???? Each one will have its own channel, right? Even if only driven off one channel, you wire them in series to get a nominal 8 ohm load.
GM
GM
Yes, they will have their own channel. I think that's the best thing to do, right? But the signal will be mono, since S-1 does not support stereo (are there any version that does?).
You mean... "Double voicecoils" or what it's called? So i make each of them to an " 8 ohm driver"?
You mean... "Double voicecoils" or what it's called? So i make each of them to an " 8 ohm driver"?
I would. AFAIK all mass market recordings are mono below 120 Hz and up to ~150 Hz back in the days of vinyl/tape, so in theory it doesn't matter how many channels is reproducing it, though some claim they can hear some stereo effects on some recordings when each is on a separate channel, but I dismiss it as differences in the signal chain and room mode effects.
No, the SDX10 is a single VC driver, so I was referring to wiring both subs in series with a single amp channel if you wanted to. You may want to try it to see how it sounds since inductance (Le) will sum and you may like the little extra mid-bass 'punch' and faster HF roll off it yields.
GM
No, the SDX10 is a single VC driver, so I was referring to wiring both subs in series with a single amp channel if you wanted to. You may want to try it to see how it sounds since inductance (Le) will sum and you may like the little extra mid-bass 'punch' and faster HF roll off it yields.
GM
Yes, i might try it. Shouldn't be a problem to do that, just connect some extra cables, right?
But how about just using one channel, i've heard it should be unhealthy for the amplifier. Right?
And the power is split between the two subs, i wont be able to play as loud as i do with two channels?
But how about just using one channel, i've heard it should be unhealthy for the amplifier. Right?
And the power is split between the two subs, i wont be able to play as loud as i do with two channels?
"AFAIK all mass market recordings are mono below 120 Hz and up to ~150 Hz"
I checked with an XY oscilloscope and found this to be untrue.
Many shows significant difference even as low as 40Hz.
So summing would be needed.
I am not saying that it impacts the content in any significant way if it is reproduced in stereo or not. Only that the signal for left and right differs, anything from slight deviation to completely out of phase was observed.
It's mostly rumble and pans that are not mono, but I have found other things as well.
So please don't make such assumptions based on the "perfect mastering engineer" as we all no they don't exist.
It is not hard to verify yourself if desired.
I checked with an XY oscilloscope and found this to be untrue.
Many shows significant difference even as low as 40Hz.
So summing would be needed.
I am not saying that it impacts the content in any significant way if it is reproduced in stereo or not. Only that the signal for left and right differs, anything from slight deviation to completely out of phase was observed.
It's mostly rumble and pans that are not mono, but I have found other things as well.
So please don't make such assumptions based on the "perfect mastering engineer" as we all no they don't exist.
It is not hard to verify yourself if desired.
IME: XO at 80 Hz to the main speakers: At least a 12 dB HP filter is required...at 120 Hz: minimum a 18 dB/octave filter is needed to prevent localization cues drawing attention to the sub bass speaker, i.e. 250 Hz should be at least ~20 dB down.
Adding a simple box layout, See the submitted picture:
b 🙂
What sort of filter is Reckhorn S-1?
And is that box layout possible to use? Is it 55l, a vented box and tuned to 25hz?
It feels like i want to get started building these 😀
I believe the Reckhorn S-1 is a very good sub/satellite signal conditioner to be placed between the preamp outputs and power-amp inputs, that is: if your suggested stereo-amplifier for sub use have such rear outlets/inputs.
It looks like though, you have to connect the sub output with aid of a passive signal splitter(Mono) to the power amp inputs.
Your subs will then be in Mono but if your Mar-Kel70's are powered with a separate amplifier
and using passively acoustic overlapping , I don't believe you loose any stereo LF SQ for music use at all.
The box I suggested is ~50L for the compliance volume less the port system and wood volume, I think the total volume adds to about ~109L.
Your right the tuning is roughly around 25 Hz , ~23 Hz if calculated from the resulting acoustic impedance chart peak.
b🙂
Uhm.. What about the splitters? I do have pre out left and right and then main in left and right. Do i need anything else?
But, wouldn't it count like a 109l box if i do as you suggested?
No,You are right,I read the Reckhorn manual today, no need for signal splitter as two Mono outputs are provided.
*
The suggested box is H=0.707 (m), W= 0.318 (m) and D= 0,482 (m) = 108,4 (L).
The port system is made large to allow for (if necessary) easy port damping as the subs are to be used as stands and could end up close to a wall where the boundary conditions would change the low end FR to aggregate too much acoustic gain.
By the way:
I find no reason( excluding horn subs) to recommend subs(< 40 Hz) to be used as stands in normal size home environments unless additional subs(wall placed) are added to smooth out the occurring modal(s) at listening position.
IME, Stands integrates smoothest placed at least a m in front of a wall with a roll off at ~60 Hz, at min 40 Hz if the case are very large rooms with tall ceilings.
The only dimensions that could be shrunk( while still complying to your requirement of a stand height of ~70 (cm)) is by making the port smaller i.e. by the use of a smaller box Depth.
This is an exercise that could be done if other DIYaudio members are chiming in and are interested in your design and want to contribute...
b🙂
*
The suggested box is H=0.707 (m), W= 0.318 (m) and D= 0,482 (m) = 108,4 (L).
The port system is made large to allow for (if necessary) easy port damping as the subs are to be used as stands and could end up close to a wall where the boundary conditions would change the low end FR to aggregate too much acoustic gain.
By the way:
I find no reason( excluding horn subs) to recommend subs(< 40 Hz) to be used as stands in normal size home environments unless additional subs(wall placed) are added to smooth out the occurring modal(s) at listening position.
IME, Stands integrates smoothest placed at least a m in front of a wall with a roll off at ~60 Hz, at min 40 Hz if the case are very large rooms with tall ceilings.
The only dimensions that could be shrunk( while still complying to your requirement of a stand height of ~70 (cm)) is by making the port smaller i.e. by the use of a smaller box Depth.
This is an exercise that could be done if other DIYaudio members are chiming in and are interested in your design and want to contribute...
b🙂
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Could you take that last part in swedish? I don't really understand :S
And the depth is a little too much i think. I'd prefer to keep it a maximum of 40cm if possible.
And the depth is a little too much i think. I'd prefer to keep it a maximum of 40cm if possible.
:S is a smiley.
And i didn't understand this part "By the way:
I find no reason( excluding horn subs) to recommend subs(< 40 Hz) to be used as stands in normal size home environments unless additional subs(wall placed) are added to smooth out the occurring modal(s) at listening position.
IME, Stands integrates smoothest placed at least a m in front of a wall with a roll off at ~60 Hz, at min 40 Hz if the case are very large rooms with tall ceilings.
The only dimensions that could be shrunk( while still complying to your requirement of a stand height of ~70 (cm)) is by making the port smaller i.e. by the use of a smaller box"
And i didn't understand this part "By the way:
I find no reason( excluding horn subs) to recommend subs(< 40 Hz) to be used as stands in normal size home environments unless additional subs(wall placed) are added to smooth out the occurring modal(s) at listening position.
IME, Stands integrates smoothest placed at least a m in front of a wall with a roll off at ~60 Hz, at min 40 Hz if the case are very large rooms with tall ceilings.
The only dimensions that could be shrunk( while still complying to your requirement of a stand height of ~70 (cm)) is by making the port smaller i.e. by the use of a smaller box"
Well, the design bjorno came up with is called "slitsport" in swedish i think.
It seems like a good design but i'd need it to be not that very deep (maximum 40cm) and i will have to optimize the airflow in the port somehow. Can somebody help me? I want to get started 😀
It seems like a good design but i'd need it to be not that very deep (maximum 40cm) and i will have to optimize the airflow in the port somehow. Can somebody help me? I want to get started 😀
I've been thinking of a design. I saw this design: http://www.hometheatershack.com/for...irst-subwoofer-build-css-sdx15-pics-sub-2.jpg
Maybe if i make a box similar like that with the legs and such?
But i'd prefer a pretty slim enclosure, maximum 40cm deep and side-mounted driver. Could that work?
Maybe if i make a box similar like that with the legs and such?
But i'd prefer a pretty slim enclosure, maximum 40cm deep and side-mounted driver. Could that work?
When reading the spec-sheet for the SDX10 i see they recommend a 43l box tuned to 24.5hz. And i'm gonna build a 50l box tuned to 25hz.
What's best?
And, is there a new version of SDX10 coming up within a year?
What's best?
And, is there a new version of SDX10 coming up within a year?
Not a whole lot of difference between those 2 vented boxes. A high aspect ratio slot port could go a long way to taming the peak from room gain.
Mine are going into 35 litres each sealed, and i'll use room gain (and maybe a bit of boost) to have them hit <25 Hz.
There will be new SDX10 coming since Bob is almost out. I don't expect them to be significantly different.
dave
dave
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