If the whole string needs to matched for each side, what is the total drop needed? eg are we aiming for a total drop of 6.7V or does it matter once its approx 6.7V but its the same each side?
Might be worth buying a selection of different LEDs if thats the case.
Fran
Might be worth buying a selection of different LEDs if thats the case.
Fran
Hi, just got back from Italy and I am happy to see that the forum has changed and that the GB is working again. Too bad that Ferds bailed out.
Although I read the last pages it is not entirely clear how I can order PCB's. I would like to volunteer for the prototypes if that is still needed.
Although I read the last pages it is not entirely clear how I can order PCB's. I would like to volunteer for the prototypes if that is still needed.
Jean Paul, I am looking for some more people to prototype the 'basic' or hypnotize version. Although I would consider sending out another of the deluxe if needed. Just Email me off list with you shipping address.
The prototypes should arrive next week (week of 13th). Or at least be on their way.
Assuming prototype stage starts working out within two weeks after that, I intend to do a larger order in October. (assuming no changes)
This will be my first GB admin job, so I hope not everyone hates me if things don't go super-smoothly.
After the experiance we all had with Ferds, i don't think so, He thought only of himself, you are thinking of us, that's a major difference.
HI,
I would like to purchase one stereo board when it is ready.
How do I register ?
Thanks
kp93300
I would like to purchase one stereo board when it is ready.
How do I register ?
Thanks
kp93300
kp93300 -
There is no Wiki to work with right now. Keep an eye on this thread, and when they are ready, I'll let everyone know. Right now, prototype boards have been ordered. Then volunteers need to build them up and check them out.
Tea-Bag.
There is no Wiki to work with right now. Keep an eye on this thread, and when they are ready, I'll let everyone know. Right now, prototype boards have been ordered. Then volunteers need to build them up and check them out.
Tea-Bag.
Speaking of building and checking...
I found some AB carbon comp for the 470r gate stoppers, but they are only 1/4 watt. Are they worth trying or is the rating too small.
I found some AB carbon comp for the 470r gate stoppers, but they are only 1/4 watt. Are they worth trying or is the rating too small.
You refer to the regulator's Mosfet gate stoppers. OK, got it. 470R 1/4W is fine. Its just the pads can take 1/2W because many quality resistors can be big. No problem. I thought we were talking the audio section Jfet gate stoppers, never mind.😀
FWIW, tonight I installed a lightspeed attenuator into my standard B1. Listening to happen later on tonight. If this works out to be as good as indicated by a few people then it may be the way to go rather than a stepped pot.
More later.
Fran
More later.
Fran
mmm. Well I think the lightpseed is looking like the way to go here. While I've only spent a night with this so far, it seems to be that I've gotten the best sound I've ever had in my room with B1/lightspeed combo.
Hard to believe that the shunt reg could actually sound better!
Fran
Hard to believe that the shunt reg could actually sound better!
Fran
That's really good news! It confirms my suspicions and raise my hopes. I know that building this stuff is an addiction; (Hello, my name is Bill and I am a DIY addict) but I want this to be my pre-amp for a good while!
Speaking of using a lightspeed as my attenuator; it needs 5v to operate. Thinkl I can piggy back on the 5v supply used for the relays? I'm checking on the draw, shouldn't be to much 4 leds...
IIRC, that supply for the relays is pretty basic. If I were you I might tap into the higher voltage supply and use the little shunt circuit that Salas posted back up (the one with the 6LEDs). Thats what I'm going to use I think.
Fran
EDIT: heres the post in the lightspeed thread:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1918670&postcount=2463
and the sch:
Fran
EDIT: heres the post in the lightspeed thread:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1918670&postcount=2463
and the sch:
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In practice, if the Leds you gonna use in the minishunt don't reach Vf when you have max consumption (100R LSPD at min vol or max vol) you can go with 22R instead of 27R for the 317 CCS. So there will be more current left for them to go strong enough. You will see. I remind you that if you can find easier 2.2V Vf LEDs for instance, you can lift the voltage with one diode between the LEDs and ground. With 2.5Vf Leds you don't need to add yet another component with its own little noise though. This minishunt is the simplest thing, and parallels Leds, cutting their noise further. Let us know if you can detect any differences VS battery PSU. Will be an interesting experiment. Here is an example schematic for 56mA CCS and 2.2Vf matched LEDs (possible to find a mean average like that). That will keep the shunt LEDs between 6-12mA for max-min 2 channel LSPD consumption scenarios. LM317 needs no sink.
Attachments
do not use an ancilliary supply for an audio supply, particularly when the ancillary produces transient current demand (both glitches and pulses).
These artefacts leak into any circuit sharing the supply and will ruin the audio quality.
Some manufacturers go as far as fitting separate mains transformers for each of Audio/Digital/ancilliaries.
AndrewT thanks for the input. I will be using a separate supply just to keep things tidy and it is the right way to do it.
I was thinking about sharing the supply because none of the active bits are in the signal path and the passive parts are optically isolated. I do not think the noise would be an issue.
I was thinking about sharing the supply because none of the active bits are in the signal path and the passive parts are optically isolated. I do not think the noise would be an issue.