I can't afford to have a cloud based system. For one because we have limited data bandwidth on our internet and streaming FLAC would just suck over it.. and I have confidential data I like to keep at home. I like to stream music over the home network to my playing machine which has a custom linux version specificallly for the audiophawl.
Some simple drawings I made. Note that these are WITHOUT the front baffle attached. I extended the length of the totall piece by .42" including the bracing etc.
Pardon me for the watermarks on the Keyshot rendering, and the grainy look. I didn't want to wait two hours to finish the rendering haha and the licence file went missing after windows was reinstalled AGESSSSs ago. I didn't really use Keyshot until now. I did include a solid edge render though.
Pardon me for the watermarks on the Keyshot rendering, and the grainy look. I didn't want to wait two hours to finish the rendering haha and the licence file went missing after windows was reinstalled AGESSSSs ago. I didn't really use Keyshot until now. I did include a solid edge render though.
Attachments
Last edited:
Jim gave me insight on it. I learned from Zeos (Z Reviews) that we should put 'm about 3 feet from a wall.. But this design isn't that powerful and isn't ever gonna see much bass either. Shouldn't be a problem either because I plan to insulate the walls behind my work area with accoustic panels anyway.
I'm waiting for Jim's reply. If he thinks it's fine, I'll go over to metric-a-lizing it, putting in a rabbet in the sides, and making the top and bottom wider according to the rabbets. Eases the assembly and makes it more leak proof and it looks nicer. It also makes it easier to hide the endgrain of the mdf. Since I'll be chambering the sides, I'll need the extra surface area to glue on.
I'm waiting for Jim's reply. If he thinks it's fine, I'll go over to metric-a-lizing it, putting in a rabbet in the sides, and making the top and bottom wider according to the rabbets. Eases the assembly and makes it more leak proof and it looks nicer. It also makes it easier to hide the endgrain of the mdf. Since I'll be chambering the sides, I'll need the extra surface area to glue on.
Probably wise to keep to the original as Jim said, ie port in the back, probably a reason for it, you mentioned phasing, there certainly could be some cancellation with it in the front. Do you need metric figures to have the pieces cut to size? Sounds like it's going to look good. How are you going to finish it?
Very slight difference to the volume, they're usually recessed to minimise diffraction as the edge though, but when you consider how close it is to the edge of the baffle it's not gunna make any difference to my mind. I prefer E-nuts to T-nuts E-Nuts
Or D-nuts, which have a flange, screw into the rear of the baffle
Or D-nuts, which have a flange, screw into the rear of the baffle
Last edited:
Dunno, depends what you mean by construction glue. I used epoxy because it's very strong and pretty much glues anything to anything. The t-nuts hammer home as you know and the outside is smooth, so I doubt any glue would stick well, it's the teeth digging in that stop it twisting, I wouldn't worry about it.
Ha ha,...well if it's just to stop the t-nut pushing out, it should do that ok.....
BTW...I love tango.. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iPTWbcijFnE
BTW...I love tango.. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iPTWbcijFnE
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.