So I just solder the two mini regs in, get some wires to them from v+ and remove L9 and L5?
Just verifying before I do anything stupid. Please note that I use the crystal and not the tent labs clock
Why don t we use a minireg for V2 too?
Thanks a again.
Right.
Take care on miniregs position too. small white square on minireg and pcb board.
For V2 you need an regulator capable to deliver at least continuous 100mA. For minireg dissipating 300mW is too much.
For V1 you need to take 150mA peaks due laser operation and auto-gain on CD-RW.
As you noticed, now Shiga MKII is able to read the most demanding CD-RW and scratched CD-R, but will eat a little more current than MKI.
Regards,
Tibi
Take care on miniregs position too. small white square on minireg and pcb board.
For V2 you need an regulator capable to deliver at least continuous 100mA. For minireg dissipating 300mW is too much.
For V1 you need to take 150mA peaks due laser operation and auto-gain on CD-RW.
As you noticed, now Shiga MKII is able to read the most demanding CD-RW and scratched CD-R, but will eat a little more current than MKI.
Regards,
Tibi
Cool thanks. I will report in a bit 🙂
In the meantime, I replaced C8 with my 10nF FT-3 and installed C11.
While there was improvement, I have to say that MK2 is less responsive to those changes than its predecessor. Granted MK2 sounded wonderful even without any of the mods. Perhaps it is the superior layout that already benefits the sound significantly, making all other changes less significant comparatively speaking.
Oh and trying to find what is going on with the slow TOC reading, I found in my post #7400 that I had the same problem with MK1 when I experimented with regs. I then solved it by isntalling a decoupling cap right on the entrance of the pcb. Perhaps it is because of my long PSU wiring. I will get to that eventually.
In the meantime, killing the LCD's backlight still makes a positive difference 🙂 I am rethinking about my capacitor timing layout again... I will post about it when I clear some details.
In the meantime, I replaced C8 with my 10nF FT-3 and installed C11.
While there was improvement, I have to say that MK2 is less responsive to those changes than its predecessor. Granted MK2 sounded wonderful even without any of the mods. Perhaps it is the superior layout that already benefits the sound significantly, making all other changes less significant comparatively speaking.
Oh and trying to find what is going on with the slow TOC reading, I found in my post #7400 that I had the same problem with MK1 when I experimented with regs. I then solved it by isntalling a decoupling cap right on the entrance of the pcb. Perhaps it is because of my long PSU wiring. I will get to that eventually.
In the meantime, killing the LCD's backlight still makes a positive difference 🙂 I am rethinking about my capacitor timing layout again... I will post about it when I clear some details.
I just finished installing the miniregs. No technical problems at all.
The difference is quite audible. Mostly into spatial information and articulation in mids. I really liked how more secondary piano notes can now be clearly heard filling in between the main piano theme. I will have to wait a few hours before I can make more tests with more complex music, but overall it is a nice step up 🙂
Tibi you got any suggestions on what miniregs to use on V1 and V2? I think Erik vouched for the Teddys
The difference is quite audible. Mostly into spatial information and articulation in mids. I really liked how more secondary piano notes can now be clearly heard filling in between the main piano theme. I will have to wait a few hours before I can make more tests with more complex music, but overall it is a nice step up 🙂
Tibi you got any suggestions on what miniregs to use on V1 and V2? I think Erik vouched for the Teddys
Thank you, dimkasta !
Now give him 300 hours burn-in.
For V1 and V2 I would suggest Belesson super-regulators or new Burson.
Teddys may be a good choice as well, but not tested by me yet.
Regards,
Tibi
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In what way would it make sense to split the Vs into two separate transformers?
Keep one for motors, and one for V1-V4? Or would it make sense to give one of the Vs its separate transformer?
Keep one for motors, and one for V1-V4? Or would it make sense to give one of the Vs its separate transformer?
Anyhow you need to power V1 and V2 regulators from a separate PS. None of the super-regulators is LDO, so you need a higher voltage 10-12V to feed them.
Regards,
Tibi
Yes.
V1=V2=V3=V4=5V
Allowed voltage, for very good performance, is in 4.8 - 5.3V range.
I recall, V1 must me equal with V2, same for V3 and V4.
So, if you have a regulator V1 = 5.2V and V2 = 4.9V, than your Shiga MKII will not work. Keep |V1-V2| difference under 100mV for best performance.
Regards,
Tibi
Hello Tibi,
So if I want to use the Belesson Super Regulators for V1, and V2, should I get the SPM Mini that's capable of 225ma, or the standard 500ma regulator? Then, I'll need a 10v tranfo, and rectifier? Which I can mount in the power supply, which I will make separate and connect with a shot umbilical. Is this all I'll need? Thank you very much.
Tony G.
Helo again,
I forgot to ask , is it the LM78XX/LM341 package that we need? Or the LM317/LM1117? Thanks again.
I forgot to ask , is it the LM78XX/LM341 package that we need? Or the LM317/LM1117? Thanks again.
OK there is definitely something wrong.
The bridge chip is running hot. There seems to be some random resets sometimes when the cd breaks, for example when hitting stop.
And after a while on some sacds it seems to be trying forever to read toc.
Any suggestions?
I will try to rebuild the PSU tomorrow with some not so low ESR caps, in case the FRs are creating any oscillations on the 7808, although I see it running only at ~40 degrees C.
For now the main suspect is the low amperage diodes (1N4007) I am currently using. Although they do not run warm.
The bridge chip is running hot. There seems to be some random resets sometimes when the cd breaks, for example when hitting stop.
And after a while on some sacds it seems to be trying forever to read toc.
Any suggestions?
I will try to rebuild the PSU tomorrow with some not so low ESR caps, in case the FRs are creating any oscillations on the 7808, although I see it running only at ~40 degrees C.
For now the main suspect is the low amperage diodes (1N4007) I am currently using. Although they do not run warm.
Yep that was it... It seems that the small diodes could not provide the increased current needed by MK2. MSR860 to the rescue 🙂
It s too late to do any listening now so tomorrow...
It s too late to do any listening now so tomorrow...
Go for standard + trafo 10Vac. + rectifier + filtercap min 3300uF. If you go for bridge rectification Shindengen are one the best.
Regards,
Tibi
Regards
Please be more specific, what you have done to get such performance ? 😀
Regards,
Tibi
No not yet.
TBH I am not convinced to pay 50 euros for a 317 circuit. I need some more time to read
TBH I am not convinced to pay 50 euros for a 317 circuit. I need some more time to read
Hi Tibi,
That sounds like a very nice modification. I will give this a try and post my results...I promise not to go for Duelund 😀
Thanks Again for the research.😉
Regards
Erik