titanium tubing suitable?
gaborbela: there can be "too much lightness" . As long as the effective mass of the arm is in the 12-18 gram range, then yes it can be used. If much lighter, than mass needs to be added. This can be accomplished by adding some sort of dampening material to the interior of the tube. Some place I read some one using EAR yellow foam earplugs to dampen an arm tube, to good effect. You may still need to add more mass to it.
If using the Dual carbon fibre headshell, you will need to duplicate the arm geometry that it came from or cut it and alter the angle and then glue or repair it. I just found one of these in my office (and pulled it apart). The cartridge wire can be easily puled out along with the square plug that is in the headshell. Then it should be easy enough to run tonearm wire down the complete armtube and exit where you wish.
gaborbela: there can be "too much lightness" . As long as the effective mass of the arm is in the 12-18 gram range, then yes it can be used. If much lighter, than mass needs to be added. This can be accomplished by adding some sort of dampening material to the interior of the tube. Some place I read some one using EAR yellow foam earplugs to dampen an arm tube, to good effect. You may still need to add more mass to it.
If using the Dual carbon fibre headshell, you will need to duplicate the arm geometry that it came from or cut it and alter the angle and then glue or repair it. I just found one of these in my office (and pulled it apart). The cartridge wire can be easily puled out along with the square plug that is in the headshell. Then it should be easy enough to run tonearm wire down the complete armtube and exit where you wish.
Hello
If I seal both end I can use oil for dumping it I have to ad more weight.
The weight of the tube 38G/meter.
That is around (minimum) what you wrote, I don't think it will be to light, com pare to the Dual aluminium thin arm these 0.4mm thick and titanium heavier than the aluminium.
Unfortunately that head shell getting very expensive. Very rare, I must get one if I want to test these tube.
That feet the tube nicely.
I bid 10 Sterling but I was out bid right away.
I must get these if I want to use that pipe. These for 5mm but I can enlarge the hole a bit.
Take a look at the pictures
Thanks for the advise🙂
Greetings Gabor
If I seal both end I can use oil for dumping it I have to ad more weight.
The weight of the tube 38G/meter.
That is around (minimum) what you wrote, I don't think it will be to light, com pare to the Dual aluminium thin arm these 0.4mm thick and titanium heavier than the aluminium.
Unfortunately that head shell getting very expensive. Very rare, I must get one if I want to test these tube.
That feet the tube nicely.
I bid 10 Sterling but I was out bid right away.
I must get these if I want to use that pipe. These for 5mm but I can enlarge the hole a bit.
Take a look at the pictures
Thanks for the advise🙂
Greetings Gabor
Attachments
If I had another, I'd sell you mine...unfortunately belongs to a CS5000 that I would like to get up and running.
Hello Nanook
Thank you
I must buy these, now I put 16.5 Sterling..I'm the highest bidder.
Greetings Gabor
Thank you
I must buy these, now I put 16.5 Sterling..I'm the highest bidder.
Greetings Gabor
Hello
I didn't knew these belong to the CS5000.
Even the guy who advertise wrote belong to 505 but it can't be because I have a 505 type II total different.
Now I understand why so rare these head shell.
With these I can use that titanium pipe and I can connect direct the wires to the cartridge.
I know it will be a lot of work to resolve the suspension counter weight etc.
I sow many TT use some type of wire , plastic or other methods to hook up the arm (air bearing) instead bearing suspension.
I have to do my home work to found out more about that.
There is someone on the Ebay sell wood tonearm made out cherry wood and he use a neal or something - cost over $200.
Greetings Gabor
I didn't knew these belong to the CS5000.
Even the guy who advertise wrote belong to 505 but it can't be because I have a 505 type II total different.
Now I understand why so rare these head shell.
With these I can use that titanium pipe and I can connect direct the wires to the cartridge.
I know it will be a lot of work to resolve the suspension counter weight etc.
I sow many TT use some type of wire , plastic or other methods to hook up the arm (air bearing) instead bearing suspension.
I have to do my home work to found out more about that.
There is someone on the Ebay sell wood tonearm made out cherry wood and he use a neal or something - cost over $200.
Greetings Gabor
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oops
I think your idea is good regarding the tonearm. What turntable are you restoring?
The one listed on EPay is correct. The one for the CS5000 is different. I'll take a picture and attach it or post it later.Hello
I didn't knew these belong to the CS5000.
Even the guy who advertise wrote belong to 505 but it can't be because I have a 505 type II total different.
Now I understand why so rare these head shell.
It is much better to make a single run all he way to your phono input on your receiver/integrated amp/phono stage, or preamp. Use a single run of 5 ft for each conductor. Terminate with an RCA end for the L and R channels. Include a ground wireWith these I can use that titanium pipe and I can connect direct the wires to the cartridge.I know it will be a lot of work to resolve the suspension counter weight etc.
What "suspension" for the tonearm? Lots of options for tonearm wire.I sow many TT use some type of wire , plastic or other methods to hook up the arm (air bearing) instead bearing suspension.
I have to do my home work to found out more about that.
There is someone on the Ebay sell wood tonearm made out cherry wood and he use a neal or something - cost over $200.
Greetings Gabor
I think your idea is good regarding the tonearm. What turntable are you restoring?
Attachments
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Hello Nannok
If I can get my hand on a Lenco L75 or 78 I would do that.
The Dual 1229 also is a great table, 3.1kg platter the size like the records run smooth, has strobe light, idler drive.
If I can't get a Lenco must get the Dual and I'll build a solid base from Baltic Birch large enough so I can use two arm.
I want on it a 12" arm and I'll see the another. I don't know yet if it worth to do something with the Dual orig tone arm. Specially with the arm suspension.
I have a good Yamaha YP 801BL 9.5" arm. I will have to test it (com pare) to other arms. I must rewire that.
I think I would try similar type of suspension (more simple design, picture attached) something.
I have to do my own research to get some idea.
Greetings Gabor
If I can get my hand on a Lenco L75 or 78 I would do that.
The Dual 1229 also is a great table, 3.1kg platter the size like the records run smooth, has strobe light, idler drive.
If I can't get a Lenco must get the Dual and I'll build a solid base from Baltic Birch large enough so I can use two arm.
I want on it a 12" arm and I'll see the another. I don't know yet if it worth to do something with the Dual orig tone arm. Specially with the arm suspension.
I have a good Yamaha YP 801BL 9.5" arm. I will have to test it (com pare) to other arms. I must rewire that.
I think I would try similar type of suspension (more simple design, picture attached) something.
I have to do my own research to get some idea.
Greetings Gabor
Attachments
"suspension" arm...
gaborbela: I think you would be very surprised at how good Dual idlers can sound. If a 1229 isn't available, consider getting a Dual 12XX changer (I think the 1229 is a single play semi-auto turntable). If the arm is in good condition, stick with it as it can sound pretty good. I might recommend a tonearm re-wire. If the whole table is in good condition I would remove any spring suspension and add an "auxiliary" tonearm mount to allow a 12" arm to be used. Then ry some isolation or "suspension" feet.
Start with something like that. In fact me and my audio partner just completed a "gutted" 1226 changer, removed the arm and spring suspension, made a tonearm for it, and made a cutting block plinth, with "suspension" feet.
I haven't heard it, but if it is anything like my cheap and cheerful gutted 1216 re-plinth with my 219 tonearm, it'll be a standout. Unfortunetly he headed nack home (800 miles away" before I could get good photos of the milled plinth. I do have a couple of photos of the completed table though.
Apparently Affordable$$Audio will be relaunching as an individual internet 'zine, no longer directly affiliated with HiFi'Zine. I'll be back writing there (I was the longest sitting writer at A$$A), mostly DIY stuff and of that mostly analog stuff or new "non-traditional" equipment. My previous article in HiFi'Zine regarding a "recipe for a turntable" will be reposted there. I also have plans to add amendments to the article including a couple of sketches that may be helpful. I'm sure an announcement will be made on diyaudio regarding when a new issue is up.
gaborbela: I think you would be very surprised at how good Dual idlers can sound. If a 1229 isn't available, consider getting a Dual 12XX changer (I think the 1229 is a single play semi-auto turntable). If the arm is in good condition, stick with it as it can sound pretty good. I might recommend a tonearm re-wire. If the whole table is in good condition I would remove any spring suspension and add an "auxiliary" tonearm mount to allow a 12" arm to be used. Then ry some isolation or "suspension" feet.
Start with something like that. In fact me and my audio partner just completed a "gutted" 1226 changer, removed the arm and spring suspension, made a tonearm for it, and made a cutting block plinth, with "suspension" feet.
I haven't heard it, but if it is anything like my cheap and cheerful gutted 1216 re-plinth with my 219 tonearm, it'll be a standout. Unfortunetly he headed nack home (800 miles away" before I could get good photos of the milled plinth. I do have a couple of photos of the completed table though.
Apparently Affordable$$Audio will be relaunching as an individual internet 'zine, no longer directly affiliated with HiFi'Zine. I'll be back writing there (I was the longest sitting writer at A$$A), mostly DIY stuff and of that mostly analog stuff or new "non-traditional" equipment. My previous article in HiFi'Zine regarding a "recipe for a turntable" will be reposted there. I also have plans to add amendments to the article including a couple of sketches that may be helpful. I'm sure an announcement will be made on diyaudio regarding when a new issue is up.
Hello Nannok
I had several Dual TT still have two 505 II and a 510.
I like these 1229 type. I have one at BC $180 with shipping two cartridge.
The table is great condition, the dustcover broken. I do not need dust cover..
I think I'll take that. The 1219, 1229 has originally the longest arm, oil damped. The 1229 has strobe light..
I hate the head shell. The rest can be good..
Yes I wonder if the floating suspension with those springs is OK or just remove them.
Unfortunately after I purchased the titanium tube I realised these is a soft type.
Like low carbon iron. All do Russia use in airplane industries still soft not the usual titanium alloy tube.
I'll test it. Probably carbon fiber tube better than metal tube.
If the orig Dual arm is good I'll cut of the head shell and use that type picture posted before.
The guy sent some picture, she is in nice condition I think I take that.
He wrote it run very smooth.
I do not want to invest in a Garrard 301 or 401 or $400 in a Lenco L75 & L78.
I'm a bit upset on local Kijiji someone sold a very nice L78 only $125.
I called him to late.
Greetings Gabor
Greetings Gabor
I had several Dual TT still have two 505 II and a 510.
I like these 1229 type. I have one at BC $180 with shipping two cartridge.
The table is great condition, the dustcover broken. I do not need dust cover..
I think I'll take that. The 1219, 1229 has originally the longest arm, oil damped. The 1229 has strobe light..
I hate the head shell. The rest can be good..
Yes I wonder if the floating suspension with those springs is OK or just remove them.
Unfortunately after I purchased the titanium tube I realised these is a soft type.
Like low carbon iron. All do Russia use in airplane industries still soft not the usual titanium alloy tube.
I'll test it. Probably carbon fiber tube better than metal tube.
If the orig Dual arm is good I'll cut of the head shell and use that type picture posted before.
The guy sent some picture, she is in nice condition I think I take that.
He wrote it run very smooth.
I do not want to invest in a Garrard 301 or 401 or $400 in a Lenco L75 & L78.
I'm a bit upset on local Kijiji someone sold a very nice L78 only $125.
I called him to late.
Greetings Gabor
Greetings Gabor
turntables to buy...
Gabor:
The 1229 does seem a little expensive, but some folks love them. Does the price include shipping? What cartridge? The carbon fibre headshell can be added to the stock arm (I think) without cutting anything. Just unscrew the one on the 1229 and any of your Dual 5XX tables, then try to install the carbon fibre headshell to the 1229. Don't cut anything! (please).I'd hate to see you damage a table that is quite collectible. I'm also not sure I use it as a donor for a major rebuild. The 1229 has many fans.
A changer or less valuable turntable should be able to be had locally for less if you want to do a major "resto-mod". Or save your $$s and be ready to pounce as soon as you see a Lenco or similar come up on local kijiji or craigslist.
I think you may find the titanium to be quite stiff, even if a "soft" type. At least you can drill it. I use aluminium arrow shafts and cutting is easy enough, but drilling into it is another story.
Hello Nannok
I had several Dual TT still have two 505 II and a 510.
I like these 1229 type. I have one at BC $180 with shipping two cartridge.
The table is great condition, the dustcover broken. I do not need dust cover..
I think I'll take that. The 1219, 1229 has originally the longest arm, oil damped. The 1229 has strobe light..
I hate the head shell. The rest can be good..
Yes I wonder if the floating suspension with those springs is OK or just remove them.
Unfortunately after I purchased the titanium tube I realised these is a soft type.
Like low carbon iron. All do Russia use in airplane industries still soft not the usual titanium alloy tube.
I'll test it. Probably carbon fiber tube better than metal tube.
If the orig Dual arm is good I'll cut of the head shell and use that type picture posted before.
The guy sent some picture, she is in nice condition I think I take that.
He wrote it run very smooth.
I do not want to invest in a Garrard 301 or 401 or $400 in a Lenco L75 & L78.
I'm a bit upset on local Kijiji someone sold a very nice L78 only $125.
I called him to late.
Greetings Gabor
Gabor:
The 1229 does seem a little expensive, but some folks love them. Does the price include shipping? What cartridge? The carbon fibre headshell can be added to the stock arm (I think) without cutting anything. Just unscrew the one on the 1229 and any of your Dual 5XX tables, then try to install the carbon fibre headshell to the 1229. Don't cut anything! (please).I'd hate to see you damage a table that is quite collectible. I'm also not sure I use it as a donor for a major rebuild. The 1229 has many fans.
A changer or less valuable turntable should be able to be had locally for less if you want to do a major "resto-mod". Or save your $$s and be ready to pounce as soon as you see a Lenco or similar come up on local kijiji or craigslist.
I think you may find the titanium to be quite stiff, even if a "soft" type. At least you can drill it. I use aluminium arrow shafts and cutting is easy enough, but drilling into it is another story.
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Hello Nannok
Shipping included, two cartridge some basic Gold ring and Oyster both used but still has some value.
User manual, lubrication kit, arm damping fluid.
I think I do not find cheaper than these offer. I put up several ad no answer at all, I don't know when I search for something I do not find. One of my fried find two SME 3009 type II one was in sealed box at Value Village, He knows nothing about the TT. But he made some money on them.
Before I sow even someone trow out one 1219 to the garbage.
I saw now on Ebay even for $450. But for $250-300 I can see very often of course plus shipping.
Shipping from USA $80-100 or more.
These heavy table. Platter 3.1Kg and regular record size, that why I like these not 10".
These guy purchase from his friend but he does not use it all. He tested (now) works perfect, I think I'll take her.
These originally from Germany but it has the pulley for 60Hertz, the guy was at the army at Germany when he purchased it.
So actually I can say from one owner..
Yes it is pricy a bit but I want to build something for myself.
That is the life.
I do not want to buy a junk and after when I'm ready problem here and there.
Greetings Gabor
Shipping included, two cartridge some basic Gold ring and Oyster both used but still has some value.
User manual, lubrication kit, arm damping fluid.
I think I do not find cheaper than these offer. I put up several ad no answer at all, I don't know when I search for something I do not find. One of my fried find two SME 3009 type II one was in sealed box at Value Village, He knows nothing about the TT. But he made some money on them.
Before I sow even someone trow out one 1219 to the garbage.
I saw now on Ebay even for $450. But for $250-300 I can see very often of course plus shipping.
Shipping from USA $80-100 or more.
These heavy table. Platter 3.1Kg and regular record size, that why I like these not 10".
These guy purchase from his friend but he does not use it all. He tested (now) works perfect, I think I'll take her.
These originally from Germany but it has the pulley for 60Hertz, the guy was at the army at Germany when he purchased it.
So actually I can say from one owner..
Yes it is pricy a bit but I want to build something for myself.
That is the life.
I do not want to buy a junk and after when I'm ready problem here and there.
Greetings Gabor
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well enough then...
Gabor:
Okay, at least you are coming from an informed point. Good luck. Let us know how it all works out.
Gabor:
Okay, at least you are coming from an informed point. Good luck. Let us know how it all works out.
here's a a quote I made on the "Rega advice needed" thread.
Sometimes I confuse myself where I post things, but have a look at Rega Advice please thread (towards the bottom of pg 11) for some of what I've done recently.
cutting boards... are a quick and dirty instant plinth. Mike spent more time milling out the cutout for the TT than anything else (including the tonearm and the headshell). Now that I know that he's got an end mill, I can do all sorts of stuff (I've got a key to his shop🙂 ) with it.
He was floored on how good it sounded. I need to re-plinth my Dual 1216 re-plinth so that it is a little better than screwed to a piece of plywood (BB of course), and screwed to the world's ugliest frame (or "sub-plinth"). I wrote on the plywood plate so that it could be used as a template so that others could make one, it's closer fitting than an open box below the plate. For the Lab60, I've been sculpting a small sheet of 1-1/2" thickness of rigid styrofoam board insulation. A Dremel tool is what I'm sculpting it with. Once I am satisfied that there will be enough clearance, I'll try to reproduce it in wood. I'll link this message to the "turntables for restoration" thread as well...
I have a thin (18mm) bamboo cutting board that I am planning on using to mount my gutted Garrard Lab60 to, then just add some isolation feet and I'll give it a spin. The origonal Lab60 plinth (solid walnut) looks like it will fit the Lab80. I won't hack that one up to make a manual changer. I'd just take the parts I might need or else I could restore it to some kind of original state (but perhaps without that *******' heavy arm). If left stock, I do have an old Shure M93 or M95 ED I could fit. Just only use it as a manual table.
Sometimes I confuse myself where I post things, but have a look at Rega Advice please thread (towards the bottom of pg 11) for some of what I've done recently.
Hello
Yesterday finally I purchased the Dual 1229.
These very nice deck with the longest arm Dual ever made, over 3Kg platter, 3 speed, strong motor condition is great very little use. Of course idle derived.
Unfortunately I do not find cheaper for DIY turntable donor.
Some people sell these on EPay even for $400.
These has no dust cover but I do not need. I'll build my own plinth from solid Baltic birch as heavy as possible. Large enough to use two tone arm a 9" and a 12".
Paid $185 with shipping (from Vancouver) and pay pal fee.
I will get two cartridge, a Goldring and Oyster, lubrication kit, manual.
I will see how will com pare with my Elac.
I put up some ad I want to buy Lenco or these Dual but no answer at all, many people look Lenco or for these decks to get their hand on.😕
Greetings Gabor🙂
Yesterday finally I purchased the Dual 1229.
These very nice deck with the longest arm Dual ever made, over 3Kg platter, 3 speed, strong motor condition is great very little use. Of course idle derived.
Unfortunately I do not find cheaper for DIY turntable donor.
Some people sell these on EPay even for $400.
These has no dust cover but I do not need. I'll build my own plinth from solid Baltic birch as heavy as possible. Large enough to use two tone arm a 9" and a 12".
Paid $185 with shipping (from Vancouver) and pay pal fee.
I will get two cartridge, a Goldring and Oyster, lubrication kit, manual.
I will see how will com pare with my Elac.
I put up some ad I want to buy Lenco or these Dual but no answer at all, many people look Lenco or for these decks to get their hand on.😕
Greetings Gabor🙂
Attachments
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Cartridge help please
Hello
My Dual didn't arrived yet but she is on way to me. Probably next week sometimes. She was shipped on Saturday from Vancouver..
I have some question.
I have two Shure V15 cartridge I don't know which would be better to keep. Both need stylus and I can't afford to buy two stylus now.
I do not want the $15 after marked staff. Those sound awful.
One day someone brought to my apartment two Shure V 15 type III and IV. To me the 3 sounded much better, more dynamic,2X as louder, in one word it was way better in every area.
So I bought the type III for myself.
Could be that type IV was bad for some reason? Both had the orig stylus. I don't know.
I need some help to understand all these.
So right now I have V15 type IV broken stylus and I have a V15 V-MR.
I would like to keep only one, sell another and from the price buy a Anderson or Japanese after market stylus.
Can someone help me which one would better to keep. Keep in mind I have another type III silver color with original Shure VN-35E stylus.
Or better if I get read of bot??
Another question
With the Shure came a Thorens tonearm parts. I want to take of the head shell to use it in my DIY tonearm.
I have 6mm titanium tube I want to build a straight arm.
Did someone ever took of the head shell from these arm? I taught I ask before I start to cut anything. I would like to take it off at the red line. It has some movement but I do not want to break it. Only move a bit where is the read line.
Please take a look at the pictures.
Greetings Gabor
Hello
My Dual didn't arrived yet but she is on way to me. Probably next week sometimes. She was shipped on Saturday from Vancouver..
I have some question.
I have two Shure V15 cartridge I don't know which would be better to keep. Both need stylus and I can't afford to buy two stylus now.
I do not want the $15 after marked staff. Those sound awful.
One day someone brought to my apartment two Shure V 15 type III and IV. To me the 3 sounded much better, more dynamic,2X as louder, in one word it was way better in every area.
So I bought the type III for myself.
Could be that type IV was bad for some reason? Both had the orig stylus. I don't know.
I need some help to understand all these.
So right now I have V15 type IV broken stylus and I have a V15 V-MR.
I would like to keep only one, sell another and from the price buy a Anderson or Japanese after market stylus.
Can someone help me which one would better to keep. Keep in mind I have another type III silver color with original Shure VN-35E stylus.
Or better if I get read of bot??
Another question
With the Shure came a Thorens tonearm parts. I want to take of the head shell to use it in my DIY tonearm.
I have 6mm titanium tube I want to build a straight arm.
Did someone ever took of the head shell from these arm? I taught I ask before I start to cut anything. I would like to take it off at the red line. It has some movement but I do not want to break it. Only move a bit where is the read line.
Please take a look at the pictures.
Greetings Gabor
Attachments
Hello
Just purchased another head shell for straight arm
The Thorens will work but way to light, I don't know if that will be a problem.
I want to test several arm (option).
Also when I build the plinth I will need help about the size, I want to use 2 arm.
One 9" and one 12". The 9" like usually mounth the 12" on the top.
I have to make large enough plinth to feet both arm but I do not want to build a diner table size deck.😀
For the 9" I know the right measurement but for the 12" I will nee some advise.
Greetings Gabor
Just purchased another head shell for straight arm
The Thorens will work but way to light, I don't know if that will be a problem.
I want to test several arm (option).
Also when I build the plinth I will need help about the size, I want to use 2 arm.
One 9" and one 12". The 9" like usually mounth the 12" on the top.
I have to make large enough plinth to feet both arm but I do not want to build a diner table size deck.😀
For the 9" I know the right measurement but for the 12" I will nee some advise.
Greetings Gabor
Attachments
tonearms and headshell angles
gaborbela: first congratulations on all of your finds and good luck with the 12229 rebuild/re-plinth.
I have had a little bit of experience in regards to tonearms. So lets have a look at what you want to accomplish.
the Dual 1229: As you stated, an excellent turntable. Apparently the 1229 was the first "full sized" automatic table made by Dual. It is worth too much (in my estimation) to hack up and modify for a DIY table. A great table to repair and restore, and it will always have some intrinsic value. Many are sold in the $300+ range, so yo if yours functions well, I would clean it up and leave it at that.Make sure the cartridge stylus is in good shape, and enjoy it. (If the 1229 was a beater and not in good shape or incomplete I would suggest using the parts and bits to make your own). One area where almost every Dual suffers is that they often solder tonearm wires to a little circuit board underneath the tonearm and the wires from the tonearm become brittle. A tonearm rewire using a single run of wire to the phono input is the best bet for avoiding this problem.
regarding tonearms: The Thorens headshell looks as though it uses a fixed mounting for the cartridge. This means that the geometry of the original tonearm must be followed or the headshell must be modified to allow its use on a different length tonearm.
The other headshell has some promise for use on any length tonearm. If the headshell to tonearm angle (O/S angle) can be altered a few degrees then it has the potential to allow easy modification for use with a much longer tonearm. I might suggest cutting the headshell or remove it from the existing tonearm further down the arm tube.As it has slots for some adjustment of the cartridge in the headshell you may even get by without having to alter the angle much.
regarding either headshell and its mass: Mass can always be added to a headshell as needed. Small lead weights, washers, etc (even the venerable "penny") can be added. This can also be used to help reduce the resonant frequency of the arm/cart/fastener system.
gaborbela: first congratulations on all of your finds and good luck with the 12229 rebuild/re-plinth.
I have had a little bit of experience in regards to tonearms. So lets have a look at what you want to accomplish.
the Dual 1229: As you stated, an excellent turntable. Apparently the 1229 was the first "full sized" automatic table made by Dual. It is worth too much (in my estimation) to hack up and modify for a DIY table. A great table to repair and restore, and it will always have some intrinsic value. Many are sold in the $300+ range, so yo if yours functions well, I would clean it up and leave it at that.Make sure the cartridge stylus is in good shape, and enjoy it. (If the 1229 was a beater and not in good shape or incomplete I would suggest using the parts and bits to make your own). One area where almost every Dual suffers is that they often solder tonearm wires to a little circuit board underneath the tonearm and the wires from the tonearm become brittle. A tonearm rewire using a single run of wire to the phono input is the best bet for avoiding this problem.
regarding tonearms: The Thorens headshell looks as though it uses a fixed mounting for the cartridge. This means that the geometry of the original tonearm must be followed or the headshell must be modified to allow its use on a different length tonearm.
The other headshell has some promise for use on any length tonearm. If the headshell to tonearm angle (O/S angle) can be altered a few degrees then it has the potential to allow easy modification for use with a much longer tonearm. I might suggest cutting the headshell or remove it from the existing tonearm further down the arm tube.As it has slots for some adjustment of the cartridge in the headshell you may even get by without having to alter the angle much.
regarding either headshell and its mass: Mass can always be added to a headshell as needed. Small lead weights, washers, etc (even the venerable "penny") can be added. This can also be used to help reduce the resonant frequency of the arm/cart/fastener system.
Hello Nannok
Thank you very much!
You right that Dual was chosen after carefully studied them.
One of the best deck among the Duals even how was built to use her.
Keep in mind I got these deck for DIY purpose. Even do it was a bit expensive for DIY, sometimes I see these on Ebay for $400 to.
I have the Elac idler drive deck, I do not touch until I get out better sound from the Dual.
About the tonearms I just study what I can achieve with them.
I have two factory arm in case (com pare with them) one from a Kenwood KD550 and the other from Yamaha YP 801 BL.
Both great condition.
I have a question to you. Do I stick to metal arm (as a material) or it worth to test some carbon fibre pipe to.
From that Thorens I use only the head shell, I did mounted very well, I just have to ad a screw to fix the head not to move.
Even with out screw I could use it, very tight does not move at all but still safety first.
I used a small brass tube at the neck of the arm so I can use a screw to tide up.
My question do I keep far away from the cartridge iron screw etc?
Think about the magnet....
I did check the cartridge mount on the head shell it is possible some adjustments in angle.
From these I try max 9" length.
If you think carbon fibre pipe is good also I buy 2PC, or if the titanium better I'll buy two piece more.
For tone arm suspension I want to try the golf ball to.
All of my arms I put together such way from the cartridge to the RCA connector one wire, no connections.
The metal arm need ground wire, the same is true if I use carbon fibre?
Thanks one more time
Greetings Gabor
Thank you very much!
You right that Dual was chosen after carefully studied them.
One of the best deck among the Duals even how was built to use her.
Keep in mind I got these deck for DIY purpose. Even do it was a bit expensive for DIY, sometimes I see these on Ebay for $400 to.
I have the Elac idler drive deck, I do not touch until I get out better sound from the Dual.
About the tonearms I just study what I can achieve with them.
I have two factory arm in case (com pare with them) one from a Kenwood KD550 and the other from Yamaha YP 801 BL.
Both great condition.
I have a question to you. Do I stick to metal arm (as a material) or it worth to test some carbon fibre pipe to.
From that Thorens I use only the head shell, I did mounted very well, I just have to ad a screw to fix the head not to move.
Even with out screw I could use it, very tight does not move at all but still safety first.
I used a small brass tube at the neck of the arm so I can use a screw to tide up.
My question do I keep far away from the cartridge iron screw etc?
Think about the magnet....
I did check the cartridge mount on the head shell it is possible some adjustments in angle.
From these I try max 9" length.
If you think carbon fibre pipe is good also I buy 2PC, or if the titanium better I'll buy two piece more.
For tone arm suspension I want to try the golf ball to.
All of my arms I put together such way from the cartridge to the RCA connector one wire, no connections.
The metal arm need ground wire, the same is true if I use carbon fibre?
Thanks one more time
Greetings Gabor
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Hello
There are lot of information about DIY tonearm on the net, even here on the forum.😉
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/analogue-source/35189-my-diy-turntables-diy-tonearm.html
I will carefully study them before I do something..
These titanium tube was $6 plus shipping two piece.
I buy two more. Also I'll build titanium head shell. If I can find for right price some 8-10mm diameter carbon fibre tube I'll buy that to.
Unfortunately I'm not working in the factory somewhere I could do machinery. Sooner or latter I will find some help.
The extra material when I have some experience to make the best out of it.
I want to build a solid plinth, do you think Baltic birch or solid oak wood (from 2x2 inch pieces glued together would be better).
3 or 4 level of that top of each other..
I must be sure about the material of the plinth since that cost probably most. I do not want to build several plinth to test which would be better....$$$
BTW did someone tried to use leather math. I made yesterday one and sound incredible.
I started to re-listening all my records! Not a joke.. The best result it would be to get read of the rubber and only use thick very smooth leather. Not the colored type, mine one side colored that side goes to the platter. It was a leather sofa..
Unfortunately my Elac TT platter does not let me to get read of the rubber. Thank God the Dual will.
I have a Kenwood KD550 (15.5Kg), I not even listen a record on it. I just removed the arm the rest goes to the market.
Greetings Gabor
There are lot of information about DIY tonearm on the net, even here on the forum.😉
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/analogue-source/35189-my-diy-turntables-diy-tonearm.html
I will carefully study them before I do something..
These titanium tube was $6 plus shipping two piece.
I buy two more. Also I'll build titanium head shell. If I can find for right price some 8-10mm diameter carbon fibre tube I'll buy that to.
Unfortunately I'm not working in the factory somewhere I could do machinery. Sooner or latter I will find some help.
The extra material when I have some experience to make the best out of it.
I want to build a solid plinth, do you think Baltic birch or solid oak wood (from 2x2 inch pieces glued together would be better).
3 or 4 level of that top of each other..
I must be sure about the material of the plinth since that cost probably most. I do not want to build several plinth to test which would be better....$$$

BTW did someone tried to use leather math. I made yesterday one and sound incredible.
I started to re-listening all my records! Not a joke.. The best result it would be to get read of the rubber and only use thick very smooth leather. Not the colored type, mine one side colored that side goes to the platter. It was a leather sofa..
Unfortunately my Elac TT platter does not let me to get read of the rubber. Thank God the Dual will.
I have a Kenwood KD550 (15.5Kg), I not even listen a record on it. I just removed the arm the rest goes to the market.
Greetings Gabor
Last edited:
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