Small Driver for MEH
- Multi-Way
- 24 Replies
I have been designing another small MEH.
So far I have been designing it around the Faital Pro 2fe24 however from doing measurements the distortion is mega high at 10% THD at 10W around 600hz. It's still mega high on less power minimum 2% or 3% THD
Edit: thought I would add that this distortion is even just with a small rear chamber and no front chamber/ports/horn
This is the rear chamber I made for it: (I got the 3d file from Faital Pro and seal it with a small o ring at the top)
It is fully sealed, you can tell because the cone is harder to move than when it's free.
I'm going to borrow some peerless 830970 to try which look a bit more suitable
Does anyone know of any other good drivers that could be used in a MEH that are 2" or 2.5"?
I'm trying to push the mid up to 2.5khz at least so I need a 2" really
So far I have been designing it around the Faital Pro 2fe24 however from doing measurements the distortion is mega high at 10% THD at 10W around 600hz. It's still mega high on less power minimum 2% or 3% THD
Edit: thought I would add that this distortion is even just with a small rear chamber and no front chamber/ports/horn
This is the rear chamber I made for it: (I got the 3d file from Faital Pro and seal it with a small o ring at the top)
It is fully sealed, you can tell because the cone is harder to move than when it's free.
I'm going to borrow some peerless 830970 to try which look a bit more suitable
Does anyone know of any other good drivers that could be used in a MEH that are 2" or 2.5"?
I'm trying to push the mid up to 2.5khz at least so I need a 2" really
Hello from Korea! Excited to Join DIYAudio 🎶
- Introductions
- 2 Replies
안녕하세요 여러분.
이 놀라운 커뮤니티에 가입하게 되어 매우 기쁩니다!
저는 하이엔드 오디오 디자인, 특히 DIY 스피커와 크로스오버 네트워크에 깊은 열정을 가지고 있습니다.
최근에 Accuton 드라이버(C25-6-158, C90-6-079, C173-6-191E x2)를 사용하여 4방향 스피커 시스템을 설계하고 맞춤형 패시브 크로스오버를 신중하게 만들었습니다.
AI(ChatGPT)와 철저한 계산을 통해 부드럽고 자연스러운 소리를 위해 주파수 응답과 위상 정렬을 조정했습니다.
이 멋진 취미를 계속 발전시키고 즐기면서 여기 계신 모든 훌륭한 전문가분들께 배우고 제 프로젝트를 공유할 수 있기를 기대합니다.
환영해 주셔서 감사합니다!
이 놀라운 커뮤니티에 가입하게 되어 매우 기쁩니다!
저는 하이엔드 오디오 디자인, 특히 DIY 스피커와 크로스오버 네트워크에 깊은 열정을 가지고 있습니다.
최근에 Accuton 드라이버(C25-6-158, C90-6-079, C173-6-191E x2)를 사용하여 4방향 스피커 시스템을 설계하고 맞춤형 패시브 크로스오버를 신중하게 만들었습니다.
AI(ChatGPT)와 철저한 계산을 통해 부드럽고 자연스러운 소리를 위해 주파수 응답과 위상 정렬을 조정했습니다.
이 멋진 취미를 계속 발전시키고 즐기면서 여기 계신 모든 훌륭한 전문가분들께 배우고 제 프로젝트를 공유할 수 있기를 기대합니다.
환영해 주셔서 감사합니다!
Travel speaker build
First, you should know:
I am a seafarer and I spend fully half of my adult life out at sea. I'd like to say it's just a job, but it really does qualify as a life.
Second thing: I built a powered speaker system to suit my job and I'll tell you the things it needed to achieve in order to even make it aboard a ship with me.
The completed package.
More later.
I am a seafarer and I spend fully half of my adult life out at sea. I'd like to say it's just a job, but it really does qualify as a life.
Second thing: I built a powered speaker system to suit my job and I'll tell you the things it needed to achieve in order to even make it aboard a ship with me.
- Minimum weight: check in luggage has weight limits if you aren't filthy rich. I think the whole setup (2 speakers, MiniDSP Flex & cables) is around 25lbs.
- Small box dimensions: keeping things small is actually a good way to keep weight down as well...less wood, less weight...and Small box means small suitcase witch might also weigh less.
- Nothing stands proud of the box: it's soo much easier to protect the drive units if the surrounds or domes aren't sticking out into harms way. Just tape a protective piece of cardboard over delicate drivers and done!
- Wide bandwidth at the expense of SPL: staterooms aboard ship are tiny so no need to get crazy loud....but I still like bass.
More later.
Russian TV damper diode (6D20P) heater-cathode voltage
- By Fuling
- Tubes / Valves
- 39 Replies
Hi,
To make a long story short, I'm working on a SET design with a slightly complex PSU design (200, 270 and 380Vdc from three separate transformer windings).
I plan to use 2x 6AU4GTA in a hybrid bridge for the 380V rail (@140mA) and I also wish to use vacuum diodes for the other two (20mA and 100mA respectively).
To keep the costs down I've been looking at russian dampers (6D14P and 6D20P) for the input and driver tube supply rails but I can't quite figure out how to interpret the heater-cathode insulation ratings in the datasheets:
Would it be safe (in long terms) to use these tubes as rectifiers up to less than 300Vdc with the heaters referenced to ground?
I could connect the heaters to the cathodes but would prefer not to if possible, no other tubes will be powered by the same heater windings though.
To make a long story short, I'm working on a SET design with a slightly complex PSU design (200, 270 and 380Vdc from three separate transformer windings).
I plan to use 2x 6AU4GTA in a hybrid bridge for the 380V rail (@140mA) and I also wish to use vacuum diodes for the other two (20mA and 100mA respectively).
To keep the costs down I've been looking at russian dampers (6D14P and 6D20P) for the input and driver tube supply rails but I can't quite figure out how to interpret the heater-cathode insulation ratings in the datasheets:
Would it be safe (in long terms) to use these tubes as rectifiers up to less than 300Vdc with the heaters referenced to ground?
I could connect the heaters to the cathodes but would prefer not to if possible, no other tubes will be powered by the same heater windings though.
PP 6V6 amp from RCA RC-19 manual -- Thoughts?
- By rongon
- Tubes / Valves
- 251 Replies
I'm trying to decide on a push-pull amp to start building. I have most of the parts required, including transformers, and a couple of hand-me-down chassis I can use. I was thumbing through one of my old copies of the RCA Receiving Tubes manuals and found this in RC-19:
R18 and R19 (100k) take signal off the 6V6 plates to the 6AU6 driver cathodes for NFB.
R9 and R10 (330k) are a mystery to me. Simulation shows they increase the NFB a little. But how? I guess they feed a little output signal from the cathodes to the grids of the 6AU6s. That would create a little positive feedback, no?
Otherwise the design is straightforward.
I don't have a 9k or 10k OPT, but I do have a pair of 8k:VC OPTs.
The capacitor values introduce high pass filters in a couple of places that result in an infrasonic peak closed loop. I'd increase the values of C3, C4, C7, C8 to smooth that out. Otherwise the design looks well behaved, as the OPT is not within the feedback loop.
I would also improve the power supply; make it stiffer by using UF4007 diodes and bigger reservoir and first smoothing caps, and try to stabilize or regulate the 6V6 screen supply.
QUESTIONS:
???
R18 and R19 (100k) take signal off the 6V6 plates to the 6AU6 driver cathodes for NFB.
R9 and R10 (330k) are a mystery to me. Simulation shows they increase the NFB a little. But how? I guess they feed a little output signal from the cathodes to the grids of the 6AU6s. That would create a little positive feedback, no?
Otherwise the design is straightforward.
I don't have a 9k or 10k OPT, but I do have a pair of 8k:VC OPTs.
The capacitor values introduce high pass filters in a couple of places that result in an infrasonic peak closed loop. I'd increase the values of C3, C4, C7, C8 to smooth that out. Otherwise the design looks well behaved, as the OPT is not within the feedback loop.
I would also improve the power supply; make it stiffer by using UF4007 diodes and bigger reservoir and first smoothing caps, and try to stabilize or regulate the 6V6 screen supply.
QUESTIONS:
- Would it be better to use plate-grid FB around the 6V6 outputs, or is the 6V6-plate to 6AU6-cathode FB basically the same thing done a little differently?
- Is the addition of R9 and R10 a good idea? I've never seen that done in any other amp designs I've looked at.
- I assume using a 6FQ7 or 6CG7 in place of the 12AU7 would be an improvement and would not require much in the way of changes. Good idea?
- I might also try this with EL84 or even 6P15P outputs instead of 6V6s. Thoughts on that? I think it would be an improvement, and they'd be easier to drive as well.
???
Matching horns to compression drivers, a discussion
A thread to discuss how well a compression driver matches the profile of a particular horn, and how to determine that match - or mismatch.
When choosing a compression driver to go with a particular horn, what is important to know so that the two work well together? Can any driver be used with any horn? Or do some compression drivers work well certain horns and not well with others?
EDIT: April 19, 2023
Attached to this post you will find a spreadsheet, kindly provided by @marco_gea, that allows you to calculate and see the match between a given horn and driver. The spreadsheet takes the parameters of the compression driver throat and calculates an exponential horn that has an equivalent flare rate to the driver throat. With that information you can calculate and see how well a certain expo or hypex horn will match the driver's initial flare rate.
Instructions are included in the spreadsheet.
Obviously the first thing we would look at when choosing a compression driver for a horn is "are they the same size?" In other words, is it a 1", 1.4", 1.4" or 2" entrance to the horn? We normally choose a driver of the exit size as the horn throat. Also to be considered would be the mounting style, such as screw or bolts and the bolt pattern. Adapters can be used for different mount styles and even sizes. For example a common adapter is to use a 1.4" exit driver on a 2" entrance horn. PRV even make a 1" to 2" adapter. But beyond those obvious mechanical matching issues, will a certain driver work well or poorly with a different horn? And how can we determine that for a good match? How do we know the internal geometry of a particular driver?
Horns come in many shapes, sizes and profiles. We might look at a Smith horn that has no vertical expansion at all, but a wide horizontal expansion, to a Kilpsch horn with a long narrow vertical expansion and somewhat wide horizontal expansion - to a long horn that looks somewhat like a trumpet, to the Yuichi and others with mixed expansion.
I'll cite a recent example. Forum moderator @kevinkr recently went thru a good deal of trouble and expense to learn what driver works best for his new Yuichi horns. The Yuichi is a wide horn, but not very tall. In fact the horn very quickly goes to over 90° flare in the horizontal axis, while remaining with zero expansion along the vertical axis for about half its length. The horn is very much axi-asymetric, as opposed to a round horn where the expansion is axi-semetric. Is the horn a rapid expansion, narrow, or somewhere in between? What driver geometry would work best on this horn?
This is what the Yuichi looks like inside.
When choosing a compression driver to go with a particular horn, what is important to know so that the two work well together? Can any driver be used with any horn? Or do some compression drivers work well certain horns and not well with others?
EDIT: April 19, 2023
Attached to this post you will find a spreadsheet, kindly provided by @marco_gea, that allows you to calculate and see the match between a given horn and driver. The spreadsheet takes the parameters of the compression driver throat and calculates an exponential horn that has an equivalent flare rate to the driver throat. With that information you can calculate and see how well a certain expo or hypex horn will match the driver's initial flare rate.
Instructions are included in the spreadsheet.
Obviously the first thing we would look at when choosing a compression driver for a horn is "are they the same size?" In other words, is it a 1", 1.4", 1.4" or 2" entrance to the horn? We normally choose a driver of the exit size as the horn throat. Also to be considered would be the mounting style, such as screw or bolts and the bolt pattern. Adapters can be used for different mount styles and even sizes. For example a common adapter is to use a 1.4" exit driver on a 2" entrance horn. PRV even make a 1" to 2" adapter. But beyond those obvious mechanical matching issues, will a certain driver work well or poorly with a different horn? And how can we determine that for a good match? How do we know the internal geometry of a particular driver?
Horns come in many shapes, sizes and profiles. We might look at a Smith horn that has no vertical expansion at all, but a wide horizontal expansion, to a Kilpsch horn with a long narrow vertical expansion and somewhat wide horizontal expansion - to a long horn that looks somewhat like a trumpet, to the Yuichi and others with mixed expansion.
I'll cite a recent example. Forum moderator @kevinkr recently went thru a good deal of trouble and expense to learn what driver works best for his new Yuichi horns. The Yuichi is a wide horn, but not very tall. In fact the horn very quickly goes to over 90° flare in the horizontal axis, while remaining with zero expansion along the vertical axis for about half its length. The horn is very much axi-asymetric, as opposed to a round horn where the expansion is axi-semetric. Is the horn a rapid expansion, narrow, or somewhere in between? What driver geometry would work best on this horn?
This is what the Yuichi looks like inside.
Vacuum Tube Amplifier Basics Second Edition - EJ Jurich
- By edwardjurich
- Vendor's Bazaar
- 0 Replies
The most recent edition of my book is available on my website, ejjurich.com. I discontinued using Amazon. The old print versions were not of the best quality and were printed before text was checked for grammar. Some of the print book covers may make reference to different editions; they are all basically edition one with some updates. There are resellers selling old print copies of Vacuum Tube Amplifier Basics for ridiculously high prices. The current version of the book is available as a downloadable PDF document/eBook file for $12.00. It is also available as a PDF document/eBook on a CD for $15.00.
Why PDF?
PDF documents are readable on just about any device. Unlike standard eBook reflowable formats, content remains static. For technical documents, maintaining a static layout is best. Also, in the PDF, images are mostly color, including project circuit layouts.
Note: The CD version is only available in the US and Canada. The $15.00 price includes media postage.
Why PDF?
PDF documents are readable on just about any device. Unlike standard eBook reflowable formats, content remains static. For technical documents, maintaining a static layout is best. Also, in the PDF, images are mostly color, including project circuit layouts.
Note: The CD version is only available in the US and Canada. The $15.00 price includes media postage.
ES9038PRO i2c control via amanero
- By svadim79
- Digital Source
- 1 Replies
I am using diyinhk es9038pro DAC board.
PCM I2S connection taked from datasheet.
Then use DSD signal: sound is mono.
I am trying to find solution to change input signal routing using i2c from amanero.
Maybe someone has experience with programming i2c outputs of amanero and can explain me how to write register values correctly in amanero?
PCM I2S connection taked from datasheet.
Then use DSD signal: sound is mono.
I am trying to find solution to change input signal routing using i2c from amanero.
Maybe someone has experience with programming i2c outputs of amanero and can explain me how to write register values correctly in amanero?
Precision Power P900.4 Resistor Values Needed
- By AlbertLeRoux
- Car Audio
- 5 Replies
I need the resistor and capacitor values for the output filter.
They burned so bad that the relays are also melted and not working!
They burned so bad that the relays are also melted and not working!
Yet another Planar Magnetic Line Source, the SMAPPP
- By solhaga
- Planars & Exotics
- 367 Replies
SMAPPP stands for Solhagas's MAgnetic Push Pull Planar.
It'll be a line source 224 cm high; 88 inches for you imperials.
I haven't decided yet if it will be a combined mid and tweeter membrane or seperate membranes.
It will in both cases be one frame with one magnetic structure.
I have a couple of design concerns.
First one is the suspension.
Will it be enough compliance if the membrane is mounted between two 2 millimeter thick nano tape and the distance to the active part of the membrane is 20 millimeters away as depicted below?
It'll be a line source 224 cm high; 88 inches for you imperials.
I haven't decided yet if it will be a combined mid and tweeter membrane or seperate membranes.
It will in both cases be one frame with one magnetic structure.
I have a couple of design concerns.
First one is the suspension.
Will it be enough compliance if the membrane is mounted between two 2 millimeter thick nano tape and the distance to the active part of the membrane is 20 millimeters away as depicted below?
DIY midtweeter planar, physically curved and shaded to be used in a dipole CBT
- By OllBoll
- Planars & Exotics
- 506 Replies
Thanks to all the amazing help I got in my first thread musing about flexible PCBs (and why not to do it) I decided to scrap my requirements and start again.
My new requirements are:
Basically I want the perfect purpose build planar driver for my new dipole CBT which will look very similar to the old one 🙂 but with a planar as the main driver instead of full range 2.5"cone drivers. I'll still use cone drivers for 80-400 hz but I'm planning to hide them behind the planar in the spine of the speaker.
I will at least initially use 12 micron mylar & 30 micron aluminum foil. I will cut the foil on a silhouette cameo 4. I think I will need ~ 1 mm clearance between traces of the coil but I'll have to test that when I get parts & the machine. But since others here on the forum has done this already I'm not that worried and it will probably work just fine.
I also have plans to Corrugate the membrane lengtwise like this to stiffen side-to-side resonances. And then mount it top and bottom while floating (with foam) at the sides to reduce resonance frequency.
There are lots of small desicions I need to but for now the next open question is:
The 3 lengthwise setups are pretty normal. Just a question of how big the gap between the magnets can be without it impacting performance. My gut says that of course the 7 magnet setup will measure better in the treble but how much better and would it be significant? Having only 3 rows of larger magnets would probably be much easier to build. Since I wont have a metal front plate I'd have to get creative making a strong enough frame that I can print. But should be solvable although I might need to add more frame around the magnets to help support them.
The magnet-sideways mounted setup is kinda weird but would have some distinct advantages: It would be easier for me to manifacture on my 3d printer while at the same time having less support since I can rely on the magnets themselves for mechanical support. It would also probably measure extremely smooth in the vertical axis since it is extremely uniform thus should have an effective minimal CTC.
It does have some glaring disadvantages though: I'd have to come with some way to ensure that all the magnets and the coils are in alignment which isn't a trivial problem to fix. I'd also have to get creative when corrugating the membrane since all the corrugations would need to be uniform along the whole length. Also, it would be slightly less efficient due to the coil twisting more. It would, however, be fun to try to overcome the engineering challenges and build it anyway 😆
First is waiting for materials but then plan to build and test prototypes. My plan is to build 20 cm tall prototypes since the main thing I want to test is how the different setups perform in the horizontal axis + how easy they are to manifacture and how mechanically stable they are. Or basically how much extra support do I have to add to make it not fall apart, less is better.
The design which measures good enough while also being easy enough to manifacture will be the winner 🙂
My new requirements are:
- Single planar driver, 160 cm tall.
- Good frequency response, no ugly dipole peak allowed.
- Physically curved with a 75 cm radius.
- Shadeable, ideally as an internal part of the coils but splitting the coils into multiple separate parts that can be driven separately would be OK.
- Can cover from 300-400 hz (24 dB / oct crossover) up to 20 khz.
- Can output 100 dB @ 1m across the operating frequency range without too much distortion.
- Comparable horizontal dispersion to a Neo3W, limits horizontal radiating area to ~ 35-40 mm wide in the treble.
- Should behave as a single driver with vertical CTC of at most 2 cm. I want to avoid vertical lobing.
- Manifacturable with a 3d printer + using laser cut plywood.
Basically I want the perfect purpose build planar driver for my new dipole CBT which will look very similar to the old one 🙂 but with a planar as the main driver instead of full range 2.5"cone drivers. I'll still use cone drivers for 80-400 hz but I'm planning to hide them behind the planar in the spine of the speaker.
I will at least initially use 12 micron mylar & 30 micron aluminum foil. I will cut the foil on a silhouette cameo 4. I think I will need ~ 1 mm clearance between traces of the coil but I'll have to test that when I get parts & the machine. But since others here on the forum has done this already I'm not that worried and it will probably work just fine.
I also have plans to Corrugate the membrane lengtwise like this to stiffen side-to-side resonances. And then mount it top and bottom while floating (with foam) at the sides to reduce resonance frequency.
There are lots of small desicions I need to but for now the next open question is:
How should I setup my magnets?
I'm tossing around ideas for 4 configurations. Since I like tinkering I might just build all 4 and then measure them and see which one I like the best.The 3 lengthwise setups are pretty normal. Just a question of how big the gap between the magnets can be without it impacting performance. My gut says that of course the 7 magnet setup will measure better in the treble but how much better and would it be significant? Having only 3 rows of larger magnets would probably be much easier to build. Since I wont have a metal front plate I'd have to get creative making a strong enough frame that I can print. But should be solvable although I might need to add more frame around the magnets to help support them.
The magnet-sideways mounted setup is kinda weird but would have some distinct advantages: It would be easier for me to manifacture on my 3d printer while at the same time having less support since I can rely on the magnets themselves for mechanical support. It would also probably measure extremely smooth in the vertical axis since it is extremely uniform thus should have an effective minimal CTC.
It does have some glaring disadvantages though: I'd have to come with some way to ensure that all the magnets and the coils are in alignment which isn't a trivial problem to fix. I'd also have to get creative when corrugating the membrane since all the corrugations would need to be uniform along the whole length. Also, it would be slightly less efficient due to the coil twisting more. It would, however, be fun to try to overcome the engineering challenges and build it anyway 😆
Next step
First is waiting for materials but then plan to build and test prototypes. My plan is to build 20 cm tall prototypes since the main thing I want to test is how the different setups perform in the horizontal axis + how easy they are to manifacture and how mechanically stable they are. Or basically how much extra support do I have to add to make it not fall apart, less is better.
The design which measures good enough while also being easy enough to manifacture will be the winner 🙂
Found someones DIY project
- Tubes / Valves
- 51 Replies
I bought these amplifiers from an old man at work.
He brought them in because he heard i love tubes and he wanted to be rid of the heavy turds at 80 something years old...
I offered him $500 for these and the preamp which was also a diy effort.
The workmanship was poor and the amps didn't work. The boards were a rats nest and the builder used 5 different types of green wire.
I bought them for half of what I figured the iron was worth because I knew i could do something with them eventually.
(The preamp has SUTs)
I drew out the schematic and it did not make sense and it also didn't work, so I knew I'd need to overhaul the whole thing in order to make something worthwhile.
Luckily the A-340 dynaco is an extremely easy to use transformer. I could copy the dynaco mk2/3 but I already had 2x small tube sockets.
Instead I went full Williamson.
I am in fact William's son...
I put 6cg7 in the front sockets for va/pi
And driver.
I built a fr4 circuit board with a bias/balance adjustment pot.
I rewired everything using cloth wrapped wire to Retma color codes.
Now they both fire up and bias in and it's time to put signal through them and start fine tuning them.
He brought them in because he heard i love tubes and he wanted to be rid of the heavy turds at 80 something years old...
I offered him $500 for these and the preamp which was also a diy effort.
The workmanship was poor and the amps didn't work. The boards were a rats nest and the builder used 5 different types of green wire.
I bought them for half of what I figured the iron was worth because I knew i could do something with them eventually.
(The preamp has SUTs)
I drew out the schematic and it did not make sense and it also didn't work, so I knew I'd need to overhaul the whole thing in order to make something worthwhile.
Luckily the A-340 dynaco is an extremely easy to use transformer. I could copy the dynaco mk2/3 but I already had 2x small tube sockets.
Instead I went full Williamson.
I am in fact William's son...
I put 6cg7 in the front sockets for va/pi
And driver.
I built a fr4 circuit board with a bias/balance adjustment pot.
I rewired everything using cloth wrapped wire to Retma color codes.
Now they both fire up and bias in and it's time to put signal through them and start fine tuning them.
K-502 model B with 11BM8 - Seeking Schematic + advice
- By alderfc7
- Tubes / Valves
- 2 Replies
Attachments
Soldering in Tulsa
- By deckar01
- Introductions
- 1 Replies
Hello,
I started studying electronics a few years ago and have recently started repairing equipment for local musicians. This weekend I built a stereo ribbon microphone to mount on top of a field recorder.
I started studying electronics a few years ago and have recently started repairing equipment for local musicians. This weekend I built a stereo ribbon microphone to mount on top of a field recorder.
Vituix and DSP - Converting my 2-way to 3
- By eriksquires
- Multi-Way
- 37 Replies
Hi everyone,
If you recall, I'm a big fan of XSim, but I'm embarking on converting a 2-way (AMT tweeter + 6.5" mid-woofer, ported) to a 3 way with the addition of a bass cabinet and 3-way plate amplifier. I took my original FRD measurements for the tweeter and mid, and have spliced in the Dayton reference data for the woofer. None of the levels or delays are probably accurate, they are just here to see how far I can get in this design while I consider whether or not to proceed.
Based on my good luck with LR4 in my center channel I'm trying to use that slope again here. Ignore the phase plots, this is VirtuixCAD under Wine/Linux so the graphics are not 100%.
Thoughts?
If you recall, I'm a big fan of XSim, but I'm embarking on converting a 2-way (AMT tweeter + 6.5" mid-woofer, ported) to a 3 way with the addition of a bass cabinet and 3-way plate amplifier. I took my original FRD measurements for the tweeter and mid, and have spliced in the Dayton reference data for the woofer. None of the levels or delays are probably accurate, they are just here to see how far I can get in this design while I consider whether or not to proceed.
Based on my good luck with LR4 in my center channel I'm trying to use that slope again here. Ignore the phase plots, this is VirtuixCAD under Wine/Linux so the graphics are not 100%.
Thoughts?
SylphAudio New DIY Modules
- By SylphAudio
- Vendor's Bazaar
- 67 Replies
Welcome to SylphAudio thread!
Our New Product Release Roadmap for 2024
****
SE800 PFFB High Power Class-D Amplifier
Supply Voltage: dual ± 25V min, ± 85V DC max
Unclipped Power (<1% THD+N, ± 85V): 350W-8Ω, 700W-4Ω
Input configuration: Single Ended
Output configuration: Single Ended
Input sensitivity (PFFB): 2.6V RMS
Voltage gain (PFFB): ~25dB
PCB area: 140mm x 70mm
Overvoltage Protect: ±88V to ±91V DC
Undervoltage Protect: none, UVLO @ ±12V DC
Speaker Protect: none, requires external SP
Can be used with a 2Ω load if powered with a lower power supply voltage around ± 60V DC, can reach 800W output (< 10s burst signal).
Designed with PFFB to reduce load dependency and improve noise and distortion. 5W at 4Ω THD+N is around -82dB, with THD at -94dB.
Rugged and super-stable PFFB design based on TI, implementation by SylphAudio.
ETA: Jan 2024
Sample pictures
FB100 and FB360
We've applied the largest feedback factor possible without reducing the output power capability. Which results to exceptional performance.
FBUltra
Under development, composite OPA1612 and LM3886 design.
Our New Product Release Roadmap for 2024
****
SE800 PFFB High Power Class-D Amplifier
Supply Voltage: dual ± 25V min, ± 85V DC max
Unclipped Power (<1% THD+N, ± 85V): 350W-8Ω, 700W-4Ω
Input configuration: Single Ended
Output configuration: Single Ended
Input sensitivity (PFFB): 2.6V RMS
Voltage gain (PFFB): ~25dB
PCB area: 140mm x 70mm
Overvoltage Protect: ±88V to ±91V DC
Undervoltage Protect: none, UVLO @ ±12V DC
Speaker Protect: none, requires external SP
Can be used with a 2Ω load if powered with a lower power supply voltage around ± 60V DC, can reach 800W output (< 10s burst signal).
Designed with PFFB to reduce load dependency and improve noise and distortion. 5W at 4Ω THD+N is around -82dB, with THD at -94dB.
Rugged and super-stable PFFB design based on TI, implementation by SylphAudio.
ETA: Jan 2024
Sample pictures
FB100 and FB360
We've applied the largest feedback factor possible without reducing the output power capability. Which results to exceptional performance.
FBUltra
Under development, composite OPA1612 and LM3886 design.
For Sale Parts for Dual Mono M2x Amplifier and other goodies (Includes Edcor Transformers)
Attachments
Safely lowering transformer secondary voltage output
- By Hiten
- Power Supplies
- 10 Replies
Hi,
I have a salvaged EI transformer from old boombox. AC voltage details are as follows
My questions are
1) Can I buck the transformer by using one of the isolated secondary winding of lower voltages (A or B) ?
2) What if I discard the center tap of winding B shown in middle (10.7/13 v ) and short two 10.7 v points to use as center tap ? See pic below ... What voltage I will be getting ?
thanks and regards.
I have a salvaged EI transformer from old boombox. AC voltage details are as follows
- 235 AC input at primary
- There are three isolated secondary windings (0-5 v) (13/10.7 -0- 10.7/13 v) (40.7-0-40.7 v)
- The middle one has multiple voltage with common center tap
- I need approx 25-0-25 or any range between 20 to 30 v center taped for example 30-0-30 will also do.
- When I measure secondary voltage by connecting multimeter prongs to output shown in two cyan color dots I get 0-23.7 v
My questions are
1) Can I buck the transformer by using one of the isolated secondary winding of lower voltages (A or B) ?
2) What if I discard the center tap of winding B shown in middle (10.7/13 v ) and short two 10.7 v points to use as center tap ? See pic below ... What voltage I will be getting ?
thanks and regards.
Marantz CD63 & CD67 mods list
- By 6h5c
- Digital Source
- 21524 Replies
After modding a Marantz CD63 and a CD67OSE I decided to make a list of all the various mod's I found here and elsewhere on the internet.
I'd like to donate my files to this forum, for all to enjoy! 😀
Of course I do not pretend this list to be complete.
This is all I've done to the players so far and more good tips are welcome!
Greetings,
Ray.
I'd like to donate my files to this forum, for all to enjoy! 😀
Of course I do not pretend this list to be complete.
This is all I've done to the players so far and more good tips are welcome!
Greetings,
Ray.
The making of: The Two Towers (a 25 driver Full Range line array)
- By wesayso
- Full Range
- 8198 Replies
After riding along on a few different line array threads I figured this project deserved it's own thread.
I wanted to get new speakers for my living room for a while but could not quite find something I liked.
The speakers I have right now are just too big to use in a proper setup. In a domestic setting with a girlfriend and a 7 year old son there's just not much room to place anything. After surfing the net in search for an answer I stumbled over several line array's.
Now that was something I thought had potential! Way lower floor space needed than my current speakers with 15" woofers.
So the idea was born to build line array's using 25 full range drivers in each array, long enough to somewhat be floor to ceiling.
Next problem, what should it look like? And what materials to use? I remember seeing a DIY thread with a translam construction. That idea was very appealing to me. You can make it any shape you want on the outside and the inner walls can be used to benefit the design.
I started up my favorite 3D program and started sketching. Pretty soon I had some ideas about the outer and inner shape. Here's a much later version to give an idea:
I wanted a round outer shape, round corners to help reduce diffraction. On the inside I choose a wavy shape to hopefully aid in scattering/diffusing the back wave and making the walls uneven in thickness. That last feature should help reduce resonances of the enclosure.
Also obvious are the braces, making it a potentially very stiff enclosure.
The total array design on the left and the final outcome of this project on the right:
(not too far off I presume)
Here's a list of (hopefully) useful shortcuts to different milestones and/or projects done with the arrays:
A memorable moment, first sound!
It took a long time to get there, was it really worth it?
13th December 2014, First sound: A memorable moment!
Measurements begin...
My journey to better sound
14th January 2015, Start of first measurements: Measuring my way to better sound quality
Break trough in processing...
stepping outside of the boundaries of DRC-FIR
16th July 2015, Break trough in processing: Getting time coherency to work
(creating a time coherent correction in my listening room)
Proof of time coherency, at last 🙂
12th January 2016, Proof of time coherency at last! Tested with APL_TDA software
Adding Ambience!
Taking control over the room
With installing a virtual Haas Kicker I'm trying to restore some of the energy I "robbed" from the room with my damping panels. I had some clues it might be interesting from my Car Audio days and always wanted to try a proper version in my home. By far one of the most fun tests I have done!
It starts somewhere here... with a later revisit of the theme here! The second part is concentrating on adding reverb to the ambient channels. I can highly recommend playing with this Haas Kicker idea, be it virtual or trough diffusive panels.
Review time!
Printed as is, I hope more will follow
21st January 2016, First official review: Jan Fekkes reviews the Towers
Shuffling the phase, how does that work?
Another interesting, hopefully successful experiment
A thread was started on Fixing the Stereo Phantom Center which inspired me to do some tests with it. Early on it made me do some mid-side EQ, following a paper in that thread. Later on it led to experimenting with a phase only shuffler to brighten up the phantom center. What I think is happening can be read here...
Condensed version of this thread?
For those looking for a more condensed version of this thread, I started a post (a couple actually) on the JRiver forums that's more compact, but it also lacks the detail I put into this thread.
Here's the link: Why I love JRiver, a tale of taming my Line Arrays
Another review, this time by DIYAudio member: Boden
Read it here...
Eelco dropped by for a chat about REW, JRiver and FIR filters and a short listening session. We talked about all things audio and discussed the DSP methods I use in this Monster thread.
Reviews keep on coming in, this time by xrk971
Find his kind words here
We managed to take advantage of a business trip to get both xrk971 and BYRTT together at my home.
It's raining reviews! Another one from BYRTT
You can find it here...
BYRTT was part of the get together. He's the only one to have heard both my lines and the insane effort from B&O, the Beolab 90.
I was very curious about a comparison.
Update! Driver change to Scan Speak 10F
End result here...
In time I'll write more about it after proper DSP has been applied.
I am curious though, will this be the first 25 driver Scan Speak 10F equiped array?
==================================================================================
Line Array Theory, a great read for anyone considering arrays
Infinite line source: analysis by werewolf
An old AES paper on Line Arrays, from speaker dave (David Smith), written at the time he worked at McIntosh:
Constant Beam Width Transducers line arrays
And as long as I'm adding line array papers: This original work of Jim Griffin is worth the read too!
http://www.audioroundtable.com/misc/nflawp.pdf
ISO 226:2003 Equal Loudness Contour:
Interactive link with dB numbers
==================================================================================
Amplifier tests!
The story starts here!
A big special thanks to member koldby and BYRTT. We had a small get together to do some subjective listening.
5 different amplifiers were tested with the arrays.
==================================================================================
A Picture with the new DIY Scan Speak 30W/4558T00 subs added:
The actual subwoofer build is scattered all over the thread, but here are some links:
Still making sawdust
Getting it together...
Did I screw it up?
Waiting for paint
Getting ready to paint...
Paint is on!
More info here: www.vandermill-audio.nl outside link (enough to make your own!)
And the new Fetzilla ambient amplifier that followed shortly after that:
I wanted to get new speakers for my living room for a while but could not quite find something I liked.
The speakers I have right now are just too big to use in a proper setup. In a domestic setting with a girlfriend and a 7 year old son there's just not much room to place anything. After surfing the net in search for an answer I stumbled over several line array's.
Now that was something I thought had potential! Way lower floor space needed than my current speakers with 15" woofers.
So the idea was born to build line array's using 25 full range drivers in each array, long enough to somewhat be floor to ceiling.
Next problem, what should it look like? And what materials to use? I remember seeing a DIY thread with a translam construction. That idea was very appealing to me. You can make it any shape you want on the outside and the inner walls can be used to benefit the design.
I started up my favorite 3D program and started sketching. Pretty soon I had some ideas about the outer and inner shape. Here's a much later version to give an idea:
I wanted a round outer shape, round corners to help reduce diffraction. On the inside I choose a wavy shape to hopefully aid in scattering/diffusing the back wave and making the walls uneven in thickness. That last feature should help reduce resonances of the enclosure.
Also obvious are the braces, making it a potentially very stiff enclosure.
The total array design on the left and the final outcome of this project on the right:
(not too far off I presume)
Here's a list of (hopefully) useful shortcuts to different milestones and/or projects done with the arrays:
A memorable moment, first sound!
It took a long time to get there, was it really worth it?
13th December 2014, First sound: A memorable moment!
Measurements begin...
My journey to better sound
14th January 2015, Start of first measurements: Measuring my way to better sound quality
Break trough in processing...
stepping outside of the boundaries of DRC-FIR
16th July 2015, Break trough in processing: Getting time coherency to work
(creating a time coherent correction in my listening room)
Proof of time coherency, at last 🙂
12th January 2016, Proof of time coherency at last! Tested with APL_TDA software
Adding Ambience!
Taking control over the room
With installing a virtual Haas Kicker I'm trying to restore some of the energy I "robbed" from the room with my damping panels. I had some clues it might be interesting from my Car Audio days and always wanted to try a proper version in my home. By far one of the most fun tests I have done!
It starts somewhere here... with a later revisit of the theme here! The second part is concentrating on adding reverb to the ambient channels. I can highly recommend playing with this Haas Kicker idea, be it virtual or trough diffusive panels.
Review time!
Printed as is, I hope more will follow
21st January 2016, First official review: Jan Fekkes reviews the Towers
Shuffling the phase, how does that work?
Another interesting, hopefully successful experiment
A thread was started on Fixing the Stereo Phantom Center which inspired me to do some tests with it. Early on it made me do some mid-side EQ, following a paper in that thread. Later on it led to experimenting with a phase only shuffler to brighten up the phantom center. What I think is happening can be read here...
Condensed version of this thread?
For those looking for a more condensed version of this thread, I started a post (a couple actually) on the JRiver forums that's more compact, but it also lacks the detail I put into this thread.
Here's the link: Why I love JRiver, a tale of taming my Line Arrays
Another review, this time by DIYAudio member: Boden
Read it here...
Eelco dropped by for a chat about REW, JRiver and FIR filters and a short listening session. We talked about all things audio and discussed the DSP methods I use in this Monster thread.
Reviews keep on coming in, this time by xrk971
Find his kind words here
We managed to take advantage of a business trip to get both xrk971 and BYRTT together at my home.
It's raining reviews! Another one from BYRTT
You can find it here...
BYRTT was part of the get together. He's the only one to have heard both my lines and the insane effort from B&O, the Beolab 90.
I was very curious about a comparison.
Update! Driver change to Scan Speak 10F
End result here...
In time I'll write more about it after proper DSP has been applied.
I am curious though, will this be the first 25 driver Scan Speak 10F equiped array?
==================================================================================
Line Array Theory, a great read for anyone considering arrays
Infinite line source: analysis by werewolf
An old AES paper on Line Arrays, from speaker dave (David Smith), written at the time he worked at McIntosh:
Constant Beam Width Transducers line arrays
And as long as I'm adding line array papers: This original work of Jim Griffin is worth the read too!
http://www.audioroundtable.com/misc/nflawp.pdf
ISO 226:2003 Equal Loudness Contour:
Interactive link with dB numbers
==================================================================================
Amplifier tests!
The story starts here!
A big special thanks to member koldby and BYRTT. We had a small get together to do some subjective listening.
5 different amplifiers were tested with the arrays.
==================================================================================
A Picture with the new DIY Scan Speak 30W/4558T00 subs added:
The actual subwoofer build is scattered all over the thread, but here are some links:
Still making sawdust
Getting it together...
Did I screw it up?
Waiting for paint
Getting ready to paint...
Paint is on!
More info here: www.vandermill-audio.nl outside link (enough to make your own!)
And the new Fetzilla ambient amplifier that followed shortly after that:
DIY STM32 USB-I2S Multichannel board
- By bohrok2610
- Digital Source
- 10 Replies
Based on PMs I've received there seems to be some interest in DIY STM32 USB-I2S boards. Earlier I have published designs and software for I2S input board mainly for ADCs (https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/diy-adcs.419922/). So let's up the ante and do the same for I2S output board for DACs. Over the last few years I've made several board designs with STM32F7 and STM32H7 having both I2S output and input or I2S output/I2S input only. I believe the STM32H7 based design presented here is quite versatile and should work well with most DACs.
HW specs:
The board works "out-of-the-box" with stand-alone DACs. For DACs requiring I2C or GPIOs a "driver" can be implemented. Currently I have driver implementations for ES9038Q2M, ES9039Q2M, AK4490, AK4493, AK4499+AK4191.
Connection to DAC can be made either through the 16-pin header or using MMCX for I2S with separate wiring for I2C, GPIOs and isolator power. In my DACs I have "sandwiched" the USB-I2S board with DAC board as all my DAC boards have same format and connector placement.
With display/control board, power supply (e.g. SilentSwitcher) and headphone amp board it is possible to build a compact DIY USB DAC having versatile functionality and good performance. Even bettering commercial offerings.
Attached are the gerbers, schematic and BOM. BOM has Mouser part numbers except for the NZ2520SDAs which are available from Digikey. Board is quite challenging for hand soldering. Smallest resistors are 0402 size and some ICs are leadless. I have assembled lots of these boards but I have a reflow oven. If there is larger interest it would probably be easiest (and most economical) to organize a group buy and have the boards manufactured professionally.
For sofware development I recommend STM tools which are excellent and license-free. For uploading software to an empty MCU a ST-Link programmer is needed. Easiest is to use a STM32 Nucleo development board which are available for about 15 EUR in Mouser. After initial programming DFU interface can be used for software updates. I will not publish the software source code here but it is available directly from me. If interested send me PM. Sorry, not for vendors.
HW specs:
- STM32H723 running at 550MHz
- USB3343 USB HS PHY. USB connector is mini-B.
- 16-pin header for output
- I2S with 4x SD (digitally isolated). All I2S signals are buffered and routed through same number of gates/buffers to maintain timings. Digital isolators are lowest jitter 6-channel isolators currently available.
- I2C bus (digitally isolated)
- 3 output GPIOs (digitally isolated). In addition unused SD lines can be used as output GPIOs as well.
- Isolator power (3.3V)
- MMCX connectors for I2S and external clock.
- 6 GPIO pin header for jumper configuration or I/O.
- 2x audio clocks (size 2520/3225) with independent enable control. Clocks can be either 22M/24M or 45M/49M. I use NZ2520SDAs.
- External clock input (MMCX). Digitally isolated clock selector GPIO for external clock.
- 20-pin header with 2x SPI (for touch screens) and encoder interface for display/control.
- I2C bus for displays etc. (independent from output I2C)
- Battery for backup memory and RTC.
- 6-pin header for SWD
- 4 status LEDs
- Powered either from USB or external 5V supply
- Board size 75x50mm (without outer mounting holes)
- I2S
- 2 channels up to 768kHz/32bits (with 45M/49M clocks)
- 4 channels up to 384k/32
- 8 channels up to 192k/32
- DSD up to DSD512 or DoP256. Native DSD only in Linux as no ASIO driver yet.
- TDM
- TDM128 (4 channels) up to 384k/32
- TDM256 (8 channels) up to 192k/32
- TDM256x2 (16 channels) up to 96k/32
- TDM256x4 (32 channels) up to 48k/32 (not tested).
- PCM
- 2 channel single ended or differential up to 768k/32
- 4 channels up to 384k/32
- Format: 2's complement, offset binary, simultaneous (also 16fs)
- Bit depths: 16, 18, 20, 24, 32.
- HID interface for configuration
- DFU interface for firmware upload.
- ASIO driver. I've read that a 3rd party "universal" open source ASIO driver may be available later this year.
- GUI for HID interface. I have used simpleHIDwrite (linkhttps://github.com/benbaker76/SimpleHIDWrite).
The board works "out-of-the-box" with stand-alone DACs. For DACs requiring I2C or GPIOs a "driver" can be implemented. Currently I have driver implementations for ES9038Q2M, ES9039Q2M, AK4490, AK4493, AK4499+AK4191.
Connection to DAC can be made either through the 16-pin header or using MMCX for I2S with separate wiring for I2C, GPIOs and isolator power. In my DACs I have "sandwiched" the USB-I2S board with DAC board as all my DAC boards have same format and connector placement.
With display/control board, power supply (e.g. SilentSwitcher) and headphone amp board it is possible to build a compact DIY USB DAC having versatile functionality and good performance. Even bettering commercial offerings.
Attached are the gerbers, schematic and BOM. BOM has Mouser part numbers except for the NZ2520SDAs which are available from Digikey. Board is quite challenging for hand soldering. Smallest resistors are 0402 size and some ICs are leadless. I have assembled lots of these boards but I have a reflow oven. If there is larger interest it would probably be easiest (and most economical) to organize a group buy and have the boards manufactured professionally.
For sofware development I recommend STM tools which are excellent and license-free. For uploading software to an empty MCU a ST-Link programmer is needed. Easiest is to use a STM32 Nucleo development board which are available for about 15 EUR in Mouser. After initial programming DFU interface can be used for software updates. I will not publish the software source code here but it is available directly from me. If interested send me PM. Sorry, not for vendors.
Intro 🤪
- By DXLR13
- Introductions
- 4 Replies
Hey all! 
I'm a professional studio vocalist & vocal producer/songwriter, and have gotten into effects pedal building in the past few years. Being a singer, my most recent and most ambitious project is a diy mic preamp, which I am excited to build from scratch (pcb design, enclosure design, building etc.)
Always been a music nerd, and (audio) technology fascinates and inspires me. Looking forward to learning & growing together! 🤩🤓
I'm a professional studio vocalist & vocal producer/songwriter, and have gotten into effects pedal building in the past few years. Being a singer, my most recent and most ambitious project is a diy mic preamp, which I am excited to build from scratch (pcb design, enclosure design, building etc.) Always been a music nerd, and (audio) technology fascinates and inspires me. Looking forward to learning & growing together! 🤩🤓
