If wanting to go fullrange for movie use (and decent concert sounds with reasonable headroom) and keep a good HF, you can use multiples of drivers; 2, 4, 9, etc. Factors to consider include size of driver vs volume level. And cost. It's better to have too much headroom than too little.
The Twin Towers thread covers a lot of this.
The Twin Towers thread covers a lot of this.
Hi X
1. 8" FR will get you approximately to the SPL necessary for such an application
2. 8" FR results in fairly high and smoothly raising directivity -> less room interaction -> less room treatments
3. 8" FR is easy to implement; an AVR and EQ is all that's needed
Here's the response of the Gradient AX 8 measured by a German online magazine. Very low variance between 0° and 15° which gives you a very consistent response over 30° which is outstanding for any full range driver. And if you're 50+ the huge dip at about 12kHz doesn't have any detrimental effect anymore
Source https://www.lautsprecherbau.de
Waiting for one of these to arrive. Can't believe the HF is really that good.
Got any measurements (distortion, on/off axis behavior)? Markaudio's own measurements are nothing more than sugarcoated marketing material.
Huh? The task is pretty straight forward when you know what your goal is. "analysis paralysis" happens when one builds one speaker kit after another with totally unknown performance characteristics. This helps the guys selling drivers and kits but certainly not the enthusiast that simply wants good sound.
pnix - actually, I was thinking of the confusion that the avalanche of helpful advice and technical jargon that often befalls a newbie posting an innocent inquiry such as that opening this thread.
Not the least of the contributing factors being the dogmatic imposition of absolute goals or performance standards on which there may not be consensus even among the cognoscenti, and that in any case quite simply might not be attainable /affordable in every situation.
One certainly doesn't need to build dozens of pairs of speakers, or buy every amp / DAC touted by forum gurus to experience this - a visit to any of the few remaining brick and mortar shops where pedigreed products with independently verified performance measurements can be demoed and compared can deliver that in spades.
Not the least of the contributing factors being the dogmatic imposition of absolute goals or performance standards on which there may not be consensus even among the cognoscenti, and that in any case quite simply might not be attainable /affordable in every situation.
One certainly doesn't need to build dozens of pairs of speakers, or buy every amp / DAC touted by forum gurus to experience this - a visit to any of the few remaining brick and mortar shops where pedigreed products with independently verified performance measurements can be demoed and compared can deliver that in spades.
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I'm currently finishing a ported (14L) with TB W5-2143, 90 db 5" full rangers. I liked what I initially heard a few weeks ago without the 2 inch port with an open gap at the top -- that was with a small digital Lepai amp in the garage. Cant wait to bring them inside and take them for a spin with real watts.
cheers...
cheers...
Larry - of the few 8" full rangers that I've actually listened to, I could probably live with the sound of the SEAS Prestige (FA22RCZ) or Alpair 12P -it's the size of the enclosures that some of these big boys need to deliver their full potential that would be a hard sell casa chrisb - particularly in the context of a domestic "HT" or should I say, multi-channel TV system.
Here is a wall mount MLTL for a A7.3 that with a 120Hz BW2 HPF can get 102dB. Still not 105dB at LP but pretty loud.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-range/260758-full-range-wall-home-theater.html#post4028642
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-range/260758-full-range-wall-home-theater.html#post4028642
On paper (Akabak) assuming 13.7 volts to reach 4mm xmax and -12dB/oct Butterworth HPF at 120Hz is applied. It's currently my office speaker at work so can't really crank it up there to measure. This will provide an f3 of 80Hz.
Note that 102dB is 20w more than the rated 20w thermal max, so I wouldn't keep it there more than a few seconds.
Note that 102dB is 20w more than the rated 20w thermal max, so I wouldn't keep it there more than a few seconds.
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Thanks to all who have posted. Interesting reading, although I confess that not all the details, specs and charts are completely understood. I have ruled out using three inch drivers. Eight inch drivers are probably to large and not practical. So, after spending some time online, I have come up with the following possible choices......
1. Mark Audio 7.3 or Pluvia drivers, the latter I think is designed for sealed boxes.
2. Fostex FX120
3. Jordan Eikona.
Of the above choices, my sense is the Jordan's in a sealed box would work best for my application. Yes they are the most expensive, but in the context of a remodel, the extra cost for 5 drivers is not an issue.
The plan is to build 5 boxes of the appropriate size. Three along the front wall where the TV is located for the L, R and C and the rears in the ceiling at or just behind to couch.
If not too much trouble, would be great to hear feedback on which of these drivers (or others of similar size) would work best for my situation.
1. Mark Audio 7.3 or Pluvia drivers, the latter I think is designed for sealed boxes.
2. Fostex FX120
3. Jordan Eikona.
Of the above choices, my sense is the Jordan's in a sealed box would work best for my application. Yes they are the most expensive, but in the context of a remodel, the extra cost for 5 drivers is not an issue.
The plan is to build 5 boxes of the appropriate size. Three along the front wall where the TV is located for the L, R and C and the rears in the ceiling at or just behind to couch.
If not too much trouble, would be great to hear feedback on which of these drivers (or others of similar size) would work best for my situation.
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