Oh, well. Now you tell me after I just ordered a pair of new TC9FD. 😛
Actually, not sure the TG9FD would work for me. Power handling is very low and impedance is 4 ohm.
The Vifa TG9FD version comes in 4 ohm (Vifa TG9FD10-04) and 8 ohm (Vifa TG9FD10-08) versions, though that last one seems to go (or be) out of production. It (the 8 ohm) is considered to be a better driver than the 4 ohm from all I have read about them. No hands on experience to back that up. Take it for what it is.
It's still listed on Madisound for example:
https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/approx-3-fullrange/peerless-tg9fd10-08-3.5-fiberglass-full-range-8-ohm/
Though similar on first sight it is different from the more widely available 4 ohm driver.
https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/approx-3-fullrange/vifa-tg9fd10-04-3.5-full-range/
Most people don't know the 8 ohm exists I guess. But granted, it isn't very efficient and has limited power handling.
Excellent!..... he wanted to know what the settings were for the subwoofer.
The sub was off.

Woofers on way from PE....plywood shopping next. Then I need to go through my pile of coils and caps to see if I already have any I need, order any other remaining parts.
I have a crossover question, but need to recharge batteries for camera first, so I can post pic of drawn crossover. Concerns the Woofer (not tweeter) trap circuit spoken of in one of John's posts.
Russellc
I have a crossover question, but need to recharge batteries for camera first, so I can post pic of drawn crossover. Concerns the Woofer (not tweeter) trap circuit spoken of in one of John's posts.
Russellc
Mine came yesterday, ( tweeter) nice little looking unit!
Russellc
Just got the woofers delivered...
Russellc
Almost. Need a few more bits and cut wood. Unless I can find someone with a plunge router I will need to buy one, hate to mount the woofers not inset. Seems like I read in this thread these speakers were sensitive to that?
Russellc
Russellc
Which woofers do you have? The Peerless don't need to be countersunk. The GRS, it could help a little.
Getting the tweeter flush is a good idea. Or putting felt around it. Be sure to give the tweeter backside plenty of air so it can fart in freedom. 😀
Getting the tweeter flush is a good idea. Or putting felt around it. Be sure to give the tweeter backside plenty of air so it can fart in freedom. 😀
I just by luck happened to have the front panel thickness the same as the driver chassis frame depth.Almost. Need a few more bits and cut wood. Unless I can find someone with a plunge router I will need to buy one, hate to mount the woofers not inset. Seems like I read in this thread these speakers were sensitive to that?
Russellc
I glued and screwed a second panel behind the front, over almost the whole front panel. Extra thickness gives extra stiffness since where the driver is can't be battened nor braced.
The front panel had a hole to fit the OD of the driver.
The second panel had a hole to match the driver's required mounting.
Now I had an inset driver before I even knew a router existed (way back in 1972).
Which woofers do you have? The Peerless don't need to be countersunk. The GRS, it could help a little.
Getting the tweeter flush is a good idea. Or putting felt around it. Be sure to give the tweeter backside plenty of air so it can fart in freedom. 😀
They are the GRS for the Ultra build.
Russellc
I just by luck happened to have the front panel thickness the same as the driver chassis frame depth.
I glued and screwed a second panel behind the front, over almost the whole front panel. Extra thickness gives extra stiffness since where the driver is can't be battened nor braced.
The front panel had a hole to fit the OD of the driver.
The second panel had a hole to match the driver's required mounting.
Now I had an inset driver before I even knew a router existed (way back in 1972).
I thought of that, and may still do it like that. I would still like the router, so I can use a circle jig I have around here somewhere. but any router would do...
Russellc
When I built the Ultras with GRS woofers, I did not countersink. But it wouldn't hurt to do so, for sure.
When I built the Ultras with GRS woofers, I did not countersink. But it wouldn't hurt to do so, for sure.
Well, I guess I could just cut as round a hole as I can using sabre saw, edge of driver would hide any slight out of true places. Then later cut out a countersink using circle jig, or just cut hole to outside diameter in a piece to be used for faceplate as Andrew suggests.
Russellc
Is the double GRS version design/crossover public?
I am about to embark on the Ultra build and am wondering if double might be the way to go?
I am about to embark on the Ultra build and am wondering if double might be the way to go?
The double GRS crossover is not public, but it isn't much different.
When I built mine, it was quickly obvious that the little 3" Vifa could not keep up with the two 15" woofers. So it was kinda a no-go. I did put a pair of 1960s vintage 8" fullrange in there and used them for party speakers. When I moved back to Hawaii I gave them to a friend for his living room. He loves them!
I bet that little 4" Faital Pro could fill the ticket for not much money. Just don't know how it sounds at the top end. Since you can get 4 of the GRS 15s for about $100 total to your door, it's worth playing with.
When I built mine, it was quickly obvious that the little 3" Vifa could not keep up with the two 15" woofers. So it was kinda a no-go. I did put a pair of 1960s vintage 8" fullrange in there and used them for party speakers. When I moved back to Hawaii I gave them to a friend for his living room. He loves them!
I bet that little 4" Faital Pro could fill the ticket for not much money. Just don't know how it sounds at the top end. Since you can get 4 of the GRS 15s for about $100 total to your door, it's worth playing with.

The double GRS crossover is not public, but it isn't much different.
When I built mine, it was quickly obvious that the little 3" Vifa could not keep up with the two 15" woofers. So it was kinda a no-go. I did put a pair of 1960s vintage 8" fullrange in there and used them for party speakers. When I moved back to Hawaii I gave them to a friend for his living room. He loves them!
I bet that little 4" Faital Pro could fill the ticket for not much money. Just don't know how it sounds at the top end. Since you can get 4 of the GRS 15s for about $100 total to your door, it's worth playing with.![]()
I was noticing in the latest catalog Parts Express sent that they have a 6.5 inch full range that is fairly reasonable, of course it would need a crossover to match it to the woofers, but its efficiency appears to be about right...well the published efficiency.
Well, sort of reasonable....http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-ps180-8-6-1-2-point-source-full-range-neo-driver--295-344....sort of a waste of its bass end, I will keep looking.
Russellc
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I have not heard that driver yet. Saw them when I was at P.E. but did not hear it. Looks very well built.
The Vifa TG9FD version comes in 4 ohm (Vifa TG9FD10-04) and 8 ohm (Vifa TG9FD10-08) versions, though that last one seems to go (or be) out of production. It (the 8 ohm) is considered to be a better driver than the 4 ohm from all I have read about them. No hands on experience to back that up. Take it for what it is.
It's still listed on Madisound for example:
https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/approx-3-fullrange/peerless-tg9fd10-08-3.5-fiberglass-full-range-8-ohm/
Though similar on first sight it is different from the more widely available 4 ohm driver.
https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/approx-3-fullrange/vifa-tg9fd10-04-3.5-full-range/
Most people don't know the 8 ohm exists I guess. But granted, it isn't very efficient and has limited power handling.
Great info!
Has anyone tried this? I've read that the TG9 is better in the highs than the TC9. Color-wise, it would also fit well with my white baffles 😛
I've been looking for improved trebbles. The highs aren't as crisp and bright as some good tweeters. I don't like adding a driver to the current design, so I've tried tweaking R1. Originally, I had 8 ohms. Now I've added a 6 ohms resistor in parallel, to get some highs back. Effectively I've got 3.4 ohms now. It's got much more detail now; I can hear singers breathe, chairs moving and all else background noise during the original recordings. But it might be a little too harsh now, so I wonder what the TG9 would do. Open to suggestions!
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