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The SLB (Smooth Like Butter) Active Rect/CRC/Cap Mx Class A Power Supply GB

Founder of XSA-Labs
Joined 2012
Paid Member
Try TTA1943Q, same part basically. 327 in stock.

TTA1943(Q) Toshiba | Mouser

Fairchild's NJW's can work well too as long as similar Hfe and current rating. If Hfe s a bit lower, that means the ripple control will be a little less but it will still work quite well.

Q12 can be TTC5200Q:

TTC5200(Q) Toshiba | Mouser
 
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Try TTA1943Q, same part basically. 327 in stock.

TTA1943(Q) Toshiba | Mouser

Fairchild's NJW's can work well too as long as similar Hfe and current rating. If Hfe s a bit lower, that means the ripple control will be a little less but it will still work quite well.

Q12 can be TTC5200Q:

TTC5200(Q) Toshiba | Mouser

Thanks. Order placed and looking forward to putting the SLB PSU together this weekend.
 
Founder of XSA-Labs
Joined 2012
Paid Member
md_Stryker,
Thanks for making the BOM/shopping cart for us. To folks wishing to use this BOM/shopping cart - please save as your own project before modifying it, else stuff gets deleted/changed for everyone clicking on this link.

For All,
As a validity check, the total BOM cost is $90.28. SO if that checksum doesn't pan out, you may need to review it carefully.

Thanks,
X
 
Member
Joined 2014
Paid Member
I received mine also X, thank you!
There was a bit of solder slinging going on last night :)
Just a few parts left to install. I still haven’t decided if I should socket the LT4320’s?

I have one request, PLEASE use blue painters tape when packing. The clear packing tape residue took forever to remove ;)

Cheers,
Vunce
 

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Founder of XSA-Labs
Joined 2012
Paid Member
Sorry about the tape, Vunce. Try mineral spirits paint thinner - comes off in a jiffy. I recently switched to a different brand of packing tape, and I think it probably leaves more residue vs the more expensive version that is silent upon unrolling. You know the screechy sound that comes when you apply packing tape?

Your build is looking good. Thanks for the update.

I soldered the 4320’s direct without using sockets. They are reliable chips not expected to burn out like an opamp.
 
Member
Joined 2014
Paid Member
Thanks for the residue removal tips guys.
Actually, I used WD40 and that works great for removing sticky stuff. Then cleaned the boards well.

I was thinking of socketing the chips not for fear of failure, but to limit the number of LT4320’s I’d have to buy. They can be removed from a unit not being used and re-installed in a currently used amplifier. At almost $10 per chip, they add up quickly.
You guys know how amplifiers seem to multiply like rabbits :D

Vunce
 
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I stayed late at work to start the build. The PCB is beefy! I had to put the big tip on my soldering iron to get the 15kuF caps on because of all the beefy thermal mass.
 

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