2stageEF high performance class AB power amp / 200W8R / 400W4R


* SA2022 - Modular High End Precision Preamplifier * See Project J below ***
* SA2021-NCH - New Class H * SA2021-NCH - New Class H * See Project I below *

Heavily inspired from books of Douglas Self, Bob Cordell and other great authors I decided to design a discrete power amplifier to learn how LTSpice can be used for my DIY projects.
Attached is the current simulation file and some information about the real world result: a very good working 2stageEF power amplifier with high performance.
The simulated THD performance is about 0.0004% at 20kHz@200W@8R.
Real life THD+N performance of working prototype amplifier is about 0.0015% at 20kHz@200W@8R (80kHz bandwidth).
Using the HP3585A spectrum analyser (100dB resolution) while running 20kHz@200W@8R test only H2 and H3 are visible above the noise floor.
To download the needed BJT/JFET/MOSFET/DIODE ltspice library file "Cordell-Models.txt" please visit CordellAudio.com - Home

During the years some smaller amplifiers based on the same topology have been developed. These projects have been discussed in detail and have been built successfully by different users. See the index below for more information.
In addition a high performance discrete opamp "MyDOA" and housekeeping circuits have been developed and built many times too.

More test results, THD plots and other information will be updated from time to time.

Have fun, Toni

-----------------------------------------

A) SA2014 (200W@8R, 400W@4R) Rev 3.4.2 amplifier (partially old name is SA2013) using 8 matched pairs TTC5200 and TTA1943:
  • Latest valid PCB gerber files for input/VAS and output stage board can be found in post 979 and 980
  • PCB gerber files for power supply (single diode bridge; v3.x; see F) and G) below for dual diode bridge) for one channel in post 1005
  • Latest schematic and corrected BOM in post 1145 and 1146
  • R28 (100R) needs to be reduced to 68R to get some extra PM stability.
  • CCS mod for better thermal stability post 2028
  • "asc" files can be found in post 1149
  • pcb's are available via: sa2014 (at) aws-it.at
B) MyDOA v3.1 (my discrete operational amplifier) have a look at
C1) SA2015 V-MOSFET (70W@8R, 140W@4R) using 3 matched pairs IRFP240 and IRFP9240:
C2) SA2015 V-MOSFET (100W@8R, 200W@4R) using 1 pair IXYS IXTH80N20L and IXTH48P20P:
D) housekeeping circuits 4.3:
  • Schematic and BOM part 1 is here
  • Schematic and BOM part 2 is here
  • pcb's and PIC microcontroller firmware are available via: sa20xx-hk (at) aws-it.at
E1) SA2016 - L-MOSFET (70W@8R, 140W@4R) - 3 matched pairs Exicon ECX10N20 and ECX10P20:
  • preliminary schematic for ECX10N20, ECX10P20 can be found in post 1761
  • pcb's are available via: sa2016 (at) aws-it.at
E2) SA2016 - L-MOSFET (100W@8R, 200W@4R) - 3 matched pairs double die Exicon ECW20N20 and ECW20P20:
  • preliminary schematic for double die ECW20N20 and ECW20P20 can be found in post 2105
  • pcb's are available via: sa2016 (at) aws-it.at
F) SA2014 - power supply v4.0
  • schematic for dual diode bridge ("big" sized: 150x150mm) can be found in post 2000 and 2001
  • updated gerber files in post 2067, 2068
  • pcb's are available via: sa2014 (at) aws-it.at
G) SA2014/SA2015/SA2016 - new resized universal power supply v4.0
  • schematic for dual diode bridge (smaller size: 150x90mm) can be found in post 1987 and 1988
  • updated gerber files in post 2067, 2068
  • images of working test samples in post 2071
  • pcb's are available via: sa2016 (at) aws-it.at
H) SA2012 - LME49830 (180W@8R) using 3 matched pairs IRFP240 and IRFP9240[/B]
  • schematic can be found in this threads post 29
  • gerber files in this threads post 31
I) SA2021-NCH - a 'New Class H' prototype using 3 matched pairs IXYS IXTH80N20L/IXTH48P20P and 4 matched pairs TTC5200/TTA1943
  • single pair IXYS prototype schematic can be found here post 2902
  • single pair IXYS working prototype can be found here post 2922
  • 3 pair IXYS - v2.0 preliminary schematic - can be found here post 3117
  • 3 pair IXYS powered amplifier testing can be found here and on the following posts: post 3094
  • single slope current limiter can be found here: post 3177
J) SA2022 - Modular High End Precision Preamplifier
  • SA20XX Amplifiers need a preamplifier - this project may fullfill your needs: post 1


INDEX / UPDATES
USERS BUILD:


NOTE: the pictures and schematics shown in this first post are from the initial beta project. Do NOT use them for production. Read above index carefully - there are links to the latest schematics, BOM and gerbers!

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voice coil winding Question

Hello everyone,How does kapton and enameled cooper wire stick together in the speaker voice coil and does the cooper wire not lose after winding, what is the methods curing done by baking at high temperature or is there an adhesive on the kapton surface,

Some speaker repair technicians said that there are self-adhesive versions of cooper wire and self-adhesive versions of kapton material and both are activated with ethyl alcohol and then baked in 350F for 45 minutes to make them stick together,If anyone knows exactly how this sticking process is done by speaker manufacturers, I would like to learnThank you very much in advance

Thoughts about retirement...

Just an interest,

How old do you want to be when you retire?

Any thoughts about jacking in and getting the "Good Life" or is it looking a bit doggy..

Any pitfalls from those that already have...

Thought it might be fun to see what the thoughts are..😱 or :cloud9:

Victor meldrew always comes to mind....
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c1qs_eFRXqs&feature=related


Regards
M. Gregg

Lazy Singing Bush

I forgot how long I have these pcbs; heck, even added (just for giggles) one small cap, just to have a reason to make new gerbers :clown:
Anyway, N-MOS/Schaded N-MOS/SIT source follower, loaded with P-MOS in Mu-Follower arrangement, blatant shameless flipped Xerox of Papa's BAF 2015 amp Mu part

Mosfets are IXYS hockey pucks
SIT can be THF51, 2SK180, 2SK182

Single rail supply, GND up, neg 60Vdc down (remember that GND is State of Mind - I did use +/-30Vdc PSU from my T-Bed 2 accordingly wired, without using center rail)

Iq 3A2

Necessary pictorial info about "main" pcb


(late) edit on Jan 25. 2024. - change of Mu resistors values, as per Ben Mah's suggestion - post #17, https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/lazy-singing-bush.388164/post-7069779

in short - 0R2 at SIT side, 0R3 at puck side

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FHXL questions

I've been looking into Frugel-Horn XLs as I'd like to build my own speakers for mostly low level listening. Having limited woodworking experience and tools, I'm looking at a kit from KJF Audio but have a few questions I'm hoping the hive mind may be able assist with.

Firstly - does anyone have experience of the KJF kits and whether they are a good quality product?

Second - would a Pluvia 11, Alpair 11 or Alpair 10.3 give me the least bright sound in the XL box?
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For Sale Dayton Audio RS225P-4A 8" Reference Woofer 4 ohm - 2 each brand new in their original boxes - I ordered the wrong impedance for my Sunflower Redux

I tested both using DATS3 and they look fine. These are perfect for 1st order XO or a 2-way system. Here's the link to PE item page:
https://www.parts-express.com/pedoc...rs225p-4a-reference-series-specifications.pdf
Current price is $66 each. I'm asking $100 for the pair - i'll cover shipping in the continental US. Who knows what will happen to the PE price once the import tariff is implemented.

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Diy handle options for speakers

Hi.

Handles in PA-speakers: I have used 2 different options:
  1. 100% DIY with a handle-cutout in the plywood and somesort of "box" behind
  2. Store-bougth handles (flip, inserts, metal, plastic).

1) i cheap on materials and typically takes up more volume. 2) is a bit more expensive, less flexible, but takes up less volume and is much faster.

Please share your novel or orginal ideas for handles.

Kind regards TroelsM

Bliesma M74A/B/S buzzing fix

I noticed on some of my Bliesma M74A mids there was an intermittent buzzing sound around Fs (400 - 500 hz) which disappeared when I put pressure on the small WG front flange portion.

Underneath the foam flange sealing gasket on the under side of the driver, there are 4 small allen head screws. I've discovered some these screws have bottomed out in the holes before the full clamping force is imparted on the VC ring asy that is sandwiched between the two metal parts. I did find some excess powerdercoat inside the screw holes, keeping the screws from seating at full depth inside the holes. Chasing the threads with a bottoming tap would likely be the most correct way to fix this, but I don't have an M3/0.5 bottoming tap or thread chaser, so I had to improvise and came up with the following simple fix...

I've inserted a 0.5 mm stainless steel washer under each of the 4 flange screws, which still allows the head of the screw to sit flush with the flange surface.

Important - only deal with one screw at a time !!! You don't want to risk the VC going out of alignment, so be careful. These are precisely aligned components you're dealing with here.

There is a light thread locking compound on these threads, so go slowly and carefully when removing the screws to avoid thread damage. Tighten the screws back to about 4 - 5 inch lbs. (If you need an exact torque figure, this is about right).

You dont need thread locker if you tighten the screws down evenly. Once you mount the driver, it will automatically be compressed together by the baffle screws, so there won't be any chance of the 4 small screws backing out on their own.

The small buzz was completely cured with this fix. It was noticeable on 2 out of my 4 M74As. I'm likely being very picky here, but I didn't want to risk a VC misalignment or shifting with these screws having an uneven clamp load on the VC asy. Again, once you mount the driver, it should no longer be a concern.

20250425_070935.jpg


20250425_071016.jpg

AULA02014 8" + Celestion CDX1 CD with Harsch XO sorta

I bought these drivers back in end August I think it was, and I've finally got a box for 'em. I've measured up the in box response and played around with the results in XSIM. I still have to order XO parts, and do a final sand and finish on the boxes. But I thought I'd share where I'm at.

I kicked out a thread to discuss the drivers when I ordered them, it's https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/tymphany-aula02014-0006-pe-buyout.416365/

Woofer (buyout, NLA) is this 8" tymphany pro audio with a big honker magnet
https://www.parts-express.com/Tymph...-Paper-Cone-Woofer-8-Ohms-299-2265?quantity=1
I got 'em for $17 each!

Compression driver is Celestion CDX1-1446
https://www.parts-express.com/Celes...-Compression-Driver-8-Ohm-299-2257?quantity=1
This one is also a buyout but I think the same driver is available regular production.
I've got it on this JBL Selenium HM17-25 https://www.parts-express.com/Selen...al-Horn-60x40-1-3-8-18-TPI-264-308?quantity=1

I have modeled it up in 30 L and ported at 60 Hz. Software wanted to suggest smaller / higher, but I'm trying to get this thing to dig down far enough to cross to my sub. I have 3D printed a port according to geometry in this Harmon paper about optimizing ports. https://www.diyaudio.com/community/attachments/harman-port-study-pdf.893225/

I was trying to conceptualize how I'd put this speaker together, and I thought of trying to time-align the drivers, so I measured the acoustic offsets. The horn+tweeter came out 70mm behind the driver (mounting features in the same plane), which was more than I was expecting. I had a little thread to consider options about that https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...nique-for-horn-out-front.419357/#post-7851615 eventually I remembered that @xrk971 has a crossover topology that wants the tweeter a fair bit delayed WRT the woofer, and that's the Harsch XO, he's got a thread about it here - https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/s-harsch-xo.277691/. I was considering a 2kHz XO, and the delay according to the Harsch thing was 85mm, so another sheet of plywood for the woofer to sit on was just about right.

So that's about how I dreamed this one up! Here's how it looks...
SpkrFront2.jpg
SpkrBack2.jpg


Ah... every thread is better with pictures. I've got roundover I think it's 1" on the vertical corners. Boxes made of arauco ply 3/4" from Home Depot, I'm still trying to decide how I'm gonna finish them. I like the lines from the ply on front.

Ground plane, on-axis (spkr tilted down to point at the mic) 2m distance acoustic measurements look like this
Measurements No XO.jpg


THD is good on the woofer, and FR is fine to 3k, but I think that is a low baffle step from 100 to 500? Speaker is 12.5" wide. Anyway that shift ended up being around the upper of the two impedance peaks in low woofer response, that made it kinda tricky to correct passively. FR on the tweeter seems pretty nice, but measurement looks like kinda high 2nd order HD.

I've been fiddling with the XO sim to get something I like.... here's where I'm at.

AULA-H2.2k-3.jpg


Initial idea was to have the cross at 2k, but in the course if trying to make it work I have floated up from there. So I think my offset is actually a little too much, and my phase peak is a bit larger than it might have been.

If you go for this sort of XO, it is (quoted from XRK's thread)...

1. Set the low pass filter for the woofer as a 4th order Butterworth at central frequency, fc for the XO centerpoint.
2. Set the high pass filter for the tweeter as a 2nd order Bessel at fc.
3. Set the delay of the tweeter equal to 1/2 of the period of one cycle at fc.
4. Use all positive phase on woofer and tweeter.


Here's what I've learned: 2nd order -acoustic- roll off is pretty slow! 2nd order electrical is normally fine, but when you are looking at the acoustic rolloff that happens naturally that doesn't leave much space to put in electrical protection. So I ended up at higher F than I was initially targeting. It looks like 2nd order electrical on the CD but it's pretty low Q, that inductor is only helping out at lower frequencies. Impedance compensation on the CD can help you get the shape theory wants.

I think I've attached the XSIM file in case anyone wants to play along.

I'm looking forward to hearing these, but I haven't pulled the trigger on XO parts yet. Every time I buy parts a couple days later I'm like "you know what I SHOULDA done...?" so I'm still meditating on it.

What do you think?

- Adam

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For Sale Marantz 8B Project

Hello all, i have a Marantz 8b project for sale if any one is interested.
I lucked into this unit a couple years ago & never got it to work.
The unit is missing the guts of one output transformer but the other is there. I did resistance checks on power tranny and all seems fine. choke is also good as well. It will come with covers.
I’ll post some pics shortly.
Thanks, Mark

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Compression driver threads

Hi.

I thought that all compression drivers used the same thread? When trying to mate Eminence Asd1001 with an mrh-80 horn from Monacor it works fine for the first 5-6 turns, but then it jams up. Data sheets for the parts have the same thread. Comparing with a Noname driver the asd1001 thread is slightly off.

Anyone else tried something like this? I'm tempted to cut of some of the internal thread in horn, but it seems wrong. It should fit?

Kind regards TroelsM

LM3886 chipamp feedback capacitor, yes or no?

I recently built an LM3886 amp, which I posted here. I read that some prefer the sound without the feedback capacitor (Ci on the datasheet) and was wondering why.

I know the DC offset will be higher without the capacitor and I plan on trying that the next time I open it up as I built mine with the feedback capacitor.

My guess would be different bass response but my training is in repair not engineering.

My question is: Can anyone describe the sound difference with and without the feedback capacitor?

Thanks.

datasheet schematic.jpg

Passive Speaker Conversion | DSP Advice (ADAU1701), TinySine TSA8800B vs Wondom JAB5, Bluetooth + High-Quality Audio

I'm about to start my first DIY audio project and build my first active speaker using some passive speakers I already have. The speakers are from a brand called Sonab, and I’ve had them for many years (fuge series).

My goal is to build an active speaker system that will:

  • Connect with other speakers (master-slave setup),
  • Include Bluetooth (with high transfer rates),
  • Have advanced audio inputs,
  • And of course, use a well-designed acoustic enclosure for the speaker.
I studied Electrical Engineering, and during my degree, I took some courses on Signal Processing, including Audio DSP, so I’m not afraid to dive deep and even build the system using separate components if needed. I’d love to end up with a robust system with great sound quality.

During my research, I found two interesting all-in-one boards that seem to cover most of what I need:
Both are based on the same DSP (ADAU1701) and offer similar power output, which seems to match my needs.

However, after reading some threads here on DIYAudio, I noticed that some people don’t fully recommend using these boards and suggest going in another direction—usually more expensive when looking at a full system.

Since I’m willing to explore and buy separate boards to build my own setup, I’d really appreciate some advice:
  • Is there a better DSP/audio processor you'd recommend that has good performance?
  • Has anyone here used TinySine or Wondom (especially JAB5 or TSA8800B) and achieved good sound qualityafter proper DSP configuration?
For reference, my speaker will be around 220W RMS total, built from one woofer, two midrange drivers, and one tweeter. I still need to measure each driver’s individual power, but I couldn’t find full specs yet.

Thanks in advance for your help and tips!
Shay

Sundown SAE-1500D goes into protect when audio is applied

I got this amp from someone so I could attempt to fix it as a way to practice and learn how to repair class d amps. I don’t know what happened to the amp, but half of the PS fets were shorted or exploded, all of the output fets were shorted, there was a short on the 2113S. I checked all the gate resistors they all checked out good, I checked the Zener diodes and they all seem fine. The amp will power up fine, rail voltage is present, high side 59.9V, low side -59.2V. +15vdc and -15vdc is present. However, when audio signal is introduced the amp immediately goes into protect. It does the same if the switch is moved from master to slave. There is .129mV of DC offset.

I don’t know if this amp should have significant dc voltage on pin 16 of the 494 when main power and ground is applied but remote is NOT applied. I’m wondering if this could be the issue because the amp sits at 3.226V with B+ and ground and no remote applied. When remote is applied in the absence of an audio signal, the voltage on pin 16 drops to 2.949V, then when audio signal is applied, voltage on pin 16 jumps to 7.918V and the speaker relay and protect led are triggered. Pin 15 has 4.949 when remote is applied.

I’ve rechecked all of the fets and there are no shorts present. I could find no obvious shorts in the inductor on the output. The amp doesn’t exhibit obvious signs of a short condition on my bench power supply, the supply doesn’t go to constant current mode.

I’m sure I’m missing something, if anyone has any ideas of what I should check, please let me know. Thanks in advance.

Need Luxman L-11 service manual

I am trying to revive a Luxman L-11. This amp hasn't been used in years and needs the DC Offset adjusted and I am sure that the BIAS will require this as well. If anyone has any information on this or has a service manual that they can either share or sell, I would be most grateful. I have found the schematics for this amplifier but there in nothing there that helps with the adjustment of the offset or BIAS.
Thank you all.

Dedicated PSU for DEQ/DCX2496

Hi Folks!

I'm designing a linear dedicated PSU for the Behringer DEQ2496 (and DCX).

I need an advice. In this current draft drawing, the 10v ground is connected to the 15v ground. I don't know if I can connect 2 ground lines for 2 different transformer/rectifier.

Enclosed is my last draft.

Thanks for your help.

Stephane

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List of ZM projects

This list is not exhaustive, so please post/share stuff I've forgotten, other circuits, favorites posts, etc.


Amps



Aleph Jzm
A simplified, UMS-compatible version of the classic Aleph J.
Aleph Jzm

Babelfish F8
A dual rail, dc-coupled variation of the FW F8.
Babelfish F8

Babelfish J
A babelfish'd version of the Aleph J. Standard parts.
About possible Babelfish J interest

Babelfish XJ
A babelfish'd version of the Aleph J with SUSY (Supersymmetry). Standard parts.
Babelfish XJ , or JX …….. or whatever (Aleph X servo for Greedy Boyz)

Babelfish J2
A babelfish'd version of the FW J2. IRFP150's for the OS transistors.
Babelfish ᄅſ....or FW J2 on Steroids .... or Not your Father's J2!

Babelfish M25
A babelfish'd version of the FW M2. Standard parts.
Babelfish M25, AKA M2 on steroids, AKA M2-XA25 bstrd AKA M2 gone Berserk

Babelfish M25 R.2
A babelfish'd version of the FW M2. Standard parts. Different biasing scheme.
Babelfish M25 R.2/SET amp

Babelfish MF A1
A babelfish’d version of Tim De Paravicini’s classic design, minus line stage portion
MF A1 (babelfishing)

Babelfish XA252
A babelfish'd version of the XA25. SOT227 OS parts, SITs optional.
Babelfish XA252 / Babelfish XA252 SIT / Babelfish XA252 SET

Boo/Pooh
Square Law PP Follower Stage, bridged or not (which are going to drive even F4)
The marriage

Il Penitente
A complimentary BJT amp, with iron FE
Il Penitente

LuDEF
DEF amp topology w/ LU1014 power JFET
LuDEF

LuDEF P
DEF amp topology w/ LU1014 power JFET – active FE (Plethora of Pinjatas)
LuDEF P

Old Soul
Germanium output transistors; BJT outputs also possible.
Old Soul

Plethora of Pinjatas/SET P
Square law OS. ZM active FE. Standard parts. Schade option (SET)
Plethora of Pinjatas/SET P amp

Singing Bush
A variation on the SE 50W amp Nelson presented at BAF 2015. SIT version; MOSFET version w/ schade
The Singing Bush

Lazy Singing Bush
A SE 50W follower amp – mu-follower arrangement. SIT, MOS, etc
Lazy Singing Bush

Choked Singing Bush
A SE common source choked amp – USE QUALITY IRON
Choked Singing Bush ..... special one for Purists and Masochists

SissySit
DEF amp with SIT and MOSFET
SissySIT

SissySit R.3
DEF amp with SIT and MOSFET; New biasing scheme
SissySIT R.3

SissySit P
DEF amp with SIT and MOSFET; uses active FE (Plethora)
SissySIT P ..... or how I proved fact of making more Hats than Pa did

SissySit (42)
DEF amp with SIT and MOSFET; fully DC coupled; footprint for K2087
K2087 musings phase two: SissySIT 42 as a cradle

Scryer
DEF OS with single common source JFET FE; fully DC coupled; footprint for K2087
Scryer ..... or how F8 met Mighty SissySIT

Steeplejack
single common source JFET FE; M25-style OS w/ Schade FB
Steeplejack ..... or how F8 met mighty babelfish M25

Stasis OS
Newly designed Stasis OS boards
Stasis Front end

Warbler
Choke loaded source follower; SIT, MOS, or Schade MOS
Warbler MOS Schade MOS SIT choke loaded follower power amp



Line-level



Pumpkin
Balanced transistor amp for swinging the likes of an F4
Pumpkin Preamp - Perfect for F4

Iron Pumpkin; Iron Turtle
Shunt reg + buffer + AVC
Iron Pumpkin(s) and other smaller vegetable animals

Iron Pre
Shunt reg + buffer + autoformer
What's wrong with the kiss,boy ?

PSM LS
Optical line stage
Poor Serbian Man



Misc.



Babysitter
Easy way to cool Class A amps
Babysitter for Papa's Koan

D1 OS
I/V stage from PL D1 (Gerbers)
Pass Labs D1 Dac

Autoformer daughter cards
Handy expansion cards for integrating Cinemag or Jensen PC-mount autoformers into your project (Gerbers)
The F6 revisited

For Sale Stephens Trusonic 150CX full range speakers

Hello all, trying to down size inventory a bit & have a pair of Stephens Trusonic 150cx 15” full range Speakers in very good condition, no tears and both in working condition. I had these mounted on open baffles & do sound great.
Let me know if interested. $500obo.
Regards, Mark

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AD797 Preamp based on stolen trademark

Dear Forumers

I had the chance to listen to the MBL 6010D, an expensive machine and I was truly impressed how it compared with my references in my primary system (Threshold Fet10, and Counterpoint SA5000).

Finally I was amazed to learn that the MBL preamp has its own heart base on AD797s opamps.... This op must be really good, Oh Well MBL mates must also be very smart for getting all that sound out of it!

Now I am putting up a second system with on all-DIY-chain. I was thinking to build a preamp based on the AD797.


I found a Chinese kit:

6010D Preamp PCB Board MBL Circuit DIY Dual to Mono P006 | eBay

Often these Chinese kits are overlooked and sloppy thought. Can somebody tell me whether the circuit above is any reasonable? Do you find any mistakes? Do you think I can get something out of it?

Best Wishes
Pierre

Ferrite Bead Distortion in Class D Amplifiers

Came across a paper sort of similar in nature to Bruno Putzey's work on ferrite distortion/noise in class D amps. Please see attached.

It appears to be something similar to what I have noticed in much lower power DSD dac circuits where ferrite beads are commonly used with the intention of reducing noise problems, but may in actual practice have some adverse side effects by way of adding some distortion/noise of their own.

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  • Thank You
Reactions: lalaina

Where are you buying your Baltic Birch from?

So my local place that I had purchased from closed down.
Need to call around but wanted to inquire where you guys ordered your wood from?
If I could get it precut assume shipping cost reduced.
Looking to get 6-8 full 4x8 sheets. Baltic Birch no filler (I've come across a website selling BB Baltic Birch but looking it it seemed to have filler with outside veneers)

Any other Marine grade plywood or other that is just as good? (density)
These will be tour grade subwoofers (2 at 507Lt box) covered with Duratex or Raptor Liner.

For Sale Objective 2 Preamp

One of my early projects: the Objective 2 (or O2) headphone amplifier, built as a preamp. 4 RCA inputs with rotary selector, one stereo RCA output. Includes 15 volt AC adapter (this is an important detail, don't use a 12v DC adapter!).

Sold

Asking $40 obo, local pickup in San Francisco preferred. Will ship ConUS at cost.

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What type of glue should be used to re-foam a metal Technics SBX500 honeycomb flat disc woofer?

I have spent several hours over the past two days searching for size/shape compatible surrounds. The most likely candidate so far are surrounds from Simply Speakers.

The surrounds attach to the underside of the SBX500 woofer discs which is a shiny metal surface - presumably aluminum.

Two years ago I attempted surround replacement to the undrside of 5" woofers with a poly cone and those surrounds coincidently came from Simply Speakers. That attempt was not successful due to the awkwardess of accessing the underside of the cone and the clear, fast setting adhesive provided by Simply Speakers. I think that clear glue was rubber based. There was not enough time for me to position the surround on the cone before the glue got too stickey to work with. They then sent me some conventional slower setting white glue.

I expect that gluing a surround to the underside of these Technics SBX500 woofer discs will be fiddly and somewhat time consuming. My question is will the conventional white' slower setting glue bond properly with the metal surface of the disc's inderside?

The attached photos are as they are now. The residual old surround material on the disc's underside is still in place. I am debating on attempted removal by blade & scraping or trying some type of solvent.

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For Sale TacT Audio S2150X Digital Amplifier

Hey all,

I have a Tact S2150X Digital Amplifier (Silver Faceplate) with volume remote for sale, It has the Equibit chipset, and has Digital only inputs (no analog inputs)...basically an integrated PowerDAC. Its 150 watts @ 8 ohms and 300 watts @ 4 ohms. Amp also has the ability to do high or low pass crossover outputs.

The amp firmware has the latest version (unfortunately, the latest firmware REMOVED the Room Correction ability that the peramps have - why would they do this?)

Works great - I have two, but will be holding onto one. Also have a Tact RCS 2 Preamp (Black Faceplate) that does the room correction also available...

Asking $725 + ship...

Specs:
Power (RMS. per channel) 8 ohm 2 x 150W Power (RMS. per channel) 4 ohm 2 x 300W
Output current (peak, per channel) >50 A
Signal-to-noise ratio ( A-weighted) >110dB
Dynamic range (20 Hz - 20 kHz) >130dB
THD+N (all power levels 20Hz-20kHz) <0.01%
Digital resolution 16-24 bit Linearity (-120dB) +- 0,2dB
Dimensions (WxHxD) 450x140x420 mm 17.7x5.5x16.5 in.
Weight (shipping) 18 kg / 37 lbs

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For Sale ESP P101 Amp

For Sale: Elliot Sound Products P-101 Amp. One of my favorite amps, and has been used on conventional, planar and Electrostatic speakers...

Powered by a SMPS and housed in an old Hafler Chassis. Looks and sounds great...with +/-60v rails, over 300 watts @4 ohms. Exicon output devices.

$350 + ship, or pick up in West sub of Chicago...

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For Sale Tripath TA0103A Stereo Amp

Amp built years ago when TA0103A were popular - with a Hypex SMSP400 SMPS. Turn on and Turn off thump (these Tripaths were notorious for these thumps) have been mitigated with delays.

Sounds great / clean. See attached pics and Application notes.

Ships from West sub of Chicago

How's $450 + ship? CONUS only please....

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For Sale Yaquin MS-110B

Hey all, seeing quite a few Yaquins on Swap Meet, so thought to post mine...

Yaquin MS-110B Tube amp. 50 watts/channel. Biased set and ready to go. New-ish tubes that test very good on my tester. Comes with original manual, fancy remote and cage removal tool. Slight scratching on top from cage, but very clean condition.

Output power: 50W + 50W (6Ω)
Harmonic Distortion: ≤ 1.9% (1kHz)
Frequency Response: 10Hz - 65kHz (-2dB)
SNR: ≥ 85dB (A)
Input sensitivity: ≤ 0.3V (1kHz)
Load Impedance: 4Ω-8Ω
Tube: KT88 × 4 12AU7 × 2 12AT7 × 2
Dimensions: (length) 300mmX (W) 420mmX (high) 200mm
Weight: approximately 25 kg

Features: (from ebay ad...quite funny)

  • Power tubes use the latest improved KT88-98 and strong output push-pull circuit.
  • Preamplifier part is as "SRPP" circuit and excellent "long tail" type inverter circuit. So that a wider frequency response and better sound quality.
  • Audio output transformer dedicated silicon steel imported from Japan (0.35mm thick) and oxygen-free copper wire and special high-strength multi-layer winding process grouping production (divided into 15 layers), so that the machine wide frequency response, ensuring high the machine, , the low-frequency sounds good, transparent and powerful.
  • The machine adopts well-know brand dedicated audio BC capacitors and also Philipps (MKP) nonpolar capacitor.
  • High quality gold-plated resistor, the main channel using a dedicated sound Japan (ALPS) volume motor potentiometer with quiet background music, noise low, no sound pollution and durable.
  • High voltage power supply for the automatic delay control, can effectively extend tubes life.
  • Switch between ultra-linear (UL) and three poles (TR) connection mode, to meet different user needs.
  • Function with remote control and high quality headphone output.

New on ebay around $1200...How about $750?

Pick up in West sub of Chicago...or can ship for $$ (55 pounds)

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Son of HF - Big Flower

Big Flower - the logical sequel to Horn Flower.

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Initial design concept study outcome - the stands in the top picture is what I will end up with.

I have had a lot of fun and learnt much from HF. Some things with them are really desirable and I wanted to see if they could be improved on... and a reason to get a 3D printer 😉

Positives: Great clarity, resolution and timing.
Negatives: Small(er) stage (but very precise), limited low bass and som midrange anomalies (comb filtering) due to that the 4 woofers plays quite high (1400 Hz)

Also the bild quality of the "box" was pretty sketchy and despite the cool "hair", it probably generated quite a lot of diffraction.

So to keep the positives and remedy the negatives, enter the Big Flower.

Same concept but with improvements (finger crossed):
  • 260mm diameter horn -> 520mm
  • 4pcs of 4" bass driver -> 6pcs of 5,5
  • XO@1400 -> 800 (hopefully, 900/1k still ok)
  • Larger volume per driver - > improved lows
  • ATH G2 inspired horn at full width should decrease diffraction
  • Lower XO should mean less LF drivers c-c distance interference
  • Thanks to bass driver placement and stands/mount design, the LF drivers will be much closer to wall and with less c-c despite being larger,

Potential new negatives:
  • Only one cavity so now the actual horn is a pressurised surface of the closed/infinite baffle - vibration?
  • Using a 1,4" CD instead of a 1" might have impact on top octave
  • Increased depth (5cm) gives a longer distance between LF drivers and horn mouth... integration...
  • Heavy

The way they where designed and realised was by 3D modelling, molds printed from PETG and casting in concrete. I like concrete - its a varm, nice and strong material 🙂

It was obvious from the beginning that I could not get a printer to make the horns in one cast so it had to be divided and later glued together. I used Sikaflex 291 for this as it had proven very stable and strong when I built my concrete baffle Line Source. All drives were glued to the concrete and still sits there safely.

I did some simulation on speaker level for the Horn FLower which gave some hints that it could work and I think the result mimic'd the simulations quite well. Therefore I didn't do any for the BF because I don't think it is needed - concept works and I feel the new dimensioning can only be better. And then there is CamillaDSP 🙂

Recipe (for a pair):
  • Qidi Q1 Pro
  • PETG 4-5 rolls (quite some trails, mistakes and re-thinking done - 3rd time a charm...)
  • 2x HF SB ROSSO-65CDN-T
  • 12x LF SB15nac30-4
  • 3,5 x 20kg bags of fibre reinforced floor levelling concrete: Weberflow 120 Reno DR
  • 2 tubes of Sikaflex 291
  • Div metal parts for the hanger force distribution box
  • Rubber mat for horn/basket gasket
  • 2x stands out of iron and concrete (of course! 😉)
  • 1 pcs of 1977837 ATH A520G2 from Cults3D - even if I wasn't planning to print this exact horn I wanted to contribute to @mabat fantastic project and products. The profile was modified and simulated in ATH/VACS to give a bit wider dispersion.
  • Dedicated electronic in one box - 230V in, wifi/eth and 2 pairs / ch of cabling. TBD...

So these will be prototypes and have a number of known "errors" already. They where identified during the path of design, both in modelling, casting and dry assembly but half way in I decided to go ahead with these "less perfect" aspects as I realised that it will take one round before I get them "perfect" (never!) anyways.

So what are these problems:

- It was harder than I could imagine to make a mold for a 60 degres part when it came to rotate a profile, make 6 of them and assemble them to a full circle unit. Sketchup could not do it. I got a plugin that was better but then I made som assumptions about how to get some room for the glue which I overestimated and got 5mm instead of 1. Next time, calculate please! 🙂 But I didn't find out until I had made 5 and then I decided to continue anyways.

- Perhaps I have made the concrete goods a little to thick - they have been called tanker stoppers 🙂 and they will be heavy - 40kg+ - a challenge for me to handle. Better have some help during first trials.

- and several minor improvements...

To date, I have all components ready to be assembled except the stands but they are waiting order confirmation.

I will continue posting about the assembly process, measuring and dialling in.

Tnx for reading - comments welcome.

//

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Aleph Jzm Kit Build Support

This thread's purpose is to assist builders with their Aleph Jzm kits.

For general discussion, customization, parts substitutions, or anything unrelated to the kits, The Aleph Jzm thread is perfect.

The goal is to have this thread be a quick source for relevant information for kit builders. It will also be used as a source of information to update the Aleph Jzm Build Guide. At this time, comments are not active in the build guide.

For builders specifically needing help with their power supply, please search for a thread supporting your specific power supply, create a separate thread as needed, or post your question in the The Aleph Jzm thread.
  • For those using ThatcherDIYAudio PSU boards like those used in the guide, their build guide is excellent. Attached below. If there are updates, I'll be sure to re-post.
  • For those building a PSU with the Universal PSU boards from the diyAudio store, the PSU section in the DIY Aleph J: A Build Guide blog is an excellent resource in addition to many threads in this forum.
For those needing assistance with their amplifier boards or overall assembly and wiring, please post the following:

1) The current step # from the AJzm build guide.
2) Well-lit, in-focus photos of the build in its current state.
3) A description of the issue or question.

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Sonido fullrange driver thoughts?

Hello everyone. I am helping a friend with a fullrange project. He wanted some Voxativ drivers but, saw the price and just to much money. We stumbled upon a company called Sonido fullrange driver's. Looks really nice. Not to many reviews but the gallery has a lot of customers using these driver's. Also they are not to much money compared to other fullrange driver's. I did e mail the owner very nice and very helpful. I like that. So what are your thoughts and have you heard or know of anyone that has used or heard these fullrange driver's? Thanks jm

Aleph Jzm

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What Is An Aleph Jzm?

The Nelson Pass designed First Watt Aleph J is a classic. @Zen Mod created this version of the Aleph J to make the project more approachable to newer builders while maintaining the characteristics of the original. For more advanced DIYers and those that like to experiment, there are options to use a variety of JFETs and customize the circuit to suit personal tastes. For those that don't know Zen Mod, he was gracious enough to post a video to introduce himself and share a few thoughts. It can be found on YouTube.

What’s In The kit?

All the electronics components needed to complete a pair of amplifier PCBs, including 8 matched JFETs.

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What Is Needed To Complete The Full Project?

At this time, a complete kit including everything required to complete an amplifier is not available. You’ll need a power supply, chassis, wiring, and a few other parts. Everything you need can be purchased directly from the diyAudio store and well-known retailers world-wide. Suggestions are included in the build guide, and/or you can customize to your heart’s content.

What Skill Level Is Required?

This project is intended for intermediate to advanced DIYers. It may be the perfect project after an Amp Camp Amp. Newer builders willing to do a little studying should have no trouble following the build guide. However, it is critical that builders know how to identify parts from schematics, match those parts to PCB locations based on the silkscreen, and have good soldering skills. Most importantly, all builders are responsible for their own safety and must understand essential safety practices and precautions when dealing with mains powered electronics.

Feel free to review the Aleph Jzm Build Guide in advance if you're trying to determine if this project might be for you. The guide will continue to be updated. The Aleph Jzm Kit Build Support thread is also available if you have questions.

Elektor's Preamplifier 2012 in 2017

The purpose of this thread is aimed for people who (or recently completed) are currently undergoing construction of the Elektor Preamplifier 2012 that was published in April, May and June 2012.
See these links.
https://www.elektormagazine.com/labs/preamplifier-2012-1-introduction-and-line-intonevolume-board-110650

http://https://www.elektormagazine.com/magazine/elektor-201204/19844

Your constructions, ideas, problems, images etc would be valuable for other constructors to view.

Although, most readers will be familiar with the Elektor project, below i have list some basic details below.
Printed Circuits Boards for this project are available direct from Elektor: -

LLLL BOARD (110650-6V120) £14.95
POWER SUPPLY BOARD (110650-5V110) £16.95
FRONT PANEL BOARD (110650-4V110) £11.95
INPUT BOARD (110650-3) £22.95
Preamplifier 2012 (2) (110650-2) £22.95
LINE-IN/TONE/VOLUME BOARD (110650-1) £22.95

My Experience at a HIFI Audio Convention - AXPONA 2025

I asked the question some months back: How do our loudspeakers compare to expensive, high end, HIFI brand loudspeakers?"

I have answers.


The Short of it:
For those of you who do not want to read this entire write up I will be kind and put my summary up top in a bullet list. There was 3 of us who went. One musician, one loudspeaker builder, and one wife who only ever listens to the system the former two have and doesn't know how any of it works. We listened to 60 systems in one day. Back to back to back. We then came home and listened to my systems.

The BAD
  • Most of them do not sound good
  • Most of them have a roughness to the upper mids that just sounds terrible. They use these great drivers but drive them straight into their cone resonances. This was the #1 thing we all found wrong with about 80% of the systems
  • I swear they pick their crossover points at random. Their crossover networks are pretty goofy
  • A lot of them have phase issues. You stand up and it just sucks. You move to the left and it sucks. You have to sit directly center
  • Some of them were amazing. These were generally ones where the loudspeaker designer was right there in the room and you could ask him questions. I will get to these units in a bit
  • Anything with DSP had a roughness to it. Every single one of us, by the 3rd floor, could walk into a room blind folded and tell you if it was a DSP system or a passive system. Passive ALWAYS sounded better. We listened to about 60 systems back to back throughout the course of a day. DSP to the 3 of us = no good. Was not really subjective. It was objective.
  • A lot of them beam really badly. The ones that don't, have a harsh upper mid range
  • Do more expensive drivers sound better? Yes, if you use them properly. Saw some $400 drivers implemented horrendously and some implemented properly. And everything inbetween. But mostly the former.

The good

  • A couple of systems were just incredible. All of these except two had the loudspeaker designer in the room.
  • The better systems used either bespoke of expensive drivers.
  • There were a couple mid tier systems that sounded really good.
You can skip the individual review and go to my comparisons with my own loudspeakers at the very bottom
Lets go through one by one now (I am not going to include most of the bad ones. They sounded so bad I had to just get out of there. If it isn't listed below here and it was at the show, it sounded like crap):

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This 4 way was great. It had dynamics and a lightness. Lows were washed out but it was still good

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This was ATC. I hear people praise their old mid dome here so I checked them out.

This two way was horrendous. One of the worst speakers at the show. The driver on the table is what they were showing off. Do not buy this thing. It was sticky, like someone covered it in honey. I would guess in your house it'd be covered in dust within a couple weeks. Bad, just all bad.

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Morel

These were great. The mid is the one up top and is ported. The woofers down below are also ported. These were REALLY good. I spoke with the engineer about how they don't measure or simulate well. He explained their motor design in detail. It will not simulate right because their design is so different. They have special software they have to use for their motor designs. The price point of morels now looks very attractive to me.

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This one wasn't playing. I just thought it was a fun design with the dual AMTs in front of the woofer

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MTM Illuminator design. What's not to like? Horrendous upper mid range. So sharp and attacking. Not good. Lows were good, not very dynamic. No idea what they cost but its too much. Feel like the designer dropped the ball here.

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I will now never build a line array. This thing just sounded odd. Like a blade of people singing on the left and then a blade of instruments on the right. It was all washed out vertically. Hard to explain. Not a fan. None of us liked this, all of us thought it was just strange sounding. And not strange in a good way.
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Full range driver build by Songer. Second best sounding full rang behind a Voight pipe Alpair 11 build. This thing was great. Good dynamics, good upper mid range, very nuetral, good dyanmics. It had it all. It is a giant full range so it beamed like crazy. Move your head left or right and the tone changes. But still very good.

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I think these are called frugal horns? Big woofer and a compression driver. Engineer was in the room. Not my cup of tea but the BEST compression driver I have ever heard. He crosses these to the woofer at 700 hz. Pretty impressive and fluid, natural sound out of these. The big woofer lacked dynamics to say the least.

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Triangle Art

These were bad. Like just plain bad. Maybe they would sound good if you were 60 feet back in a big room? Crazy directional. Everything sounded muddy. All looks, no beauty.

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AudioVideo Artistry

******* AMAZING. What do the Accuton driver's sound like? ******* AWESOME. End game design right here. Nothing topped these except their big brother which will be on this list somwhere. These Accuton drivers are insane. I think he has at least $7k, at LEAST, worth of drivers and crossover components in each of these.

Do expensive drivers sound better? In this case, YES YES YES, they ******* do. I had to shake this man's hand. Can't stop gushing over these.

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Alright, we need to chat about these domes. This dome was, BY FAR, the best mid at the entire show. Everything else pales in comparison to these. I asked him if I could buy a set of the mids and he said I could. I just have to call Playback Distribution and ask for a replacement pair. I will be buying a set. Maybe we can get a group buy together? I'm telling you, you haven't heard ANYTHING like this before. These are like sorcery. I will be making a second post where I try to buy these. This is a game changing driver.

As a speaker in totallity these were AWESOME. They are small, but they blow out of the water almost everything else at the show. Another one where the engineer was in the room. I spoke with him 3 times today. Kept coming back.

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These were ok. Harsh upper mid. Tweeter were good but they ran them too low. A lot of expensive stuff to sound like garbage. Crazy.

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26" dual opposed woofer. It shakes the building. Sounds no different from my coffee table subwoofer in my office. This doesn't hit as low as my coffee table. Impressive...... if you don't have a coffee table that hits to 11 hz.


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Tannoy

You like jazz? These are for you. Grainy, poor imaging, you are hyper aware that the sound is coming from the speaker. No low end dynamics. Great for trumpets and a saxophone. Pretty sure they were made for that.

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My first taste of open baffle. My buddy liked them. I did not. Sounds all washed out. Someone moved a table and the guy had to jump on the dsp to correct the room again. Not for me. Zero bass

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More open baffle. More of the same, washed out and not defined. These had bass because of the horn. That was even a little washed out.

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Harsh upper mid. Looks cool, doesn't sound very good.

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PS Audio

These are some of the best at the show. If you can tame a mid planar, nothing really compares for silky smooth vocals. Paul did it right. I have half a mind to use a planar mid for every mid I do even though I just gushed over those mid domes.

What was the the last gig/concert you went to?

I had fun last night at Bryan Adam’s “So Happy it Hurts” gig in Dublin’s 3Arena.

I found I knew the majority of the songs and a live Rock gig is always fun. He has a prolific back catalogue!

Great performances all round and some fun with videos and the “So Happy it Hurts” flying car!

Bryan comes over very well and really engages with the audience. He was on stage for over 2 hours and it was entertaining throughout.

Since this an audio forum, I should mention the sound! 🙂 it was very good, not short on volume, but not deafeningly loud either. The drum kit packed a hell of a punch as you would hope, and sound was clear without being fatiguing. The screaming guitar solos were clear without melting your eardrums. My inner audio nerd wanted to measure the SPL but I managed to resist!

Overall a thumbs up, no complaints, and well worth the price of admission.

What was your last gig experience?

Jeff.
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Long tail pair help

I wanted to build a DIY amplifier for my speaker. I just assembled it on a perfboard for testing, and when I tried adjusting the bias, nothing happened. When I checked, there was no bias voltage, so I started checking from the long-tailed pair and found weird voltages. I tried replacing the current mirror transistors (Q4 and Q3), and there was no difference, so I tried replacing Q5 and Q1, but nothing. Looking at the board, I don’t really see missing connections. I tried disconnecting the VAS, and nothing really changed. Where should I look?
ltp1.jpeg.png

Evening from London

Just to introduce myself, have been modifying and playing with electronics, mainly audio, for years, in the early days often fixing them after I'd broken them ! Work in IT, networking, virtualisation etc and electronics is a hobby, for fun. Have a number of classic (old, British) transistor amplifiers all modified in some form or another.

Latest is Lehmann Audio BCL which needs fixing after somebody tried upgrading it and just went too far.

Looking to build more and fix less, I'd like to try building a tube amp.
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For Sale Nearly New Old Stock Drivers (Some are High End!)

I am not going to get around to using these drivers. This is a good opportunity for those of you that haven't experimented with high end drivers to get some for much cheaper than retail!

Prices listed are before shipping. Buy the whole set for even more discount!

I will ship to continental USA, only.

PM for offers and to request any more details.

Pictures in following posts.

Update:
AT drivers sold.
Millennium tweeters sold.



ManufSeriesModelNom Dia (in.)Nom Imp (Ohm)QtyLinkRetailSaleTotalNotes
Audio TechnologyFlexUnits4 H 52 06 13 SD482AT 4H---Used. Light scratches on frame. One surround has a slight wrinkle.
B&CDE360-8182DE360$ 100.07$ 75.00$ 150.00Very lightly used. Only one connected for testing. Mounted to ME20 waveguides.
AccutonC2 23/61.262Accuton TwNLA$ 150.00$ 300.00Supposedly the same model as C30-6-023. Very lightly used. In fantastic shape.
AccutonC2 89/T6562Accuton MdNLA$ 150.00$ 300.00Supposedly the same model as C90-6-089. Very lightly used. In fantastic shape.
SEASExcel MilleniumT25CF002-06162SEAS Millennium Tw---Very lightly used. Some paint chipping on one frame.

For Sale Fancy Foil Coils for Less!

A bunch of foil coil inductors available. Some are lightly used, some are more used. They all at least have holes drilled in the ends of the leads. The Jantzens are very lightly used. Some were previously mounted. The Alphacores are more used. Some of them have roughed up leads.

Plus a couple big 12G 3.3 mH solid core inductors.

All from very good manufacturers.

Prices listed are prior to shipping, which will be worked out with the buyer. I will only ship to continental USA.

PM for offers and to request any more details.

Pictures in following post.

ManufacturerAWGmHOhmQtyLinkRetailSaleTotal
Jantzen122.20.292J1€ 104.30$ 60.00$ 120.00
Jantzen140.680.22J2€ 34.90$ 20.00$ 40.00
Jantzen140.620.192J3€ 36.69$ 20.00$ 40.00
Jantzen140.560.182J4€ 34.77$ 20.00$ 40.00
Jantzen160.270.162J5€ 24.90$ 10.00$ 20.00
Jantzen160.110.11J6$ 20.95$ 10.00$ 10.00
Intertechnik153.30.62IT1$ 57.18$ 30.00$ 60.00
Alpha-Core121.82AC1$ 104.70$ 50.00$ 100.00
Alpha-Core121.52AC2$ 99.30$ 50.00$ 100.00
Alpha-Core140.822AC3$ 47.50$ 25.00$ 50.00
Alpha-Core140.272AC4$ 28.70$ 15.00$ 30.00
ERSE16200.5582E1$ 39.00$ 20.00$ 40.00

True Wireless Stereo (TWS) Bluetooth for Speakers

True Wireless Stereo (TWS) Bluetooth for Speakers

Hi Folks,
I am looking for a way to have two physically separated wirelss Bluetooth speakers play stereo. I do not want a wire connection between the left and the right and I want it to connect like a single BT device. I know that this is possible as I have several earbuds and headphones that do this. They ususally call this TWS (true wireless stereo) and I have searched and searched but have failed to find either a line level TWS receiver pair or a simple Class D amp pair with TWS. I know that if I hacked into the wireless earbuds, I could indeed take the headphone outputs and connect them each to a power amp and make my own TWS amplifier. But that seems silly. Surely, there must be a commercial off the shelf solution for this already?

The idea here is to have a stereo BT speaker set, physically placed in a room. I do not want clutter from a wire running from the left to the right one.

I do not need a lot of power. 5W or 15W woud be enough.
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DIY Active crossover (AKA DIY MiniDSP) based on ADAU1466

Hello guys 😉

This is my current project. Its a MiniDSP style active crossover heavily inspired by Cyperpits Octavia. Its still a work in progress and most of all a experimentation/test bed for me to learn how to design audio electronics.
APM2 DSP with amps IV.jpg
ADAU1466 DSP 3.jpg

It's based on a ADAU1466, similar to what is used in the fusion amps. The goal is to have a stereo analog input, SpDif in and out as toslink and RCA, 8 analog outputs and a trigger out to wake up amps as signal is detected.

For now I have only finished my "DSP core board" The DAC's and ADC are just cheap aliexpress modules for now. I almost finished my own DAC and SPDIF-out board based on the PCM5102A's. The ADC board is also conceptually done but still needs a lot of schematic and pcb work. This is what it looks like on the inside.
ADAU1466 DSP 2.jpg


When I get my own DAC and ADC board the connections to the DSP board will be done via ribbon cables with every second line being GND to ensure good signal integrety.
I designed it this way with seperate PCB's as it allows me to focus on one thing at a time without making it unnecesarily tight and expensive to iterate. I can then try different DAC's or ADC's at a later time without having to pay for a new DSP chip and vice versa. It needs a fairly big box to allow all the connections on the back anyway.. Each pcb is 99x99 mm so they stay in the cheap range at JLCPCB. Its a 4 layer PCB with SIG on top, GND, POWER and SIG/GND on the bottom. Im currently using a Wondom ICP5 to program the DSP instead of the expensive USBi as I had it on hand. However, I hope to be able to make my own USB programmer based on the freeusbi and integrate it on the board eventually. But the software part of that scares me a bit as I have zero idea how it works with windows drivers and whatever..

It all started because I was playing around with a Wondom Jab5. I really loved Sigma Studio but I really did not like the wondom quality. The noise floor was unacceptable and eventually one of the amplifier chips on the board just died.. Having fallen in love with sigma studio I couldn't just go with a minidsp and my fusion amps also do not allow you to use sigma studio even though it is beeing used behind the scenes in both devices. I couldn't find any other product with less questionable quality than the wondom or the likes...
So I got the brilliant idea of making my own xD
As a Mechanical engineer I knew that I was waaay out of my comfort zone. However, thanks to opensource projects such as FreeDSP, analog devices excellent documentation and engineering support, and youtube channels such as Phil's lab it seems it may actually be possible for me to make something that works 😍

The DSP board is working and the overall unit performs surprisingly well. I belive the limiting factors currently is mostly the ADC and to some extend the power delivery for the ADC's which will be much improved in my own design. However, I have some wierd issues that I am currently trying to trouble shoot:
  1. When the ICP5 is connected I get a lot of audible noise in the speakers both white noise, a whine and some kind of periodical ticking. It goes away when the programmer is disconnected again. This was also the case when using wondom dsp's with this programmer. Im not sure if it will be different with a USBi or if its something with my design. I was considdering to add some kind of isolation between the ICP5 and my DSP but was afraid to overcomplicate things in the first go.
    Any ideas how to get rid of this? it is a bit annoying when experimenting in sigma studio.

  2. I get a bit of noise and a periodical clicking noise as soon as I connect my AC/DC adapter. Even though my DSP is turned off (I only break the positive line, the negative is connected directly to the DSP board) and no source is connected. This is the adapter i use: Ac-adapter-100-240v-to-12v-3a-dc
    I also tried a 7v mean well one, while it gets significantly better its still there. Not sure if theese adapters are simply not suited for audio, or if my power interface is to simple. with limited knowledge on this matter i pretty much coppied the Octavia power input with some small changes (added a fuse and a diode to the reverse polarity circuit).
    Power input.png


  3. I am having some wierd EEPROM issues. Most of the time it works as intended but sometimes it just refuses to write the program to the EEPROM. The wierd thing is I do not change any settings related to the EEPROM to stop it working or to get it working again. It seems pretty random. Its not related to on time. Can this be a SPI noise thing? related to the ICP5 (guess not because sigma stuido can talk to the DSP just fine)?. Faulty EEPROM?


Please critizie all you want, I want to learn from this 😀

Big plans.. Keystone and SyntripP building starting!

Hi All,

Florent here, Frenchie living in London at the moment.

I had different little handmade but bought sound systems in the past and decided now to build my own little stack..
Plan is for a pair of Keystone, a pair of HD15 and a pair of SyntripP.
Wood is just getting cut and I have a few queries to get through this project !

Best

Florent

MacMini M4 ... is it still of known Apple quality?

Have one. It was bought 12 March 2025. Today it stopped working after a reboot because of a macOS update. Orange LED blinking.... No recovery possible.

Felt wrong when I got it. A smart phone without display that can't make telephone calls. Half of the weight of the previous one, no USB A ports at all (many many devices are USB A), 3.5 mm audio output at the front (WHY?) but worse of all a power switch at the bottom. This stupid design decision made me wanting to skip it but the flesh is weak. I guess my feelings were right, this seems a cheap knockoff of what the Mac Mini used to be and the power button is spitting regular customers in the mouth. Of course I want the thing to shutdown every day, no normal soul leaves stuff powered on for no reason. Why does it otherwise even have a power on/off switch?

It is (was...) fast but so was the previous one. Well does this prove that it is not of the known Apple quality? No it does not but it is the first Mac that dies on me (except the notorious 27" iMac) in such a short time. Less than a month old. Thankfully the M2 still was here.

EZ-Dump: dump your current without really trying

Here is a new project, virtual for the time being, but I'll certainly give it a try one of these days.

It is a current dumping amplifier, but with an originality: the class A amp is based on a boosted-rails opamp. This means that the signal part of the amplifier is minimal, and that any standard opamp having a maximum supply of 36V (or even less) is suitable.

The pic shows the circuit and its operation, with the supply rails moving in a "telescopic" fashion about the output voltage, and keeping their difference ~constant.

The basic principles of the technique are detailed here: http://joebrown.org.uk/images/DualPSU/BootstrappingOpAmps.pdf

Unlike a conventional opamp amplifier, two resistive dividers are involved in the gain, and the actual gain is determined by the difference in the ratio's of the dividers.
If we call K- the ratio of the divider of the (-) output and K+ that of the (+) input, the gain can be written as (1 - K-)/(K- - K+).

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Using the TangBand W3-881SJF as a mid driver / crossover questions

I have some questions (to this always greatly helpfull community!):

1. How do I overcome the nasty impedance peak of the Tang Band W3-881SJF Full range unit? I was hoping to use this as a mid driver from 400Hz to 4000Hz in a 3 way design. But I am worried about the huge impedance peak this driver has.

2. A lot of people are writing or talking online about complex crossovers sucking the life out of the sound.. (am I thinking about impedance correction networks and notch filters here?)

I would like to pair a 10" sealed or 8" ported woofer to this driver, and have a tweeter take over on top where the 3" driver starts loosing on dispersion of energy.
but I am very uncertain how to go about this.. Any thoughts are welcome! (By the way, the speaker is to be used in a domestic situation for stereo music listening in a livingroom. My main goal here is to have as wide a range of frequencies come from a very small point, to obtain fantastic stereo imagery.

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For Sale Pair(s) of vintage NFLü-325

Signal transformers made according Deutsche Post specifications via Pflichtheft so very stringent high quality requirements.

I have F&G, Sedlbauer and a few other brands. Pairs are of course both the same brand and year of manufacture (most are made in 1985).

All measure equally well. They are flat from 20 Hz to 20 kHz. They weigh 970 gram a piece. When you are used to Aliexpress stuff these are something else with 0.00xx% distortion at 2 Vrms in the whole audio band. They can be used 2:1, 1:1 and 1:2. They are 80 x 90 x 40 mm. Please note that they have all the mechanical and electrical items one likes to have like shielded casing, static screen and incredibly good performance. Maximum voltage is 60V 😀 Sound quality simply is excellent.

I think 150 Euro a pair ex shipping within mainland Europe is a fair price. They won’t be shipped to any destination outside Europe.

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WinISD resolution

I have WinISD installed on my MacBook Pro 16, via Bootcamp and Windows 10- when I open it, the screen is zoomed out so far that I can't even read it with readers on. I've tried changing the screen scaling, but that just zooms in on a portion if the window and doesn't allow me to scroll to the fields I need to access. Is there a solution to changing the resolution that I'm missing? System preferences doesn't seem to work, what else can I try? will installing an older version help?
TIA

Interdyn and SEAS drivers and crossover combination

I have built some speakers by combining parts of two others, using SEAS and Vifa drivers. First impressions were quite positive, however after a while they can be a but tiring/harsh. I'm interested in thoughts on my approach.

I started with some Interdyn P32's with blown tweeters and melted crossovers. These use a SEAS 25 F-EW 10" woofer. It's a small-ish sealed box which appears similar to Dynaco A25 and has fibreglass insulation. I decided that keeping this box would ensure the right parameters for the driver.

Separately, I had some Sony SSU-280 speakers that were missing the 10" woofer. These are unusual for Sony in that they used scandinavian drivers, a Vifa K10MD-18 mid range and D19TD-05 tweeter. I'm almost certain the original driver is a Peerless 830668 based on the size of the cutout and what was around at the time they were made, but I can't be 100% sure.

In any case, what i did was pulled the tweeter, midrange and crossover from one box, to make sure the cutoff frequencies were right, and put them in the other box that had the woofer matched to the enclosure. Should work ok, right?

NIC opamp VAS topology

I've come up with a possible new topology for the input stage and VAS of an amplifier using opamps well above their normal voltage limits.

Background:

A negative impedance converter (NIC) is an opamp circuit that synthesizes a negative input impedance. In the diagram point A is the where the negative impedance is created.

NIC.png
NIC.png


the input impedance formula is: - R1 * R3 / R2

Here that's - 15k x 10k / 5k = -30k

So I add +30k as R4 to this, creating zero impedance at input - or put another way a current-mode input. With this circuit each milliamp of current at the input gives 40V at the output, and the opamp magically keeps the input at virtual ground.

Note that the opamp inputs are at 30V when the output is hypothetically at 40V - in other words if we can bootstrap or float the opamp supply suitably this circuit only sees a differential of 10V across its terminals for each mA of input current.

Given a real opamp capable of running at +/- 18V, and able to drive to within 3V of each rail, we have 30V of voltage differential available, so this circuit with 3mA input would see point A at 90V and the output at 120V (and similarly for negative swings).

I split R3 into two equal parts to provide a bootstrap voltage that's midpoint between the inputs and output of the opamp, and use zeners and BJTs to bootstrap the supply so it can swing up and down with the signal.

opamp_NIC_bootstrapping.png

opamp_NIC_bootstrapping.png


The left hand opamp does the input and loop feedback, the right hand one is the NIC.


Note that the bootstrapping takes a small amount of current from the network, distorting the behaviour slightly. However the first opamp closes a feedback loop around the whole circuit (its the input stage in effect) which re-linearizes this. Driving the current into the negative impedance converter effectively boosts the open loop gain as this integrates the input opamp's voltage signal.

I fiddled around with compensation in an ad-hoc manner, to get the simulation stable and not too horrid on clipping or square waves, but there's lots more fun to be had working on compensation on a breadboarded version I think 🙂

The ratio R1+R2 : R2 sets the voltage swing magnification factor of the circuit. This can be tailored to the voltage rails - here 120V = 4 x 30V (where 30V is my opamp signal swing range), so I've used a ratio of 4, ie R1 = 3 * R2.

I've added rudimentary diode input and output protection to the opamp stages, and the high value of the inter-stage resistor allows this to limit currents to safe levels - again experimentation with a breadboarded circuit as to the robustness of the scheme is needed.

The output stage and biasing arrangements are just lashed up as a demo for simulation - for instance voltage limits and secondary breakdown limits are no doubt completely exceeded and there's no thermal compensation! I'm not so interested in comments about these parts of the circuit 🙂

But comments on the idea are very welcome!

[PS Some of the images from posts below seem to have vanished recently, I'll include them here:

NIC_plot.png:
NIC_plot.png

NIC_wave.png:
NIC_wave.png

NIC_wave_detail.png:
NIC_wave_detail.png

NIC_scope.png:
NIC_scope.png
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Schematic for Threshold 400A S/N 770811 Needed

The schematic I downloaded from the internet differs substantially from the amplifier I have on my bench. It shows MPSA42 devices and a different number of diodes, as well as different capacitors. The unit I'm working on has MPSL01 devices, so I suspect it's an older model than depicted on schematic I have.

Problem in brief>

Right channel clipping positive peaks at 80 watts output (observed on bench). Customer complains it's sometimes making loud static/noise.

This far, I have checked voltage drop across all .33-ohm emitter resistors. Also did an ohmmeter check of same parts. It looks like all the output devices are functioning, based on seeing about 300mV across all resistors. This draws my attention to a possible problem on the driver PCB piggyback. Unfortunately, my schematic is the wrong version.

If someone (Nelson?) has the right one for s/n 770811, I would appreciate a copy, Thank you!

Post your Analogue Source pics here

This is my bid to earn a 'sticky' thread. My first attempt at a Pre-amp. It's dual-mono throughout. The RIAA is all-BJT based off the famous NAD3020 circuit. There is an all-BJT shunt regulator based off Salas designs. And there is a cathode follower output buffer loaded on an active 'amplified resistor'. Haven't tested it yet, but this thread is for piccies 😀

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Fast GB from Profusion (EU only)

Hello,
This is a quick GB, I'm going to be ordering from Prufusion in early May, so if you'd like to join in, ...deadline is May 10.

If you want anything answered here in the thread I'll add it to the list in the first post. On May 10, I will be contacting interested parties through a private message.

1, HRDSTL
KTA1837 - 50pcs (1x tube)
KTC4793 - 50pcs (1x tube)
KTC3503 - 60pcs (1x tube)
KTA1381 - 60pcs (1x tube)

For Sale SEAS Excel Nextel set for Troels Next-4

2x W26FX002
2x W22NY001
2x W18NX001
2x T29CF002

These came from my Next-4 of which the cabinets and filters were sold. All units are used and in perfect condition.
Price: €1700,- + P&P + PayPal fee

All units come in their original boxes except for the W26FX002.
Prefer pick-up in The Netherlands (Leeuwarden) but shipping is also possible at cost.
Picture shows one of two complete sets, can make more pictures if you are serious interested.

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My custom tube preamp - Full build advice

I want to run my design's past the forum as this will be my first tube related build.

First the power supply.
The high voltage section:
tube-pwr-hv1.png


Low voltage section:
tube-pwr-lowv1.png


The full power supply PCB:
tube_pwr_pcb_front.png

tube_pwr_pcb_back.png

____________________________________

Now the preamp design:

tube_amp_1.png


First the input is buffed to maintain a constant high input impedance and remain unaffected by the feedback divider that can be changed via potentiometer RV2A.
Simulated THD is nice and low and no sign of obvious problems.

However, I am also considering another design that also looks quite good:
tube_lt_type2.png


Distortion is slightly higher, but now is almost entirely 2nd harmonic. High impedance can also be had (scale R9) and feedback amount can be changed via R14.

What do you think about this circuit? It seems like it might be worth a try. Do I need and additional protection for J1?
Maybe the first amp circuit if better?

Also what is the best way to switch the bootstrap capacitor in and out as this drastically changes distortion and would be nice to compare while listening.
Any feedback is much appreciated.
I can attach ASC files if anyone is interested.

A60(+) Amplifier. Build this?

Hello everyone.🙂

This is the first thread I have opened here with the aim to share my experiences with you and to broaden my knowledge about electronics from possible replies.

Over the 2020/2021 winter I have built an amplifier based on A60+ boards from eBay and was quite satisfied with the result: an amplifier sounds great, is relatively easy to build and involves everything what is needed to complete the project: power supply and effective speaker protection.

Below is a photo of one channel of the amplifier.

The amplifier comes in two different versions:
A60, smaller, with 3 output pairs of transistors
A60+, larger, with 8 pairs of output transistors.

There are variety of possible versions: with different output transistors
MJL3281A/MJL1302A
2SA1943/2SC5200

It is also possible to purchase bare boards, partially stuffed boards, complete boards and also amplifiers in chassis.

In addition to this the board incorporates a solid power supply and effective speaker protection. You only have to add your heat sinks large enough, transformers, transistors and capacitors.

I have decided initially for a A60+ version without output transistors and without power supply capacitors.

I also have tested A60+ and it sounds splendid indeed. Someone else on internet said its sound is "golden" and has gone that far to state that it has "euphoric tone". He is right it really sounds extraordinary. Just read this review.

I have also done extensive measurements: it measures great. It is done right across the whole audio spectrum and beyond. I will repeat the measurements and make them soon public.

The sound was great so I have decided to spend a bit more of time and money on this project.

I have purchased two A60+ and three smaller A60. This will be my spring 2021 project.

Finally, some hints for these who decide to build this amplifier:

Only capacitors with diameter 35mm and 10mm lead spacing will fit into this board. Initially I was afraid that just 4X10.000uF per channel wouldn't be enough, but it works indeed very well.

Carefully with biasing – this is a wild beast and can quickly go incredibly hot.

Chose heat sinks large enough to have freedom to set higher bias.
914525d1611440288-dartzeel-amp-schematic-build-a60-jpg

Towards a wideband non switching Auto Bias power amp

Syn08 (Ovidiu) said this about implementing an Auto Bias loop here:
" I haven't see a solid non switching full solution for the entire audio band, but only partial improvements over the standard solution of an acceleration cap (100nF, in your case), which is not a solution for non switching, but only a bandaid to limit the effect of the crossover mess.

Part of this lack of solutions is of course keeping the complexity within reasonable limits; Edmond's solution mentioned above, in despite of it's stability issues, is already a rather complex circuit, and I don't think anything simpler could be designed and successfully implemented."

Well, there's the challenge. A wideband non switching Auto Bias amplifier circuit that works, doesn't oscillate and blow up, and is not too complex.

To start this thread I'll post some of my findings from simulations of the LT1166 Auto Bias IC, as well as Class-i and Edmond's AutoBias2.

Feel free to post any of your ideas and simulations.

And if anyone has built a successful amplifier using an auto bias circuit then we'd love to hear how you did it, etc.

Cheers, Ian
-------------
Edit: Post summary (Edit: most recent first):
Post 303 Shows 3D views of a PCB for Post 302 circuit (now called Topology 4).
Post 302 The LT1223 again but now driving MOSFETs to demonstrate the autobias loop allows plug-in interchange of BJT's and MOSFETs. Interestingly, the MOSFET's achieve similar high BW with less drive current so 2 pair instead of 5 pair TO-92's can be used.
Post 301 The previous LT1223 CFB opamp with a CFP autobias loop is OK for 16MHz(tbc) without the CFP output stage, instead the discrete HV booster is paralleled for 50mA drive to the power transistors with a +/-9V auxiliary supply.
Post 300 The previous CFP BJT autobias loop is OK for 4MHz(tbc) with a LV LT1223 100MHz CFA with a discrete voltage booster giving low distortion.
Post 295 Bridge and current drive is easy with a HV opamp, where one load terminal is tied to input common (grounded bridge) with a floating PS.
Post 291 Current drive with a HV opamp is very easy using a resistor in series with the loads cold-side for feedback to the opamps inverting input node.
Post 287 CFP BJT autobias loop is OK for 100kHz with a 33 Ohm base pull-up to 9V. Allows a low input current (1mA) drive using a HV opamp (OPA455) with a split rail standard power supply.
Post 282 Only THT with current drive for 4 ohms suggested by Pawel.
Post 281 Current drive version for 200W into 4 ohm, Rout 500 ohms and 0.02% at 1W. Uses 2x OPA1656 LV 100mA opamp drivers.
Post 277 Class-G bridge 800W 4R using 4 slices per side for 20A peaks. Idle dissipation is reduced using Class-G plus McPherson's dissipation diverter.
Post 274 Bridge version for 400W 8R is DC input and DC output. Usescapacitance multiplier with McPherson's dissipation diverter.
Post 271 Mark Johnson query: What if the output capacitor divider capsare not exactly the same? Answer: the voltages equalise quickly due to the amps low output resistance.
Post 269 Power supply circuit to check startup with no dc blocking capacitor. Simulation shows no startup or shutdown transient to the loudspeaker.
Post 267 Input stage level shift with no dc blocking input capacitor.Uses an opamp with a -5V rail and a mirror input stage level shifterwith no signal.
Post 266 simulation using ZXT757 and ZXT857 300V complimentary pair for input stage level shift. Bias trimming calculation for output centering.
Post 257 simulation using a level shift input stage rather than a isolation transformer, allowing a standard non-floating power supply.
Post 256 mr_jj pointed out that Kenpeter back in 2010 had placed a resistor across the sensing diodes between the emitters of the power transistors to make it non-switching Class-AB! My hat is off to Kenpeter. I mention my independent finding in Post 202. The Dadson's circuit found in Post 44 here from his AES Oct 1980 article shows the same autobias sensing diode topology using a Rush spreader arrangement but with Darlington power transistors, but no resistor across the sensing diodes.
Post 254 Bench test using thean OPA1656 100mA opamp to drive power transistors with autobias without discrete driver transistors.
Post 244 Bench tests of a single channel amplifier shows -60dB THD using MUR1615 diodes and biased at 250mA. F-3dB is slightly over 100kHz.
Post 243 Shinichi Kamijo "simple TL bias" circuit is similar topology to my autobias but with a follower output stage and a non-floating power supply.
Post 235 Bridge version bench test. Two floating power supply amps on one supply, where one amp uses a small transformer to isolate the input signal.
Post 222 Tutorial on the floating power supply transconductance autobias output stage. More in Post 245 and Post 251.
Post 220 Using MUR1615 TO-220 power diodes instead of Schottky diodes gives excellent linearity. Bias can be trimmed by two resistors to 9V rail instead of two CCS's (simpler and less error prone).
Post 215 Using MJE3055 TO-220 as diodes instead of Schottky diodes.
Post 210 thru Post 214, Post 217-219. Option of using many (8-10) 1A silicon diodes in parallel per side instead of Schottky diodes so no need for a bias trim pot.
Post 205 FDC6321 CMOS stage allows high current drive without a CFP output stage.
Post 203 A prototype PCB allows stacking of up to slices (3 pair of output transistors).
Post 202 Using a HCU04 CMOS input stage with a CFP output transistors so only 1mA is needed to drive the autobias transistors. The CMOS input stage provides some gain and soft clipping and the option of thermal-SOA protection by dynamically limiting the clip level (more in Post 204). Introduced R13 across the power diodes to provides the keep-on current of 18mA in Q1 and Q2 - even when clipping. Eureka!!
-------------------------
Edit Feb 2025. Overview of development: Toward a Wideband Non-Switching Auto Bias amplifier
The challenge! “A wideband non switching auto bias amplifier circuitthat works, doesn't oscillate and blow up, and is not too complex”.Post1 aim 29 July 2021 by IanHegglun.
  • I have exceeded my expectations. A non-switching autobias topology – simple, stable, scaleable.
  • Two related topologies: 1) The floating supply version, and 2) The non-floating supply version.
  • Several diyAudio members have suggested that I provide a non-floating supply version.
  • Topology1. The floating supply version is the simplest, eg, Fig.1 below,100W into 8R, only 2 power transistors & 2 bias transistors, 2x3A diodes, a dual opamp, and a +/-9V 2W supply. Notice no Darlington driver transistors, instead two 100mA opamps operating in parallel. THD 0.1% 1W.
  • Autobias-MUR1615-MJL3281-OPA1656-1slice-1v2a-cct.png
    Topology 1: Completed Wideband Non-Switching Auto Bias amplifier with opamp driver.
  • Can be paralleled eg Post254 and bridged eg Posts274 .
  • Uses two output capacitors in series. They are forced to half the rail voltage by the feedback loop referenced to half the rail voltage by a voltage divider (R3,R19). They prevent DC damaging the loudspeaker. It's is simple, effective and reliable, with negligible effect on sound quality.
  • Topology2. The non-floating supply version. It is a modified floating supply version with an addition input stage where the input is now referenced to the negative rail. The input stage lowers distortion to 0.02% at 1W and a low output resistance of 50 milli-Ohm.
  • Autobias-MUR1615-MJL3281-OPA1656-1slice-shift-1v3e-cct.png
    Topology 2: Wideband Non-Switching Auto Bias amplifier with DC input and non-floating Power Supply.
  • An alternative bias circuit, see above Topology 2 dotted area, it eliminates the input capacitor which eliminates the long settling time at turn on.
  • The alternative bias circuit avoids a 3rd input stage which avoids a 3rd pole which requires careful frequency compensation. Both Topology 1 and Topology 2 do not use frequency compensation!
  • The loudspeaker is protected from DC damage by the two output capacitors in series.
  • Topology 2 can be paralleled eg Post257, and bridged eg Posts274 and Class-G bridge Post277.
  • Topology 2 has been simulated and a PCB is underway for bench test and listening tests.
  • Topology 1 has been bench tested eg Post244 & Post254 and a listening test Post157. The Topology 1 PCB needs updating for an opamp.

  • Topology 3. See Post287 and Post291.
  • CFP BJT autobias loop is OK for100kHz with a 33 Ohm base pull-up to 9V. Allows a low input current(1mA) HV opamp (LT6090-5 or OPA455) to be used with a split railstandard power supply.
  • Topology3.jpg
  • . . . . Topology 3. Wideband Non-Switching Auto Bias amplifier with DC input and non-floating Power Supply and no auxiliary ±9V supplies.

  • Topology 4. See Post301 and Post302
  • Using a LV LT1223 CFB opamp with a CFP autobias loop is OK for 16MHz(tbc) without the CFP output stage.The opamps discrete HV booster is paralleled for 50mA drive to the power transistors. The trade off is the ±9V auxiliary supply.
  • Topology4.jpg
  • Topology4. Wideband Non-Switching Auto Bias amplifier with DC input and non-floating power supply and no CFP power stage, instead the auxiliary ±9V supply and higher current opamp booster stage.

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There IS an affordable HDMI to AES/EBU Multichannel Audio Solution

For years, I’ve been looking for an affordable device that can extract multichannel audio from HDMI and output it digitally for further processing, specifically for DSP. Keeping everything in the digital domain ensures the best possible audio quality.

My goal was to create a high-quality multichannel audio system that was also affordable, modular, and user-friendly. However, this proved to be quite challenging. The closest I got to achieving that goal is the setup described below:

Flow Chart:
  1. Smart TV (Spotify and video source)
    ↓ (Audio via SPDIF)
  2. Raspberry Pi
    • Receives SPDIF output from the TV.
    • Applies DSP (Digital Signal Processing).
      ↓ (4 Audio Channels via USB)
  3. Okto DAC8(8 Channel DAC)
    • Receives 4-channel audio via USB from Raspberry Pi.
    • Converts digital audio to analog.
      ↓ (Analog Audio Out)
  4. 2 DIY Mono Block Amplifiers + 2 Active Subwoofers
    • Each amplifier receives one analog audio channel.
    • Amplifies audio for output to speakers.
Unfortunately, this setup resulted in stereo audio only, which didn’t meet my expectations. It could have been improved by using something like FFMPEG (thanks to @phofman for suggesting this) on the Raspberry Pi to process Dolby-encrypted audio over SPDIF for surround sound. However, I didn’t have the skills or the motivation to dive into that. Getting Camilla DSP working on the Pi and getting it to process the TOSLINK input was already a tough challenge. Once set up, though, Camilla DSP proved to be a great piece of software. The TOSLINK input had a specific quirk, requiring a special power-on sequence to work, which wasn’t very user-friendly for my household.

I considered the Vanity PRO, which seemed like the best affordable high-quality solution, but for my use case I couldn't justify the cost.

Then, I discovered a post from @yulen (on DIY Audio) promoting his 5AES to HDMI Black Box, which caught my attention, @mdsimon2 expressed an interest in the device as well. The product, a converter from HDMI to 5 AES, also includes optional DSP processing via Sigma Studio. It features 2x HDMI input and 1x HDMI outputs, with up to 4K @ 30Hz output. (Note: I have since edited this post to reflect the correct HDMI connections as I made a mistake in my original post)

While the product was intriguing, I had some concerns as it didn’t support Dolby decryption. However, the built-in DSP was a big plus for me. After several emails back and forth with Yulen (thanks for your patience!), I decided to try the product. Yulen assured me that it would work well with an Apple TV set to LPCM out, which was a perfect source for my needs—Spotify, Apple Music, Netflix, etc.

I made the purchase, it cost me $278 US or ~ £220GBP for the unit with the DSP module, this included tracked shipping to the UK, and within a week or so, the Black Box arrived—well-packaged and complete with the parts as discussed, along with the DSP board. I also ordered an Apple TV to pair with it.

To connect the Black Box to my DAC, I had to find a suitable DB25 to XLR cable. I then had to re-solder the connections to match the pinout of the Black Box (Yulen does sell premade cables if needed). This was my first time soldering a DB25 connector, so managing the soldering iron temperature and ensuring correct pinout was a bit tricky, but I got it done in a few hours.

Without the DSP board, the Black Box is plug-and-play and works flawlessly. It automatically adjusts audio output from stereo to multichannel depending on the content being played (e.g., Apple Music defaults to stereo, while movies play in 5.1). I’ve even seen it handle all 8 channels of audio. Since everything remains in the digital realm, there is no loss in sound quality.

I’m currently running a 3.2 audio system. Since I haven’t set up the DSP yet, I’m only getting stereo sound and 3.1 channels for movies. Once the DSP is configured, I plan to add room correction and blend some of the rear surround channels into the front speakers. I also hope to split the LFE channel between the two subwoofers and add crossovers to the stereo signal to make full use of both subs.

Here’s the current setup, outlined in the flow chart below:

Flow Chart:
  1. Apple TV (Spotify and video source)
    ↓ (Audio and Video via HDMI)
  2. Black Box
    • Receives LPCM HDMI output from Apple TV.
    • Applies DSP (not yet implemented).
      ↓ (4 Audio Channels via AES/EBU) + (HDMI video signal to TV)
  3. Okto DAC8(8 Channel DAC)
    • Receives 4-channel audio via AES/EBU from Black Box.
    • Converts digital audio to analog.
      ↓ (Analog Audio Out)
  4. 1 DIY Mono Block Amplifier + 1 DIY Stereo Amplifier + 2 Active Subwoofers
    • Each amplifier receives one analog audio channel.
    • Amplifies audio for output to speakers.
Images of it in my application:

IMG_0289.JPG


IMG_0291.JPG


IMG_0290.JPG


I ordered the required DB25 cable from here:
DB25 Cable

Additionally, I’ve ordered a generic UART USBi module and DB9 connector to communicate with the DSP board.

I support small manufacturers and appreciate the creativity and support from the DIY community, so I highly recommend checking out Yulen’s Black Box if you’re looking for a similar solution. Yulen also makes and sells other innovative products, which you can find on his blog (use a browser translator) and on his TikTok page, @SoundProAudio8.

He also has some upgrades for the black box in the pipeline, one is including HDMI ARC. Personally I would like to see 2x HDMI input with one being HDMI ARC, a boost in the frame rate at 4k to 60hz even though 30hz has proved fine so far and HDCP decryption. Overall I'm very happy with product though and even without any upgrades it's perfect, I'm looking forward to utilising the DSP in the near future. Note the unit already has 2x HDMI input and 1x HDMI output

Yulen is very patient and helpful but please be mindful of the language barrier.

Has anyone else used the Black Box and if so what's your application?
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OPA1656: High-Performance CMOS Audio Op Amp

Last week TI put a preliminary datasheet online for the OPA1656, a low noise, very low distortion op amp targeting audio applications and fabricated in a CMOS process.

http://www.ti.com/product/OPA1656

I just checked and the sample button for the prototype devices is now active:

http://www.ti.com/product/OPA1656/samplebuy

I started this project in 2017 with the designer of the OPA1622, and although I had a change in my role at TI before the device was released to market, I'm still very proud of what was accomplished. The goals of the project were fairly straightforward:

1. Start with the OPA1688 architecture which gives very good distortion performance, even with low-impedance loads. Beef up the output stage even more.

2. Push the input voltage noise down as much as possible. Ideally below the OPA1652 and OPA1678 levels, which are fabricated in the same process.

3. Don't let power supply current limitations get in the way of performance. OPA2134 and NE5532 both have power supply currents of about 4mA per channel, and have been widely adopted in the market (understatement). That seemed like a reasonable target for the supply current of the OPA1656 as well.

A quick snapshot of the OPA1656 performance specs:
  • 2.9nV/rtHz broadband voltage noise
  • 6 fa/rtHz broadband current noise
  • -131 dB THD+N at 1kHz, 600 ohm load, 3.5Vrms signal, 80-kHz measurement bandwidth
  • 53 MHz gain bandwidth product, 24V/us slew rate
  • >100mA output current
  • 4.0mA typical supply current, 4.5mA max

I'm looking forward to seeing what people think of the device, and hopefully it finds its way into a few projects on here!

Christmas comes a bit early this year! The single channel version of the OPA1656, called the OPA1655, released yesterday and the product page is now live on ti.com: https://www.ti.com/product/OPA1655

It doesn't look like units have been stocked yet for ordering, but they should be in-stock soon.
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