Incidentally I just bought 4 modules from Hiamplifier (who has posted in this thread too btw) and am running some early tests. He's been very good at answering any questions and providing any info I've asked for, I can definitely recommend him as a seller. I bought completed modules though.
yeah, I got a YJ blue board from him and it includes a nice little cable. And ALSO, he sent along resistors for gain adjustment. I thought this was a very nice inclusion.
I also have some of his $35 3116 boards. Haven't messed with them much due to their very compact size. I mean they are like 2" square.
I was going to try and use them for a sub in a 2.1 or as dual mono blocks.
He has been very helpful with documentation and all.
I like buying from him better than YJ direct for this reason.
19$ for board and 6$ shipped to US seems very fair.
I also have some of his $35 3116 boards. Haven't messed with them much due to their very compact size. I mean they are like 2" square.
I was going to try and use them for a sub in a 2.1 or as dual mono blocks.
He has been very helpful with documentation and all.
I like buying from him better than YJ direct for this reason.
19$ for board and 6$ shipped to US seems very fair.
I bought four of the $35 ones (his own design) to follow the Najda DSP (highly recommended btw), driving the full rangers and woofers of my own OB speaker. It's the tiny thing on the left in this picture 
(This is just a test bed, I will obviously take more care with cable routing, lengths and such when actually building stuff together )
(This is just a test bed, I will obviously take more care with cable routing, lengths and such when actually building stuff together
)Attachments
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The brand of stock inductors doesn't really matter, these YJ boards come with cheap, unsuitable inductors just as the rest of the TPA3116 boards he have seem. If you want the best sound you should replace these. Class D boards from China have a long tradition of coming with unsuitable inductors. At page 68 I have replaced the stock inductors with micrometals T-60-2 woud with litz wire. I would pick inductors with current rating above 8a that can handle atleast 1Mhz. Some people reported that coppercraft ones are better than wurth, KJA2013 and Saturnus uponICE inductors as the real deal. I think everyone agrees that by replacing these with better, suitable inductors brings you a big improvement in sound, bigger than replacing input caps.
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I used the Bourns inductors recommended by user Rhing in his BOM and found that they made a really significant difference in the sound of the YJ board. Probably the biggest audible difference of all the mods I did so far.
digikey: 2100HT-100-V-RC-ND
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digikey: 2100HT-100-V-RC-ND
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Right, it was mostly out of curiosity.
I just went through this whole thread a second time, taking notes as I went. I made a table of all the inductor replacements that were suggested. I was just curious how the stock ones specs compared to the better ones that have been recommended.
I am always curious about the amount of current that this 3116 can deliver in reality and could find any information. May I ask based on what you suggest a minimum current rating of 8A for the inductor?
Regards,
TI datasheet says 7.5 amp is max for most potent versions of this chip befor protection trips (+/- xx%). Application sheets say to mount inductors stable at at least this value....I agree if you want max performance of chip you need parts that all do at least a little better. This doesn't mean all parts that do better sound the same, unfortunately. And I asked earlier if a part that deviates from rated value 10% at max of this chip (meaning chip will have 30%+ distortion) if that would matter much...when main system distorts 30% at 7.5 amp does 10% lower inductance from used inductors count very much?
Inductors that are not parallel to groundplane also do better then inductors that are.......so how do most shielded inductors look like?...
...unfortunately most are parallel to pcb board, some are not..like the inductors I use from Wurths, they are not..other from same brand are.. This could in part be a reason why the unshielded Miller inductors sound better (Miller was bought by Bourns, so they are called Bourns now).
Yes, this was by Ramp3 and in this post: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/class-d/237086-tpa3116d2-amp-257.html#post3877047
It is a 3 amp linear PS with a miniDSP and two Ybdz amps. A good setup, and I have something similar but use a single 19v SMPS from a laptop on both amps.
Just plugged in the red YJ board (50w+50w) with a 19v 6 amp power brick.
The sound is good, surprisingly good. Well not surprised - so many of you have already been discussing this small wonder, but definitely impressed. And now the discussion has moved beyond the red boards to other ones and mods that result in even better sound... have to catch up!
Amazing value - thanks folks for starting the discussion and keeping it hot!
I have a 6 channel red board waiting to get paired to a 5.1 preamp for HT.
The sound is good, surprisingly good. Well not surprised
- so many of you have already been discussing this small wonder, but definitely impressed. And now the discussion has moved beyond the red boards to other ones and mods that result in even better sound... have to catch up! Amazing value - thanks folks for starting the discussion and keeping it hot!
I have a 6 channel red board waiting to get paired to a 5.1 preamp for HT.
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My method:
Use a sharp bladed knife to put slight upward pressure on the inductor and heat each side alternately.
Do not rush.
After 30 seconds (or if you feel the board getting too hot) stop and let everything cool for a few minutes...then resume.
Good luck
Audiobah TPA3116D2 input transformer connection points
For anyone interested in adding input transformers (or bypassing the stock input caps) to the Audiobah AC1308 amplifier pcb, you need to remove C15, C16, C18 & C7. The connection pads nearest the heat sink for each of these components are the balanced audio inputs to the TPA3116D2 chip.
C15 = R+
C16 = R-
C18 = L+
C7 = L-
For anyone interested in adding input transformers (or bypassing the stock input caps) to the Audiobah AC1308 amplifier pcb, you need to remove C15, C16, C18 & C7. The connection pads nearest the heat sink for each of these components are the balanced audio inputs to the TPA3116D2 chip.
C15 = R+
C16 = R-
C18 = L+
C7 = L-
Attachments
I thought that even in balanced input operation, the input caps are still used? I suppose in the case of using a balun on the input you do not need it to block DC, but doesn't the input cap also help to prevent input oscillation in conjunction with the internal impedance?