FWIW, my response to HD's request without realizing there's more than one page to this thread: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/mult...ts-tired-celestion-ditton-2s.html#post5083610
GM
GM
[urgent] Slot ported version of The Tango
Did you run a XO SIM? You have the 4-ohm version of the RS180 above., but Jeff's original was using the 8-ohm version. Just wondering
Did you run a XO SIM? You have the 4-ohm version of the RS180 above., but Jeff's original was using the 8-ohm version. Just wondering
The rule-of-thumb is to add the distance the flare to the new, larger, vent area [Av] is, so yes assuming you mean the chamfer is a 45 deg. bevel or a 5 mm radius round over.
GM
Hmm okay! And what do I do about the port now? Do I make it shorter by any amount? Or should it not make a big difference? Or if at all, will it be a negative effect? I won't ever be driving them at full power. I set my peak limitter at 5 watts under the RMS and usage for bass is occasional.
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The RS180-4 on more than one site is a 4ohm woofer 😛
Check out diysoundgroup and Parts express their site. 🙂
****, nevermind! I did order the wrong one. I'll have to call the seller to change the woofer to the right one. It's 2 bucks extra.
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^That's a bugger😡 Hope it isn't too late to change your order
I got lucky.the man exchanged the expensive or more expensive eight ohm version and removed the four ohm one. Thankful for that c:
If anyone wants to help me out, I'm open to it.
Have you seen this? Jeff provides a link to his crossover software in his reply Tango DIY Speaker Crossover version - Techtalk Speaker Building, Audio, Video Discussion Forum
??? You're making no sense to me as I confirmed you had the correct answer.
All I know for sure about what you're building is that if you build it like this instead of using a 2" dia. x 7.75" tube, then it will be tuned far enough lower to audibly affect [mid] bass response and if you chamfer it, tuning will be raised a probably inaudible amount and based on stated power usage, chamfering it will be strictly cosmetic.
GM
So basically I keep the 7.75" and chamfer it? Or do I still need to shorten it. I didn't know lower tuning would screw up midbass that much.
I appreciate your contribution of wisdom. C:
Cheers,
Anna
I appreciate your contribution of wisdom. C:
Cheers,
Anna
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No, go back and re-read my original post where it says someone will need to do the math to calculate the correct length vent top plate for an unchamfered vent and of course don't forget to factor in the baffle thickness.
GM
GM
Hi,
Assuming that the figures are correct, the end correction changes from 0.732*r (round port) to 2.227*r (slot port at the bottom). This means, the effective port length is increased by 1.5" due to the nearby cabinet walls. Hence a 6.25" slot port will be required to get the same tuning frequency as a 7.75" round port.
Assuming that the figures are correct, the end correction changes from 0.732*r (round port) to 2.227*r (slot port at the bottom). This means, the effective port length is increased by 1.5" due to the nearby cabinet walls. Hence a 6.25" slot port will be required to get the same tuning frequency as a 7.75" round port.
Okay! I suppose I'm gonna make a back panel with a 7.75" one and a 6.25" one to actually hear the difference. I'm really interested to see how much different it sounds. i'll keep y'all updated. Thanks @GM for the patience, and thanks @Dissi for the calculations c:
Good to see you man! Working on it but I could use some help with the layout. It takes time for the tube of knowledge to snap In my hands. Autism can be good but also clumsy. C:
Do you have the circuit diagram then, I thought this was an unknown. If you don't have it I can think of a person here who I'm pretty sure would be able to work it out for you
Oh cool....so a case of laying it out on a piece of plywood.....what are your thoughts, components glued into place? Or cable straps? Did you mention recessing one side for wiring? I think it might be best, simplest to do that on the component side too.... I mean the wiring
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