Hey All,
I've just replaced the woofers on my diy bi-amped center-channel for deeper bass, but by Hoffman's Law sensitivity is only 81db. I picked up the next higher power model (a GFA-545II) but voltage gain is the same.
I have yet to reinstall it and hear what I have, but if I can't dial in enough gain on the crossover, is there a good in-line amp you can recommend?

Or, is there a component swap that will increase voltage gain on an Adcom GFA-545II?

Hi Everyone.

Need your opinion if you had any experience with these products.

I am considering Elephant Shield Rubber paint for sound damping and sealing wood speaker cabinet(Using wood for body and ply boards for bracing) - Anyone had any experience with this product for sound damping?

Considering ROCKWOOL ROXUL Safe and Silent for sound absorption - Is it good for this purpose?

I am looking for good and low cost solution for wood damping and sound absorption which are available locally.

Other option i have available locally
1. Polyfill/Glasswool
2. Bitumen Sheet Self Adhesive - Black

Thankyou

Working with some Celestion CDX1-1745 compression drivers. Noticing some odd distortion when I wiggle the positive + input terminal, which at lower frequencies causes some odd order harmonics. It sounds alot like a rubbing misaligned VC. At first it showed up constantly when I was sweeping the driver down low and I could change the seventy of distortion if I pushed sideways on the + terminal.

I decided to pull the diaphragm and look the VC gap over for any loose debris and clean it out just to be thorough. I did find some adhesive residue around the centering flange, so I thought to myself that was likely the issue. After putting it all back together and carefully / evenly torquing the rear chamber cover back up, it sounded better. However, when I lightly push sideways on the + terminal, it still distorts a little. Its not nearly as bad as before but its there. The second driver I have doesn't distort at all when I apply sideways pressure on either terminal, but both drivers are very microphonic when tapping or flicking only the positive + terminal. This has to be some kind of engineering issue being that both drivers behave this way and the amount of microphonics from the terminal is of concern. The whole diaphragm is clamped with this dimpled "sound castle" rubber edging around the whole assembly. Maybe its too compliant overall, but the - negative terminal doesn't exhibit this behavior, so i don't understand why they would let a design like this slide. Eventually the strain and vibration on the microphonic terminal by the wiring will weaken the terminal mounting and cause the VC to fail.

Anyone else notice this on their drivers?

I am making 300B SE amp.
Chassis is 44cm x 36cm
Power transformer is EI 97mm , power is insufficient
Choke is UTC 8H 180mA
Output transformer is EI 86mm
I order the transformers from a forty years old store

I reserve three 9-pin tube sockets for one ECC88 and two E88C.
Currently user can choose ECC88 or E88C to drive 300B by solder.
ECC88's gain is not enough for 300B but there are many brands available so user can find your favorite tone.
I use a small choke (underneath chassis) to build luxury fixed bias voltage for 300B's as you can see in my drawn schematic.
Any comment or suggestion welcome.

Hey guys. I’m currently in the process of building a full range cabinet using the b&c dcx464 coax with the 18 sound XTI 1464 and the b&c 15sw115 4 ohm. This cabinet will be a replacement of my current jbl srx835p. I want the size and weight to be similar to the jbl srx835p being that these would be use for smaller gigs. Reason why I’m changing is I need more output than what my current speaker can achieve while also maintaining better sound quality. Regarding the cabinet design I was originally thinking of doing a simple bass reflex enclosure. Would this be the best option given the space and weight limitations but also given that it needs to be crossed over to the b&c dcx464 somewhere along the lines of 600hz? Thanks

Has anyone tried an R-Core output transformer on their SET amp?

Have been looking at these and would be interested in hearing anyone's opinion about r-core opts.

Softone RW-40-5 Single-Ended Audio Output Transformer

Thanks

Having listened to a bass/mid drive unit playing in free air (baffleless) and then listening to the same unit after being mounted in a sealed enclosure, I’m struck by the difference in sound. Obviously, I expected to hear more bass, but I didn’t expect the midrange to become more confused/distorted. I’ve tried with and without sound insulation, but the improvement with stuffing was relatively minor.

So, my question is: what is it that causes a deterioration in the “intrinsic quality” of the drive unit. Some ideas I’ve come up with are:

• the compliance of the air in the enclosure generating non-linearities in the cone movement ?
• the rear sound waves from the cone bouncing around within the enclosure and eventually emerging out through the cone, which by then would essentially just be noise?
• incorrect enclosure stuffing technique!
• the enclosure walls vibrating due to mechanical transfer from the drive unit and the varying air pressure within the enclosure?
• incorrect enclosure design and construction!

I’m sure there are other factors which I’m not aware of too!

I was under the impression that conventional drive units were unable to produce transients comparable to that of electrostats, simply due to the inherent methods in which they produce sound. I never questioned it until someone in the forum wrote...

...distortion is low and these babies are faster than electrostatics

Click to expand...

...Steve was comparing them with his beloved Bandor units, and of course he has a respected opinion, which opened my mind to whether conventional drivers can really be as fast as Electrostats?

My assumption was that conventional drivers were just easier to work with for the diy hobbyist which is why they're the subject of 90%+ of posts.

Any input to clear this up would be great.

Vikash.

Hi everyone.

My SUMO Polaris 310 was failed,
the original PCB was single-sided and easy to drop pad ,
so I remade a piece of PCB, and then I planned to move the old parts to the new board.
also the original PCB jump wire I replace layout on Topside.
so this PCB is double-side 🙂

Greetings to you all!

I have a query pertaining to an open baffle design using wide band drivers. Below is the simulated plot of a 15" driver on a baffle 36" x 40".


Using the single 15" driver it needs a 6 dB boost centred at 62 hz if I must have a -6 dB response down to 55 hz.

I intend to eliminate the equalisation stage, and for that the logical solution which comes to mind is to add a second identical driver below, wired parallel and low-pass filtered around 85 hz. However, i do not wish to drive it through an inductor, (for it might introduce a phase retard of 45°, as I gather from different material on the internet). To me, it does not appear to be wise to break the integrity of the two 15" drivers working in unison. Besides, the manufacturer data not being reliable enough, I am not certain about the actual impedance at 85 hz - so calculating the required inductance appears to be a gamble.

The lower driver will have its centre 11" above the floor.

* To allow both driver's to work electrically as one, and yet effect an acoustic low-pass filter on the lower driver around 85 hz, I am considering the use of a mechanical muffler - 16 layers of 1" thick open cell foam with a cross section of 18" x18" in front of the lower driver and behind it as well.

[Since i don't have a wife, i can be bold enough not to bother about WAF!! For me, function prevails over form. 😉]

My little understanding tells me that the total gain in response below 85 hz would be +6 dB; i.e. +3 dB from the additional driver and +3 dB from the closeness to the floor. It will yield a response -6 dB down to 50 hz without any equalisation whatsoever.

▪Questions:

1. Do you think it is practically wise to implement such an acoustic low-pass filter? Has such been used by anybody with the intended results?

2. What would be the order or rate of attenuation of such a filter? Would 85 hz be a good filter frequency point for the desired results?

I am confident of many of you having something useful to contribute. I would be grateful for your kind guidance on these naive questions of mine.

Thanks a lot in advance. 😊🙏

Regards,
sujat

Hi friends

I need to replace the photo interrupter located at shut-off power assembly. The part number is NJL5141 as per the service manual of Nakamichi CR5A. On searching, I located a similar part NJL5141EB.

Kindly anyone advise me whether the NJL5141EB could be used as the replacement. Alternatively, whether an equivalent part could be found? For your reference, I have attached the Nakamichi CR5A has been attached for reference. Please refer Page (16) Fig:7.2 for the detailed part.



Thanks

I have abandoned my 30watt parallel SE amp project for health issues so the following (all unused and boxed) are listed on UK ebay:

• HAMMOND 1640 SEA 30w output transformers.
• 36-0-360 400ma 220/240 main transformer, with 70v bias and dual 6.3v 4a CT
• Matched quad of Tung-sol KT120 with free gold plated chassis sockets.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/284822568155

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/284822566861

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/284822564795

MAINLAND UK SHIPPING ONLY DUE TO THE WEIGHT. (the 1640sea are 5kg and mains transformers are 4.6kg each)

Please make me a sensible offer if you want all three items and I will also throw in some 250v and 600v caps.

Thanks.

IF YOU DON'T LIKE LONG STORIES, JUST READ THE LAST PARAGRAPH.

Well, I finally got off my butt and decided to finish my subwoofer.
Before pics are here: http://members.shaw.ca/seangoesbonk/sgbSHIVA.html
Because I didn't have any decent clamps at the time, I used screws as well as glue to hold it together. I had to fill the screw holes before painting it. I went to Canadian Tire to pick up some wood filler. The only wood filler they had was "LePage Plastic Wood" http://www.lepageproducts.com/products/detail.asp?catid=25&subid=56&plid=303&PID=680
First BIG mistake...

So Applied the first layer with no problem. It smelled not-so-great but it was quite less fumey than paint. That night, I did a very, very, light scraping of the excess filler before adding a second layer. Did I mention I did this in my basement? Second BIG mistake...

Anyways, about an hour later my neck starts to itch. I figure, "Damn dog, he's got fleas again." Then my chest. Then my legs. Son-of-a-*&@%$ my feet feel hot. I lift up my shirt and take off my shoes and I have hives, swelling, and itching everywhere! I had to drive my girlfriend home, so when I got to her house 25 mins later I check the rash. GONE! What the hell? Weird. I figured it couldn't be from the wood filler because I had applied it that morning with no trouble at all.

So I return home and 30 minutes later (and without going anywhere near the sub) it all comes back. Worse! I slept in the opposite end of the house, but nothing seemed to help. So after 4 hours of trying to fall asleep, and just about losing my mind, I took some anti-histimine allergy pills. It was shortly after that, that I fell asleep.

The next day I took the sub outside to sand it and my hands started to itch. It then dawned on me that it was the DUST from the wood filler was causing the problem. When I applied it in the morning, it was still wet. All the dust from it was circulating through my house. It was weird because there was 5 other people in the house that day and it hadn't bothered any of them.

So anyways, I painted the sub that same day(truck bed liner of course) to seal it, and I chucked the can of remaining filler.

I read the MSDS and it says the product "May cause allergic skin reaction". No kidding. The MSDS is pretty scary. There is a lot of freaky stuff in that junk.

Moral of the story: MAKE SURE YOU USE REGULAR WOOD FILLER!!! CHECK THE MSDS BEFORE BUYING A PRODUCT!!!

EDIT: Link to the MSDS: http://www.henkelcamsds.com/pdf/10-00484-1.pdf

Hello,

I have a few questions on Accuton Drivers?

Anyone know if they are shielded?

I am considering building either a two way with the 1" tweet and 7" mid or a three way with the 1", 3.5" and 7".

Does anyone have any experience with either setup? How did they turn out? What were the major challenges?

I have a relative that has Loudspeaker design software and DEQX so I can test a few scenarios but I need to select drivers at this point.

I am building these speakers to replace a pair of Dynaudio Countour series speakers. I have a Primare CD, Ayre Preamp and Electrocompaniet Amp.

The room is medium size.


Any an all help or opinions are appreciated

Does anyone have a pair (or even one) of these for sale. I need one to complete a project.

Best regards, wayne

I wanted to learn more about DSP, active cross-overs and equalization, so I purchased the inexpensive Dayton DSPB-250 and its programming board. About $50. I wasn't expecting much, it started as a learning experience. Boy was I wrong...........

I had a spare Jordan JX92S and a HiVi planar RT1C which I used to make a mono speaker for listening to podcasts and music in a workshop. Granted these are quite decent drivers that I am starting with, the Jordans are my favorite drivers.

The DSP system proved easy to learn and I was able to connect to Sigma Studio easily. This is a two channel amp and so one channel for the woofer and one for the tweeter. Cross-over at 5000 Hz.

With little effort I was able to use REW to create a frequency response and then use Sigma Studio to auto-equalize. The resulting response is quite flat from 65 to 20,000 and this is in my listening space. I then added a mono-mixer and loudness controls. The result is simple astounding and sounds as good as my Focal Aria home theater speakers.

I see comments about noise from this chip/amp but once disconnected from my noisy computer and using a better source this little amp is dead quite.

I highly recommend people try doing something like this. You cannot beat the experience for a $50 outlay. I find myself listening to this little speaker for hours while working and constantly tapping my feet to the beat.

Hi All. Continuing the saga of the preamp dual op-amp passive phono amp I'm mucking about with. The small built in dual rail power supply, it seems, is creating some hum especially with the channel it is nearest too. I would like to use a wall adapter ac/ac plug in transformer to power it but realise the design using a bridge rectifier on board needs a centre tap on the twin AC feeds so I would need to make up my own transformer box and run a 3x wire supply to the preamp (maybe a 4x wire if earth included). HOWEVER I note most commercial phono amps such as the REGAs or DJpreii use just a single phase, 2x wire AC supply. I can only assume they use some extra trickery in their power supply or they might even be single ended. How can I emulate their power supply design please? This way, I can use a simple power supply socket on the pre-amp rather than rig up a bulkier multi-way socket.

Hi, I have two Fiio hi-res players and cd player (sony not hi-tec player). I connect them amplifier, Fiio's flac performance not good as cd player. Perhaps, it's empedance problem. I don't know. Do you have any idea about the problem? Do you advice any solution?

Howdy folks! For a mini monitor, I have lately been looking at the Passive Aggressive design (https://www.parts-express.com/Passive-Aggressive-Mini-Speaker-Kit-Pair-300-7148) using the ND91 woofer, dual ND90-PR passive radiators, and the ND20FB tweeter. It's a fun looking little design, and I just kinda want something I can haul around with me, like a Minimus 7 that actually sounds half decent 😛

Anyways, I recently picked up a pair of RS75-4 3" full range drivers (4 bucks for the pair 😎 brand new), and it got me thinking: what if I made a three way speaker using the same drivers as the Passive Aggressive monitor, as well as the RS75's for midrange duty?

My idea is to cross over the woofer at ~500Hz, then the tweeter at 7KHz or so, but having it upward firing. It would be only slightly larger than the Passive Aggressive design, and possibly I would seal the full range away from the woofer, depending on the advice I get here.

I know in a conventional three way I should probably cross over the tweeter lower, but I'm just afraid having it upwards facing will have the speaker losing too much focus if it covers too much of the high range.

This would be my first crossover design, and I definitely am still learning. Based on what I've given you, can anyone tentatively advise me on whether this is an idea worth pursuing? Thanks!

After years of running LTspice IV, I've recently switched to LTspice XVII. However, I've run into the craziest problem.
I've attached a .asc I'm working on. In it there are two NPN BJTs, a 2N3019 and a 2N2219A.
Both of those devices have models in the standard.bjt file in the \lib\cmp folder.
I put the two NPN transistors into the schematic in the normal way:

• Click the Device icon in the toolbar
• Choose the npn option
• place that in the schematic
• right-click on the NPN transistor symbol in the schematic and choose the model from the list; 2N3019 for the top one, 2N2219A for the bottom one.

Now when I run the simulation, I see the error "Can't find definition of model "2N3019' - Select OK to continue the simulation with the default model or Cancel to quit now".



What's crazy is if I replace them with PMOS MOSFETs, the simulation runs without complaint.

I'll attach my standard.bjt file so you can look and tell me if anything is weird in it.

I'll also attach the .asc file that's making this error.

Here's the schematic:



This is so strange. The MOSFET symbol works fine; that loads models from standard.mos with no issue.
But the NPN symbol simply will not load without that error.

This is the .asy file for the NPN BJT:


And this is the line in standard.bjt that it should be calling:


Can anyone see what I'm doing wrong?

Thanks.

Attached is a view of a partially stuffed board that incorporates a hybrid RIAA preamp using a pair of submini Russian dual triodes with sand helpers, and a unique line stage utiizing a solid state triode emulator that acts like a gain-of-6 triode with 75 ohm output impedance. The fake triode is loaded with a cascoded current source to minimize stray capacitance and reduce distortion. The fake triode circuit shows impressively low distortion in simulation.

The top of the board contains the fully stuffed line amp. I'll be running some gain-phase plots on it tomorrow, along with time domain response. When I'm satisfied with the line stage performance, I'll finish stuffing the RIAA section and characterize that. This is one project that will likely make its way to this year's Burning Amp.
BTW, the board will be run from a switching adapter via a DC-DC converter of my own design.

I was on the Support diyAudio page and noticed the text: "You can off ads". (Twice: $25 and $50)

Maybe 'turn off'?

Hi All,

I need the schematic or service manual for the Densen B-150 amplifier.
My access to hifiengine is sadly limited du to some kind of IP-block.
Is there someone here that would be kind to either post it here or mail it to me at: jd (at) audio-circuit.dk

Thanks in advance

Hello,
I just have purchased a Spectrum Analyzer 5L4N plug in for Tektronik scope 5103. I am wondering if anyone has manual for this plug in. Your assistance would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you
AR2

Hi!
Does anyone know if the famous Woofer JBL 123A is still in production, or maybe an updated or more recent compareable model?

Hello.
Need help for analog of STK032 for integrated amplifier KENWOOD KA 1600.
Original parts no fabricate.
AliExpress STK are fake.....

regards

Hi all

Firstly I am a complete newbie to all of this audio/elect. engineering. So apologies in advance if I seem confused, and thank you for any input or responses! Its my first foray into DIYAUDIO but I have learned a lot already. As I spend time on a classic car board being helped and helping others, I know how much value your help offers. I also ask you to be simple in your answers. I don't know the jargon beyond the very basics.

I am asking about Balance and Fade potentiometer controls for a very specific use case as a controller for stereo line level output from a BT receiving, splitting it to 4 channel, LF, RF, LR, RR in order to send it to a 4 channel simple 50W RMS amp. Before even diving into the idea of designing and building something, I would like to better understand some of the varying positions I have read about in my research of this subject.

Why? I want to be able to change the sound stage in my car while driving rather than via DSP presets on an expensive and big overly powerful amp. I am adding modern audio to a classic car (keeping a 'vintage' Blaupunkt head unit with cassette player. I am not looking to build a crazy system, just a 4 channel amp, better speakers and a BT ATX HD receiver. The BT receiver has no controller for the volume, it outputs stereo, not 4 channel, and has no balance and fader control.

Call me old fashioned but it’s nice to be able to make adjustments to fade/balance based on who is in the car and what music is playing. Since I can’t seem to find a line level fader/balance controller to buy, I figure why not try to build it.

In my research to date, I understand there are linear and taper pots, 10K and 100K recommendations for resistance, using non-Pot resistors methods, etc. All of which makes sense sort of, but I am left with some very basic questions…


For Example:

Stereo volume: 2 gang taper pot with inputs on left resistor track lugs and output on wipers for left and right volume.

Balance: dual gang linear pot gang linear pot with inputs on wiper lugs and output on both resistor track lugs. 4 signals out.

Fader: 4 gang linear pot (one per channel) with LF and RF inputs on left resistor track lugs and the LR and RR inputs on right resistor track lugs, outputs on wipers.


If this all makes sense and if would work, then here are my follow up questions…

• Would this sound like crap?
• What would the input levels need to be for the output to be usable?
• What total resistance pots would be best, 10k, 100k, other?

If other circuitry would be helpful, can you specify what components and what each does for the benefit of the signal? Remember I really know very little except the basics. Resistors resist, diode limit direction, capacitors store potential etc.

I can solder wires and things together, get them mechanically mounted and working, but designing much more than the above is way above my pay grade!

Thanks for any input.

Im getting ready to finish some tham15's and wondering if anyone knows where to get polyurea coating?

-Hoping for a non-proprietary, generic brand.
-Does home depot have such a thing under some other name?
-Kelly Moore?
-Might go with custom grey color if available.

Any tips for using this stuff? I was planning on taking it to my painter to spray but wondering if there is a special spray gun needed?

Hi guys,

I have a Sirius Pro MXA 6000 DJ mixer in for repair. It's a very complex unit and has a nasty fault on it (routing is all over the place) so without any schematics I'm dead in the water with it.

Would anyone here have a service manual or a schematic for this model?

I've asked Thomann who are the importers now and have been met with the usual line... "we don't give out schematics".

What the hell is wrong with companies these days? Do they really think that they will ever get repeat sales with this sort of attitude? I even called Braun, the previous distributor only to be told to contact Thomann.

I used to think that Thomann were a very switched on, helpful company. It seems not - they are just like the rest of the big companies that don't give a damn about their customers.

Can any one point me in the right direction with this?

Many thanks!

"server error" when I click on 'your content'

I've been tweaking on several designs/topologies of headphone amps over the last year or so, and now it's time to put the four winners into enclosures. I have something appropriate on hand for one of them, looks like I'll have to buy the others.

With the Covid shutdown, I figgered it's not a good time to order direct from China. I found these on Amazon, not crazy about the color, and I'd prefer the long dimension to be the depth, but one of them is good size-wise.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08BS39P69/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

What project boxes have you found that you like?

Hey,

Im working on a blown sd 12k. One channel was shorted, other looks fine. I fitted new driver irs20957, 2x zxgd3005 and new zeners. I still have yellow led lit. When im feeding amp with just 12v with no remote i have 12v on high side gate/drain and 8v on source. Low side has 8v on drain and 0v on gate/source. But on the blown channel i have 12v on high side drain and only 1.6v on gate/source. Thus im only getting 1.6v on low side drain and 0v gate/source. I cant for the life on me figure out what im missing. And obviously i have 8v on one output terminal and 1.6v on blown channel terminal.
When measuring i have drivers etc removed from the board.

My brother's SA-220 started smoking the other day and one channel quit working. I am taking a look at it for him, but don't have schematics for this.

U3 (AD42020-1) and U4 (AD736JN) both split in half. The portion of the board above these has smoke damage from this. VR1 and VR2 trimpots are both charred and the board below them is also damaged, though I haven't taken it apart to inspect how much damage there is.

I figured before I did much on this, that I would try to determine whether the output FETs are still good or not. I don't measure any shorts, but they also do not ohm out the same as the good channel.

Any suggestions? My brother would like this fixed if possible, but not looking real good right now.

If anyone has schematics, I would appreciate a copy also. I do have the SA100 schematic that was floating around, but this problem at least so far seems to have started in the thermal tracking portion of the board which isn't on there. Thanks for any help, and I can post pics if they would help.

Hi

Someone send me this amp and told me that the rectifier tube has blown and the amp has been modified using solid state rectifiers (Diodes). Since then it has been running very hot. He wanted the diodes removed and put back the GZ34 rectifier as before. I have replaced the diodes with the GZ34 and the amp is working fine. The problem I noticed is that, whenever I switch ON the standy switch, there is a bright arc inside this rectifier tube. I guess that this arcing will eventually blow the tube as before. Can the standyby switch be removed or is there any other way about it. I cannot post the schematic as it is 1.95 MB bytes

Please advice.

Thanks

hi I have an Audio Research Ref 3 and I have the problem that when I turn it on there is no signal but noise I have measured the voltages and on the +180v rail there is only 80v I have changed the valves I checked the circuit and I cannot find the breakdown.
could you help me

MC passive phono stage built around J113 gain/buffer stages. This is version 1.2a of the circuit (built 2016), the gain is fixed to 56 dB (about) and the input load is 100 ohms. It is wired for Canadian 120 VAC line. The internal photo was taken in 2016, the external photos are recent. The difference is the older photo shows RCA connectors that were afterwards upgraded to Furutech.

Some build notes can be found here
more info here and here

Asking $200 US, shipped. Located in St. John's, Newfoundland, Canada.

I'd like to post my boombox project, but there doesn't seem to be a section for that. There's a loudspeaker section and an amp section, but nothing specifically for all in one units like boom boxes, etc. Could we perhaps get a new section for that, or where should I post it? I searched and found them all over the place from the subwoofer section to the full range section. 🤷‍♂️

I tried to order one H2 Harmonice Generator board to be shipped to the UK. The only option for shipment is

DHL Express Duties & Taxes Paid (Shipping: $38.61, VAT/Duty/Customs: $9.79) A total of $56.39. Someone else who gets stuff shipped to Switzerland says they get what is in the pic below.



Rob.

Have one Telefunken E180F and one Valvo E180F (marked Miniwatt), both Gold Pin and new.

$10 for both + postage from Sweden.

looking for recommendations for a 12 inch woofer cabinet 3.3-3.5 cu ft vented, XO at 250hz to be used in a 3 way system, budget starting at $100 up to $250.

I have to admit i saw these and had to have them. I never seen anything like it before, these things were built in 1971 by goodmans. 4 Bass drivers with a passive 12inch bass assist, 2 mids and 2 tweeters.

So my aim is to give them some TLC, usual things like check the drivers, the crossovers could probably do with new parts etc.

Hoping someone out there has experience or knowledge to assist me! But i am really intrigued by these and want to have them running as Goodmans intended!

Hello! I'm attemtping to design some enclosures for a modest pair of bookshelf speakers.

I've been looking at using the Dayton Audio DC130B-8 5-1/4" Woofer.
I'm hoping for my enclosure to be roughly 9L in volume, with a 6cm diameter, 30cm long vent, tuned to 52hz.

I thought I was on the right track in terms of picking a suitable driver for the volume and accounted for potential chuffing with the vent size+length, however I've run into a major roadblock relating to cone excursion. No matter what I can't seem to get the cone excursion below the x-max limit of 2.5mm which I'm told will distort and potentially damage the driver. I'm testing it at 40 watts which is the RMS given in the spec sheet.
I've even tested a few kits with premade drivers to see if I was entering the driver data wrong and I'm seeing similar issues with the x-max. Am I doing something wrong or is winISD just cooking it a bit? I've gone back and double checked all my driver parameters and tested on a different computer but no dice.
The only solution i've found is to add a high-pass filter at 120hz which will remove the bass entirely and I really don't want to do that.

Is this just an indication that the driver is no good? It makes no sense to me as I can't find any enclosure size that would work for this driver.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

What do you think would happen if you removed the spider from a small 2-3" full range driver?

Would the voice coil just stray off center and ruin it?
These kind of small and shallows FRs are sort of close structurally to being cone tweeters already so I think there is some chance it could work.
Whether it would work well and actually benefit something is another question.

I was thinking about this into a relation to using a cheap small FR (CHN40, P830985, Faital 3fe25) as mid tweeter in 2 way, and making into poor mans Alpair 5.3.

Hi guys! Can you recommend where I can find a diy solution or a 3rd party product to replace the AC-1 Linear power supply of an Acoustic Signature WOW (Non XL) turntable from 2014?

Acoustic Signature hasn’t been responding to my emails and local distributor wants me to buy the AC10 charger (for the xl and xxl tables) for 700euros which is 3/4 of the cost of the turntable.

Found a 3rd party supplier on the web but he is out of stock and charges steep 419Euros

Sbooster | 24V upgrade PSU for your Acoustic Signature WOW XL

The AC1 ends into an RJ45?? cable hence my difficulty in finding a replacement.

Thanks in advance!

Hi All,

Hope you're all keeping well!? It feels like an eternity since I made some speakers (a year, in fact) so it's time to upgrade my system.

I'd like to try a 10" mid-bass and CD/horn as a step up from my current 8" mid-bass and CD/horn. I could potentially go to a 12" but I would have to be careful with WAF.

Crossover frequency should be around 1000hz-1300hz

So far my plan is a little rough but I have been looking at the following drivers:

Mid-bass:
Faital Pro 10PR320
B&C 10HPL64
B&C 10NDL64
18Sound 10W500
Precision Devices PD.123C001


Rough sims attached. All tuned to around 55hz with 23-30L vented cabinets.

Compression drivers:
Faital Pro HF108 (super flat response and low xover)
Faital Pro HF108R (ihigher FS than the above that means I won't be able to crossover as low?)
Faital Pro HF10AK (reports suggest this doesn't cross as low and impedance graph doesn't look as good)
RCF ND350

Horns
- RCF H100 (constant directivity and loading to 800hz)

Caveats And justifications:

- Budget is around £100-£200 per mid bass driver and up to £150 per compression driver.

- I would like to try a constant directivity horn and I would like to keep it a 2-way

- This will be a bi-amped DSP system

- The tuning of the mid-bass doesn't seem very low but my current cabinets are tuned to 75hz and because I am against a wall and so speakers are against the opposite wall I get good low frequency boundary reinforcement and the system -3db is around 40hz. With a lower tuning I expect to room to give me more low end extension (I have simmed in REW)

- I would like to use the EBS alignment as the aforementioned boundary reinforcement means I can adjust the bass-to-mid balance as the room dictates

- If I can support UK driver manufacturers then great, I'd rather not import drivers unless from a domestic supplier because of import taxes

Questions:

- Drivers. What would you suggest? Totally open to suggestions.

- With the EBS aliignment one obviously loses sensitivity (which isn't an issue) but does attentuating the upper response to match the lower have any detrimental conqsequences? IMD?

- Why do people investigate making 10" 2-ways and seemingly never build them? Is there an inherent flaw?


Attached is mid bass sims and a pic of my current setup where the subs have been switched off for the last 9 months.

Any suggestions welcome 🙂

Can I just put the 12v wires of a molex connection on one power supply, and the 5v wires of the same connection onto another power supply to power the analogue side of an ASUS STX II?

Hi - about Rogers Developments UK HG88 Mk1
I'm wondering if you or anybody can help w/ the above. I've been working on this amp, where 1 channel was dead.
BTW, before the 2 ECL82's there's an ECC83, which has a mistake on the diagram:
Both sides have 1, 2, 3 for both Triode sections. A 2nd section must be numbered 6, 7, 8.
.Finally, I figured out that the #1 contact in this socket hasn't made contact w/ the tube's foot. I took out a contact from another 12 contacts tube socket, filed the sides & thickness - then inserted in the ECC83 socket. Re-soldered the 100K & coupling cap = problem solved.
While snooping around, I also found 2 leaking coupling caps in the said ECC83 & bchanged the Cathode 1K resistor(out of specs).
I think that the problem w/ the socket was caused by my taking in/out the ECC83 for testing on my "bible" AVO VCM3 tester(calibrated twice by me & 2nd time installed a re-manufactured 33uA Taut Band mtr from jacmusic in Germany. Of course I matched all the tubes via the AVO.
But, here's my real problem: this amp has rectifiers for the hi voltage - the originals have been paralleled by Silicons. From there - there're 2 power resistors(w/ the usual lytics(I paralleled w/ new due to hum) in a Pi network.
Unfortunately, I only have the CCT - but not the resistors values. Of course, I can read all the resistor values from their color coded bands.
BUT, the 2 filter power resistors(1 for each channel within the usual 2 lytics) - 1 was dead & the other has faded value on it. I measure 480 ohms, but that's an unusual value - perhaps 500?
Does anyone have a chart w/ the components values he can attach to his answer?
Thank you in advance, Dany, Toronto, Canada

Hello,

I purchased a pair of AST25120 tweeters and they don't conform to their specification at all. They don't have a flat response at all and can't produce any high. I don't think they are broken as their distortion number as low as my noise floor and DC resistance is 8Ohm. Also both brand new drivers measure exactly the same. I started questioning my equipment and measured a Dayton audio AMT mini 8 and I get a response curve very similar to their specification. Any idea what could be wrong there ? (I tried two different amplifier too).

PS I attach the measurements,

Thanks!

Well, after 10 different DIY builds (Troels Gravesen, Zaphaudio, Paul Carmody, Jeff Bagby and my own designs) I have decided to “retire”, what means build the “definitive” speaker. I have moved and now I do have some dedicated space for …. The Loudspeaker 2 from Troels Gravesen… or something similar.

First of all, THIS IS NOT THE EXACT DESIGN FROM TROELS: I have changed the insane expensive BMS 18” for the much cheaper and very good performer Faital Pro 18FH510 because I was going to drive it in active mode anyway and I was confident I could make a good active crossover to mix to the upper section.
I’d like to share this build to help others to decide if build it or not and to avoid lots of mistakes and problems that this build can bring.
The system has been driven from an active crossover based in Troels cross points (200Hz, 1300Hz and 10kHz) but as my 18” has more sensitivity than the Troels one, I want to build a passive crossover to use this beast with tubes.
I have tested some passive crossovers but I’m not comfortable with the results. i’m taking new measurements and modeling a new crossover and let’s see what I can get. Please, do not ask for crossover values because there is some kind of everything here: lots of tricks and info gotten from here and there. Nothing 100% reliable, but I will post my frd and zma files to see if, with your help, we can approach a good crossover.

Lets go back to the build:
I have sourced all the drivers at the best price I could at Audio Video Parts
Carlo is a very serious person and you can trust them.
Second thing: Please, if you want to build this speaker, GO FOR CNC. And put this sentence in your mind: GO FOR CNC… and you will build this speaker in 30 hours maximum with no failures or problems.
It looks to be an easy build because there are no flanges or shapes, all is squared… but BEWARE WITH THE DOG. This is a very HUGE speaker and its very difficult to build some parts without good help, and moving it is almost impossible.
I have build these beasts in just 5 weeks with no help. Only my own due to COVID-19 lockdown. It’s not an easy job and it took me like 200 hours, but the final result worth the pity and the money. The sound is really incredible.
I could source all the wood, screws, glue and everything before the lockdown, but any mistake or any change I had to solve by my own. There was no chance to find any more parts outside.
I have used birch wood for all the speaker unless the front baffle, built in bamboo. Inner braces were built in pinewood.
Here you have some pictures from the scratch.

Wood cuts:

SOLD

Hello all, hope your all having a great day.
I work for a non profit for children.
I was donated two marantz sr6011 avrs and 6 sound town nx 4 channel amps 750 watts per channel. Last but least about 30 speakers. It's to setup a audio system for movies and plays.
I got most of it wired but having a problem with the subwoofers. I am using 1 of the amps for two subs bridged. Sub one to channel 1 and 2. Sub 2 to 3 and 4. How to I hook up that amp to the avr? I tried to the subwoofer out and it's very low. I also tried in the preouts and get nothing. The subwoofers are 800 watt 12" passive. Also is any settings in the avr would be a big help to make it sound better.


Marantz sr6011 x2
Sound Town 4-channel NIX-6000X4 x6

In great working condition. Seem to have been well cared for before I got them some months ago. Hooked up this morning to make sure they worked well and they do. Sound clean and clear.
Troels has a project with them. There's a couple others out there, but I no longer have my notes for them. High Q could be good for ob. Might work well in waw.

Asking $120 plus shipping to usa lower 48.

Thanks, Don

Tube adapters,from 6SN7/6SL7 to 6N3/5670.New 15 Euro + shipping.

Hello all,

During time I've collected all kind of information about esls.
What strikes me is that all cumulative spectrum decay plots (CSD) from ESLs I've seen sofar, all show resonances at mid and high frequencies. Not very bad, but very good (dynamic) tweeters are able to exceed the ESL on this excercise and show CSD plots with a more rapid decay.
This is somewhat against the popular belief that the ultralight esl-film is effectively damped by the surrounding air and immediately stops with no ringing.
In a dutch book (Fikier) it is stated that the delays shown on a CSD plot can not be heard as they are 'masked' in case of an ESL. But I couldn't find any theory supporting or explainig this. The only thing I can think of is that the several resonances will cancel at a longer distance as they travel across the film while the CSD plot is closed miked and shows a small area only.
Does anyone have some opinions about this masking effect?
( it may help to explain the subjectively experience of micro-resolution in ESLs)

Martin-Jan

Does anyone have schematics of the early Meridian range of amplifiers, models 101, 103D and 105 ?

These are reputed to offer excellent sound quality, which is better than many modern designs.

Ok. I've been working the following scenario over and over in my head and I need to be sure I have it figured right:

Let's suppose we use a magnetic pick-up (a rod magnet wound with N number of overlapping turns of magnet wire) near an oscillating metallic object to generate an AC voltage. When we measure the source impedance, we measure the DC resistance of the of the magnet wire, correct? For the sake of practicality, let's suppose the DC resistance of N number of turns is 1Kohms.

This can be modeled (within reason) as a voltage source in series with a 1Kohm resistor with a capacitor in parallel (capacitance of magnet wire winding). Simple enough.

Now let's suppose we require as high a signal-to-noise ratio (SNR) from the source as we can get. For this purpose, we desire our AC signal to operate as a balanced source which is then run into a Balanced-to-unbalanced converter of some sort (either passive UnBal transformer or active opamp). Still with me?

Here's where things get tricky:

So the magnetic pick-up is wound in a bifilar fashion: we take two parallel lengths of magnet wire (wires "A" and "B"), each length (naturally) having two ends, or "taps"; an inside winding tap and an outside winding tap.

Because two wires have twice the volume of one, we wind wires A & B in parallel N/2 number of times around the rod magnet. We then connect the inside tap of wire A to the outside tap of wire B (or vice versa).

At this point, here are the facts as I understand them:

1) We are now left with two taps: an inside tap and an outside tap, the instantaneous induced voltage at each tap is 180 degrees out of phase respective to the other. Therefor, these voltages can be said to constitute a (floating) balanced AC signal.

2) Because we used two lengths of wire, each half the length of the example used up top, the DC resistance of each wire is 500 ohms (1/2 of 1Kohm).

Here are my questions:

1a) In my mind, I see two 500 ohm lengths of wire in series. Measured tap-to-tap, the source impedance is still 1Kohm. However, since the winding "switches direction" where wire A is joined to wire B, I imagine a "floating" node forced to reference when the output taps of the pickup are connected to the input of the BalUn stage. Or is the DC resistance of the windings just the real (non-reactive) component of the impedance?

1b) Would grounding the point where wires A & B meet cut the source impedance in half?

2) What happens to the self-capacitance of the windings that are out-of-phase? Is it electrically canceled out? Cut in half?

3) The SNR is increased by a factor of 2, correct?



I think that's about it. Thanks to anyone who can help me out here.

Please find the schematic below. Can an electronic expert explain to me the exact function. Input is ~300VDC at R7. The unit works as expected and smoothly ramps up to 280VDC in about 5-6s, nice. The R7/C7 (R10/C8) function I do understand, it’s time delayed charge of the capacitors which slowly starts the conduction of the regulator mosfets. What is the function of D4/D5 and R9?
Q2: I setup a simulation on LTSpice which stops with a Too Small Time Step, blah, blah, blah after 5.8s. Any advice about the correct LTSpice settings. I suspect this behavior has something to do with the zeners…
Simulation file attached.

Hi,

I have a HT supply to a pair (one in each channel) of 6c45 valves. I took some photos of the circuit that filters the B+ as I think the hum could be quieter, however I did not take any measurements as I thought I would be able to just work it out......but sadly my brain is not large enough to achieve this :-(

What I am very confused with is the large value of the resistors that seem to be used as part of the RC smoothing filter that I assumed was the configuration. The caps are 220uF and the resistors look like 470K?!?

I clearly need to go back and measure things, but alas the amplifier in question is absurdly heavy and on a re-enforced shelf that to take down safely requires 2 people (one of which is not my wife) - so is by appointment rather than by choice.

Any ideas on what is going on with the circuit - I thought it would be simple to see.

Just wondering if anyone has used this type and what their experience was with it.
It looks like a 6SN7 type of octal twin-triode but with a 12.6V 150mA heater.
Maybe that makes it more like a 12AU7 in an octal bottle. ??
However, the Cag is high, like 3pF, as compared to 12AU7 Cag of only 1.5pF, and 6SN7 Cag of 4pF.

12AH7 datasheet: http://www.nj7p.org/Tubes/PDFs/Frank/hb3/12AH7GT.PDF

Thanks.

IanCanada IsolatorPi II galvanic I2S isolator for a Raspberry Pi or ODROID. New €80, bought from Audiophonics on January 11, 2021. Asking price €59 50 excluding shipping from The Netherlands.

As good as new, where I have soldered power wires directly to the board. The GPIO header does not pass 5V to the HAT above. For that, you can use the Molex terminal. Myself, I attached the power wires to my Allo Kali reclocker (see my other listing) above to this terminal.

Manual: https://github.com/iancanada/Docume.../IsolatorPi/IsolatorPiIIUsersManualRev2.0.pdf

Hello, I recently acquired a Cello Performance supply II and amplifier. Unfortunately, the cello performance supply emits a constant static noise from the supply when turned on. It is currently wired for North America voltage. How can I check it's wired for 120V (as opposed to 110V). I read in another post that the maybe due to insufficient voltage. I have attached a picture of the supply in question.

Thank you

If you have a bunch of 100v line speakers all in parallel, can those transformers that are in each speaker store a charge?

I know transformers can potentially store a charge but those small ones in a speaker?

How do I get into these things, must be I like punishment, brother in law told neighbor I like tubes, expert, since I built three amps.

Anyway I need some help!

Here is the amp:

Symptoms bad hum. Suspect 60 hz hum, bad ps caps, cannot clearly read values. Not many caps total, probably redo them all. I haven't tested the tubes yet either.

Anyone recognize this critter?

Selling the following all priced very fair:

Beyma TPL200/H Pair:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/275309627488

Faital Pro HF108 Pair:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/27530960811

Faital Pro HF1440 Pair:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/275308697760

BMS 4591 Pair:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/275306889873

RCF HF99 90x90° 1.4" Horn:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/275309623252

BMS 2193 1" Horn:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/275309556445

Stax SRM-700T Tube Amplifier:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/275305214298

Linlai WE845 Tubes Pair:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/275308725190

Selling the following:

Celestion Axi2050 2" Compression Driver Pair New:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/275314410523

Great Plains Audio Altec 288 1.4" Compression Driver Pair New:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/275314408562

B&C DE550TN Compression Driver Pair New:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/275314405100

Hypex NCore NC400 Complete Kit Pair New:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/275314420913

Topping E50 Dac Silver New:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/275314427894

Hey guys,
I've decided to build my first amp based on this guide.Full Page Reload
The amp board the author selected is not available, so I went with the EAUMT-0140-2-A, which is TPA3251 based.
I realized that this setup does not contain a volume control of any type, and assumes that I own a pre-amp.
I plan on feeding this with input from my computer soundcard and phone. I'll be using a 3.5mm jack instead of the XLR jack, as I don't own any devices that use XLR. Can I just use an audio tapered pot to control the volume? Should it go on the input or output side? Do I need buffer capacitors? What rating?
Will these inputs supply sufficiently strong signal or will I need a preamp to boost them?
If I need a pre-amp, I'd like to integrate it in the housing, I have plenty of room. I looked at a number of pre-amp boards, but there are many available and I have no idea which are good and which are garbage. Any advice would be helpful.
I've been searching for answers to these questions here and elsewhere, but I don't know the keywords to find what I need.

I'm using my TU-8600S with a preamp, which allows me to connect to multiple sources and produces a more dynamic bass. The gain is now too high. I have to turn the volume knob on the TU-8600S to 2-3 o'clock position to make the noise from my preamp inaudible.

I'm wondering if we can replace the 12AX7 with a lower gain variant such as the 5751 so that we can turn the TU-8600S volume pot to maximum position, effectively taking it out of the circuit. The volume will be controlled only by the preamp.

Any thoughts?

Twice today I have seen a post from a "new member" but when I hover their username it says "zero". New software bug?

Here is one. There was another "new, zero" member but I didn't save the link.


https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/high-power-class-a.382619/
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/members/darekwawa.499267/

I have salvaged a couple of skived heatsinks from old Carver 900 receivers. They used to hold 6 x TO-3P (2SA1264 & 2SC3181) and 2 x TO-126 (2SC1846) transistors.
If I wanted to estimate their R(theta), I was thinking to run a hefty transistor in a single-ended Class A operation, like a MoFo., and then measure the voltage & current across D-S (to get power), and the temperature at the gate pin.

Thoughts?

Kind regards,
Drew

Hi,
I'm just starting out playing with circuits and I wanted to play with the OPA1656 and I took a circuit from the application notes found in the op amp datasheet. it has a Baxandall treble and bass controls with a little bit of gain and thought it would make a nice headphone amp that would run from two 9v batteries so I drew the circuit into a circuit SIM (Tina TI) and it appeared to me to work and I could see the top and bottom of the frequency range adjusting as I would expect with a fixed gain. I then copied it into KICAD and designed a small PCB and built it (see attached PNG) on power up I heard music and it sounded reasonable at first, I was flushed with success ! but there was a lot of hiss and when I adjusted the treble it got considerably worse yet the bass adjusted as I expected. I then looked at the output with a 33 ohm load on a scope and could see hundreds of mV of oscillations at around 1 MHz that went away if I had the treble full up (Fully Clockwise) but any adjustment made it spring into oscillation, I had an input signal of 1 KHz at around 1v RMS. I have sat and thought about it and can only think it is capacitive either to much or too little but no other thoughts really other than I have made a fundamental error and there is a lot missing, bypass caps could be closer to the chip but they are there and its batteries anyway. I am not sure if I'm in the right part of the forum but I'm hoping for some advice please.

Cheers
Andy

Theory question here. A narrow speaker can suffer from lesser amplitude of low frequencies in part due to the loss of a beneficial baffle step. What happens when a passive radiator is introduced to such a narrow speaker, on the rear or the side; does this help overcome the baffle step losses? My understanding is that frequencies below the baffle step turn omnidirectional, whereas those above are radiated in a forward plane. But when a PR is added, surely this means all the lower frequencies it helps with are radiated omnidirectionally?

An example of such a narrow speaker would be the Swiss Boenicke W5, which uses a side PR.
And my theoretical question would concern employing a PR to the rear of a speaker like a Gallo Micro or similar.

Thanks in advance.

I was playing around with a few of my CDM-2 based CD players the other day, swapping the mechanism out of a player I had junked (a CD650) into a CD150. The laser mech from the CD650 just would not track well; tracks one to five were fine, track six was getting marginal, and beyond that it would not track at all. I checked the normal things (friction in the bearings etc.).

It was then that I did some reading, and came across an issue I had never considered before: Static vs Dynamic CDM-2s. It seems that the CDM-2 had two types of radial drive, static and dynamic, and there are different servos for each. This results in four different servo panels:

- No.5725 (static radial drive, on board microcontroller)
- No.5768 (static radial drive, off board microcontroller)
- No.5826 (dynamic radial drive, on board microcontroller)
- No.5827 (dynamic radial drive, off board microcontroller)

And within the model CDM-2/10 there are eight variants:
- Static models; 0000 (Hi-Fi), 0001 (Top Hi-Fi) and 0003 (Leuven)
- Dynamic models; 0008, 0300, 0301, 0303, 0307

Now at the moment I have three CDM-2 laser mechs (a 0000, a 0001 and a 0301) and four servo boards (three 5725s and a 5827). I'd like to run the 0301 laser mech in my Philips CD150, but I need a 5826 servo panel to do this. I've had a look at the schematics of both the 5725 and 5826 servos, and there isn't a whole lot of difference, about half a dozen passive components in the radial drive.

My big question is: Are there any other differences between a static and dynamic servo, especially with the microcontroller programming? Am I going to get a servo that works with dynamic CDM-2s in a CD150 by swapping out those half dozen passive components? I have shown a block diagram of the servo below, with the radial tracking and drive portions highlighted.



And before this I thought a CDM-2/10 was just a CDM-2/10 . Anyone out the care to elaborate on the difference between the static and dynamic radial motors? And does anyone know if the other CDM-2 variants (the /29 etc) are static or dynamic? I would guess dynamic, but I'm not sure.

I am using WinISD to run box alignment sims for different woofers and it's not going so smoothly. I add drivers parameters (for drivers not in the db) and I always get integrity problems even though I copy them off the manufacturers data sheet. Is there an easier program to use?

If I search for Quad in titles only I get very few results. If I just use the general search I get many more results a lot of which have Quad in the title

Stuart

Hi, I am wondering what the general distances for the mic are when using REW for low frequency. I have seen many captions that state the low frequency graph is not accurate. I suppose that I am wondering if some standard method has been agreed upon in the community.

THX
Jeremy

Hi,

i have a "WHAMMY" Pass DIY headphone amp circuit board for sale.
Thread: https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/whammy-pass-diy-headphone-amp-guide.317803/#post-5317268

Cost: 20€
Shipping in a padded envelope without insurance or tracking:

• D (without islands): 2,50€
• World Wide (sorry .. no UK, to much paperwork for the customs): 4,50€

does anyone here have the schematic or service manual for this NEC cd player?

A few days ago I was doing some work with my Grundig CD 9000. I found that the four-lead cord from the servo board is quite stiff and that it pulls or pushes the wobbly CDM, so I decided to change it with more soft one. I changed the solid wires with the litzy wires that I took from microphone cable. I got stuck with the little connectors for hours just to find that I have fitted two ends in wrong order. I had no more patience to disassemble all again so I cut the wires and soldered them together in proper order. I checked with DMM all fine.

I fired up the player and it started spinning the disc but doesn’t recognize it. The laser makes two tries upon startup, up and down, but no lock… Since than I have been searching and reading but found no solution that works for me… I have found service manuals only for similar players but there is no servo or CDM schematic… My player uses the same main board as Philips 640, 650, 660… but CDM 2/29.

I can provide photos of the board/player for someone that has the patience and goodwill to help!

Could it be that new no solid wire makes the problem?

Here is the photo of the servo board (without THE cable)

There almost doest seem to be a reason todo anything besides one of these? All things considered, except a size constraint?

Thoughts?