For Sale Various polypropylene capacitors
- Swap Meet
- 2 Replies
I have for sale the follow capacitors;
1uf @ £2.00 each - 25 pieces available.
2.2uf @ £2.00 each - 30 pieces available.
4.7uf @ £3.50 each - 7 pieces available.
10uf @ £4.00 each - 20 pieces available.
Wima's are genuine, bought from Buerklin for a project that was never started.
Postage will be at cost. payment will be via Paypal.
Portable Battery Powered MEH Build
Need/Use Case: I’ve always wanted a decent bluetooth speaker that I could carry when traveling/hiking/camping/etc. but could never find one that really provided a quality listening experience. Most of the larger manufacturers with bluetooth devices seem to be dubious with their ratings and make speakers that appeal to the mass market with little regard to any sort of controlled directivity (not that omni is necessarily a bad thing when it comes to BT speakers).
In addition to this, I run a sound system for small-medium sized events and have been looking for a no-frills fill box that I can throw in a corner and feed a signal to without having to worry about it, so the appeal of a battery powered “set it and go” box is high for me.
Background: I’ve had a fascination with multiple entry horns over the last year or so having prototyped a few larger format MEHs at this point. If you know anything about MEHs, there are some considerations regarding the size, flare rate, and horn profile to achieve what they do. Going small with a MEH means you do lose out on some of these benefits if you plan to do a full-range build.
However, the primary guiding reason of this speaker’s arrangement is not necessarily to benefit from hornloading the 6.5” woofers, but to offer a highly compact arrangement that wouldn’t be possible with a flat baffle. As an additional benefit this places the acoustic centers of the drivers very closely and provides a good directivity match between the woofers and compression driver, despite the steep crossover. What it doesn’t do is give a substantial sensitivity boost/impedance match to the woofers that you would get from a larger conical MEH.
Build Requirements: I set out to design a speaker that would attempt to hit these metrics:
The Design
Acknowledging that I wasn't constrained by a straight wall conical horn, I opted to utilize Ath to design a waveguide that would provide a more uniform wavefront than would be possible with a pyramid shaped horn. For this reason, I’m hesitant to call it a horn and lean more towards a waveguide (I’m loosely defining this based on my understanding of Geddes’ classification).
For components, I opted towards using the new B&C DH350 compression driver, two 6NDL38 6.5” woofers, and two Scanspeak SB16PFCR-00 passive radiators (ports were out of the question due to the small enclosure size). This blend of components lends itself nicely to a crossover point somewhere in the 1.0-1.2kHz region, so that is what I targeted in Ath/Hornresp.
To achieve that, there was a good deal of fine tuning/tweaking the models in Ath/Hornresp. The basic idea was to really nail the directivity/impedance curve in Ath, then (loosely) translate that profile into Hornresp so that I could leverage the MEH wizard to integrate the woofers and find the point at which they could meet the CD.
Knowing that my crossover would be somewhere in the 1-1.2kHz area, I then sized out and placed the woofer taps in Fusion along the corners of the horn where the centroid of the taps is about ¼ wavelength @xo from the CD exit. I then modeled a flange for mounting the woofers leaving a flat area open so that I could come in later on and add cone fillers if needed.
My 3D printer bed isn’t large, so the model is split into 3 pieces - a left and right half with a throat adapter. I used 2 part clear epoxy to join the halves together. The woofer mounting nuts are heat-set M4 inserts.
Because of the proximity of the drivers, the 2 M4 fasteners holding the compression driver in may be hard to reach. I used a stubby hex drive to get to them when installed into the enclosure.
The enclosure is a simple hexagonal shaped box made from 12MM birch plywood with about a 15 liter volume after accounting for the displacement of the horn/drivers.
Unfortunately I misjudged the amount of clearance I'd need for the passive radiators, so they do butt up against the rear of the woofers when installed. If I do another box, I’m going to add a couple extra mm clearance there. The good news is that there is a hole in the basket of the passive radiators that lines up perfectly with the 6NDL38’s pole vent, so I don’t anticipate any overheating issues there.
During the initial testing I taped the front of the waveguide to the enclosure. This went about as expected, but I was at least able to get the data I needed. I use an outdoor ground plane measurement setup according to this guide from Scott Hinson. Measuring with a Dayton audio UMM-6 with a 20 cycle FDW applied at 1 meter (2 meters for off-axis). 30°C at 72% humidity.
For this first prototype, I wanted to validate the Abec/Hornresp model and check physical fitment - wasn’t going for a final rendition. The thought was to build the initial prototype and gradually add cone filler until I achieved the desired woofer response. For the most part, this was a success, but for whatever reason there was a secondary peak in the woofer response that I hadn’t anticipated. I’m going to consider my failure to anticipate this a happy accident, because it meant that the woofers conveniently worked out perfectly to meet the compression driver on the first try. If you have any insight/theories into why that secondary peak might exist, I’d love to hear.
Barring that, the unfiltered responses of both drivers overlaid looks like this.
For the woofers, I opted for a 1st order 80Hz LPF to flatten out the response, which got me 80% of the way to where I needed to be. After applying some corrective EQ, I was able to get a solid response from 60Hz-16kHz. I’m applying a 4th order 45Hz HPF to protect from overexcursion. After generating the spinorama I realized I probably could have done more on the EQ front to correct the 500-2k region, but I’m happy enough with it and don’t really wanna do 36 more sweeps just to make a squiggly line less squiggly.
Distortion as measured with stepped sine tones:
Group Delay:
And finally polars (normalized on axis):
Given these results, I decided to go ahead and finish out this prototype. There’s some details in the physical construction of the box I might make in a future version, but overall I was quite happy with the performance. I chose a Dayton Audio KABD-4100 amplifier paired with one of their 6 cell 18650 BMS boards, mostly due to availability and balance of features. One of the outputs was left unplugged, so it's not the most efficient setup but I found it works quite well for the price. The sigmastudio file is provided in the zip file.
Regarding the enclosure, whatever you build make certain it's well sealed. You may want to modify the flange on the waveguide for a cleaner mount. These little drivers move a lot of air and I spent the better part of an afternoon working out caulking/gaskets to fully take care of air leaks.
(I've since added a Neutrik combo XLR jack to the rear)
Specs
Compromises: These are the areas that I’ve identified as weaknesses in this build or areas for improvement.
In addition to this, I run a sound system for small-medium sized events and have been looking for a no-frills fill box that I can throw in a corner and feed a signal to without having to worry about it, so the appeal of a battery powered “set it and go” box is high for me.
Background: I’ve had a fascination with multiple entry horns over the last year or so having prototyped a few larger format MEHs at this point. If you know anything about MEHs, there are some considerations regarding the size, flare rate, and horn profile to achieve what they do. Going small with a MEH means you do lose out on some of these benefits if you plan to do a full-range build.
However, the primary guiding reason of this speaker’s arrangement is not necessarily to benefit from hornloading the 6.5” woofers, but to offer a highly compact arrangement that wouldn’t be possible with a flat baffle. As an additional benefit this places the acoustic centers of the drivers very closely and provides a good directivity match between the woofers and compression driver, despite the steep crossover. What it doesn’t do is give a substantial sensitivity boost/impedance match to the woofers that you would get from a larger conical MEH.
Build Requirements: I set out to design a speaker that would attempt to hit these metrics:
- Full range with at least 100dB output down to 50Hz
- Wide 60x90 pattern with well controlled directivity in both horizontal and vertical axes
- Highly portable (<15 LBS and <25 liters)
- At least 8 hours battery life
The Design
Acknowledging that I wasn't constrained by a straight wall conical horn, I opted to utilize Ath to design a waveguide that would provide a more uniform wavefront than would be possible with a pyramid shaped horn. For this reason, I’m hesitant to call it a horn and lean more towards a waveguide (I’m loosely defining this based on my understanding of Geddes’ classification).
For components, I opted towards using the new B&C DH350 compression driver, two 6NDL38 6.5” woofers, and two Scanspeak SB16PFCR-00 passive radiators (ports were out of the question due to the small enclosure size). This blend of components lends itself nicely to a crossover point somewhere in the 1.0-1.2kHz region, so that is what I targeted in Ath/Hornresp.
To achieve that, there was a good deal of fine tuning/tweaking the models in Ath/Hornresp. The basic idea was to really nail the directivity/impedance curve in Ath, then (loosely) translate that profile into Hornresp so that I could leverage the MEH wizard to integrate the woofers and find the point at which they could meet the CD.
Knowing that my crossover would be somewhere in the 1-1.2kHz area, I then sized out and placed the woofer taps in Fusion along the corners of the horn where the centroid of the taps is about ¼ wavelength @xo from the CD exit. I then modeled a flange for mounting the woofers leaving a flat area open so that I could come in later on and add cone fillers if needed.
My 3D printer bed isn’t large, so the model is split into 3 pieces - a left and right half with a throat adapter. I used 2 part clear epoxy to join the halves together. The woofer mounting nuts are heat-set M4 inserts.
Because of the proximity of the drivers, the 2 M4 fasteners holding the compression driver in may be hard to reach. I used a stubby hex drive to get to them when installed into the enclosure.
The enclosure is a simple hexagonal shaped box made from 12MM birch plywood with about a 15 liter volume after accounting for the displacement of the horn/drivers.
Unfortunately I misjudged the amount of clearance I'd need for the passive radiators, so they do butt up against the rear of the woofers when installed. If I do another box, I’m going to add a couple extra mm clearance there. The good news is that there is a hole in the basket of the passive radiators that lines up perfectly with the 6NDL38’s pole vent, so I don’t anticipate any overheating issues there.
During the initial testing I taped the front of the waveguide to the enclosure. This went about as expected, but I was at least able to get the data I needed. I use an outdoor ground plane measurement setup according to this guide from Scott Hinson. Measuring with a Dayton audio UMM-6 with a 20 cycle FDW applied at 1 meter (2 meters for off-axis). 30°C at 72% humidity.
For this first prototype, I wanted to validate the Abec/Hornresp model and check physical fitment - wasn’t going for a final rendition. The thought was to build the initial prototype and gradually add cone filler until I achieved the desired woofer response. For the most part, this was a success, but for whatever reason there was a secondary peak in the woofer response that I hadn’t anticipated. I’m going to consider my failure to anticipate this a happy accident, because it meant that the woofers conveniently worked out perfectly to meet the compression driver on the first try. If you have any insight/theories into why that secondary peak might exist, I’d love to hear.
Barring that, the unfiltered responses of both drivers overlaid looks like this.
For the woofers, I opted for a 1st order 80Hz LPF to flatten out the response, which got me 80% of the way to where I needed to be. After applying some corrective EQ, I was able to get a solid response from 60Hz-16kHz. I’m applying a 4th order 45Hz HPF to protect from overexcursion. After generating the spinorama I realized I probably could have done more on the EQ front to correct the 500-2k region, but I’m happy enough with it and don’t really wanna do 36 more sweeps just to make a squiggly line less squiggly.
Distortion as measured with stepped sine tones:
Group Delay:
And finally polars (normalized on axis):
Given these results, I decided to go ahead and finish out this prototype. There’s some details in the physical construction of the box I might make in a future version, but overall I was quite happy with the performance. I chose a Dayton Audio KABD-4100 amplifier paired with one of their 6 cell 18650 BMS boards, mostly due to availability and balance of features. One of the outputs was left unplugged, so it's not the most efficient setup but I found it works quite well for the price. The sigmastudio file is provided in the zip file.
Regarding the enclosure, whatever you build make certain it's well sealed. You may want to modify the flange on the waveguide for a cleaner mount. These little drivers move a lot of air and I spent the better part of an afternoon working out caulking/gaskets to fully take care of air leaks.
Specs
- Frequency Response: 60-16kHz (+-2dB)
- Coverage: 75Hx60V
- Maximum SPL: 106dB (about where the 6NDL38s and PRs reach xmax - can reach higher if you HPF at 80Hz.)
- Battery Life: Subjectively well over 8 hours, but I’ll be doing an M-noise stress test later at some point to get a real validated runtime number.
- Weight: 14.9lbs (6.75kg)
- Outer Dimensions: 18.5” wide x 10.2” deep x 7.9” tall (47x26x20cm)
- Internal Volume: about 15 liters
- Components:
- 2x B&C 6NDL38 Woofers
- 1x B&C DH350 Compression Driver
- 1x Dayton Audio KABD-4100
- 1x Dayton Audio LBB-6S
- 6x Samsung 35E 18650 cells
- 2x Scanspeak SB16PFCR-00
Compromises: These are the areas that I’ve identified as weaknesses in this build or areas for improvement.
- Coverage is a bit narrower than I would have liked it to be. I think I need to refine my Ath skills a bit more since this didn’t necessarily match the polars I generated in ABEC.
- The steep crossover slopes may not be ideal for some listeners and introduce a small amount of group delay (about 1.3ms at 1200Hz.) This could probably be corrected with FIR.
- The DH350 breaks up at around 16kHz, so don’t expect full extension up to 20kHz
- Distortion is higher than I’d like it to be on the low end - no doubt due to nonlinearities with the passive radiators. They’re cheap - buy better ones if you can. Also - you should be able to achieve much better bass performance by increasing the box size by about 25%, so if space isn’t an issue that should be considered.
- Subjectively, the DH350 lacks a sort of upper midrange clarity that I’ve heard with other (larger) compression drivers. I’d wager this is due to some diaphragm resonances, but haven’t measured it. I’d recommend buying one to prototype with other horns/waveguides to assess this yourself before determining if this build is for you.
Tiny Passive Radiators?
I'm working on a powered speaker that will fit in a guitar pedal enclosure (66mm x 121mm x 40mm). I'm taking inspiration from the many small bluetooth speakers that provide surprising bass for their size. I realize there's probably DSP at work, but I also often see passive radiators as well. For example attached is a photo of a small guitar amp called the Spark Go which measures 163.7 x 75.6 x 8.6 mm (6.44 x 2.98 x 0.34 in).
I haven't been able to find any reviews or even suppliers for radiators this small. Does anyone know of any, particularly European suppliers?
I haven't been able to find any reviews or even suppliers for radiators this small. Does anyone know of any, particularly European suppliers?
Most basic Ian Canada setup
- By henrik2h
- Digital Line Level
- 9 Replies
Hi, stumbled upon this forum when searching for a new dac hat for pi. Maybe I am in the wrong place but am only looking for a rough opinion so I know if investigating further is worth it.
Was initially looking for an Allo Boss but found this gear from Ian Canada that looks promising. Somewhat hard to know exactly what I need to build the first and basic version of a dac with this. Would the enclosed 3 parts (and pi) be enough to have it functioning in a good way? Like the fact that it could be upgraded further on.
And second, and most important, would this be a "substantial" sound improvement over the Allo Boss if using average hifi gear (Hegel H80/Q Acou. 3020i)?
Was initially looking for an Allo Boss but found this gear from Ian Canada that looks promising. Somewhat hard to know exactly what I need to build the first and basic version of a dac with this. Would the enclosed 3 parts (and pi) be enough to have it functioning in a good way? Like the fact that it could be upgraded further on.
And second, and most important, would this be a "substantial" sound improvement over the Allo Boss if using average hifi gear (Hegel H80/Q Acou. 3020i)?
Iron Pre Essentials Kits For The DIYA Store - Register Your Interest
- Pass Labs
- 4555 Replies
The Iron Pre is now listed in the diyAudio store for anyone to purchase.
Until the 'Build Guide / Build Thread' is created, this post will contain all current schematics and notes for the Iron Pre sold through the diyAudio store. Check back frequently to ensure you have the latest files.
Sep 14 2023 - Below is what you're waiting for! See some awesome information and help from 6L6 on the SE build. A new thread and the guide using the web interface will be posted ... soon. Post #2291
Background
Hello Happy DIYers / Greedy Boyz!
I am thrilled to announce that Zen Mod's Iron Pre essentials kits will be offered in the DIYAudio store. This is not a group buy. You can learn more about the project in the thread linked below.
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/whats-wrong-with-the-kiss-boy.293169/
Highlights include matched Toshiba JFETs from Nelson Pass and high-nickel CineMag transformers. 6L6 has volunteered to post one of his incredible build guides also.
If you're a Smiths fan, you may ask, How Soon Is Now? They should be available for order before the end of the year. At this time, we have enough parts sourced for 100 SE and 50 balanced kits.
The next obvious question is, how much? Costing is not final yet, but the goal is $100 for the SE kits and $125 for the balanced kits; a tremendous bargain. We have contingencies for all the parts, and we hope that this will be a permanent addition to the store. However, for now, we can only promise what we've got. Get 'em while you can.
Click the link below to see what will be included in the kit, answer a few questions about what you might like to see in the future, and get on the list.
Note - The n-channel JFETs will be 2SK370.
Quick and Dirty Startup Process
This happens after: the boards are stuffed, the AC supply is verified and connected properly, and I/O has been connected. Nothing needs to be shorted. Note the additional step for the V4 SMD version.
4-May 2023
Edited 7-Aug 2023. All in-line photos have been removed. Please see attached files for all documentation.
5-May 2023
Updated Single-Ended BoM to correct 330R part notations in the gain stage to R28 and R29.
Attached are the Bill of Materials / Parts Lists - Note File Names for Balanced and SE
26 - May 2023
Updated SE and Balanced Bill of Materials to indicate that snubber components should not be installed.
Balanced BoM Filename - BOM_Store_Iron_Pre_Balanced_Dist_v5.pdf
SE BoM Filename - BOM_Store_Iron_Pre_SE_Dist_v5.pdf
27 - May 2023
Updated SE and Balanced Bill of Materials to correct and clearly note which diodes should be installed for input switching.
Balanced BoM Filename - BOM_Store_Iron_Pre_Balanced_Dist_v6.pdf
SE BoM Filename - BOM_Store_Iron_Pre_SE_Dist_v6.pdf
1 - June 2023
Note - No changes required. However, the packing lists some of you will receive may note LM336-5.0. That was a typo; apologies. The correct parts (as supplied and noted in the BoM) are LM336-2.5.
Removed the link to sign up indicating interest in kits. Those currently on the list will get first priority for the next round of kits. After that, they will be sold through the normal process through the store.
6 - June 2023
There are two gorgeous prototype chassis available; one designed specifically for SE, and one for Balanced. You can find some details in post #431. The depth for both chassis is 280mm. There is additional information sprinkled throughout the thread re: acceptable sizes and some potential part numbers for IECs, input / outputs etc. along with pictures of some examples. Please search first before asking chassis questions, and I'd recommend using the latest posts' information. Again, they are prototype chassis, and anything could change at any time until the design is finalized. The best source of information re: the chassis is directly from Modushop until they are sold in the diyAudio store. Timing TBD.
8 - June 2023
Added parts placement and pcb layouts for those interested.
30 - June 2023
V7 - Minor Updates to BoMs. QTY added. Ensure to check quantity per board against the quantity you need for your project. Added links to a popular online website to show examples of parts that will work for the connection between the main boards and the twister boards for input selection / LED power etc. Added generic descriptions for those that would prefer to select their own parts.
1 - July 2023
V8 - Minor Updates to BoMs. Added heatsinks for M3 if 12V relays are used.
7 - Aug 2023
I'm excited to say that more kits will be available very soon for 'round 2'. Continue checking this post (as always) and the thread overall for up to the minute updates.
In his graciousness, ZM has made some minor running changes. Changes are:
Boards that include the changes will note "2023" vs. "2021" on the silkscreen. The Twister board accompanying the 2023 boards notes V.3. Both 2021 and 2023 boards are included with 'round 2'. You cannot choose which you will receive, and you will not know which you will receive until they arrive. Do not fret if you get a kit with 2021 boards. If you need to use a particular type logic solution, there is a very easy modification previously noted in the thread, and the snubber is not necessary. The changes made were a kindness from ZM, but all 2021 boards can be made to function just like 2023 boards with a few user-tweaks described in the thread.
Note - The attachments have been packaged and note which files to choose for the respective boards. Previous attachments and in-line thumbnails / photos have been removed for clarity. The BoMs have been updated slightly for clarity.
9 - Aug 2023
There is a minor error on the silkscreen for the boards marked Iron Pre SE Zen Mod Labs 2023. The polarity notation for C11 visible when the cap is installed is incorrect. Ignore it.
13 - Aug 2023
His Mightiness created two graphics for how to wire standard pots for both SE and Balanced. Attached.
29 - Aug 2023
Minor updates to balanced BoMs. Removed reference to D15.
31 - Aug 2023
Added wiring diagram for AVC for SE. See post #2113 for context.
21 - June 2024
All testing for the Super Mega Deluxe version is complete. Kits will be back in the store 'soon'.
25 - September 2024
"Soon" is relative. 🙂. SMD kits are on sale. The schematics and files for the Super Mega Deluxe (SMD) have been attached in their appropriately named .zip files. Enjoy your builds.
26 - September 2024
A few people purchased the "completion" kits for the V3 and earlier boards and were wondering if they could be used for the V4 SMD kits. A lot of the parts are identical, but below is what you'll need in addition and to swap a few parts.
For balanced you will need:
4x additional 825R or 820R resistors - I like these Vishay BC 825R
8x 58R or 62R resistors - I like these Vishay BC 62R
4x 1R resistors - I like these Vishay BC 1R
8x 100R trimmers - I like these Bourns 3296 Series 100R Trimmers
4x 1uF film caps with 5mm or 15mm lead spacing - I like these TDK 1.0uF with 15mm Lead Spacing
For SE you will need:
2x additional 825R or 820R resistors - I like these Vishay BC 825R
4x 58R or 62R resistors - I like these Vishay BC 62R
2x 1R resistors - I like these Vishay BC 1R
4x 100R trimmers - I like these Bourns 3296 Series 100R Trimmers
2x 1uF film caps with 5mm or 15mm lead spacing - I like these TDK 1.0uF with 15mm Lead Spacing
27 - September 2024
Some potentially helpful additional parts in post #3784. If people have more helpful suggestions, I can add them.
3 - February 2025
Added diagrams for setting buffer current in V4 builds.
Until the 'Build Guide / Build Thread' is created, this post will contain all current schematics and notes for the Iron Pre sold through the diyAudio store. Check back frequently to ensure you have the latest files.
Sep 14 2023 - Below is what you're waiting for! See some awesome information and help from 6L6 on the SE build. A new thread and the guide using the web interface will be posted ... soon. Post #2291
Background
Hello Happy DIYers / Greedy Boyz!
I am thrilled to announce that Zen Mod's Iron Pre essentials kits will be offered in the DIYAudio store. This is not a group buy. You can learn more about the project in the thread linked below.
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/whats-wrong-with-the-kiss-boy.293169/
Highlights include matched Toshiba JFETs from Nelson Pass and high-nickel CineMag transformers. 6L6 has volunteered to post one of his incredible build guides also.
If you're a Smiths fan, you may ask, How Soon Is Now? They should be available for order before the end of the year. At this time, we have enough parts sourced for 100 SE and 50 balanced kits.
The next obvious question is, how much? Costing is not final yet, but the goal is $100 for the SE kits and $125 for the balanced kits; a tremendous bargain. We have contingencies for all the parts, and we hope that this will be a permanent addition to the store. However, for now, we can only promise what we've got. Get 'em while you can.
Note - The n-channel JFETs will be 2SK370.
Quick and Dirty Startup Process
This happens after: the boards are stuffed, the AC supply is verified and connected properly, and I/O has been connected. Nothing needs to be shorted. Note the additional step for the V4 SMD version.
- Set V+ and V-
Adjust P1 and P2 for each board until V+ is +15V0 and V- is -15V0
GND, V+ and V- pads are clearly marked on PCBs.
Do not move forward if you cannot adjust the voltages to within 0V1 or if the voltage seems unstable.
- For V4 SMD Only- Set current through JFETs
- Set DMM to DCmV.
- Place probes across R34 and R37 for SE or R40 and 41 for Balanced. You can also use square pads / test points near resistors.
- Turn P4 and P6 respectively until DMM reads 14mV +- 0.05mV - See schematic.
- Null DC offset
- SE
- No jumper caps in place for JP1 or JP2
- Measure at center pin of JP1 and JP2 NOT between those two pins*
- Turn P3 / P4 (V3 and earlier) or P3 / P5 (V4 SMD) respectively until voltage shows 0V +- 5mV
- Cap the jumpers for your choice of gain.
- Balanced
- No jumper caps on JP+ or JP-
- Measure at pin 1 of JP+ and JP- NOT between those two pins*
- Turn P3 / P4 (V3 and earlier) or P3 / P5 (V4 SMD) respectively until voltage shows 0V +- 5mV
- Cap the jumpers.
- SE
Do not move forward if you cannot null the offsets to less than +- 5mV
3. Sing Happy Tunes
*Measure at a particular point => Measure between that point and GND.
Updates4-May 2023
Edited 7-Aug 2023. All in-line photos have been removed. Please see attached files for all documentation.
5-May 2023
Updated Single-Ended BoM to correct 330R part notations in the gain stage to R28 and R29.
Attached are the Bill of Materials / Parts Lists - Note File Names for Balanced and SE
26 - May 2023
Updated SE and Balanced Bill of Materials to indicate that snubber components should not be installed.
Balanced BoM Filename - BOM_Store_Iron_Pre_Balanced_Dist_v5.pdf
SE BoM Filename - BOM_Store_Iron_Pre_SE_Dist_v5.pdf
27 - May 2023
Updated SE and Balanced Bill of Materials to correct and clearly note which diodes should be installed for input switching.
Balanced BoM Filename - BOM_Store_Iron_Pre_Balanced_Dist_v6.pdf
SE BoM Filename - BOM_Store_Iron_Pre_SE_Dist_v6.pdf
1 - June 2023
Note - No changes required. However, the packing lists some of you will receive may note LM336-5.0. That was a typo; apologies. The correct parts (as supplied and noted in the BoM) are LM336-2.5.
Removed the link to sign up indicating interest in kits. Those currently on the list will get first priority for the next round of kits. After that, they will be sold through the normal process through the store.
6 - June 2023
There are two gorgeous prototype chassis available; one designed specifically for SE, and one for Balanced. You can find some details in post #431. The depth for both chassis is 280mm. There is additional information sprinkled throughout the thread re: acceptable sizes and some potential part numbers for IECs, input / outputs etc. along with pictures of some examples. Please search first before asking chassis questions, and I'd recommend using the latest posts' information. Again, they are prototype chassis, and anything could change at any time until the design is finalized. The best source of information re: the chassis is directly from Modushop until they are sold in the diyAudio store. Timing TBD.
8 - June 2023
Added parts placement and pcb layouts for those interested.
30 - June 2023
V7 - Minor Updates to BoMs. QTY added. Ensure to check quantity per board against the quantity you need for your project. Added links to a popular online website to show examples of parts that will work for the connection between the main boards and the twister boards for input selection / LED power etc. Added generic descriptions for those that would prefer to select their own parts.
1 - July 2023
V8 - Minor Updates to BoMs. Added heatsinks for M3 if 12V relays are used.
7 - Aug 2023
I'm excited to say that more kits will be available very soon for 'round 2'. Continue checking this post (as always) and the thread overall for up to the minute updates.
In his graciousness, ZM has made some minor running changes. Changes are:
- Updated transformer snubber circuit.
- Easier positioning / mounting of the CineMag transformers in some situations.
- Changes to allow easier use of some logic circuits for input switching.
Boards that include the changes will note "2023" vs. "2021" on the silkscreen. The Twister board accompanying the 2023 boards notes V.3. Both 2021 and 2023 boards are included with 'round 2'. You cannot choose which you will receive, and you will not know which you will receive until they arrive. Do not fret if you get a kit with 2021 boards. If you need to use a particular type logic solution, there is a very easy modification previously noted in the thread, and the snubber is not necessary. The changes made were a kindness from ZM, but all 2021 boards can be made to function just like 2023 boards with a few user-tweaks described in the thread.
Note - The attachments have been packaged and note which files to choose for the respective boards. Previous attachments and in-line thumbnails / photos have been removed for clarity. The BoMs have been updated slightly for clarity.
9 - Aug 2023
There is a minor error on the silkscreen for the boards marked Iron Pre SE Zen Mod Labs 2023. The polarity notation for C11 visible when the cap is installed is incorrect. Ignore it.
13 - Aug 2023
His Mightiness created two graphics for how to wire standard pots for both SE and Balanced. Attached.
29 - Aug 2023
Minor updates to balanced BoMs. Removed reference to D15.
31 - Aug 2023
Added wiring diagram for AVC for SE. See post #2113 for context.
21 - June 2024
All testing for the Super Mega Deluxe version is complete. Kits will be back in the store 'soon'.
25 - September 2024
"Soon" is relative. 🙂. SMD kits are on sale. The schematics and files for the Super Mega Deluxe (SMD) have been attached in their appropriately named .zip files. Enjoy your builds.
26 - September 2024
A few people purchased the "completion" kits for the V3 and earlier boards and were wondering if they could be used for the V4 SMD kits. A lot of the parts are identical, but below is what you'll need in addition and to swap a few parts.
For balanced you will need:
4x additional 825R or 820R resistors - I like these Vishay BC 825R
8x 58R or 62R resistors - I like these Vishay BC 62R
4x 1R resistors - I like these Vishay BC 1R
8x 100R trimmers - I like these Bourns 3296 Series 100R Trimmers
4x 1uF film caps with 5mm or 15mm lead spacing - I like these TDK 1.0uF with 15mm Lead Spacing
For SE you will need:
2x additional 825R or 820R resistors - I like these Vishay BC 825R
4x 58R or 62R resistors - I like these Vishay BC 62R
2x 1R resistors - I like these Vishay BC 1R
4x 100R trimmers - I like these Bourns 3296 Series 100R Trimmers
2x 1uF film caps with 5mm or 15mm lead spacing - I like these TDK 1.0uF with 15mm Lead Spacing
27 - September 2024
Some potentially helpful additional parts in post #3784. If people have more helpful suggestions, I can add them.
3 - February 2025
Added diagrams for setting buffer current in V4 builds.
Attachments
Volcano Soundsystem - my flight ready mini Disco/DJ rig build
- PA Systems
- 9 Replies
Hello all. I have been trying to get a small soundsystem together for a while, without being able to make much traction on the project. Mainly due to time constraints and a lot of muddle over the config of such a system. I made many plans and acquired a bunch of parts and equipment for the new system, but it has been difficult to find an optimum due to the following requirements
Extremely portable, to flight ready
Weather resistance, some marine environment ability required
A bit of independence ability from fixed power points
Bass heavy sound
Wireless where able
Multizone compatibility
Live mics and instruments ability
Karaoke
The music is classic and modern Bollywood and West Indian
It took a while for me to note that where I needed environmental protection, the gig was smaller and with a much smaller range of inputs. I have decided to make it a pool of gear that I can mix and match for my needs. I have also had to consider some ready rolled gear instead of all DIY to neatly meet the requirements
Speakers
This is where I am trying something different. The JBL BB3 has sufficient output for the smallest gigs that I do. I acquired a Zealot S89, which appears to be similarly built as the BB3 and contains the same Racer8 driver that I have been messing with. The internal speaker setup is 2.1 with the mains section containing tweeter and midbass two-ways. I have been trying this one out over the last few days and the output is tremendous for something this small. The sound is clean and bass is forward and powerful. Battery life is impressive too. From full charge, the unit lasted a night, day and a night before turning itself off. This was at my regular indoor listening levels. Charge time seems good. My laptop USB-C charger works very well. I timed 6hrs charging time with a regular 5v2A charger and the laptop charger was lot faster, but I wasn't home to get the exact number this time
As is, the S89 will be ample for the porch, garage, deck and boat deck parties. No wires to tape up, trip up on, or pack and unpack. This connects to one of the BT TX fobs. This unit will face me as monitors while supplying the bass for the rest of the BT system. For the mains, I have bought two Zealot S97 units. These will face the floor and connect to the second BT TX fob and operate in TWS with each other. The S89 will be either used on the DJ desk or on the floor in the floor play area if I am mixing a baithak crew. This is a stop gap until I have a better solution here. Anyone who followed my Club Sandwich attempt will be familiar with this issue
I have picked up a further Zealot S51 pair to use as desk monitors for when I have the S89 on the floor. I have to get one more BT TX fob to add the console's headphone out to connect to these in TWS. One end of these speakers is designed as a base to stand the speaker up. It also contains a downward firing PR as well as an upward firing PR on the other end. Btw, the other models also contain dual PR units. I have some red stretchy nylon fabric and sew up some drawstring rucksacks for these speakers. They fit will in my booked of 4x 23kg and 4x 7kg luggage allocations. These are 100L heavy-duty duffels except for a couple of hard shells for the electronics in 7kg carry on allocations. The gear doesn't take up all of those bags
In an earlier attempt, I picked up a pair of DS18 Pro-zt69 coaxes. These are quite efficient, and I am considering tapping the tweeter and woofer wires from the S89 to drive the coaxes as active two-ways. I am reasoning that the powerful lil amp and battery inside the S89 will drive the coaxes a lot louder. To this end, I have been preparing a pair of cabs for the coaxes. I have a pair of SBA racer type PR units that may suit these cabs and coaxes too for a 60-70hz tune. At the moment the cabs are sealed types and 11L internal volume each
For external subs, I am considering a PA 18 with 4R+4R DVC and neodymium mag to reduce weight in a custom composite cab. The subwoofer amp inside the S89 sees a 2R load from a very inefficient driver. I hope that I am correct in reasoning that I can get much louder output with an 18 with coils in parallel. Tuned to the same 40Hz or so as the S89, so as not to upset any DSP filters already in use in that
If I am careful with the tapping, I should be able to retain most of the weather resistance of the unit for when it is used as is and with external speakers, I am hoping for much greater output
For local use with mains power supply, the external speakers will run off proper class d power amps. These are already acquired too
Experimental stuff
The 18" external sub thing will happen later on. Along with the coaxes, I am also building a cab for my DS18 ZR12.4D driver. This is not quite as huge as the ZXI 12" but still substantial. Will fit in my baggage allocations too for the trip coming up. For this trip, I will AB the Zealots vs the coaxes+ZR12.4D. Won't tamper with the Zealots just yet, so will run the external speakers with class d modules
The sources
A Dynabook Protégé for laptop. A Roland DJ-202 as controller and Serato DJ pro with full plugins and expansions bundle. A two into one wireless mic pair for the mic input on the DJ-202. This is my basic source setup for DJ, remix and karaoke
A Yamaha MG12XU console for accommodating more mics and instruments. A further one to one wireless mic pair for vocals from the console. This lot of flight ready sources are topped off with an Akai MPK Mini Mk3 Plus for some keys to complement the Roland TR drums built into the DJ-202
For local use, a Roland JDXI synth and a Roland MX-1 mixer completes the set
I have added two Bluetooth transmitter units to this lot. They are placed on the main and monitor outs of whichever mixer is feeding the PA
Party gear
A fog machine/disco light combo. UV black lights. LED party lights and rope lights. UV reflective backdrops. Projector and screen. Stand for mounting projector and lights
Support gear
Two powerbanks with fold out solar panels. Another pair of smaller powerbanks for the LEDs. USB hub with multiple monitor support. Laptop USB-C charger for the car to top all the things up as backup
I am sure there are some things that I am forgetting to list or missed entirely
Extremely portable, to flight ready
Weather resistance, some marine environment ability required
A bit of independence ability from fixed power points
Bass heavy sound
Wireless where able
Multizone compatibility
Live mics and instruments ability
Karaoke
The music is classic and modern Bollywood and West Indian
It took a while for me to note that where I needed environmental protection, the gig was smaller and with a much smaller range of inputs. I have decided to make it a pool of gear that I can mix and match for my needs. I have also had to consider some ready rolled gear instead of all DIY to neatly meet the requirements
Speakers
This is where I am trying something different. The JBL BB3 has sufficient output for the smallest gigs that I do. I acquired a Zealot S89, which appears to be similarly built as the BB3 and contains the same Racer8 driver that I have been messing with. The internal speaker setup is 2.1 with the mains section containing tweeter and midbass two-ways. I have been trying this one out over the last few days and the output is tremendous for something this small. The sound is clean and bass is forward and powerful. Battery life is impressive too. From full charge, the unit lasted a night, day and a night before turning itself off. This was at my regular indoor listening levels. Charge time seems good. My laptop USB-C charger works very well. I timed 6hrs charging time with a regular 5v2A charger and the laptop charger was lot faster, but I wasn't home to get the exact number this time
As is, the S89 will be ample for the porch, garage, deck and boat deck parties. No wires to tape up, trip up on, or pack and unpack. This connects to one of the BT TX fobs. This unit will face me as monitors while supplying the bass for the rest of the BT system. For the mains, I have bought two Zealot S97 units. These will face the floor and connect to the second BT TX fob and operate in TWS with each other. The S89 will be either used on the DJ desk or on the floor in the floor play area if I am mixing a baithak crew. This is a stop gap until I have a better solution here. Anyone who followed my Club Sandwich attempt will be familiar with this issue
I have picked up a further Zealot S51 pair to use as desk monitors for when I have the S89 on the floor. I have to get one more BT TX fob to add the console's headphone out to connect to these in TWS. One end of these speakers is designed as a base to stand the speaker up. It also contains a downward firing PR as well as an upward firing PR on the other end. Btw, the other models also contain dual PR units. I have some red stretchy nylon fabric and sew up some drawstring rucksacks for these speakers. They fit will in my booked of 4x 23kg and 4x 7kg luggage allocations. These are 100L heavy-duty duffels except for a couple of hard shells for the electronics in 7kg carry on allocations. The gear doesn't take up all of those bags
In an earlier attempt, I picked up a pair of DS18 Pro-zt69 coaxes. These are quite efficient, and I am considering tapping the tweeter and woofer wires from the S89 to drive the coaxes as active two-ways. I am reasoning that the powerful lil amp and battery inside the S89 will drive the coaxes a lot louder. To this end, I have been preparing a pair of cabs for the coaxes. I have a pair of SBA racer type PR units that may suit these cabs and coaxes too for a 60-70hz tune. At the moment the cabs are sealed types and 11L internal volume each
For external subs, I am considering a PA 18 with 4R+4R DVC and neodymium mag to reduce weight in a custom composite cab. The subwoofer amp inside the S89 sees a 2R load from a very inefficient driver. I hope that I am correct in reasoning that I can get much louder output with an 18 with coils in parallel. Tuned to the same 40Hz or so as the S89, so as not to upset any DSP filters already in use in that
If I am careful with the tapping, I should be able to retain most of the weather resistance of the unit for when it is used as is and with external speakers, I am hoping for much greater output
For local use with mains power supply, the external speakers will run off proper class d power amps. These are already acquired too
Experimental stuff
The 18" external sub thing will happen later on. Along with the coaxes, I am also building a cab for my DS18 ZR12.4D driver. This is not quite as huge as the ZXI 12" but still substantial. Will fit in my baggage allocations too for the trip coming up. For this trip, I will AB the Zealots vs the coaxes+ZR12.4D. Won't tamper with the Zealots just yet, so will run the external speakers with class d modules
The sources
A Dynabook Protégé for laptop. A Roland DJ-202 as controller and Serato DJ pro with full plugins and expansions bundle. A two into one wireless mic pair for the mic input on the DJ-202. This is my basic source setup for DJ, remix and karaoke
A Yamaha MG12XU console for accommodating more mics and instruments. A further one to one wireless mic pair for vocals from the console. This lot of flight ready sources are topped off with an Akai MPK Mini Mk3 Plus for some keys to complement the Roland TR drums built into the DJ-202
For local use, a Roland JDXI synth and a Roland MX-1 mixer completes the set
I have added two Bluetooth transmitter units to this lot. They are placed on the main and monitor outs of whichever mixer is feeding the PA
Party gear
A fog machine/disco light combo. UV black lights. LED party lights and rope lights. UV reflective backdrops. Projector and screen. Stand for mounting projector and lights
Support gear
Two powerbanks with fold out solar panels. Another pair of smaller powerbanks for the LEDs. USB hub with multiple monitor support. Laptop USB-C charger for the car to top all the things up as backup
I am sure there are some things that I am forgetting to list or missed entirely
-
Poll
Cello Palette Style EQ Design (was High End Tone Control)...
- By ThorstenL
- Analog Line Level
- 479 Replies
Folks,
At the other thread I noticed interest in what may be called a "functional clone" of the Cello palette. Please review the High End Tone Control thread for background information and the options discussed:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/analog-line-level/194119-high-end-tone-control.html
The Palette is best described as a Stereo Mastering EQ designed for easy and intuitive use by non-engineers (most EQ's need operators with at least two degrees and many years of experience to get suitable results). One way to describe the actions of the six controls of the Palette approximately is:
Bass [20Hz]
Drum [120Hz]
Lower Voice [500Hz]
Presence [2Khz]
Rasp [5KHz]
Air [20KHz]
Control ranges are 'weighted' so that any changes for a given rotation in for example the "presence" band are much smaller than the "bass" band, relating directly to the behaviour of the human hearing. The Palette has possibly more adjustment range than is beneficial and due to a number of factors a true clone is jut not a sensible option nor is it necessary.
Here the original:
In principle we can realise something that follows most of the Palette design brief using any technology we care to apply, so much is established.
However "Vita brevis, ars longa" dictate that we cannot spend time, effort and money on making a Palette functional clone with each and every available technology and then to let everyone choose which design suits them best.
So for starters we set the following outline for the actual EQ function:
Centre frequencies:
20Hz +/- 12 ... 18dB
120Hz +/- 6 ... 9dB
500Hz +/- 3 ... 5.5dB
2KHz +/- 3 ... 5.5dB
5KHz +/- 6 ... 9dB
20KHz +/- 12 ... 18dB
We can make bands somewhat adjustable using switches if desired.
Adjustment range is open to some debate as well.
Controls should be able to use generally available potentiometers but can be implemented also with rotary switches.
If we limit ourselves to 24-Pole switches (actually 23 Poles usable) this gives us +/- 11 positions for boost/cut.
This suggests 0.4dB steps for the innermost bands (so +/- 4.4dB), 0.8dB steps for the intermediate bands (so +/- 8.8dB) and 1.2dB steps for the extreme bands (so +/- 13.2dB).
If these items are agreeable we can proceed to select the electronic circuitry, here is where the poll comes in. If you are interested in this analogue (re)mastering EQ project, please vote in the poll on the technology to be used. the poll is multi-choice to perhaps vote 1st & 2nd choice...
Ciao T
At the other thread I noticed interest in what may be called a "functional clone" of the Cello palette. Please review the High End Tone Control thread for background information and the options discussed:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/analog-line-level/194119-high-end-tone-control.html
The Palette is best described as a Stereo Mastering EQ designed for easy and intuitive use by non-engineers (most EQ's need operators with at least two degrees and many years of experience to get suitable results). One way to describe the actions of the six controls of the Palette approximately is:
Bass [20Hz]
Drum [120Hz]
Lower Voice [500Hz]
Presence [2Khz]
Rasp [5KHz]
Air [20KHz]
Control ranges are 'weighted' so that any changes for a given rotation in for example the "presence" band are much smaller than the "bass" band, relating directly to the behaviour of the human hearing. The Palette has possibly more adjustment range than is beneficial and due to a number of factors a true clone is jut not a sensible option nor is it necessary.
Here the original:
In principle we can realise something that follows most of the Palette design brief using any technology we care to apply, so much is established.
However "Vita brevis, ars longa" dictate that we cannot spend time, effort and money on making a Palette functional clone with each and every available technology and then to let everyone choose which design suits them best.
So for starters we set the following outline for the actual EQ function:
Centre frequencies:
20Hz +/- 12 ... 18dB
120Hz +/- 6 ... 9dB
500Hz +/- 3 ... 5.5dB
2KHz +/- 3 ... 5.5dB
5KHz +/- 6 ... 9dB
20KHz +/- 12 ... 18dB
We can make bands somewhat adjustable using switches if desired.
Adjustment range is open to some debate as well.
Controls should be able to use generally available potentiometers but can be implemented also with rotary switches.
If we limit ourselves to 24-Pole switches (actually 23 Poles usable) this gives us +/- 11 positions for boost/cut.
This suggests 0.4dB steps for the innermost bands (so +/- 4.4dB), 0.8dB steps for the intermediate bands (so +/- 8.8dB) and 1.2dB steps for the extreme bands (so +/- 13.2dB).
If these items are agreeable we can proceed to select the electronic circuitry, here is where the poll comes in. If you are interested in this analogue (re)mastering EQ project, please vote in the poll on the technology to be used. the poll is multi-choice to perhaps vote 1st & 2nd choice...
Ciao T
For Sale 8x AVX 100F 2.7V Super Caps
AVX SCCW45B107SSB Super Caps
100F
2.7V
ESR 8mOhm
Lot of 8
€30
Other ads:
100F
2.7V
ESR 8mOhm
Lot of 8
€30
Other ads:
How does this horn/waveguide work?
- Planars & Exotics
- 0 Replies
From https://audiohorn.net/tweeter-waveguide/
It looks like a normal phase plug we see in smaller 1 inch voice coil compression drivers with 1 inch throat.
A cloth/silk dome tweeter works in breaks up mode, how can a horn/waveguide produce a plane wave?
Can somebody please explain what is happening? @Patrick Bateman
Thanks and Regards,
WonderfulAudio
It looks like a normal phase plug we see in smaller 1 inch voice coil compression drivers with 1 inch throat.
A cloth/silk dome tweeter works in breaks up mode, how can a horn/waveguide produce a plane wave?
Can somebody please explain what is happening? @Patrick Bateman
Thanks and Regards,
WonderfulAudio
What are "Symmetrical Drive" woofers?
I have been on the hunt for some good woofers. In the range of 30-500 hz. I keep coming across something called "symmetrical drive".
Maybe someone can answer these questions:
The dampers in your car affect handling and comfort. You want more handling? You go stiffer, then you lose comfort. You want better comfort? You go softer, you lose handling. That is unless you have better technology like a digressive shock. Better comfort with basically no drawback in handling. The trade is higher cost. Is symmetrical drive this same concept?
As far as I can tell tell, there are only 3 companies that use symmetrical drive. This first is Scanspeak with their revelator and illuminator lines. The other two, allegedly, employ designers that left Scanspeak. SB acoustics with their Satori line and Wavecor with their higher end lineup of woofers.
The final question becomes: Is it worth it?
Lets compare two drivers:
This Wavecor has a regular drive and is $120
For $51 more you can get a symmetrical drive.
Clearly this isn't a one to one. But I am wondering how much more you get. Is it a huge difference? Or is it just a "nice to have"
Maybe someone can answer these questions:
- What exactly is it?
- How does it work?
- What is its benefit?
- What brands/lineups use it?
- Is it more advantageous in one octave over some others? Or is just just plain better?
The dampers in your car affect handling and comfort. You want more handling? You go stiffer, then you lose comfort. You want better comfort? You go softer, you lose handling. That is unless you have better technology like a digressive shock. Better comfort with basically no drawback in handling. The trade is higher cost. Is symmetrical drive this same concept?
As far as I can tell tell, there are only 3 companies that use symmetrical drive. This first is Scanspeak with their revelator and illuminator lines. The other two, allegedly, employ designers that left Scanspeak. SB acoustics with their Satori line and Wavecor with their higher end lineup of woofers.
The final question becomes: Is it worth it?
Lets compare two drivers:
This Wavecor has a regular drive and is $120
For $51 more you can get a symmetrical drive.
Clearly this isn't a one to one. But I am wondering how much more you get. Is it a huge difference? Or is it just a "nice to have"
For Sale Andrea Mori PPG 22/24MHz clocks, OPA861 x17, DIR9001 x8, Various Trafos
Clearing out some bits and seeing if there is any interest
TWTMC-PPG-XO-22/24 MHz
22. 5792 MHz & 24. 576 MHz Pierce pico gate oscillators pair
SOLD
8x DIR9001 SPDIF Receiver chips
€15
17x OPA861 Transconductance Amp chips
€18
Triad Magnetics VPT12-8330
115Vx2 to 2x6V 100VA Toroid
Wires have been cut shorter, no mounting hardware.
€25
Triad Magnetics VPT12-23800
115Vx2 to 2x6V 250VA Toroid
Wires have been cut shorter, no mounting hardware.
€50
Triad Magnetics VPS24-5400
115Vx2 to 2x12V 130VA EI core
€25
Noratel TA250/18
115Vx2 to 2x18V 125VA Toroid
Wires have been cut shorter, no mounting hardware.
€40
Other Ads:
22. 5792 MHz & 24. 576 MHz Pierce pico gate oscillators pair
SOLD
8x DIR9001 SPDIF Receiver chips
€15
17x OPA861 Transconductance Amp chips
€18
Triad Magnetics VPT12-8330
115Vx2 to 2x6V 100VA Toroid
Wires have been cut shorter, no mounting hardware.
€25
Triad Magnetics VPT12-23800
115Vx2 to 2x6V 250VA Toroid
Wires have been cut shorter, no mounting hardware.
€50
Triad Magnetics VPS24-5400
115Vx2 to 2x12V 130VA EI core
€25
Noratel TA250/18
115Vx2 to 2x18V 125VA Toroid
Wires have been cut shorter, no mounting hardware.
€40
Other Ads:
For Sale Triad Magnetics 1000 VA, 2 x 115 V, 2 x 50 V Transformer
Hi All,
New transformer for sale, Triad 1000 VA, 2 x 115 V, 2 x 50 V. Model VPT100-10000. https://catalog.triadmagnetics.com/Asset/VPT100-10000.pdf
Please PM.
Regards,
VS
New transformer for sale, Triad 1000 VA, 2 x 115 V, 2 x 50 V. Model VPT100-10000. https://catalog.triadmagnetics.com/Asset/VPT100-10000.pdf
Please PM.
Regards,
VS
RCA Jan 813 VT-144 tubes , any good ?
- By TheFinisher
- Tubes / Valves
- 10 Replies
I have 6 of these above very big tubes ,
Are they useable for hifi ?
Are they useable for hifi ?
Attachments
Master Nagaoka Tetsuo explorations on matrixed single stereo speakers
- By Elias
- Full Range
- 219 Replies
Hello and how do you do !
A few years ago I presented the theory and operation of matrixed single stereo loudspeaker
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/200040-stereophonic-sound-single-loudspeaker.html
Just recently I discovered that late Nagaoka has left us with a huge heritage of single stereo matrix loudspeakers
Basically he used two kind of matrixes. For 3 and for 4 elements.
The 4 element matrix looks like this:
Notice that this is MS matrix. The front elements sum acoustically to form L+R signal.
hkjunk0.web.fc2.com/hobby/audio/matrix_db/matrix02.jpg
And the 3 element matrix is like this:
We can see it is the famous x=0.5 matrix 😀 (Notice though the left amplifier channel negative terminal is left unconnected, possibly to avoid a ground loop?)
hkjunk0.web.fc2.com/hobby/audio/matrix_db/matrix03.jpg
{HIRO}'s Website!! - matrix_db1
(edit: those hkjunk images are pain to see online, just copy the link to an empty window)
.
A few years ago I presented the theory and operation of matrixed single stereo loudspeaker
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/200040-stereophonic-sound-single-loudspeaker.html
Just recently I discovered that late Nagaoka has left us with a huge heritage of single stereo matrix loudspeakers
Basically he used two kind of matrixes. For 3 and for 4 elements.
The 4 element matrix looks like this:
Notice that this is MS matrix. The front elements sum acoustically to form L+R signal.
hkjunk0.web.fc2.com/hobby/audio/matrix_db/matrix02.jpg
And the 3 element matrix is like this:
We can see it is the famous x=0.5 matrix 😀 (Notice though the left amplifier channel negative terminal is left unconnected, possibly to avoid a ground loop?)
hkjunk0.web.fc2.com/hobby/audio/matrix_db/matrix03.jpg
{HIRO}'s Website!! - matrix_db1
(edit: those hkjunk images are pain to see online, just copy the link to an empty window)
.
Attachments
Yet another MEH Synergy project
- By Speedysteve7
- Multi-Way
- 230 Replies
Time to fess up, I've been reading and learning about the Danley originals and inspired clones for a good while now.
So much info and help here and online.
Very inspiring.
I decided to make one, to start with.
Lots of measuring what's online, drawing and scaling and plenty of thinking.
I took the plunge and decided to make a prototype.
As this is for a domestic room test, I decided to to go with one 12" woofer and two 5" MIDs + HF compression driver.
Flares on and rounding / smoothing started.
Primed to help see the imperfections.
I spend a lot of time ensuring a smooth throat transition from perfect 1" to 4 sided conical.
I've always found this to be critical on my other horn creations -
12 sided conicals, tractrix and Le Cléac'h diy horns.
Drivers from the top down:
HF; BMS 4550 - need to introduce this one🙂
MF; 2 X Celestion 5" sealed back.
Not the Misco ones I would have liked!
I did message Misco but didn't hear back.. yet.
LF; single Eminence Kappa 12A
These have served me very well in my mid bass 100Hz to 400Hz hyperbolic horns. No need to buy more either.
This was a trial fitting
I decided the conical to flares needed more smoothing..
Happier with that.
Having used cheap as chips chipboard, I decided to sheet them with some leftover sound deadening sheeting.
Result, pretty dead!
These won't be going very loud, so should be good.
Making the rear enclosure for the bass reflex part took time.
Overall quite compact and easy to carry the pieces up to my music loft room.
When compared to all the hardware of the other horns.
3 round horns and 1 tweeter replaced by 1 synergy!
I then did a quick dial in, very easy to do in Najda DSP.
Set up the X/Os, quick time / phase alignment to the tapped horn.
Dialed in the SPLs.
Notch PEQ on the BMS 4550 at 2200Hz
I will spend much time dialling in, trying different X/O slopes. Aiming for nice phase plot.
Quick setup plot from the listening position.
(Ignore the 25Hz bump, that's the tapped horn - it's the way I like it, gives huge scale and energy to church organ and electronica etc 🙂).
The trail off of HF really isn't noticeable from the chair! There's relatively speaking plenty of HF action, for me!
So, how did it compare?
Very interesting!
Listening in mono, one side to the other, the sound coverage of the room is amazing.
You get the pretty much the same sound no matter where you are!
Not so the old 5 way side! It's the listening chair, or nowhere!
I had to boost the mid bass SPL to get better balance and more drive, to my taste. The Crown amp and Kappa 12A are up to the job.
It's not a bad sound at all!
I could tell by how easy it was to dial in and how flat the individual drivers frequency responses were, that it would be promising from the off.
Funny how you can tell something will sound okay from hearing the frequency sweeps - when you've heard enough I guess🙂
Surprising balanced and detailed overall impression.
Mid bass is good, not slow or bloated, fast and nice timbre.
I guess the mid drivers are not run in?
They sound pretty good though. Not in your face, or too passive.
The HF driver, do compression drivers run in?
It actually competes with the 5 way side very well.
I would like to build a SM60F style next..
Even more hifi room friendly!
Just got to figure out an elegant way to channel HF / MF from the coaxial driver.
I will now spend time dialling and positioning, whist I plot/ plan the SM60 alike.
Questions: should the woofer sealed rear chamber volume be the same if you only use one driver?
What X/O slopes would sound best?
I started with 8th order LF high pass (matches the tapped horn),
4th order all else?
So much info and help here and online.
Very inspiring.
I decided to make one, to start with.
Lots of measuring what's online, drawing and scaling and plenty of thinking.
I took the plunge and decided to make a prototype.
As this is for a domestic room test, I decided to to go with one 12" woofer and two 5" MIDs + HF compression driver.
Flares on and rounding / smoothing started.
Primed to help see the imperfections.
I spend a lot of time ensuring a smooth throat transition from perfect 1" to 4 sided conical.
I've always found this to be critical on my other horn creations -
12 sided conicals, tractrix and Le Cléac'h diy horns.
Drivers from the top down:
HF; BMS 4550 - need to introduce this one🙂
MF; 2 X Celestion 5" sealed back.
Not the Misco ones I would have liked!
I did message Misco but didn't hear back.. yet.
LF; single Eminence Kappa 12A
These have served me very well in my mid bass 100Hz to 400Hz hyperbolic horns. No need to buy more either.
This was a trial fitting
I decided the conical to flares needed more smoothing..
Happier with that.
Having used cheap as chips chipboard, I decided to sheet them with some leftover sound deadening sheeting.
Result, pretty dead!
These won't be going very loud, so should be good.
Making the rear enclosure for the bass reflex part took time.
Overall quite compact and easy to carry the pieces up to my music loft room.
When compared to all the hardware of the other horns.
3 round horns and 1 tweeter replaced by 1 synergy!
I then did a quick dial in, very easy to do in Najda DSP.
Set up the X/Os, quick time / phase alignment to the tapped horn.
Dialed in the SPLs.
Notch PEQ on the BMS 4550 at 2200Hz
I will spend much time dialling in, trying different X/O slopes. Aiming for nice phase plot.
Quick setup plot from the listening position.
(Ignore the 25Hz bump, that's the tapped horn - it's the way I like it, gives huge scale and energy to church organ and electronica etc 🙂).
The trail off of HF really isn't noticeable from the chair! There's relatively speaking plenty of HF action, for me!
So, how did it compare?
Very interesting!
Listening in mono, one side to the other, the sound coverage of the room is amazing.
You get the pretty much the same sound no matter where you are!
Not so the old 5 way side! It's the listening chair, or nowhere!
I had to boost the mid bass SPL to get better balance and more drive, to my taste. The Crown amp and Kappa 12A are up to the job.
It's not a bad sound at all!
I could tell by how easy it was to dial in and how flat the individual drivers frequency responses were, that it would be promising from the off.
Funny how you can tell something will sound okay from hearing the frequency sweeps - when you've heard enough I guess🙂
Surprising balanced and detailed overall impression.
Mid bass is good, not slow or bloated, fast and nice timbre.
I guess the mid drivers are not run in?
They sound pretty good though. Not in your face, or too passive.
The HF driver, do compression drivers run in?
It actually competes with the 5 way side very well.
I would like to build a SM60F style next..
Even more hifi room friendly!
Just got to figure out an elegant way to channel HF / MF from the coaxial driver.
I will now spend time dialling and positioning, whist I plot/ plan the SM60 alike.
Questions: should the woofer sealed rear chamber volume be the same if you only use one driver?
What X/O slopes would sound best?
I started with 8th order LF high pass (matches the tapped horn),
4th order all else?
Open Baffle + Bass Reflex HYBRID
- Multi-Way
- 187 Replies
The Flanagangsters
A Heretical Reflex+Open Baffle Hybrid
Constant Directivity, 96dB SPL, 300 Watts, 35Hz-20KHz
Crafted from Live Edge Wood
(re-posted from https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/ultimate-open-baffle-gallery.123512/post-7216744)
A Heretical Reflex+Open Baffle Hybrid
Constant Directivity, 96dB SPL, 300 Watts, 35Hz-20KHz
Crafted from Live Edge Wood
(re-posted from https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/ultimate-open-baffle-gallery.123512/post-7216744)
This design is Bass Reflex below 100Hz and Open Baffle above 100Hz, using one 12” woofer as a Point Source bass and the other as a Dipole Midrange. It combines the stage, imaging and open sound of Open Baffle with the bass and power output of a reflex.
Is this heresy? To a Dipole purist, undoubtedly so. But it delivers a huge un-boxy stereo image with the bass punch of a traditional ported design.
I’m proud of the polar response spectrum, it exhibits excellent Constant Directivity from 150Hz to 20KHz; it has -6dB points at about 45 degrees off axis, very consistently from 200Hz on up. Notice that even at 20KHz the pattern doesn't narrow much; this is because of the waveguide:
Frequency response at 0, 15, 30, 45, 60, 75 and 90 degrees off axis:
1/6 octave curve at 0 15 30 45 60 75 degrees:
The above measurement doesn’t capture the bass output of the port. Here is the measured response of the port + lower woofer.
I made these for my friend Jeremy Flanagan who loved the Bitches Brew Live Edge Dipoles but needed something much smaller and more economical. These deliver 80% of the performance for 20% of the cost. I wanted these to have the luxurious room-filling sound of Open Baffles but be capable of functioning as “party speakers” when called upon to do so.
The woofers are Dayton PA310s with 96dB SPL sensitivity and 3-inch voice coils. The lower woofer operates from 35Hz to 100Hz in a 40-liter reflex tuned to 42Hz. The upper woofer operates as a midrange from 100Hz to 2KHz in open baffle configuration.
Front tweeter: Audax TW034X0 34mm classic soft domes matched to Troels Graveson waveguides. (http://www.troelsgravesen.dk)
Rear tweeter: Peerless by Tymphany BC25SC08-04 1" Silk Dome Neodymium Tweeter
Crossover & Digital Signal Processing is handled by a MiniDSP 2x4HD with FIR time correction for linear phase. Configuration files: https://tinyurl.com/flanagangsterfiles
Some readers will be puzzled as to my unorthodox choice of using two identical 12” woofers, one as a midrange and the other for bass. I chose the Dayton PA310 for its high sensitivity and for its suitability for a DSP assisted reflex alignment in a small box, and because of its ultra-smooth midrange requiring very little help from the crossover.
The woofer has 5mm Xmax. This would fall far short of what’s necessary in an Open Baffle, but 5mm is plenty in a reflex, especially since the DSP filters out frequencies below 35Hz using a high-Q shelf filter. There is surprisingly little excursion at high volumes, and plus it doubles as an excellent midrange. And even with the small baffle size, the 12” dipole midrange effectively operates down to 100Hz.
This is the simulated reflex alignment of the woofer:
Below is the MiniDSP EQ correction curve for the woofer – notice the 9dB of bass boost at 40Hz which complements the above curve and renders the system flat to 35Hz:
Everyone is going to ask how the Dipole-Reflex hybrid sounds. Well, it sounds like normal low bass of course but with the very low crossover point of 100Hz to full dipole midrange, these sound more like dipoles than box speakers. They most emphatically do not sound “boxy,” and they have that huge, wide, lush imaging that Open Baffle designs are famous for.
NOTE: I used Precision Port 4” diameter ports (large diameter ports are absolutely essential to prevent power compression and chuffing). Since there’s so little room on the inside of the smallish box, I had to cut the inside port flare with a jigsaw to leave enough space to install the bottom woofer. Port length is 12 inches which tunes it to 42Hz.
The 100Hz crossover is a 6dB/octave "series" configuration instead of the conventional parallel. It has better impedance interactions. This curve shows the drive signal of the 12" midrange, which is much steeper below 100Hz than a standard parallel design would be:
The blue curve is the input signal to the whole system, and the green curve is the voltage measured at the terminals of the midrange. The impedance curve of the woofer is being turned "upside down" and being impressed on the midrange. This is reducing the output of the midrange at 20Hz and 60Hz, which is desirable. A standard parallel network would impress the midrange's impedance curve "right side up" on the response, which would be undesirable.
Schematic:
The LC circuit on the woofers is a 100Hz "series style" crossover. The capacitor on the TW034X0 is just for protection; the 10uF capacitor on the Peerless tweeter rolls it off at about 3K because I have concerns about driving it at lower frequencies. The rest of the crossover action is in the DSP.
Seth's CAD drawing:
My original sketch:
The tweeter, an Audax TW034X0, is one of the longest-in-production tweeters in existence. First introduced in the late 1970s, it’s used in the BBC LS5/9 and many other designs. It’s a famous mid-tweeter and when used conventionally (without waveguide) it’s a solid competent driver that gets slightly beamy in the high end, with 93dB sensitivity and response up to 16KHz.
However, when used with the Troels Graveson waveguide, sensitivity jumps to ~98dB and is no longer beamy in the top octave. The waveguide renders it a true Constant Directivity device. I use the DSP crossover to 1) establish a 2000Hz cutoff, 2) apply FIR filters for linear phase, and 3) extend the high end out to 20KHz.
The Audax 34mm tweeter has a round, soft, mellow sound with no listener fatigue whatsoever. It won’t appeal to people who prefer the etched hyper-detailed Titanium, Beryllium and Aluminum domes, but it certainly does not lack clarity. Especially with the waveguide, it has excellent dynamics. It is able to keep up with a high sensitivity 12” woofer, at least for aggressive domestic applications. (I wouldn't actually use these in a PA system, you'd probably blow out the tweeters.)
Open Baffle speakers that radiate from both sides via woofers but have tweeters only on the front sound “wrong” to my ears. I prefer true dipole behavior across the whole range, so I added a Peerless 1” dome tweeter with waveguide on the back. This is the frequency response on the back side, measured 45 degrees off axis:
NOTE: The tweeters are wired in parallel and the impedance dips to 2.6 ohms. Since sensitivity is around 98dB and since most music doesn't have large power requirements above 2KHz this won't be a problem for most amps. But this could be an issue for some people.
Impedance of woofer section is a breezy 8 ohms, minimum Z is 5.7. You can see the 42Hz port tuning frequency as well:
Tweeter section below is about 3 ohms:
I feel these do successfully achieve their objective of: Delivering most of the power and impact of the Bitches Brew Dipoles, without the expensive high-end drivers and huge size.
The Constant Directivity sound pattern means every seat in the house is excellent. You can stand right next to the right speaker and hear the left across the room with an intact stereo image. The DSP assisted reflex means with a 200+ watt amp and 96dB, these will play at loud party levels without stress or fatigue. A few months ago, I hosted a listening party at a hotel for 40 people and they easily filled a medium sized hotel ballroom with sound.
At low frequencies the DSP delivers a 6-9dB boost between 35 and 55Hz, so at low frequencies the SPL is 87-90dB not 96dB. I greatly prefer that to a speaker that requires no bass boost but is 87dB across the whole spectrum. The 100Hz crossover means that the midrange 12” driver is never even going to move visibly so it has very low distortion regardless of what’s happening in the bass registers.
The cabinets were built by Seth Cothron (@studio38designs) and the 1.5” thick front baffles provide more than enough rigidity to get the job done.
Here are the DSP configuration files: https://tinyurl.com/flanagangsterfiles
These have great stereo imaging everywhere in the room, tremendous dynamic range, and achieve the advantages of Dipole + Reflex with almost none of the disadvantages. Distortion is incredibly low and they have a creamy midrange and very non-fatiguing high end that's easy on your ears.
I would love to hear from others who create Open Baffle hybrids with other enclosure types. Acoustic suspension is possible, perhaps even TLs and horns.
Centure 24: digital 4-Channel DSP Amplifier with Class-H option
Hello DIYAudio community,
Couple of years ago I’ve designed a DSP Class-D amplifier called Centure 21. It has got ADAU1452 DSP, TAS5548 as I2S->PWM modulator and 4 output channels, with 4 more available on the "PWM" header.
and photo of the prototype:
on the left there is Amanero header, which can be used for amanero module to have just USB 2 ch input, or my York interface. There was also header on the left side with S/PDIF and I2S which are connected to ADAU1452. The purpose is to connect daugter boards with different input interfaces: ADC, AES/EBU, TOSLINK etc. The module was used primarily for home audio.
After some discussion here on DIYaudio with @florentg (https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...-dsp-bluetooth-aux.376006/page-2#post-7719605) we meet in person played with the Centure 21 and discussed what we could do in the field of DSP amps, the specs and software and ways to build something better. Recently TI announced a new amplifier IC TAS6584 which basically combines I2S→PWM modulator and the output stage but also have some quite interesting features, like the H-Class power supply control.
So a new device was developed 🙂
Structure of Centure 24:
The structure of new version is quite similar to previous one: there is DC-DC for output stages, a DSP chip and MCU to control and monitor the system. The main difference is in more advanced diagnostic and monitoring of the sysem, thanks to TAS6584. Also since TAS6584 implement H-Class control together with the DC-DC, this fetature is also available and can be enabled/disabled via software. Here is demo from TI: https://www.ti.com/video/6287333584001
This time the module designed such that it can be also used as the plate amp: all the interfaces (S/PDIF, I2S, I2C) are routed to headers and supposed to be connected to interface board (which is not ready yet):
The amplifier has 4 channels which can be configured as 4xBTL, 2XBTL + PBTL or 2xPBTL. So it allows fleaxible configuration for multiway systems. The nominal output power would be around 200W for all channels combined, the peak power of course would be higher. Not all measurements are done, only up to 100W/channel.
There is also software development going on which is based on the York interface (thread on DIYaudio: https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...tichannel-input-output-interface-york.413504/)
Live monitor of Class-H operation:
Measurements, experiments with the H-Class control and config software features will be posted later.
Couple of years ago I’ve designed a DSP Class-D amplifier called Centure 21. It has got ADAU1452 DSP, TAS5548 as I2S->PWM modulator and 4 output channels, with 4 more available on the "PWM" header.
and photo of the prototype:
on the left there is Amanero header, which can be used for amanero module to have just USB 2 ch input, or my York interface. There was also header on the left side with S/PDIF and I2S which are connected to ADAU1452. The purpose is to connect daugter boards with different input interfaces: ADC, AES/EBU, TOSLINK etc. The module was used primarily for home audio.
After some discussion here on DIYaudio with @florentg (https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...-dsp-bluetooth-aux.376006/page-2#post-7719605) we meet in person played with the Centure 21 and discussed what we could do in the field of DSP amps, the specs and software and ways to build something better. Recently TI announced a new amplifier IC TAS6584 which basically combines I2S→PWM modulator and the output stage but also have some quite interesting features, like the H-Class power supply control.
So a new device was developed 🙂
Structure of Centure 24:
The structure of new version is quite similar to previous one: there is DC-DC for output stages, a DSP chip and MCU to control and monitor the system. The main difference is in more advanced diagnostic and monitoring of the sysem, thanks to TAS6584. Also since TAS6584 implement H-Class control together with the DC-DC, this fetature is also available and can be enabled/disabled via software. Here is demo from TI: https://www.ti.com/video/6287333584001
This time the module designed such that it can be also used as the plate amp: all the interfaces (S/PDIF, I2S, I2C) are routed to headers and supposed to be connected to interface board (which is not ready yet):
The amplifier has 4 channels which can be configured as 4xBTL, 2XBTL + PBTL or 2xPBTL. So it allows fleaxible configuration for multiway systems. The nominal output power would be around 200W for all channels combined, the peak power of course would be higher. Not all measurements are done, only up to 100W/channel.
There is also software development going on which is based on the York interface (thread on DIYaudio: https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...tichannel-input-output-interface-york.413504/)
Live monitor of Class-H operation:
Measurements, experiments with the H-Class control and config software features will be posted later.
Identifying Secondaries
- By Locky101
- Power Supplies
- 7 Replies
I'm currently replacing a PSU rectifier board in a Rotel Phono amp with a simpler version. The current Rotel Transfomer has 4 x outputs, 2 x blue wires which are the AC secondaries, a white wire which seems to go directly to earth and also a yellow wire which doesn't appear to go anywhere on the current board. The new board has only 3 inputs (2 x for the AC inputs and one for the earth). My question is, what happens to the yellow wire from the transformer which seems to be rdeundant?
For Sale paper oil capacitors many 50s 60s
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Audiotechnology 10C77 25 10 KAP
Hello
I have two pairs (4 units) of Audiotechnology 10C77 25 10 KAP. They have a Re=4 ohm.
PLEASE BE AWARE THE UNITS ARE NOT SD, the title is wrong.
I bought them for a person who passed away last year. I thought I would build something with them but I really have no time at all, not need (my system already has a 10C77), so here for sale what I think it is the best 10" woofer (although any cheap).
They are in very good condition, slightly used for measurements and initial setup, but almost never played. They will be shipped their orighinal packaging + cardboard reinforcement.
They come without serial number. This is not the first time I see this and after asking, I was told that when you pick up them straight at the factory they come without serial numbers... but I really cannot assure if this is the truth or not. Maybe somebody can give us some light here.
Asking 750€ for one pair + pp fees + shipping (half retail price) and 1500€ for the 4 units shipped within EU. No problem shipping overseas, please, ask for shipping cost.
I have two pairs (4 units) of Audiotechnology 10C77 25 10 KAP. They have a Re=4 ohm.
PLEASE BE AWARE THE UNITS ARE NOT SD, the title is wrong.
I bought them for a person who passed away last year. I thought I would build something with them but I really have no time at all, not need (my system already has a 10C77), so here for sale what I think it is the best 10" woofer (although any cheap).
They are in very good condition, slightly used for measurements and initial setup, but almost never played. They will be shipped their orighinal packaging + cardboard reinforcement.
They come without serial number. This is not the first time I see this and after asking, I was told that when you pick up them straight at the factory they come without serial numbers... but I really cannot assure if this is the truth or not. Maybe somebody can give us some light here.
Asking 750€ for one pair + pp fees + shipping (half retail price) and 1500€ for the 4 units shipped within EU. No problem shipping overseas, please, ask for shipping cost.
Active 3-way Hypex FA503 or FA253 (with future sub(s))
Early thinking over the next (future) project - some sketches:
Driver starting point is:
Tweeter: SB26WG or Seas DXT (both with waveguides). The SB I am familiar and happy with. The Seas seems well reviewed/measured and has a similar WG.
Mid: 12cm seems to blend with tweeters much better than 15cm, so likely stick with this size. ScanSpeak, either the Revelator or the Illuminator in 12cm 4Ohm
Woofers: thinking 22-28cm, e.g. Scanspeak Revelators 22cm or 28cm in 4Ohm.
DSP/Amp: Hypex FA503 or 253 (subject to power needs per WinISD simulation).
A single or dual sub will be added in future, 15in or 18in.
Cabinet proportions roughly per sketch, subject to box sim. Width a few cm larger that the woofer. Beveled front panel about 4cm. Either symmetrical or asymmetrical to further smooth out diffraction ripple. Indicator/IR sensor at front.
Prelim crossovers 200/250Hz and 2-3kHz.
Driver starting point is:
Tweeter: SB26WG or Seas DXT (both with waveguides). The SB I am familiar and happy with. The Seas seems well reviewed/measured and has a similar WG.
Mid: 12cm seems to blend with tweeters much better than 15cm, so likely stick with this size. ScanSpeak, either the Revelator or the Illuminator in 12cm 4Ohm
Woofers: thinking 22-28cm, e.g. Scanspeak Revelators 22cm or 28cm in 4Ohm.
DSP/Amp: Hypex FA503 or 253 (subject to power needs per WinISD simulation).
A single or dual sub will be added in future, 15in or 18in.
Cabinet proportions roughly per sketch, subject to box sim. Width a few cm larger that the woofer. Beveled front panel about 4cm. Either symmetrical or asymmetrical to further smooth out diffraction ripple. Indicator/IR sensor at front.
Prelim crossovers 200/250Hz and 2-3kHz.
Modulus-686: 380W (4Ω); 220W (8Ω) Balanced Composite Power Amp with extremely low THD
- By tomchr
- Vendor's Bazaar
- 1803 Replies
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Random Sony Driver, What might the T/S specs be?
- By MegaNutball
- Subwoofers
- 0 Replies
Anyone here measured a similar driver to this, I'd like to model it, but found it a bit unusual compared to others. It came out of a Sony SS-WS102. I held a 3" dia paper tube onto the port to see what that tuned it to, and to see if there's any chance it might work for my intended use, and I was surprised at how well controlled the excursion was, having a total port length around 30" tuned to around 30hz. I found out why: tapping on it rings around 70hz fs, and the suspension is unusually stiff. The response curve wasn't that bad down to 24hz with an unexpected peak around 26hz. I thought it was a 6.5", but it's a 7.5" (so that's a plus) with an extra large surround like it was meant to take some overexcursion punishment, though the coil overhang is probably around 4-5mm, it's very hard to see though. Completely different driver in many ways to a similar Sony sub.
I've got a problem with back panel braces in a boombox cabinet - what to do?
- By freddi
- Subwoofers
- 2 Replies
Attachments
For Sale 0.1uF 800V Sprague "orange drop" 715P Polypropylene caps
Got a couple hundred of these. Good coupling or bypass cap. 5 for $10 plus postage, open to offers on larger quantity.
Micro-listening bar project
- By UnkleUncle
- Multi-Way
- 22 Replies
Hi all, extremely keen on building a tiny tiny listening bar. I’m a visual artist and intend to transform a tiny self built pavilion into a listening bar.
The purpose: set up the bar in exhibition spaces, collaborate with artists, dj’s to concoct weird drinks menus and musical explorations.
The place is already built: 18mm plywood room (floor and walls) with a paper/wood cassette ceiling, dimensions 220x330x230 cm LWH.
It will feature a bar and 4 fixed stools, and a booth for 2. (See plan sketch)
What isn’t there: the bar, sound system, drinks&vinyl shelves etc.
My skills: sculpting, wood.
My interest: building speakers (I like large speakers in a tiny room!), to set up a weird but also nice experience for visitors. Afterwards also building some more if it turns out well.
The speakers could be built into the wall, since there is space around the pavilion, like backpacks hanging from the wall exteriors.
Almost no budget, so looking for diy or assembled parts to build with.
Curious!
The purpose: set up the bar in exhibition spaces, collaborate with artists, dj’s to concoct weird drinks menus and musical explorations.
The place is already built: 18mm plywood room (floor and walls) with a paper/wood cassette ceiling, dimensions 220x330x230 cm LWH.
It will feature a bar and 4 fixed stools, and a booth for 2. (See plan sketch)
What isn’t there: the bar, sound system, drinks&vinyl shelves etc.
My skills: sculpting, wood.
My interest: building speakers (I like large speakers in a tiny room!), to set up a weird but also nice experience for visitors. Afterwards also building some more if it turns out well.
The speakers could be built into the wall, since there is space around the pavilion, like backpacks hanging from the wall exteriors.
Almost no budget, so looking for diy or assembled parts to build with.
Curious!
Some measurements of port compression using 15TBW100
- By fufuheo
- Subwoofers
- 18 Replies
´I have remade the ports for my DIY subwoofer with a 15TBW100 driver. The ports were previously undersized (two round 103mm ports, 164mm² port area), the tuning frequency was about 32.5 Hz with a net internal volume of 100 liters (~3.5 cu ft). The undersized ports had a 14mm radius flare on both ends.
The new rectangular ports have a total 296mm² area and a 55mm flare radius on both ends, but they sit directly against the bottom and walls, so only 2 of 4 sides of the ports are flared. The tuning frequency increased to 38.5 Hz, and the net internal volume is now 81L, due to the larger ports.
I've made frequency response measurements of the subwoofer at different power levels before and after the changes using UMIK-1 (6db gain) and REW, and put together some port compression data in a spreadsheet.
All measurements are ground plane 2m. Velocity in m/s and compression in db.
The spreadsheet shows input voltage, WinISD simulated port velocity and measured compression compared to the 5.66V sweep for Fb - 2.5 Hz, Fb, and Fb + 2.5 Hz. It also shows compression at 130 Hz (low impedance) in order to get some indication of possible power compression, depending on sweep level.
Some things I found interesting:
Port compression mostly affects frequencies below Fb. The undersized ports had only 0.7 db port compression at 77,9V and 35Hz, despite a (very high) simulated port velocity of 36,3 m/s.
Power compression at 130hz was considerable, although later in the sweep (more time for the voice coilt to heat up), it means that power compression likley affects the high power sweeps. For instance, there is more compression at 41Hz, 112V after the mod, than at 35Hz, 77,9V before, despite lower port velocity (28,3 vs 36,3 m/s).
The new rectangular ports have a total 296mm² area and a 55mm flare radius on both ends, but they sit directly against the bottom and walls, so only 2 of 4 sides of the ports are flared. The tuning frequency increased to 38.5 Hz, and the net internal volume is now 81L, due to the larger ports.
I've made frequency response measurements of the subwoofer at different power levels before and after the changes using UMIK-1 (6db gain) and REW, and put together some port compression data in a spreadsheet.
All measurements are ground plane 2m. Velocity in m/s and compression in db.
The spreadsheet shows input voltage, WinISD simulated port velocity and measured compression compared to the 5.66V sweep for Fb - 2.5 Hz, Fb, and Fb + 2.5 Hz. It also shows compression at 130 Hz (low impedance) in order to get some indication of possible power compression, depending on sweep level.
Some things I found interesting:
Port compression mostly affects frequencies below Fb. The undersized ports had only 0.7 db port compression at 77,9V and 35Hz, despite a (very high) simulated port velocity of 36,3 m/s.
Power compression at 130hz was considerable, although later in the sweep (more time for the voice coilt to heat up), it means that power compression likley affects the high power sweeps. For instance, there is more compression at 41Hz, 112V after the mod, than at 35Hz, 77,9V before, despite lower port velocity (28,3 vs 36,3 m/s).
Heavy duty aluminum cutting recommendations please
- By e_fortier
- Construction Tips
- 72 Replies
Hello,
Since the Pass forum uses massive heatsinks and folks don’t mind miscellaneous questions, here’s mine.
I was recently given a few massive heatsinks and looking for recommendations on how to cut them (it’s DIY isn’t it 😀) since a few are too tall. They are similar to the Heatsink USA stuff but slightly more robust.
Heatsink USA :
Mine are also about 10” wide but the rest is different;
Heatsink USA plate is 0.375” (9.5mm) thick , mine are 15mm thick. Heavy like hell 😀
Heatsink USA total thickness with fins is 2.875” (73mm), mine are 83mm.
Based on hands on experience, how would you cut such an aluminum piece so it’s usable, imperfections isn’t an issue, ugly side would be at the bottom, no problem.
Picture below;
Thanks for your help 👍
P.s. I also received some more that are insanely massive but I will keep it for a future thread.
Since the Pass forum uses massive heatsinks and folks don’t mind miscellaneous questions, here’s mine.
I was recently given a few massive heatsinks and looking for recommendations on how to cut them (it’s DIY isn’t it 😀) since a few are too tall. They are similar to the Heatsink USA stuff but slightly more robust.
Heatsink USA :
Mine are also about 10” wide but the rest is different;
Heatsink USA plate is 0.375” (9.5mm) thick , mine are 15mm thick. Heavy like hell 😀
Heatsink USA total thickness with fins is 2.875” (73mm), mine are 83mm.
Based on hands on experience, how would you cut such an aluminum piece so it’s usable, imperfections isn’t an issue, ugly side would be at the bottom, no problem.
Picture below;
Thanks for your help 👍
P.s. I also received some more that are insanely massive but I will keep it for a future thread.
EL84 SET Amp - THD measurements - Ideal Load Resistance?
- By dubadub
- Tubes / Valves
- 4 Replies
Greetings Friends. I wanted to share the progress I've made with this little amplifier.
This amp started out as a Pentode/UL switchable amp but it was pointed out to me that the PT was under-rated, so I re-wired it as a low-powered Triode amp. I took my operating point right off the EI EL84 Datasheet:
and borrowed heavily from the Marblewood amp's driver stage to come up with this circuit:
The amp starts to clip just below 2 watts with a 1k 500mVRMS input. I've cobbled together a testing rig using REW and have made measurements of the distortion profile of this amp at various output levels. There is a strong 2nd harmonic and relatively low levels of all other harmonics at all output levels.
In the image above the amp is producing 1VRMS at output into an 8-ohm load, that's 1/8w and already producing 3.47% THD.
1/2w
3VRMS, just above 1w. 3rd is starting to rise.
4VRMS, 2 watts.
0dbFS. 2nd harmonic remains dominant.
So. 2 pretty watts. Flipping the switch into U/L gives a slight increase in power while adding more of the other harmonics into the mix. Bass starts to drop off below 100Hz, expected from a guitar amp OPT.
One question this has brought up: is it the 3.5k output transformer that gives this circuit such nice 2nd harmonics? The datasheet shows different ratios of 2nd and 3rd harmonics across varying Load Resistance which gives me the idea that a lower Ra is ideal for tubes wired in Triode. Or is it just the EL84 that behaves this way?
thanks for taking a look!
This amp started out as a Pentode/UL switchable amp but it was pointed out to me that the PT was under-rated, so I re-wired it as a low-powered Triode amp. I took my operating point right off the EI EL84 Datasheet:
and borrowed heavily from the Marblewood amp's driver stage to come up with this circuit:
The amp starts to clip just below 2 watts with a 1k 500mVRMS input. I've cobbled together a testing rig using REW and have made measurements of the distortion profile of this amp at various output levels. There is a strong 2nd harmonic and relatively low levels of all other harmonics at all output levels.
In the image above the amp is producing 1VRMS at output into an 8-ohm load, that's 1/8w and already producing 3.47% THD.
1/2w
3VRMS, just above 1w. 3rd is starting to rise.
4VRMS, 2 watts.
0dbFS. 2nd harmonic remains dominant.
So. 2 pretty watts. Flipping the switch into U/L gives a slight increase in power while adding more of the other harmonics into the mix. Bass starts to drop off below 100Hz, expected from a guitar amp OPT.
One question this has brought up: is it the 3.5k output transformer that gives this circuit such nice 2nd harmonics? The datasheet shows different ratios of 2nd and 3rd harmonics across varying Load Resistance which gives me the idea that a lower Ra is ideal for tubes wired in Triode. Or is it just the EL84 that behaves this way?
thanks for taking a look!
New member - Acoustat, tube owner
- By Rockman699
- Introductions
- 5 Replies
Hello,
I am a new member to the DIYAudio.
I owned an Acoustat Spectra 22 since early 90s, it is still with me, the interface has been updated by Mike Burgert, it was a great experience and greatly improved my enjoyment of this old classics.
I drive the Acoustate with Raphaelite CR5687 tube preamp and a custom 829B tube power amp, I am very happy with the result, the sound stage is well layered, and detail is clear and very precisely pinpointed.
Here are some pictures I like to share with everyone.
I am a new member to the DIYAudio.
I owned an Acoustat Spectra 22 since early 90s, it is still with me, the interface has been updated by Mike Burgert, it was a great experience and greatly improved my enjoyment of this old classics.
I drive the Acoustate with Raphaelite CR5687 tube preamp and a custom 829B tube power amp, I am very happy with the result, the sound stage is well layered, and detail is clear and very precisely pinpointed.
Here are some pictures I like to share with everyone.
For Sale 1 watt carbon comp resistors
All NOS, unbent leads. Some are shiny tin and others are more oxidized. Unknown manufacturers and age.
I checked a few dozen random samples and all but one were within tolerance. Surprising number were within 1%. I can select or match for an extra $0.50 per resistor if needed.
Here's a list:
| Res | Tol | Qty | Notes | Res | Tol | Qty | Notes | Res | Tol | Qty | Notes | |||||
| 5R6 | 10 | 288 | 1K | 10 | 16 | 100K | 5 | 153 | ||||||||
| 7R5 | 5 | 261 | 1K2 | 5 | 283 | 100K | 10 | 236 | ||||||||
| 8R2 | 10 | 206 | 1K5 | 10 | 193 | 110K | 5 | 84 | SOME 10% | |||||||
| 10R | 10 | 157 | 1K6 | 5 | 17 | GREEN BODY | 120K | 5 | 326 | |||||||
| 12R | 5 | 279 | 1K8 | 10 | 209 | SOME GREEN BODY | 130K | 5 | 232 | MANY 5% | ||||||
| 12R | 10 | 154 | 2K2 | 10 | 398 | 150K | 10 | 275 | ||||||||
| 15R | 10 | 178 | 2K2 | 5 | 28 | 180K | 10 | 225 | ||||||||
| 18R | 5 | 160 | 2K7 | 10 | 155 | 180K | 5 | 248 | ||||||||
| 18R | 10 | 147 | 3K3 | 5 | 240 | MANY OLD STYLE | 200K | 5 | 7 | MANY 5% | ||||||
| 22R | 10 | 86 | 3K9 | 10 | 135 | 220K | 10 | 225 | ||||||||
| 24R | 5 | 5 | 4K3 | 5 | 40 | 270K | 5 | 255 | ||||||||
| 27R | 10 | 252 | MANY 5% | 4K7 | 5 | 121 | 330K | 10 | 262 | |||||||
| 30R | 5 | 28 | 5K1 | 5 | 10 | 330K | 5 | 321 | ||||||||
| 33R | 10 | 228 | 5K6 | 5 | 156 | SOME OLD STYLE | 390k | 5 | 111 | |||||||
| 33R | 5 | 143 | 6K2 | 5 | 118 | 390k | 10 | 255 | ||||||||
| 39R | 10 | 256 | 6K8 | 10 | 262 | 470k | 5 | 193 | ||||||||
| 51R | 5 | 162 | 7K5 | 5 | 256 | SOME GREEN BODY | 510K | 5 | 130 | MANY 5% | ||||||
| 56R | 10 | 295 | SOME 5% | 8K2 | 10 | 148 | 560K | 10 | 268 | |||||||
| 62R | 5 | 0 | 9K1 | 5 | 3 | 620K | 5 | 60 | MANY 5% | |||||||
| 68R | 10 | 136 | 10K | 5 | 16 | 680K | 10 | 414 | MANY 5% | |||||||
| 82R | 10 | 169 | SOME 5% | 11k | 5 | 25 | 820K | 10 | 290 | MANY 5% | ||||||
| 91R | 5 | 23 | SOME GREEN BODY | 12K | 10 | 279 | 1M0 | 10 | 96 | MANY 5% | ||||||
| 100R | 10 | 1 | 13K | 5 | 89 | 1M2 | 10 | 238 | MANY 5% | |||||||
| 120R | 5 | 158 | 16K | 5 | 93 | 1M5 | 10 | 174 | MANY 5% | |||||||
| 150R | 10 | 42 | 18K | 5 | 174 | 1M8 | 10 | 310 | ||||||||
| 160R | 5 | 18 | 20k | 5 | 53 | 2M0 | 5 | 12 | SOME 5% | |||||||
| 180R | 10 | 307 | SOME 5% | 22K | 10 | 151 | 2M2 | 10 | 310 | |||||||
| 200R | 5 | 519 | 27K | 10 | 121 | MANY 5% | 2M4 | 5 | 8 | |||||||
| 220R | 5 | 112 | 30K | 5 | 0 | 2M7 | 10 | 358 | SOME 10% | |||||||
| 240R | 5 | 7 | 33K | 5 | 324 | 3M3 | 5 | 211 | ||||||||
| 300R | 5 | 113 | 33K | 10 | 119 | 3M9 | 10 | 71 | ||||||||
| 330R | 5 | 222 | 39K | 10 | 285 | 5M6 | 10 | 57 | ||||||||
| 360R | 5 | 0 | 43K | 5 | 7 | 6M2 | 5 | 44 | MANY 5% | |||||||
| 390R | 5 | 443 | 47K | 5 | 145 | 6M8 | 10 | 148 | ||||||||
| 390R | 10 | 261 | 47k | 10 | 217 | 7M5 | 5 | 34 | ||||||||
| 430R | 5 | 96 | 56K | 10 | 265 | 8M2 | 10 | 62 | ||||||||
| 560R | 10 | 247 | 62K | 5 | 33 | 9M1 | 5 | 23 | ||||||||
| 620R | 5 | 156 | 68K | 5 | 196 | 10M | 10 | 45 | ||||||||
| 680R | 10 | 80 | 68K | 10 | 65 | 11M | 5 | 39 | ||||||||
| 820R | 10 | 207 | 75K | 5 | 64 | 12M | 10 | 62 | ||||||||
| 820R | 5 | 487 | 82K | 10 | 297 | 15M | 10 | 66 | ||||||||
| 910R | 5 | 87 | 91K | 10 | 163 | 18M | 10 | 21 | SOME 10% | |||||||
| 22M | 5 | 150 |