my latest iteration of "Nanook's 219 tonearm"..

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got some bronze
 

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Counterweights

I think I found my counterweight. I found it on the road as I rode my bike home from work. I think it's a cable clamp of some sort. It will probably be too heavy but I'll cut it down if needed. It looks to be easy to tighten and adjust on the arrow. Cardas wire and this for a counterweight and a couple of hours and I think it will work. Maybe this weekend!
 

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symmetric? nope...

not required, when hung the weight will centre itself if on a thread.

if using my method, a slight twist of the arm can allow for adjustment of the azimuth.

wjlamp: any progress?

all others:I have finally made contact with Bernie, who has graciously offered to provide me with the additional headshells I need to be able to send the arms out.
 
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counterweight ? 😉

I have a brass counterweight for mine, there should be a photo in one of my previous posts showing how mine is made. I'm just about to go scrounging for some suitable tone arm wire and I have an old Stanton 681EE that I will use initially on this arm. (And I mean 40+ yrs old, but it sounds pretty good surprisingly.)

A lot of other things have gotten in the way including the ongoing restoration of my TD-124 MKII which is well along now.. (Fancy plinth next)

Oh, and job hunting.. 😀
 
trying to finish off the Ariston fix, and waiting for headshells...

I must say I hate the stainless top plate. It rings pretty badd.

That's an interesting comment as I have a very late TD-124 MKII with the less desirable optional aluminum platter which actually rings pretty badly. There are a variety of expensive to hideously expensive replacement platters for this table one of which is stainless steel, and which presumably might not be as big an improvement over the aluminum platter as hoped. I am planning on scraping pennies and saving for the very well regarded non-magnetic iron platter offered by Schopper. In the mean time I am thinking about damping the existing platter a bit somehow.
 
noisy motor...

the Hurst replacement motor has gone from quiet to noisy. Guess I'll have to let it spin the platter for a week and then re-adjust the bearings...

If I were building up an Ariston, I'd keep the platter, bearing, ..and that's it (maybe a belt). The Ariston "Phoenix" build comes to mind...
 
the Hurst replacement motor has gone from quiet to noisy. Guess I'll have to let it spin the platter for a week and then re-adjust the bearings...

<snip>

Another challenge to overcome.. Analog, analog... 😀 Hopefully it will again be quiet once the bearings are re-aligned. I have noticed similar misbehavior with the TimAudio pod motor bearings from time to time. A quick tap and all is quiet again.. I use this to drive the "Phenolic Wonder" (see below) which is incidentally the table that will host the Nanook 219 arm experiments.. It is actually a much better TT than I expected it to be, it was almost as big a hit as the TD-124 at last week-end's audiofest. 😀

The Thorens really doesn't like the cold, it really wanted to stay asleep when I turned it on just a little while ago, and it was a balmy 60 in here, can't wait until it gets colder than that - it probably will refuse to awake from its slumbers. Guess i should have used synthetic lube with a good cold pour characteristic. 😱 I suspect some minor motor tweaking may be needed soon. I haven't done anything since the rebuild.

I'd build some crazy over the top TT since I suspect you can.. The Ariston project you linked to seems like the perfect way to go. My attempt at a good diy table turned into an expensive boondoggle and the best bits got recycled into the much less ambitious "Phenolic Wonder." The TD-124 was the answer to the issue I was trying to address with the first project.
 

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the Phoenix...

is a pretty nice solution. I've cut a BB sub-chassis. All I have to do is cut a top plate out of BB and use some nice teak shorts I was able to buy cheap for a box plinth.

I need to use a hand plane to get rid of some cupping, but otherwise a basic mitred box with corner bracing and some diy feet should do the trick. I'm going to try using heater hose as "hanging" springs.

Now if I had a TD125, I'd follow the Chadwick mods and go full bore, or do a complete revamp.
 
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