any thoughts on this as a supply?I do need to add a 15v-15v preamp so I thought it might work and I can add some fan cooling too. LCD universal power board 37 42"Gm instead of 5VSB 5V 12V 24V lowest price Good service Spot sales Quality ok-in Electronics Stocks from Electronic Components & Supplies on Aliexpress.com
here are some specs
24V-10-14A
12V-3-5A
5V-4-5.5A
5VSB-1-1.5A
here are some specs
24V-10-14A
12V-3-5A
5V-4-5.5A
5VSB-1-1.5A
Take a look at The Wiki, which is a consolidated version of much of the info in this thread.
Same speakers as me. 🙂 You might be interested in this thread: Alpair 7.3 Impedance (for class d amp LP filter)?
The output filter is "tuned" to the impedance at higher frequencies. The MA A7.3 is a little over 10 ohms at 20 kHz. In the other thread I linked, treating the A7 as 6 or 8 ohms was suggested... I'm leaning towards calling them 8 ohms myself, but that's not for any technical reason. Experimentation is probably the best way to go.
A few links from the wiki that are relevant:
Understanding output filters for Class-D amplifiers | EE Times
Match Your Output Filter to Your Speakers - All Boards Welcome
Class D Audio Amplifiers: What, Why, and How By Eric Gaalaas
Hope that helps. Please let us (or at least me!) know what you end up with and how it sounds.
Thanks - plenty more reading to do then !
Mine are the original 1st Gen Alp 7 so I'll have to dig out the spec sheet to check the impedance at 20kHz (may be different to the 7.3).
Intend to post back with pictures and listening impressions once I fully butchered the board !
Anyone have any experience with Sagami Inductors? They have a whole line dedicated to "Leaded Inductors for Class D". The parts that start with "7G" look appropriate (low DCR, high current, shielded). In particular, I thought this 7G14A might be appropriate for the tpa3116 output filter. They even provide a graph of inductance versus current. They say they use flat wire (like the Coilcraft).
They look like they might be easier and cleaner to mount on the YJ blue/black board than the CC inductors.
Here's one place to buy them... never ordered from them, just found them via Google search. Looks like Mouser and Digi-Key don't carry this brand.
They look like they might be easier and cleaner to mount on the YJ blue/black board than the CC inductors.
Here's one place to buy them... never ordered from them, just found them via Google search. Looks like Mouser and Digi-Key don't carry this brand.
I think I will stay with the brick for now,one more question,can I wire this betwwen the power chord and the brick to use as a on-off switch On Off on 3 Terminal 3 Position SPST Toggle Switch AC 250V 10A 125V 15A | eBay
KJA 2013: While waiting for my new inductors and Jupiter input caps to arrive, I set up my TPA3116 for switchable gain (20dB, 26dB & 32db) and for testing different values of input coupling caps (from .5uF to 10uF).
KJA, how did you set up the switachable gain? I would like to try that... Like four pairs of resistors with a selector switch to pick each pair wired into the board where the resistors normally go?
and then just turn off board, select gain pairs, then turn back on?
Is that doable? or will leads to/from the switch and other resistors pick up unwanted noise?
Or is that a pot I see attached right to board? You dial that in with a meter for each setting?
switchable gain via dip switches or selector seems like it would be useful for me...
but of course I guess you would also need to change caps as well on the inputs so as to have proper bass...
KJA, how did you set up the switachable gain? I would like to try that... Like four pairs of resistors with a selector switch to pick each pair wired into the board where the resistors normally go?
and then just turn off board, select gain pairs, then turn back on?
Is that doable? or will leads to/from the switch and other resistors pick up unwanted noise?
Or is that a pot I see attached right to board? You dial that in with a meter for each setting?
switchable gain via dip switches or selector seems like it would be useful for me...
but of course I guess you would also need to change caps as well on the inputs so as to have proper bass...
No I dont have a Zobel Filter
I'm starting to understand I need to be looking at the speakers impedance at high frequencies 15kHz upwards.
Thanks for your help
Are you saying they are exactly the same as ICE Components? I.e., just re-branded/OEM?
Andrew,
I was using a 24v/5a power supply from DTA 100a 2050 amp and with that I noticed my chip heat sink and the inductors were kind of running hot. As per suggestion here I changed it to a 16v 4.5a supply from an old IBM laptop and noticed no real difference in sound and everything runs nice and cool now.
But of course YMMV.
I was using a 24v/5a power supply from DTA 100a 2050 amp and with that I noticed my chip heat sink and the inductors were kind of running hot. As per suggestion here I changed it to a 16v 4.5a supply from an old IBM laptop and noticed no real difference in sound and everything runs nice and cool now.
But of course YMMV.
I believe so, one of data-app IR says order here or here, 1 is Sagami other is Mouser icecomponent
I'm not sure I would draw the same same conclusion from that. Couldn't it simply be that the document you cite is suggesting they are simply similar, but not necessarily the exact same? As in, "Here are two examples of appropriate output filter inductors"?
Here's the specs for Sagami 7G14A
Here's the specs for ICEComponents 1D14A
Interesting, is that the part numbers are the same, except for the first two characters ("7G" versus "1D"). But, at least for the 22uH part (xx14A-220M), the specs are very close, but not exactly the same. I would think that if it was an OEM/re-branding scenario, the specs would be identical. Maybe not?
If inductors run hotter same SPL I guess they have harder time "returning" "charge" to powersupply??? 2050 amp would do the same I guess, that's strange for a powersupply delivered with class D amp. Or the Tpa produces more outside audioband highfreq with (dta) 24V ???
Seems flatwire versus roundwire version?? at least TH wires Icecomp version I have are round!! All specs could be different way of measuring LOL roomtemp 20 or 30 eg.
Other Sagamis have round wires, so the rest do look the same.
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can I wire this betwwen the power chord and the brick to use as a on-off switch http://www.ebay.com/itm/310884251780
Yes, the setup allows you to quickly change the input caps as well. Switch #1 is for 100K or open. Switch #2 for choosing between 20K and 39K (the trimpot was temporary until I found a 39K. The two switches allow you to choose between 20, 26 & 32dB of gain. You make your selection with the power off and the gain is set on turn-on. Any noise issues are miniscule and not a concern for doing gain performance comparisons. It would have been really easy to layout the board with a set of jumpers.
Most people just leave the amp on or unplug the AC power. (or use the switch on a power bar)
That switch will work.
However.
I would be cautious buying a switch that is a SPDT (center off) that is labeled as:
"ON/OFF/ON 3 Terminal 3 Position SPST Toggle Switch AC 250V/10A 125V/15A"
But that is just me.
🙂