yes -I'm going for a medium weight plinth coupled with replacing the springs with neoprene hose to make it a semi-suspended table. Pulling out the table last i sadly discovered the alu face plate is glued down instead of screwed as it had initially appeared to be - meaning I'll have to destroy it to get at the screws holding the top plate to the frame, which is a real pain. I wanted to keep the look 🙁
A nice way to reform the 150,is to build 3 pods,each one for the motor, platter and tonearm.You will test your belief,if platter and tonearm-cartridge,will perform without interacting.
Seriously,though,the platter will be benefited by a sand loaded plexiglass pod,of the appropriate size.The arm pod ,sand loaded too,will let you experiment with a lot of tonearm sizes ,without using outriggers.
And since you own 147 too,you will have two rigs of different persuation.
B.L
arms cut, headshells begun, Pivot "dowels" are cut and shaped.
I need to drill the dowelling to accept the pen nibs. They are shaped. The arms need to be drilled for the bearings, and the bearings installed. Kudos to Bernie for his headshells, because they are way more difficult to make than one might suspect.
About 30% done those.
Also, where do you folks want the holes drilled for the tonearm wire to exit?
I need to drill the dowelling to accept the pen nibs. They are shaped. The arms need to be drilled for the bearings, and the bearings installed. Kudos to Bernie for his headshells, because they are way more difficult to make than one might suspect.
About 30% done those.
Also, where do you folks want the holes drilled for the tonearm wire to exit?
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lateral in opposite side of platter ,where there is a free space
trondkj
why up ? there is nothing up....
trondkj
why up ? there is nothing up....
wjlamp...any comments? ...and the "list"
wjlamp:have ya had a chance to listen? hope so.
Others: about 65% done making 8 arms. The headshells are a PITA given my limited facilities...
Ok, here's who I have down for an arm:
(that's 7) and????
So one more left (or if i forgot someone either PM me or email me) .
..for any that wondered what the corks were for, they were to stuff into the end of the arm to help reduce resonances (and give a more refined look to the tail end of the arms🙂.
I'm not including the corks as all must have something like that available. You can also use these to help weigh the headshell end down if added mass is required.
Regarding the opening for the wire exit, the holes shall be on the lower side of the arm adjacent to the pivots. I've decided this after some consideration. There is an intention to this location: If the exit for the arm wiring is facing upward, it may create a situation where the wiring will affect the arms' movements across the record. By exiting on the lower side and allowing the wire to loop up, the wire then can be fastened to the pivot holder (dowel), while having little effect on the movement.
Back to work...it's my lunch hour..
stew
wjlamp:have ya had a chance to listen? hope so.
Others: about 65% done making 8 arms. The headshells are a PITA given my limited facilities...
Ok, here's who I have down for an arm:
- tmblack
- sgregory
- nicoch46
- trondkj
- cansld
- sled108
- laophroaig
(that's 7) and????
So one more left (or if i forgot someone either PM me or email me) .
..for any that wondered what the corks were for, they were to stuff into the end of the arm to help reduce resonances (and give a more refined look to the tail end of the arms🙂.
I'm not including the corks as all must have something like that available. You can also use these to help weigh the headshell end down if added mass is required.
Regarding the opening for the wire exit, the holes shall be on the lower side of the arm adjacent to the pivots. I've decided this after some consideration. There is an intention to this location: If the exit for the arm wiring is facing upward, it may create a situation where the wiring will affect the arms' movements across the record. By exiting on the lower side and allowing the wire to loop up, the wire then can be fastened to the pivot holder (dowel), while having little effect on the movement.
Back to work...it's my lunch hour..
stew
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Not yet Stew,but I'm ready.
(I 'll try to install an aluminum,or altenatively plexiglass headshell,Mission 774 style,I am not too fond 🙂,of wooden head shells,or the use of wood in tonearms,and turntables (aesthetics only).
But I will try it as designed,anyway.(on the 28th,it's a holiday here,so..plenty of spare time)
B.L
Anyone compare this to a Well Tempered Arm?
I got a Rega 2 and Shure V15 III and several other Shures.
I haven't tried a unipivot, should be quite lively.
I got a Rega 2 and Shure V15 III and several other Shures.
I haven't tried a unipivot, should be quite lively.
A unipivot should bring out more detail. The WTA is very damped, especially in the bass response. Am I wrong to think that?
If by "lively" you do mean "more detail",I think that it is wrong.
But yet again,you might be right,because it depends on the cartridge used.
You must be a heavy Shure user,judging by your post,and you are aware of course,that mm cartridges,are sensitive to capacitance.
The mix of a relatively light unipivot,a high compliance mm cartridge and a highish capacitance on the phono in,might sound detailed.
(btw, what is WTA?)
B.L
He's refering to the Well Tempered Arm, devised by Bill Firebaugh. I've got one on my WT "Amadeus" prototype TT.
Best Regards,
TerryO
WTA="Well Tempered Arm"
tmblack:
I've found uni-pivots to have a very good, open, and lively sound. I use Grado cartridges pretty much exclusively. Although i don't have any of the more recent ones (the References, etc).
The Shures are typically in the 25-32 range for compliance. The effective mass of the arms is around 18.5 grams, including headshells in wood and fasteners. Let's use 6 grams as a typical mass for a Shure. So Resonant frequency should be calculated out to be 6.2 Hz or so (this allows 2 grams for wire). A little low. If a Shure is used and the "dynamic stabilizer" aka: the "brush" is removed, then the mass goes down and Fs goes up.
In the case of using heavier cartridges with high compliance, a reduction in weight is required from somewhere. And thus, wooden headshells are suitable. Plastic fasteners could be used, and Kynar wire for tonearm wire could result in satisfactory results.
wjlamp: the mass of the headshell must not be any heavier than 4.5 grams. Depending on the cartridge you plan on using, (a Denon if I recall) you could end up with quite a brittle sound. The resonate frequency works out to about 13.7 (calculated). If you consider a couple of grams for wire and cartridge pins, then, F(s) results in 12.9 Hz or so. It will be interesting to see what test record results occur.
In my case I use Grados, and F(s) calculates out to about 7 Hz.
tmblack:
I've found uni-pivots to have a very good, open, and lively sound. I use Grado cartridges pretty much exclusively. Although i don't have any of the more recent ones (the References, etc).
The Shures are typically in the 25-32 range for compliance. The effective mass of the arms is around 18.5 grams, including headshells in wood and fasteners. Let's use 6 grams as a typical mass for a Shure. So Resonant frequency should be calculated out to be 6.2 Hz or so (this allows 2 grams for wire). A little low. If a Shure is used and the "dynamic stabilizer" aka: the "brush" is removed, then the mass goes down and Fs goes up.
In the case of using heavier cartridges with high compliance, a reduction in weight is required from somewhere. And thus, wooden headshells are suitable. Plastic fasteners could be used, and Kynar wire for tonearm wire could result in satisfactory results.
wjlamp: the mass of the headshell must not be any heavier than 4.5 grams. Depending on the cartridge you plan on using, (a Denon if I recall) you could end up with quite a brittle sound. The resonate frequency works out to about 13.7 (calculated). If you consider a couple of grams for wire and cartridge pins, then, F(s) results in 12.9 Hz or so. It will be interesting to see what test record results occur.
In my case I use Grados, and F(s) calculates out to about 7 Hz.
headshells all busted....
I measure the diameters of the tonearm shafts, and drilled out the end of the headshells to accept it. I then attempted to insert the arms into the headshells and busted them all. I don't have any "precision equipment, and thus used what I had. This resulted in less than ideal alignment and ...well I busted them all. I guess I may resort to a method aI used previously and use dowelling and small plates as per the Schroeder design...
I measure the diameters of the tonearm shafts, and drilled out the end of the headshells to accept it. I then attempted to insert the arms into the headshells and busted them all. I don't have any "precision equipment, and thus used what I had. This resulted in less than ideal alignment and ...well I busted them all. I guess I may resort to a method aI used previously and use dowelling and small plates as per the Schroeder design...
Stew,
The headshells for your "219" like the one that I picked up at the Van Island Meet had the hole drilled in the end of the headshell and then was sawn lengthwise through the bottom to the mounting hole with a fine kerf saw in order that a little bit of spread is possible. Bernie seems to have anticipated the need to not only allow for some tolerances, but the possibilty to slide the headshell fore and aft on the armwand. I'm guessing that he figured that when all is adjusted correctly that a drop of glue, or perhaps a dab of hot glue, would fasten the headshell in place. I don't have an email address for him otherwise I would contact him directly and find out for certain.
Which reminds me, I still can't figure how to get on your "Nanook 219" group.
Best Regards,
Terry
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headshells and things...
Terry,
try this: Nanook Analog group
I understand that Bernie cut the slots. I suggested it to him....the idea was to allow for a screw to be used to clamp the
I think I'll have to buy some tools to do this effectively. I've spent way to much time doing this. I used a table saw and "nibbled away at a plank to create the blanks. Then tried to drill vertical holes. The weren't vertical. Then I tried a couple more times. The problem is lack of suitable tools. Bernie's headshells (I think it was Bernie....) were modelled after an old Kencraft aluminum headshell that I had here.
So a drill press, and an inexpensive band saw.
Terry,
try this: Nanook Analog group
I understand that Bernie cut the slots. I suggested it to him....the idea was to allow for a screw to be used to clamp the
I think I'll have to buy some tools to do this effectively. I've spent way to much time doing this. I used a table saw and "nibbled away at a plank to create the blanks. Then tried to drill vertical holes. The weren't vertical. Then I tried a couple more times. The problem is lack of suitable tools. Bernie's headshells (I think it was Bernie....) were modelled after an old Kencraft aluminum headshell that I had here.
So a drill press, and an inexpensive band saw.
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