall wart with no earth cable or connection where would you run the turntable earth or ground to?
No not a Technics. I’m looking at a VPI or maybe a few other TT’s.
Technics does have a special place in my heart though. A large reason I suffer from audiophilia is because of the sweet sound that I heard when I was younger coming from a Technics SL 1200.
Technics does have a special place in my heart though. A large reason I suffer from audiophilia is because of the sweet sound that I heard when I was younger coming from a Technics SL 1200.
Anyone live in Minnesoooota?
A quick search of "Craigslist Technics SP-10" and one of the first results was this.
Are these things really going for $1600???
A quick search of "Craigslist Technics SP-10" and one of the first results was this.
Are these things really going for $1600???
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Slimline 1U with front plate printed to order to match the ACA font and central positioning.
The problem with it is the height restricts your choice of caps quite a bit. However a 5mm standoff placed between top or bottom covers and the chassis is just enough to bring top or bottom lid flush with the front face and give you the height needed to open up your options on caps.
I started going through the BOM spreadsheet updating MFR and parts suppliers no's in preparation for ordering all the bits but found it hadn't saved properly.