Could you take a look at this wiring diagram that I have a tell me if I'm missing anything.

Hey guys. Could you take a look at this wiring diagram that I have a tell me if I'm missing anything. Basically, my alt will run to a 7 slot Zcase. The Zcase will have fuses in it. I have a sodium battery that I'll be using. From the Zcase, the wiring goes out to the battery, out to an amp, then out to another Zcase. That zcase will go to the remaining amps. The grounds are not in the picture. I'll be using 1/0awg wire, and some 4awg wire.

There was some discussion about using shunts instead of fuses for some of the slots on the zcase. Should I use a shunt anywhere?
What are your guys thoughts? Does this look good?

Equipment list
https://www.waytekwire.com/.../littelfuse-3298225-zxm10... 225a fuse
https://www.waytekwire.com/.../littelfuse-3298100-zxm10... 100a fuse
https://www.waytekwire.com/.../littelfuse-0fhz0007z-fhz... 7 slot Zcase
https://srikobatteries.com/.../sodium-10kw-battery-pack.../ Sodium battery
https://www.down4soundshop.com/down4sound-jp43-orange... JP43
https://www.down4soundshop.com/down4sound-mm1000-mini... MM1000
https://www.down4soundshop.com/down4sound-jp284-orange.../ JP284
https://usa.pioneer/products/gm-a6704 4ch pioneer amp
HO Singer Alt - 350a peak
https://www.waytekwire.com/.../littelfuse-3298900-zxm10... Shunt
 

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This was suggested in a facebook post too. It brings up a good point. I want the lines coming in from the alt to be fused. This person suggested that I need to hook the alt to the battery, then the battery to the 1st z case. That's not what I planned to do, but is this a good point?

And also a few people on facebook recommended that I use large amp fuses. Cost is not a problem. There is a trivial difference in price from a 100amp fuse to a 275amp fuse. I just thought that I had sufficient fusing on my original diagram already. Do the fuse sizes look good?
 

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I have no experience with sodium batteries or the Z-pack fuses. If Littelfuse makes it, it's going to be OK (if used as designed).

I don't like not seeing fuses at the output of the battery.

Contact the alternator manufacturer to see what they recommend for alternator fusing.

I think I prefer connecting the alternator to the block. It gives you two paths for current into the block (which may be pushed to its limit).

I'd recommend feeding the two current sources into the middle of the block and the two high current outputs (one to bass amp and the other to the other Z-block) on the outsides of the block.

A shunt could be used at the input to the second Z-block.

I prefer fusing at both ends of any wire that has a current source at both ends of the wire. This would mean leaving the rest of the fuses as fuses instead of shunts. It would also mean having fuses at the alternator and the battery.

The information I found looked like the ZCASE fuse was considered slow-blow. For wire, that's not an issue but for protecting the amplifier, it can be. I'd suggest using one fuse size lower than you think you need. It probably won't make much of a difference either way.

Pencil, paper and a spiral notebook... The only way it could have been better is if you would have used quadrille paper. Far better than an awful Paint drawing.
 
I have no experience with sodium batteries or the Z-pack fuses. If Littelfuse makes it, it's going to be OK (if used as designed).

I don't like not seeing fuses at the output of the battery.

Contact the alternator manufacturer to see what they recommend for alternator fusing.

I think I prefer connecting the alternator to the block. It gives you two paths for current into the block (which may be pushed to its limit).

I'd recommend feeding the two current sources into the middle of the block and the two high current outputs (one to bass amp and the other to the other Z-block) on the outsides of the block.

A shunt could be used at the input to the second Z-block.

I prefer fusing at both ends of any wire that has a current source at both ends of the wire. This would mean leaving the rest of the fuses as fuses instead of shunts. It would also mean having fuses at the alternator and the battery.

The information I found looked like the ZCASE fuse was considered slow-blow. For wire, that's not an issue but for protecting the amplifier, it can be. I'd suggest using one fuse size lower than you think you need. It probably won't make much of a difference either way.

Pencil, paper and a spiral notebook... The only way it could have been better is if you would have used quadrille paper. Far better than an awful Paint drawing.
"I don't like not seeing fuses at the output of the battery." "I prefer fusing at both ends of any wire that has a current source at both ends of the wire. This would mean leaving the rest of the fuses as fuses instead of shunts. It would also mean having fuses at the alternator and the battery."

Don't have have fuses at the output of the battery and alt? The alt goes into 2 fused slot on the z block. The battery has 2 fused leads to the z block.

Am I missing something?
 
!/0 wire is probably not going to burn with the limited current from the battery or the alternator but this is the reason...

With no fuse at the battery, what happens if the wire gets shorted before the fuse in the block? The battery likely gets destroyed. In a system where the battery could supply enough current to burn the wire, you have an electrical fire.

If the alternator wire shorts before the block, the alternator gets damaged.

If you connect the alternator to the battery directly, that's another possible problem with destroying the battery, the alternator or both if you get a shorted wire.

You may not see any way you could get a shorted wire but car accidents sometimes cause wires to get damaged. I don't know what happens if you short a sodium battery but for batteries that burn, it's not good if someone is pinned in the car.