Curve Tracer or Audio Analyser?

I'm now a full-time instrument maker, and thinking about how I allocate resources in 2020. I've been into DIY hifi since a teenager and want to resurrect two pet projects (1. Curve Tracer and 2. Audio Analyser) for my little company (Electron Plus) - thinking about which might have the most impact. Would love to hear feedback, what people are using and perhaps what's on their wishlist. The very basic specs as I left them before I got busy with sub-contract work:

Curve Tracer
PC connected
-200 to +200V collector supply
-20 to +20V / -200mA to +200mA step generator
<1uA to >5A
Dual channel option/version
2nd step generator/SMU option/version.

Audio Analyser
2channels
Fully floating input and fully floating output sections
>+20dBV outputs
Balanced ins and outs
48/96/192 and possibly 768KHz rates

I built working prototypes of both a few years back - but would probably refresh both designs (certainly restart the digital side of things). Probably got enough resource to do one of these projects only.

iLoud MTM Tweeter Repair - It was going well until THIS HAPPENED!

Anybody know where to get a replacement tweeter for the iLoud MTM?

I bought this speaker used but it was working well. I measured the frequency response as below:

1709224937421.png


After some general use I measured it again and now it measures with some big dips in the response. I did not play it loud.

(Below 100Hz not very accurate, but the dips in the midrange response are confirmed to be from the speaker.)

1709225024614.png


I disconnected each driver and measured them separately. I also measured the Amp outputs directly to see if maybe the filters were messed up. I guess this is correct.

1709225119285.png


So I decided the tweeter was damaged. I thought maybe it used ferrofluid and needed a refresh.

I removed the glue around the tweeter and took it out.
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Ahh.. looks like the front can not come off without a careful operation.

Bingo, we have ferroffluid!

20240229_162303.jpg


Eww... it's somehow been mopped up by the sponge. What is ferrofluid doing out of the gap?!


20240229_162610.jpg


But OH NO! I was trying to be so gentle but this happended.

20240229_163638.jpg

Powersoft LITEMOD 4HC .... pic of underside of PCB??

Intrigued by the LITEMOD 4HC design.
4 x 700 W @ 4 ohm
Appears to use only 2 x IRFH5020 mosfets per channel, PQFN 5X6 mm packs!
These are very capable devices: 200V, 43A, 55mOhm, but probably the most interesting feature is the body diode reverse recovery speed of trr = 45 nS!!

I would guess that there is a thick aluminium plate underneath the pcb (just under the fets) linking this to the back plate for thermal transfer, using vias in the PQFN 5X6 decal to link upper side with lower side.

Don't seem to use either snubber, flyback or series diodes. The lack of the diodes is of course because of the very high speed of the body diode.

Thinking of using IRFH5020 for my next project ;)


Does anyone have a picture of the underside of the board??


A service manual or schematic would of course also do ;)

/Baldin

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Cdom (C-dom) - Alternatives to the usual use in Voltage Amplifier Stages (VAS) of Power Amps with two Voltage Gain Stages (LTP+VAS)

In post #4 under
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/compensation-capacitor-cdom.105453/
I read this:
The Cdom is the easy and very effective solution that virtually guarantees stable operation of a three stage "LIN" topology.
But the downside is reputedly poor sound quality.
Try the non-inverting input for improved sound quality.
And use a very low capacitance transistor for VAS to reduce the current that gets sucked out of the LTP.


D. Self does not mentioned various alternatives - only the usual circuit topology for Cdom from collector to base of VAS transistor is described.

The only way I know to avoid Cdom at whole is the use of only one voltage gain stage - this means mostly a folded cascode (like realized in the AVM mono blocks and in the internal circuit of AD817 and AD797.
But this means in discrete versions less open loop gain.

Some other approaches in power amps with two gain stages (i. e. LTP+VAS) is the attempt, to use the inverted input for Cdom (often with serial resistor) - check out the schematics in attachment three and four.

But I want to know exakt design rules for compensation steps at whole (without typical Cdom to avoid unwanted oscillation).
Thanks for any advice.

P.S.:
This desire arose after I receive a Horch 3.0s power amplifier that have unwanted oscillation - check out schematic with two voltage gain stages in the first attachment.
Here are to find some capacitors for compensation - partly at unusual places.
But at the usual place for Cdom in the VAS stage there are no capacitor to find (also not at the input for low pass function).

Most other amplifiers with similar topologies use there capacitors - go to the second attachment for an example (schematic of Leach amp).
Maybe an important fact to determine this exactly is the kind of output stage configuration (darlington emitter follower or CFP power output stage - go to the attachment five and six) so as the sequence of the serial inductor and the Boucherot cell (Zobel network) at the speaker output - go to the last attachment (Zobel network sometimes behind the inductor, sometimes in front of the inductor - i. e. just on the power amp output, which seems more plausible to me - go to
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...an-inductor-on-my-class-ab-amp-output.346796/
and read from post #7)

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Constant curvature tweeter array

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I have been thinking about a replacement for the high frequency section of our horn sound system. Currently we use 3 *40 degree 8+1” coaxial horns horizontally arrayed >400Hz (the top horn of this orbit top).

1658233162698.png


We already don’t use the lower folded horn instead using 15” midbass horns 100-400Hz: https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/mega-midbass-straight-horn-139db.349105/

Then above this I have been designing a horn for M200 midrange compression drivers ( https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...per-scripts-and-m200-fun.385493/#post-7003214 ). My plans have moved forward a little since this thread and I now plan on making this a dual driver horn covering up to 3kHz. I would like to mount a vertically arrayed tweeter array coaxial to this horn (at the mouth). This would be something like the Void Incubus which appears to use a constant curvature array composed of line array waveguides:

1658233192266.png


My aim would be 90 degree horizontal dispersion and 4-6 elements vertical so 10-15 degree vertical . However when I look at the data for a line array waveguide like the B&C ME102 I see that the horizontal is very wide and the vertical is not displaying constant directivity behavior (although is B&C quoting -12dB contour rather than -6dB?):

1658233231404.png


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Tube output kit for TDA1541

I am selling tube output kits for TDA1541(A)

The kit includes:

- pair NOS tubes military grade
- PCB with very good quality components
- new custom made toroidal power transformer

Price for one complete kit is 135 Euro+15 Euro shipping to EU. I am sending to EU only.

For more details, please send me PM.

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Expression of Aging Effects in different kind of Ceramic Capacitors for Compensation/HF Suppression in Vintage Audio SS Amplifiers

Ceramic capacitors are used in amplifiers for different applications
  • a bypass for electrolytic capacitors on voltage regulators
  • for low-pass filtering at the input and
  • for compensation to avoid unwanted oscillations (e. g. Cdom in the Vas stage, output load of VAS stage and bypass cap in parallel to the NFB resistor between output and input).

Aging does not have a destructive effect on the first both applications, but it may have a significant effect on the last application, because the resulting unwanted oscillation can destroy the transistors of the output buffer stage of a power amp.
This is because during this oscillation - as with an interrupt between the base of the Vbe multiplier transistor and pot for idle current - the maximum possible current that the mains transformer is capable of delivering flows through the power transistors of power output buffer.
This means that the power transistors will be destroyed instantly unless fast fuses provide protection.

There are to find a wide range of different versions for the ceramic caps at this place and from the first impression it is not possible to assume which dielectric material is used in the capacitor in question - thus there is no way to assess the effects resp regarding drift of critical parameters due aging after 10, 20, 30 and 40 years.

My first thought was to generally use for replace MICA caps for this application (known to have negligible effects from aging)
but in post #10 under
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/is-this-vishay-mlcc-good-for-compensation-cap.300559/
I read, that MLCC is to prefer against MICA according this paper from TI:
https://www.ti.com/lit/an/slyt796a/slyt796a.pdf
similar in post #6 under
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/is-this-vishay-mlcc-good-for-compensation-cap.300559/

examples for MLCC and NP0
https://www.vishay.com/docs/45171/kseries.pdf
https://www.kyocera-avx.com/products/ceramic-capacitors/surface-mount/c0g-np0-dielectric/
and Mica (in German language "Glimmer")
https://www.cde.com/resources/catalogs/STD-DIPPED.pdf

What kind of caps should one prefer in general for the aim of compensation in vintage power amplifiers in order to maintaining good RF behavior and also in order to maintaining good long-term stability - that is the main question for me in the moment.

Perhaps there are certain empirical values regarding this question - thank you very much for an information.

Currently I ask this in order to replace various ceramic caps of unknown kind in a power amp from Horch Elektroakustik model "3.0s" which provide unwanted oscillations around 2-3MHz on both channels - schematic and various images from PCB of this model under
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...d-3-0s-what-to-3-power-output-devices.379808/
and I have heard from an other owner, that several years ago the manufacturer itself in such cases always replace all the ceramic capacitors.

This URL's don't provide the wanted information.
https://www.allaboutcircuits.com/te....-a-concise-guide-to-ceramic-capacitor-types/
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/mlcc-vs-silver-mica.263994/
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/ceramic-capacitors-in-audio-signal-paths.317685/
https://modwiggler.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=156157

For Sale F5T - Nagard Acoustique - Set of Boards (partly equipped), transformers and needed components

Hi everyone,
since my music listening room has now given way to a children's room, I will be parting with some of my projects, which are either already assembled or not fully assembled.
Accordingly, I will describe what each offer includes.

I offer:
  • 1 set of boards F5 (partly equipped) - since the dual “F5 mono bridged” design was planned, the additional boards are not equipped.
    the set includes 2x Main Board and 2x Additional Boards
    the 2 main boards are equipped with high-quality components (PRP resistors, ELNA Simic II, ...)
    the additional boards unequipped (absolutely new, not yet used)

  • Power supply not yet set up, hand wiring was planned (without circuit board)
    high-quality components available (Nichicon KG Super Through 10000uF / 63V + brackets, Vishay MKP1837 0.01uF 100V 1% 5mm, ClarityCap PX Series 250VDC Film Capacitor, Vishay Bridge Rectifiers 35 Amp 600 Volt, ....)

  • 2 transformers Müller Rondo R3-0650-0006 - unused
    (with shield winding Cu foil, magnetic shield in the housing; d=154mm, h=100mm)

  • Detailed list of the components used can be sent as a PDF

  • 1 document - component overview, assembly instructions and notes
negotiable Price: 666€ (+ shipping)
Location: 1070 Vienna, Austria
Payment: cash payment or Paypal as a friend.
The boards and components can be sent or picked up personally from me.

Please ask if there are any questions left!
additional pictures can be sent upon request.

If interested please send me a PM.

regards,
Michael

As with all private sales. The right to guarantee or warranty is hereby excluded. No returns or exchanges possible.

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Here is the detailed component list for the main boards:
Number of components is to be understood per main board.
The power MOSFETs (each matched octet available) are not yet soldered in.

Bildschirmfoto 3.jpg


and the component list for the power supply(s):
Bildschirmfoto 1.jpg


the following structure was originally intended for the two power supplies:
F5-PS-Schaltplan.jpg

TPA6102 and 600 Ohm headphones, is 2x9V batteries enough?

Greetings, first post here and mostly noob in analog electronics, so please be gentle..
So I found in an thrift store Philips N6330 (sibling of AKG K240), which are 600 Ohm headphones and need something to drive them and there's not as many options as I expected. Not ready to invest more than pocket change yet so found this TPA6120 board on aliexpress for ~7EUR which looks like it should do the trick for now, but I don't have a suitable +- 12V transformer readily available. I suspect this board has something like pair of LM7809s on it as it wants +-12V AC, but don't have any means to verify it.

So the question is, if I bypass rectifiers and connect two 9V batteries, would that be enough to drive 600 Ohm headphones, at least to see if I like their sound and buy something better?

The other option is get +12V and -12V DC from old ATX power supply, would that be a better choice?

NEW-TPA6120-Headphone-Amplifier-Board-HIFI-TPA6120A2-Audiophile-Headphone-Amplifier-Board-Zero...jpg

QUAD 22 blowing a Raspberry! Need help and please traditionalists, avert your eyes!

Hello all, have been lurking for a while and would love some help. Looking to turn a Quad 22 box into fully digital Roon endpoint and phono input!

Backstory
Currently in the process of rebuilding a couple of Quad Monoblock's and going back to basics as the units had failed when a previous owner 'upgraded' to EL34s. The Quad 22 was also in a very sorry state and instead of going analogue, want to turn this into Quad on the Outside, Raspberry HiFi running Roon on the inside.

Project Scope
My ecosystem is Roon and Tidal, and love the work @iancanada has done, where it looks like the STATIONPI PRO Raspberry Pi and HAT Boards Adapter Station will fit perfectly into the Quad 22 box. Want to try and keep the front panel as close to the original layout and am thinking:
  • Original Volume Control and Balance: Install Digital Volume Control and forget aboyt the balance.
  • Stereo/Mono Switches: Turn these into unit On/OFF. Yes have an aluminum CnC guys and engraver lined up.
  • Inputs Selectors: Use Position 1 and 2 on the input selector for DAC and Phone Input, which leaves me 2 spare.
  • Tone Controls: Remove and replace with round digital display for DAC info.
Help Needed
Would greatly appreciate thoughts or recommendations on how to best:
  1. Phono: Get a quality phono input into the system and switching to the outputs to feed the Quad Monos?
  2. Digital Volume: Recommended DAC that support 24/192 and can to the volume thing!
  3. Displays: Any alternate ideas for the 4 round tone control cut outs, anyway of getting 4 displays running off a single Ropieee xl (I suspect not)
  4. PSU: Picking that the Ultra Capacitor Conditioner Board for Raspberry Pi will do the job, but open to suggestions.
Thanks in advance and looking forward to getting tucked into this...

Malcolm

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Ray Media RMC RL- s881. For McIntosh mcd201 cd player not working i want help about to find this

Hi, i have McIntosh mcd-201 cd player, my issue is i can't find his mechanism i have new laser lens. But can't find hole mechanism even not find in Google and nothing in replacement for Raymedia RMC RL-s881, please help about replacement or same mechanism finding...
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Kenwood DP-SG7 - No Power

Hello all - I have a Kenwood DP-SG7 CD Player which won't power on.

I've opened it up and first port of call is a board with a transformer. I have 240v going in and on the ribbon cable that connect to the main board I am getting a reading of 13-14v. According to the service manual, if I am reading it correctly it should be more like 10v - see pin 1 below.


Screenshot 2024-01-17 234640.png


Is this in itself an issue?

I have also had a poke around the main board with a multimeter and I have found a FET which is giving an open circuit (beeping) when I test across Gate and Source in diode mode. The FET is still on the board though, does this indicate damage?

Also I have broken the ribbon cable connector that provides power to the main board - anyone know what type of connector this is:

IMG_20240117_234113.jpg


This is where is plugs:

IMG_20240117_234132.jpg


This is the service manual:

https://www.recambiosyaccesoriosonline.es/despieces/kenwood/dpsg7/Kenwood_DPSG7_Despiece.pdf

Thanks in advance for any feedback.

Can I simply connect a PC (laptop) to a 2channel power amp?

Forgive me if this is a painfully rudimentary question. ELI5?

I keep my my system ultra simple. Small dedicated laptop. Win 11. Foobar installed. USB connected to DAC. DAC connected with RCA to vintage integrated amp. Ext harddrive backup.

I'm shopping for a used amp. Wondering if I can broaden my choices by simply using a PC plugin (software) pre-amp and bypassing the need for a hardware pre amp.

I can only find information on this online in discussions about music production. I find little information about consumer setup. But I'm sure it's just a matter of not knowing how to frame the question

Thx

Jericho cabinet with Lowther DX4 help

I recently built a pair of Jericho horns using the attached drg. and fitted new DX4 drivers, the mids and highs are good, but the bass is very much lacking.

I built the same speakers 15 years ago with EX4 drivers and dont remember any issue with lack of bass.

I know very little about theoretical speaker design and based my choice on past experience, and have a few questions:

1. have i made a complete mis-match
2. if so can i improve the bass at all with eq filter or other means
3. what is a tried and tested combination for the DX4


Any other comments welcome.

thanks


JERICHO Horn Speaker.gif

GB - ACA Power Supply Filter Kits

This is a group buy for Amp Camp Amp (ACA) CLC Power Filter PCBs + Parts Kits.

The idea is inspired by the recent Sony VFET P-Channel amp power supply filter. The concept is a low pass filter designed to filter out any hi frequency hash/trash from the SMPS power supply.

This board is designed to be an easy retrofit/drop-in to the chassis. The mounting holes align with existing slots in the bottom of the chassis. Wiring is also simple. Add a wire from the ground "bus" wire at the back of the amp to the filter board. The red wires from the amp boards get cut. Amp board wires connect the "V+ to Amp" connections. 2 short wires from the switch connect to the "V+ from Switch".

Option A - Stereo Amp Kit - 1x PCB, 2x Inductors, 2x 1000u Caps, 1x 0.33uCap, 8x screws, 4x standoffs
Option B - Monoblock Amp Kit [Kit for 2 ACA Chassis] - 2x PCBs, 4x Inductors, 4x 1000u Caps, 2x 0.33uCap, 16x screws, 8x standoffs
Option C - 1 Board only - good for one stereo amp - you supply parts
Option D - 2 Boards only - good for 2 monoblocks - you supply parts

Group Buy Pricing for kits will be based on the volume of the buy. It's looking like:
5 Option B's (10 total boards including all parts) = $42+shipping per kit
6-24 Option B's = $36+shipping per kit
25+ Option B's = $32+shipping per kit
Divide price by 2 for Option A kits.

Shipping will be appx $4 or 5 in USA. More elsewhere.
Option C = $4 + shipping
Option D = $8 + shipping

Group Buy #1 will close September 17, 2021.
Please make a running list by entering your DIYAudio username and which option(s) you would like. I'll total things up after Sept 17th and order parts.

December 2021 Updates
There was only 1 group buy. You can now get boards fabbed if you like. Gerber files are posted in posts #136 and #137.
Typo on the schematic. ACA uses a 24V PSU. No need for 50V caps. Go for 1,000uF 35V. I used the same series of caps that were called out in the store's P089ZB kit. Nichicon UHW or Kemet ESH series.

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need some help finding parts for Arcam Delta 290 mosFET change

so i was thinking of buying an old broken delta for spares for mine but then thought what if i could fix it myself but I'm having a hard time finding some some capacitors
1709278466052.png

this is what is needed i can find the resistors already of the mosfets and ill get some heatshrink for the legs but i cant find any film polystyrene caps rated for 22pf or 10pf, Digi key only goes down to 33pf, i can find 22pf on RS components but then when i look at the datasheet they go down to 25pf and i also don't trust buying from RS components.

thanks for any help

they also look like this
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NAD 2600 Voltage measurement

Hi all,

I was reading a lot in this forum as my NAD 2600 has some issues and lot of good information here!
From one day to the other my NAD 2600 was stuck in protection, after reading in this forum, I started testing and found that one channel has a problem (I have checked the protection relays and they are working, nevertheless I ordered the upgraded relays). I found that left channel out I measure 94,5V on the other channel I have 0V. So I already unsoldered and identified transistor Q301 to be broken, also the resistor R339 was getting extremly hot… but there are probably mor parts broken. So is there another way than unsoldering all transistors to be able to check them?

After I disconnected the left channel power amp board, the amp seems to work with the right channel and the protection relays are switching after few seconds.

But what confuses me after testing all the voltage measurements from the service manual:

out should be ~0V but has 94,5V
the +- 95V rail is good and measurement +-94,5V
where it says 1,77V I can measure also 94,5V
I checked the 35V and 18V and they are good
—> so all the wrong Voltage on left channel probably due to some broken parts.

BUT: The +-72V rails from the service manual confuses me cause mine has +-57,6V! On both channels, but right channel is working with that voltage. So first I thought this is correct and maybe I habe a wrong service manual or different version. And I can measure the 57,6V already on the outs of the rectifier…

So is this incorrect or correct? is there another version which is not described in service manual? Is the rectifier or transformer broken or something else?

Would be glad if anybody could help with the voltage and maybe have a clue which other parts can be broken on the left channel.

Thanks a lot

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Emotiva XPA-2 gen1 schematic needed

Hi Guys,
Scored an Emotiva XPA-2 gen 1 power amp today for not much $
Issue is that it tries to turn on but goes straight into protection mode. So like any curious DIYer, off with the lid !
Jeebuz :oops: what a beast !! This thing weighs in at 35kg, has a 1200VA toroid and 12 x 15000/50V electro in the main pwr supply.
Rated at 300wpc these appear to be quite well regarded.
Anyways, I've pulled the DC power supply board but can't find anything that stands out as failed.

This thing has a soft start board that can auto select 120v or 240v and is also tied in with the protection circuit to open the mains relays if a fault is detected.
It is powered by its own 10va transformer.

Anyways, looks like it tries to power on, lights come on and relays click, then after 2 seconds, it shuts down.
This one is going to be tricky !
I've emailed Emotiva service but they have decided not to respond.
Does anyone have schematics for it they can send my way ??

Tokin THF51 - higher voltages?

I have a good sized heatsink and it is cooled by a fan - at this point using 38 volts with ra7's TDV. Biased at 2.6 A the heatsinks never get hot, not even close to hot. Nowhere near as hot as the SIT 1s would get which was HOT.

Would higher voltages allow the use of sightly less current - my scheme is to use closer to 55 volts? Even higher if possible. My capacitors are rated 100 volts and higher. I know the current would be greatly reduced just trying to figure out where to begin ... if at all.

Would the output power go up appreciably or would it be negligible?

Wish I could answer this for myself but I have no idea.

Yamaha NS-SW050

It is my first subwoof. Pretty basic, no dsp on the back panel so this must be done upstream of it. My Emotiva PT2 has a sub out with a variable low pass and it seems to work well. It also has a variable high pass on the pre out. I thought it might be hard to get it integrated with my speakers but so far, so good. It does stand up bass and cello nicely which is low enough for me.
20240301_072443.jpg

VIFA M18SJZ4-04 data sheet, anyone?

Greeting speaker lovers!

I am need of help from the community. I am looking for the original T/H parameters for a VIFA M18SJZ4-04. It came out of a Sony SS-X70ED. Both are drivers are toast in each cabinet. I can normall come up with my own T/H but given they are damage, this is not possible. I have looked everywhere for the data sheet but it eludes me.

Any assistance is welcomed!

VIFA M18SJZ4-04.jpg

40-70khz motor driven speaker project

Hey forum,

I’m looking to design a speaker specifically for sound healing frequencies.

Since the audio will not be heard, the volume won’t need to change, the only thing that needs to change is the frequency.

With the same excursion the driver could be driven by an electric motor that varies only in speed.

I’m looking for a designer to design this in CAD, I understand that this would require specialised knowledge and isn’t something normal. I will compensate you well if you have the skill set to do this!

If anyone knows any companies I should reach out to, knows any people that build drivers or have any ideas for the project please let me know!

Peace, love and light
Jeremy

Home subwoofer - bandpass front, open back, 18" woofer.

I have a pair of relatively cheap 18" woofers. I have used one in a MEH as the bass part for quite a while with open back and I liked it. The new round MEH will not play as low, but I thought I might use these in a sort of bandpass sub, but with open back - like on the large MEH. The Hornresp record is attached. It needs some eq, but compared to a simple H baffle or a bass reflex box of the same dimensions, I get more efficiency and acoustic bandpass filtering as a bonus. It comes with the cost of boosting the low end need and needing more amplifier power and not much output below some 35 Hz. Amplifier is not a problem and it did not play lower in the MEH anyway, so this seems like a good compromise.

The plan is to have a simple 60 x 60 x 66 cm (OD) box serving as a stand for the round MEH. Would any other enclosure style in this volume have some advantages?

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why is there an inductor on my class ab amp output?

I have been looking at a few amplifier schematics recently and noticed two things that seem very common on class AB amps. one is a series inductor on the output, typically 1 or 1.2 uh, sometimes in parallel with a 200 ohm resistor, sometimes not.....and the second is an rc circuit to ground, ,not usual to see like .047 uf cap in series with a 10 ohm resistor to ground?

what are the purpose of these?

Some schematic of 300b SET with anode loaded CCS?

Hello there,
So, trying to further develop my Mickey Mouse amp.

Next step would be this, putting a CCS load on the output tubes.

Topology is very simple, 2 amplification stages through a 6sn7 (china amp) and a cathode biased 300b (450V, 70V at cathode, 220uf and 1k at the cathode).

Looked the whole internet for a schematic, went through Bartoli and other websites (he uses curators mainly for driver stage) but couldn't find anything ready?

Would someone be so kind?

Ps. The schematic is the plain vanilla one, many things have been changed/optimized, but the output stage.

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Is over-engineering always better?

I’m thinking of creating over-engineered loudspeakers. They might be something such as the 3.5 ways floor-standing with 4 active drivers and 2 passive drivers, i.e.,

  • A 1” tweeter at the top of the front baffle
  • A 2” dome midrange below the tweeter
  • Two 10” woofers below the mid-dome in which the upper woofer is responsible for lower midrange and bass, and the lower woofer is for only bass
  • Two 10” passive radiators for deep bass at the bottom and on both sides of the cabinet, e.g., Acoustic Research AR-9/ AR-90 series.

If compared with a conventional 3-way system, will it be better than the 3-way? Assume all the crossover design is performed with the same techniques, by the same designer.

It’s just like comparing a multi-link suspension with a semi-trailing arm suspension.

Is it worth it?

For Sale 300B SET AMP

I am selling my entire collection due to extreme hearing loss unfortunately. THD+N (Nick) on AK built me this 300b amp with attention to quality parts and professional build quality. I don't think you will disagree by looking at the pictures. Most of all this amp sound amazing!!! Built with Edcor iron and includes a pair of Shuguang 300B-98. NOS Sylvania 6SL7 GT tubes with 5U4G rectifier.
1850.00 OBO
Will ship at owner's expense.
Pay Pal F&F
Local pick up is always welcome in Clarksville TN
Thanks
Rich

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Replacing power supply capacitors on Adcom GFA-5500

Hello to everyone!
This is my first post here on this forum, and I hope there are going to be many more.

So right to the point:
I have an Adcom GFA-5500 power amp. One of the best I ever had. Sadly, it now looks like one of the main power capacitors have started leaking. So I'm looking for replacements.
I have found some high grade Mundorf ECaps with the same dimensions and the same terminal spacing, rated 22000uF, 100V. The originals are 18000uF.
Is it a bad idea to replace the originals with ones with higher rating? Or is it just good to have more reserves in the power supply. Will it stress other components?

Thanks in advance

Replacing blown Mission mid/bass drivers

Hi

I have a pair of Mission M33i floorstanders here that need replacement mid/bass drivers (amp malfunctioned and died).

The speakers didn't cost me anything and I don't want to spend much on a solution. The usage will be playing loud rock music and EDM in my workshop whilst me and the wife workout in our gym.

I can find the right size (hole spacing & cutout) easily enough.

My question is, the frequency response. The original drivers are 48Hz to 20,000Hz.

The replacements are likely to be ~35Hz to 8,000Hz.

My understanding (from a mate who may or may not know) is that for my intended use, I don't need frequency response much above 8,000Hz, recognising this is not an audiophile kind of setup at all. It just needs to be clear and loud. Overtones, harmonics, headroom etc, not so important (I think).

The specs of the originals can be found here: Mission M33i

The likely replacement can be found here: Possible replacement

I know nothing at all about crossovers and so on... just considering taking a punt.

Any advice gratefully received.

Thanks.

SFPP Soft Start with Remote Power On Circuit

This is the Soft as a Feather Pillow Plus (SFPP) circuit that combines the solid state relay SFP soft start with a solid state relay low voltage switch remote on/off capability. There is also provision for remote shutdown logic via closing a contact that’s useful for thermal switches, etc. The SFPP has about a 2 second long soft start period where the in rush current is reduced by going through two NTC resistors in series. After 2 seconds, the NTC’s are bypassed allowing full current to go to the power transformer.

The circuit can handle up to two loads useful for dual trafo monoblocks in the same chassis.

1708890248662.png


Example of usage in single chassis dual monoblock amp:
1708890293011.png


Schematic:
1708890221078.png


Here is a video demonstrating the operation.
Login to view embedded media
The board has some tricky SMT parts with small pin spacing to solder. I am getting a new version with simpler easy to solder SOIC8 parts in the future but still have not tested that board out yet.
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Nine-sided conical horn MEH

Yesterday I was thinking about how to fit larger horn parts to my CNC and then I realized that if I use more sides than just 4, I can get a larger horn with the same axial length parts. I originally thought about 6 sides, but 9 seems to look really cool. It is now just a design study - 1" or 1.4" driver, 3 x 3 - 4" mids and 3 x 8 - 12" for lows. All will stay open backed (due to weight and ease of buiding) and maybe there will be even an ambience tweeter in the back. The diameter will be around 100 cm, depth around 60 cm with a coverage angle of 75 degrees (or somewhere between 60 - 90 degrees), I could not fit a larger one in any of my rooms anyway. Even this one will be hard to move through the doors.

I would like to do it "right", following all the MEH rules and do lots of simulations. At my normal indoor listening levels, these will be able to play down to 30 Hz (with EQ) even with open backs, there is plenty of subwoofers around the house that could be used if needed:) I see these in stained birch plywood (12 - 15 mm), prototype will be built from 16 mm chipboard.

Should I really need a box, I could build one with 8 sides and fit a rectangular box around it with 4 (triangular) ports in the corners.

1704403416786.png

1704403476971.png


This design is constantly evolving. If anyone is interested in the 3D models and OpenSCAD scripts, send me a PM.
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Apex AA14 Amp Class A 24V Supply

Hi
Next Project an the way ;)


APEX AA14 - Class A amp...Prasi did excellent documentation. !! THX!
Gerber file : post #3

I want to try this amp but as i realized that nobody built this i want to ask in a separate Thread, because in the 100W Ultimate Fidelity Amplfier thread it is too mixed.

my build:
pcb in HASL standard quality - blue
because of try out some BJt transistor(BC557, KCS1845, ...etc....) and BD140...(3503/1381.....TTA...) i used pin header female - looks strange but...
As C1 i used a Nichicon Muse BP 10µF, As C4 i use a FKP2 Wima (FKP2G001001D00JSSD)

Don´t forget to wire an extra cable from GND signal input to the Power GND- its written on the top right corner on the bare PCB.

my question regarding caps.
because of avoiding some bad influence because of wrong caps - maybe too big capacitance i kindly ask:

C6, C9 are nichicon UKZ 100µF/25V UKZ
C3, C7, C12, C13, are 180µF/50V 105C Panasonic EEU-FR1H181L

Q1, Q2 :For the output transistor i plan 2cs5200 and SA1943
T14/T15 Driver MJE15028G NPN, MJE15029G PNP

help and comments are welcome .

thanks
chris

8.11.2023 edit: C4, - C6,C9 andC3,C7, C12, C13 updated

10.11.2023 edit: Driver T14/T15 correction, gerber file post#3

1.2.2024: edit: Amp is working with remove of D1
remove D1
change the value of R8 from 1k5 to 2k (2k2) - lower the gain to about 21dB
use a Thiele Network at the output (0,5µH //3R3 is working - Thiele Network

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Looking for drivers with max dispersion

I have a strange setup I'm looking to update. I do the bulk of my music listening in my kitchen and the only place to put speakers to get decent soundstage around the whole room is on the ceiling. So I stumbled on DML speakers and made some 2x2' panels from styrofoam. With some heavy DSP and a sub they sound great honestly.

However I am just kind of bored and looking for a change so I want to keep the same ceiling hung config but build new speakers that address the shortcomings of the DML panels. The shortcomings are basically general inefficiency, high LF rolloff (about 200-250Hz from what I remember) and the heavy handed DSP to flatten the response. The great thing about them is the imaging- there is basically no beaming, at least to my ears, which is great considering how much I move around the kitchen.

So I am looking to make new 2x2' panel speakers with conventional drivers that have minimal beaming/max dispersion all the way up the frequency range. My gut says to just pair an in ceiling speaker with a high QTS 10-12" driver and call it a day. But I'm also open to running a WMT 3 way setup as well. Imaging doesn't have to be perfect.... I just don't want any high frequency hot spots in the room. What do you recommend?

3D Printed A5.3 Desktop Speakers

A little project I've been working on the past few months. I wanted some "ultimate" desktop speakers and with my limited workspace thought 3D printing would be a way to go about it. Still a WIP, but some first impressions...

The drivers are Markaudio Alpair 5.3. I used WinISD to create an EBS3 alignment which turned out to be 4.4 liters tuned to 58Hz. The cabinet design calls for a bit of EQ at the bottom end: 2.8dB at 74Hz with a Q of 0.707

in_situ.jpg


Above is the "final" design. There are some aesthetic points and a few printing issues that I'm not 100% on board with, but overall I'm pleased with the way they turned out. Waiting for paint...

The design shown is a two piece (top and base) hollow printed design. Meaning I designed each part as a solid piece and the printing service I used removed extra material in order to have a hollow closed shell as opposed to the prototype which I designed as open shells to be printed solid and closed with covers (see attached). It saved a bit of money and hassle giving the solid design to the printing service and letting them adjust as needed. I intend to fill the hollows with epoxy resin at some point but it feels like a little bit of overkill for now. They are lined with eggcrate foam, connectors put in place, wired, and then the top is press fit onto the base.

Listening impressions:

Wow! For the first few hundred hours on the drivers I had them sitting on my piano bench in the prototype boxes to break in. One day I put on Harry Connick Jr's eponymous album and went about my business in another room. I kept catching myself thinking someone was playing my piano, haha!

Now that I've had these properly set up and gotten some good listening sessions in, I have to say that these are really exceptional for near field listening. The imaging and sound stage are crystal clear. I can close my eyes and see each cymbal strike, make out the exact separation between instruments in an orchestra, on some tracks from The Beta Band 3EPs for example I realized that notes can have different shapes. Bass is clean, clear, and precise and is more than competent to all but the lowest EDM notes. I've become addicted to playing Billie Eilish's "Billie Bossa Nova" and James Blake's "Limit To Your Love" as the bass presence is just amazing.

The only issue I have with them is that they only really come alive at a louder listening volume than I'd like. These are intended to be desktop speakers for somewhat background listening. They do sound very good at those listening levels, but get better as they get some more power.

When I get a quiet moment I'll do some measurements. I especially want to see before and after of the result of filling the hollows.

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Need advice on driver selection and box design to fit in limited space

Hi, currently I'm using pair of floor standers with single fullrange driver MA Alpair 10p.
Due to ongoing furniture replacement I decided to make new bookshelf enclosures for the A10p and then add a single subwoofer for 2.1 system.
The space for the sub is next to the TV stove - the red box on the picture and it will be next to a entrance to another room.
1708883580417.png


The available space will be enough for a box with external dimensions (from the point of view) WxHxD 260x650x480 mm
The gross internal volume is 60L (2.11ft3)

1708883817995.png


What do you guys think is suitable for this scenario?
The sub out of my 2+1 amp is rated as 38W@8ohms and 75W@4ohms.
I'm not going to use it for parties just for normal listening and movies.
I'll very much appreciate driver suggestions!
Thanks!

Marantz, MA 6100 mono block amp

Bought brand new long time ago have been using to power my klipsch center channel speaker in my home theater
Can watch for long period of time everything fine but many times in the middle of changing over from commercial to a TV show or in the middle of a movie where the sound stops the amp clips and cuts out completely and then immediately restarts. What in gods name is this?

Frugel-Horn XL for Alpair 10.3/10p, Fostex FF165wk, more

We showed the 1st prototypes of the Frugel-Horn XL for the Alpair 10.3/Alpair 10p* at this summer's VI diyFEST. Subsequently Mark heard them when he stopped by at the end of his recent visit to Canada.

FHxl-visualization.png


*(will wotk with older A10 but is less optimal)

All-in-all we ar every pleased with the results and it is time to get the plans ready for release.

Unlike the original Frugel-Horn and the Frugel-Horn Mk3 there will be a charge for the planset. We are proposing a minimum $10 donation to the forum in exchange for the plans.

But before that we need a couple or 3 beta builds to help hammer the planset into shape... it is currently just a plan view.

If you are interested -- they need to be built fairly soon -- send me an email.

Attached is a plan with the extents noted, these are a fair bit larger than the FH3, make sure they will fit.

Chris is just finishing up the finish on our prototypes, i willpost pictures as soon as i can.

FHXLx3-masked700.jpg


dave

edit (22-aug-16): How to get detailed plans

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Subwoofer Driver Impedance Selection - Power vs Sound Quality

I am planning to build a sound system utilizing Art Welter's Keystone subwoofer design, outfitted with one of the suggested B&C 18inch drivers. Question I had was whether to go with 4ohm or 8ohm driver variants. 4Ohm seemed preferable because it would allow for greater amplifier headroom for a given amplifier, but then I came across a thread somewhere that suggested something to the effect of: "All else equal, a higher impedance driver/amplifier combination will sound tighter." I interpreted this as: Running from the same amplifier, 100db from an 8ohm driver would tend to sound tighter than 100db from an otherwise-identical 4ohm driver.

This led me down a rabbit hole, where I uncovered the following: this thread here partially answered my question with respect to physical construction of drivers. Summarizing posts #8 and #11: "lower impedance means not only thicker wire and less turns, but more moving mass in the voice coil - therefore, voice coil movement becomes "sluggish", compared to different , lighter coils, high frequency response suffers, same with "sharpness", transient attack". I also found another thread that I can't re-find that suggested the following, focusing on the amplifier & current: With total output power being equal, the higher voltage into the 8ohm driver equates to the amplifier having a stronger 'grip' on the driver. The hose analogy was invoked - for the same amount of water, the 8ohm load sees a higher pressure and therefore should be more responsive. Ok, got it - higher impedance has sound quality advantages.

The downside then would be current draw & amplifier strain/headroom, since an 8ohm system will draw more current than a 4ohm system run at the same power/volume and also utilize more of an amplifier's maximum output power. (Edited to correct backwards math.)

I'm willing to believe that the sound quality difference is meaningful, and I will prioritize SQ to the extent possible, but I don't have an unlimited amplifier budget for amps to provide ample headroom for the 8ohm load.

So - which way to go? I'm sure some of you pro audio techs have wrestled with this before - is the extra ~3db of headroom (assuming roughly double the power at 4 ohm is available from a given amp model vs 8 ohm) worth the tradeoff?

choosing a Tube input topology for Class D module

Greetings.
Need to add some “tube goodness” to the newest generation of class D modules. I could use around 3-5 db of gain. My question is, HOW do I choose the tube circuit topology when there are many options?

Let's start with unbalanced version and 3-5 db of gain.
Be able to drive 20K input impedance, not add a lot of noise and most importantly, give me some tube sound.

There are so many options that I have found, just Broskie alone has at least 6 different ones.
Deware zkit4: https://www.decware.com/newsite/zkit4.htm
Allen Kimmel mu linestage
Broskie aikido, https://glass-ware.stores.yahoo.net/9pinccda.html
lampizator anode follower with 6n6p

Of course, I would prefer simplicity and real good sound! What am I missing with lets say, Decware zkit4, one tube, double triode, as simple as it gets? Why go further and what would other designs bring to the table?

thanks!

KEF NT25 tweeter ferrofluid replacement glue question

Hi everyone,

I am going to be undertaking this procedure on my Kef Reference 3.2s and I could do with some reassurance!

I am just wondering what sort of glue I need to use to join the plastic dust cap/surround to the metal magnet back together once I have replaced the fluid?

Is superglue / Gorilla glue too strong?

For reference it's the two pieces shown here: https://audiokarma.org/forums/index...-pictures-and-a-question.709897/post-16063194

Thanks very much!

LuDEF

First one in last series of xformer FE amps

Even if I really like, adore and prefer level of Organicity, gotten with that approach (buffer- autoformer gain - no overall NFB loop) ....... what's enough, it is enough

so this one is one of "Look Ma, with no hands!!" thingies ( when I was a Kid, first time driving bccle without hands on bars, enduring endless flack right after) .......

So - this one, Look Pa, no SITs!!*** :rofl:

Had a short listening session this evening, right after finishing it on T-Bed, sorta overwhelmed.
Will listen more tomorrow, but have a feeling that I'm not going to change a thing, pretty much done that while prototype was in Ikebana shape

What sims predicted and I got in vivo - insane THD levels; can't explain, can't explain......
Of course - things can be varied a little, but as far as I'm concerned - only in one way - varying Uds of LU +/-100mV ( so down to 2V3 and up to 2V5, now sweet spot being at by Papa prescribed 2V4, F3 Beastie)

So, this one is first, more to come

Rails - usual FW format ( Donut having 2 of 18Vac sec. windings) , Iq and rest of details written on schm

***Dilemma - is LU SIT, or not SIT?

:rofl:

edit on 30.04.
: PSU is regular FW Format;
my iteration of same is - per channel - 250 to 300VA Donut with dual 18Vac secondaries, two Graetz bridges, filter bank 33mF-0R1/5W-33mF, per rail

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For Sale Heyboer Power Transformer 400-325-250-0

Used Power transformer originally wound for the Guinivere project about 20 years ago and still functioning as:
262-340-422-0 5V@3A 6.3V@3A

Leads are all cut but even the very short Primary long enough to splice. There is EAR SD-40 attached to the base and the bolts are brass..

USPS Ground Advantage estimates at $25 so that is the flat rate you will pay

Payment by US Postal money order only, sold as is

PT2.jpg

Aerofara mini/musicPC W10 Pro, miniDSP Flex Digital, Volumio Primo

As the title says. I no longer need these and want to give them a new home.

Asking:
euro 100 for the Aerofara
euro 100 for the Volumio Primo HiFi Edition - sold
euro 100 for the miniDSP (note: the label on the back says Dirac but this is without a Dirac license!) - sold

All come with original power adapter.

The Aerofara comes with W10 installed and has the following connections on the rear and sides:
3 x USB-3, VGA, HDMI, SD card slot, Ethernet, Headphone.
Read the review here: https://www.cnx-software.com/2022/0...eleron-n5105-mini-pc-windows-11-ubuntu-20-04/

I am located in Belgium, will charge shipping at-cost.
Ask me for a binding shipping estimate to your location.

If you are desperate, make me an offer I can't resist ;-)

Jan

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Woodside Electronics SET-30 - Help!

I have an unusual Woodside triode power amplifier that started blowing fuse a while back. I put it away for 10 years and recently came across it in a move and would like to get it operating again. When it did run it was the best sounding amplifier I’ve ever heard, other than my even older Futterman OTL’s.

The company, while quite helpful, didn’t have much information as only a handful were made long ago. I have a TV-7D/U tube tester and a multimeter, and am pretty good with a soldering iron. I’ll begin by testing the signal tubes, but I have no parameters for the output tubes for my TV-7. The filaments have continuity.

I’m told the amp draws 4 amps from the power transformer… I hope it’s not shot.

Where should I begin after testing the tubes?
1000001916.jpg

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Could someone explain this Leakage Current rating for this filter cap? (see in description)

I'm looking for replacement filter capacitors for my amp and found a really good one, but by the spec sheet I can't tell the actual leakage current rating. Is 3 milli amps a maximum? Because if it was the actual one, then it's way too high. Here's the line from the data sheet:

Leakage Current.png


Here's the full document: Datasheet

I would appreciate if someone could explain it to me and possibly tell the actual rating.

Evidence of Driver Break-In Captured

I was starting on a new speaker design using a Fostex woofer from their NX6A powered monitor. This 6.5in driver has a unique pinched cone and wrinkled surround, similar to the Purifi woofers. I got the bare drivers about 3 years ago for a blowout sale ($15 IIRC). Since these are not currently in production anymore, this speaker design would be fully open source and was being made for my personal DIY pet project (not commercial). I started to describe it here. Anyhow, after installing the driver in suitable cabinet that I had lying around, I proceeded to make some measurements to collect the FRD files needed to simulate the XO. The speaker looks like this. Tthe cabinet was an early prototype for another woofer and tweeter so none of the cutouts had rebates or cutouts that fit the NX6A woofer and a Dayton AMT2-4 tweeter that I had planned on using. So, I had to make some 3D printed adapters for the tweeter and for the woofer, I settled for surface (non-flush) mounting and will live with it.
1708572548824.png



So after putting the speaker with drivers installed and I took the initial sweep, I was shocked at the high level of distortion from 150Hz to 4khz, especially the 3rd and 5th harmonic distortion (note that distortion levels in legend refer to distortion at cursor location - which I am not sure if I kept constant - I would go by the vertical dB axis value though, you can see distortion peak at 64dB :
NX6A-Breakin-Dist-01.jpg


I spent the next hour trying to see if there was a setup issue, or something wrong with the electronics, wires, frame rattle, etc. All to no avail. But what I did notice was that the level of distortion was slowly going down with each sweep. I was playing with removing the vent tube, plugging the tube with stuffing, or leaving the tube in, thinking it might have something to do with it. Here are subsequent sweeps and you can see each one, the level of THD goes down a bit. the sweeps are chirped sound lasting about 5 seconds.

Number 2 (vent tube removed):
NX6A-Breakin-Dist-02.jpg


Number 3 (with vent tube back in):
NX6A-Breakin-Dist-03.jpg


NX6A-Breakin-Dist-04.jpg


Seeing the THD go down a bit, I tried running 45Hz at about 2.8vrms for 1 min to see if this loosened up the suspension: And it sure did!
NX6A-Breakin-Dist-05.jpg


So I tried leaving the 45Hz on for 60 minutes - distortion at 300Hz went down to about 34dB an apprximate 30 dB improvement!
NX6A-Breakin-Dist-06.jpg


I wanted to be sure it was not caused by the vent or lack of one or by plugging the vent, so I took a few more sweeps in different configs and now the distortion remained low:
NX6A-Breakin-Dist-07.jpg


NX6A-Breakin-Dist-08.jpg


Here are all the responses overlaid and you can see the effect of the vent/no vent/stuffed vent:
NX6A-Breakin-Study-Freq-All.jpg


So I have left the speaker on playing music continuously for 3 days now, hoping that maybe I can eek out a bit more improvement. I have not checked again yet, but it seems the majority of break-in for this deiver occurred in the first hour playing some bass to really move the cone.

Here is the Wago plank crossover that I ended up with:
1708573612790.png


Measured response:

1708573650765.png


Overall distortion at 2.0Vrms and microphone 0.5m away:
1708573682010.png


Measured phase variation:
1708573730467.png


Pretty clean now. It sounds quite nice. But I think I have seen it with my own eyes and instrumentation - the real effect of driver suspension break-in on harmonic distortion. Has anyone else measured something similar? You can listen to the current speaker here.
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For Sale Germany/Berlin: Dayton RS225-8, Faital HF108, active XO, enclosures

Hello,
I know putting this out here, chances are slim.
This is ideally for pickup as a whole set. (~near Berlin)
If you are interested let me know if you want the whole or just parts of it
and we will work out a price that will be more than fair.

I already built test enclosures for this (2-way, ~40l, sealed so far) out of 18mm birch ply.
HF108 is used but working.
RS225-8 are brand new in box.

Optionally in addition to the speakers set (2xenclosure, 2xHF108, 2xRS225-8 & connectors)
I can offer an active XO and amps too if there is interest:
Minidsp 2x4, UMIK-1 USB microphone, two Ayima A04 and input selector unit with PGA2310.
I can also include a Vicor power supply 24V/10A.

Best regards from Fürstenwalde
Jens

camillaDSP: How to monitor and control audio channel mapping to HDMI?

In CDSP I am mixing 2 stereo channels to 8 (2x4) channels out to hdmi:vc4hdmi0. I expected that the channel mapping would auto-magically follow the CEA-861 CA=0x13 mapping. I.e. [FL, FR, LFE, FC, RL, RR, RLC, RRC].

In practice the CDSP outputs do not appear to follow this mapping at all. Based on listening to the AVR outputs they are currently mapped [RL, RR, RLC, RRC, FL, FR, LFE, FC]. I also suspect that this mapping actually changes in some sessions, but I am not yet sure what conditions cause a change. This is of particular concern for speaker x-over applications.

In contrast, the speaker-test application consistantly conforms to CEA-861 CA=0x13 (assuming the numbers it displays really are it's output channel indices.).

I did notice that the alsa Loopback device has auto-magically acquired several associated surroundXX plugs, but the hdmi devices have not. - this might be significant, or not.

Config: rpi4b, bookworm, os-lite, pyCamillaDSP 2.0.2 Backend 2.0.1, Onkyo TX-SR875 AVR

Phillips FA960 MKII STK3102-2 very low idle current

Hi all.
I bought Philips FA960 MKII. After reconnection transformer from 220V to 240 V, recapping, changing voltage regulators in power supply, and putting some new resistors,everything sounds nice and clean, without any noise or hiss.This amp is the first one, what is completely quiet. You don´t even know, if it is turned on or off.
But one thing is very interesting.I measured idle current of STK 3102II (someone replaced the old one 3102 III).
Left side 2,3mV, right side 3,0mV.The manual says it should be 14mV (39mA).So I tried to put R-side very carefully to 6-7 mV while I was touching the cooler on the STK.It was getting too HOT very quickly.So I put it down immediately to 2,3mV like on the left-side. I have tried to adjust 3,6mV on both channels.STK got hotter and the sound has changed (in middle frequencies it was very nice and tight, but treble sounded much sharper....).
So now it is idling at 2,3mV. Amp is without distortion, just slightly warm and the heat sink with output transistors is nearly cold.
Maybe it is normal, that at 6mV it gets so hot, you can´t even touch the cooler of the STK.
.... But then you have to replace STK and all the caps around very often due the heat.
Could someone tell me, is so low idle current normal?
Thank you very much. Jan.

Amplimo LR-24 relays - source?

I'm trying to find some reasonably reliable relays (DPST) to use as speaker output switching relays. Previously used Omron 2Gs oxidised their contacts and sounded horrible. I came across the Amplimo LR24 which has dual tungsten and gold contacts (the tungsten closing first). The snag is I cannot seem to source one in the UK (Amplimo won't supply to UK due to Brexit). Does anyone know of a source or any good alternative?

(Next tine round clearly a design which doesn't need speaker relays would be good - or a shorting relay rather than a signal carryting one)

Alan

For Sale GU-48 ( 833A ) old NOS tubes

I would like to offer OLD NOS GU-48 tubes. They are mentioned in this my thread

https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/tubes-valves/365401-tube-amplifiers-pmc-eb1i-speakers.html

Before this 833A project, I have collected a lot of GU-48 tubes from russian traders. They there all in sealed original boxes. During the 833A project, I assembled a high voltage test unit, and heated up all the tubes with applying 1700-1900V voltages to plates. All tubes were stable in plate current after few minutes of heating, that is absolutely wonderful result for big tubes produced in 1972-1974 year. They are very good and reliable stuff, and I could select even "matched" pairs and quards, based on the one-parameter testing results.
I could sell up to 20pcs of these tubes, packed as pairs or as quards, with good packing quality. I want 125usd/pcs, plus shipment.

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Exactpower EP-15A Voltage Adjustment?

I recently got one of these back up and running (replaced the group of four small caps), but the output voltage is a little high at 122-123V (instead of 120V +/- 1V).

There are three trimpots inside, and I am guessing that one or all are required to adjust the output voltage.

Before I start experimenting, does anyone know what each of these trimpots adjust?

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Burson V6 Vivid Review

I am posting this review of Burson V6 in the solid state section because although its an Operational Amplifier but it is also a discrete OP AMP.

Couple of months back John Burson offered to send Burson Discrete Op Amps and I had to d a review in return, as my sci fi novel are in the final stages of completion I utilized my humorous acumen to review Burson V6 Vivid, so here goes:


In my recent escapade with the venerable miro1360 AD1865 DAC, enhanced by the magnificent Burson V6 Vivid discrete operational amplifier, I uncovered a treasure trove of auditory delights! Allow me to regale you with the saga!

Installation Extravaganza:

The Burson V6 Vivid's insertion was akin to a masterful swordplay manouver in a medieval epic - seamless and fitting like a bespoke suit. Kudos to Burson for making compatibility feel like a breeze on a sun-drenched meadow!

The Grand Sonic Melee:

Let's set the stage for our contenders: LME49720HA, LM4562, AD8620, OPA2134, and OPA2604 - each a valiant warrior in their own right. The Burson V6 Vivid, brimming with confidence, danced through this sonic battlefield, challenging each foe with unbridled enthusiasm.


Comparative Table:


Operational AmplifierPerformance Rating (Out of 10)Verdict
Burson V6 Vivid9.8Majestic!
LME49720HA9.7A Worthy Adversary!
LM45629.4Respectable Showing!
AD86209.0Sturdy Effort!
OPA21348.8Admirable Attempt!
OPA26048.8Valiant Fight!


The Burson V6 Vivid asserted its dominance, leaving the LM4562 in awe, coaxing the AD8620 into joyous sobs, and nudging the OPA2134 to strive for more.

Then came the grand showdown with the LME49720HA - a titan, a legend. These two clashed in a battle that resonated through the ages. The Burson emerged triumphant, but it was a contest that left no doubt about the LME49720HA's legendary status.

A Symphony of Sonic Splendor:

The Burson V6 Vivid, the maestro of this orchestra, conducted with finesse and flair. Highs soared like eagles, mids enveloped in a warm embrace, and bass reverberated like the heartbeat of a dragon. It was a crescendo of sonic ecstasy, painting vivid landscapes in the theater of my mind.

The Rendezvous with Spotify:

Connecting the DAC to my trusty iPad via USB and XMOS interface was a tryst made in audio heaven. Spotify, in its highest quality garb, serenaded my senses. It was as if I could hear the artists' very souls, etched into every note and chord.

A Time-Traveling Serenade:

Ah, but the true marvel came when the USB cable embraced my laptop, where audio was set at 24-bit and a resplendent 192 kHz. FLAC files from various artists graced my ears, transcending the boundaries of time and space.

Richard Marx's velvety croon swept me back to the golden days of heartfelt ballads. Celine Dion's powerful vocals carried me to a realm where emotions knew no bounds. Rahat Fateh Ali Khan's soul-stirring songs transported me to distant lands, echoing through centuries of musical tradition. And Pankaj Udhas, with his mellifluous ghazals, serenaded me through a journey of poetic elegance.

In each note, I felt the pulse of history, the heartbeat of artistry, and the essence of human expression. The Burson V6 Vivid had transformed my listening space into a time machine, and I was the fortunate traveler.

In the end, the Burson V6 Vivid left me spellbound. It's more than an amplifier; it's a conduit to a musical universe. While the LME49720HA put up a gallant fight, the V6 Vivid emerged as the resplendent victor, staking its claim as a force to be reckoned with.

Now on a serious note, listening to Music is more than just a few tests about spectrum, frequency response, distortion etc; to me it is a matter of personal preference, the audio setup, the room acoustics and a few other qualitative things, for me Bursons needed about a week’s burn-in time after that they really came alive. LME49720HA with heatsink after burn-in period is much too good. I have Burson v4 as well but I found V6 much better that the earlier versions.

I intend to put the Burson in my version of Bugle 3 clone, but that’s for later. Also I intend to pit it against @Vunce 's IV stage for DAC, that will happen when my TDA1541 DAC is ready, which is currently waiting for WIMA capacitors to arrive.

@John Burson , @miro1360

Here is how my test bed looks like:

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ESS hump strikes back

Sorry for the clickbait title as this is not really about ESS hump. Or is it?

As I was testing my ES9822PRO board I noticed that the 1kHz FFT spectrum has high harmonics up to 100kHz and beyond.

Here is ES9038Q2M to ES9822PRO.

ES9038Q2M-L_ES9822PRO-L_2a.PNG


The harmonics of 1kHz continue throughout the spectrum albeit at a low level.

So are these harmonics coming from the DAC or the ADC?

Here is the same ES9038Q2M DAC but with AK5394 as ADC (fs is now 96kHz).

ES9038Q2M-L_AK5394-L_3a.PNG


So it seems DAC is the culprit. Or is it?

To verify I switched to a 1kHz oscillator (my take on Victor's). Here is 1kHz oscillator + AK5394.

LDO-AK5394-L_1a.PNG


As expected spectrum is quite clean.

Let's repeat that measurement with ES9822PRO.

LDO-ES9822PRO-L_1a.PNG


Surprise, surprise. The 1kHz harmonics are back. Also ES9822PRO has high harmonics.

So it appears that ESS architecture (Hyperstream?) causes high harmonics both in DACs and ADCs. Is this the cause for the infamous ESS sound?

Firstwatt F1J

Nelson appears to have re-spun the original Firstwatt beast, designed as current amplifier, good for fullrange speakers. It got good reviews originally, but not often seen (IMO) as a diy project. I think it's worth discussing here.

The addition of the F1J with SiC JFet's replacing the IRFP240 output devices may breath new life into the circuit. A single stage amp I think as refered as 'the truth machine'.

Here is what Papa says.. (Paraphrased)
The F1J is an update to the F1 where the two gain Mosfet transistors have been replaced by new state-of-the-art power Jfet devices. In addition, there have been changes to several resistor values and removal of the input zener protection diodes.
You may notice that the F1J also has approximately 1.5 dB more gain. This is because the Jfets have a higher transconductance figure that the original Mosfets.

There is another factor as well, which is that the F1J has a lower input impedance than the F1- approximately 30 Kohm balanced and 15 Kohm single-ended. The modifications that help achieve this bandwidth take advantage of lower impedances, so the F1J is recommended for use with preamps with ordinary to low output resistance – tube preamps without cathode followers will work but will not reap as much benefit at high frequencies.

This caveat aside, the F1J delivers a dramatic improvement in current-source amplification. I have often ventured the opinion that improvements in measured performance in simple Class A circuits (particularly with no feedback) usually have the best correlation between what you measure and what you hear, and the F1J bears this out. I think it sounds about twice as good, and I feel certain that you will experience the same remarkable improvements.

Maybe Nelson will share some details for those with the amp, maybe not :p

Help me understand this circuit. Aragon 47k/Acurus P10 Phono Stage

Hello!
Hoping you all can help me understand this circuit and what/where are the critical components in the signal path. This is a 90's Aragon 47k/Acurus P10 phono stage one channel shown in the schematic. My goal is 'simple project' to practice my soldering skills, to try some resistor upgrades, and see what can be can be gained.
I understand R1-R6 are loading resistors, R10 is the input resistor, and Q1, Q2, Q3, and Q4 are transistors. I'm confused how the signal flow seems to split between C9 & C8 (which seem to implement the RiAA curve) and Q5 & Q6. I think R21 & R20 are the feedback resistors in this circuit? Q8 & Q7 seem to be output mosfets? Is R25/R26 in the signal path or just R27? I'd like to make a few part upgrades as the board and components are easy to work with and I have moderately competent soldering skills. Your help/feedback in identifying which resistors are in the signal path that would benefit from upgrading is greatly appreciated.

Happy Audio!
Aragon 47k.png
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Grayhill 2 & 3 decks, dual shaft rotary switches, up to 12 poles

SOLD!

Up for sale set 20pcs of never installed/used/soldered/ DUAL-SHAFT gold-plated rotary switches Grayhill 81073:

- 10pcs two-decks up to 12 poles. By default manufacturer settings 8 pos high deck, 11 low deck, p/n 71CY231366

- 10pcs three-decks up to 12 poles. By default manufacturer settings 11 pos high deck, 3 low deck, p/n 71CY231367

All time kept in plastic bags in normal stable store temperature. Manufacturer specs attached.

Price - $280,-USD, FREE shipping across EU/UK.

Supplying from Ukraine with all distance tracking. PayPal payment way is possible with some specific.


Also possible for sale, can be put into common box to optimize shipping:

Grayhill 2, 3, 4 decks, single shaft rotary switches, up to 2x6, 1x12 poles

Canare Quad L-4E6S pro audio cable, 6mm 9 colors 97m

Mogami W2944 pro audio cable, 2.5mm 8 colors 236m

Some other items, caps, meters, call.

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UPC1237 Speaker protection board: Current requirements

Hi Guys,


I have purchased a UPC1237 speaker protection board for an amp I'm building.



Assembled Speaker Protection Board 30A for Audio Amplifier Amp Omron Relay Delay 699938379519 | eBay


I plan to use a separate 12v power transformer to power the board.


My question regards how much current is required to drive the board.



I've had a good look at the datasheet but I can't identify anything that looks like current requirements.
http://www.unisonic.com.tw/datasheet/UPC1237.pdf

For Sale 46 Directly Heated Tubes

Have a quad of 46 Directly Heated tubes for sale.
They are unused , in their factory boxes. Tubes have the same lot number and internal structure. Boxes conditions is bad. Tubes are in great condition.

Decided to sell them because I am aborting DHT amp project . These have dual grids and grid no.2 can be connected to plate to work like a DHT, to work in Class A ,almost like a 45.

I have no way to test them but the original owner of these mentioned that they have close readings and matched satisfactorily. I cannot guarantee this though.

160USD a pair , including shipping registered + tracking.

300USD the quad, shipped registered+ tracking.

PayPal Friends family only please.

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For Sale Rochester AD1862N Chips Group Buy

I have some AD1862N chips on the way from Rochester. They should reach me in a few days.
They can be reserved at US$160 a quad (registered shipping is included)
Digikey will not charge shipping but Rochester is charging US$28.
Then I have to pay import tax upon arrival.
Coupled with Paypal kind of exchange rate, packing materials for shipping, my time to run the logistics and transport, I am left with some coffee to chill for sending these to members.
I am sure you can do the Maths.
Hence it makes sense for me to sell in quads, otherwise it does not make economical sense to me.
However if you wish to buy just a pair and don't mind paying US$88 ( registered shipping included), I am willing to oblige.
Summarise:
4 pieces ( shipping costs included) = US$160
2 pieces (shipping costs included) = US$88

I can only accept PayPal Family & Friends please. Paying fees to Paypal + the kind of exchange rate does not make this price possible for me to help members to get the chips from Rochester. They now requires a registered company to make the purchase and they do scan companies to ensure that the chips are released to one that requires the use.

Reservation is by means of payment to my Paypal please, not just by words of commitment. So PM me when you are ready to do the transaction and I will give you the cue to pay.

PC components recommendation

Hi Thanks for reading A few years ago i purchased an asus stx II soundcard as part of a new htpc build. When the htpc was completed the audio was full of noises, buzzing, clicking, very disappointing.
Now i have a soundblaster ae-9 soundcard. Which motherboard do you think will work well with this soundcard to get me away from all the problems i suffered from my last build, which cpu and ram should I buy, which power supply. Which components will allow this card to work at its best? I want to take the audio out from the card's analogue outputs into separate stereo power amps for multichannel sound. I've looked at external dacs but they cost £thousands for the quality ones

How to fold Tapped Horn

Hello everyone, I was wondering if there is any way to fold a tapped horn that I have designed in Hornresp around the "BEYMA 15MC700Nd" driver without spending my whole life trying to do it :). I'm familiar with Brian Steele's Excel sheets, but when I try to import the data from Hornresp using the "IMPORT SIM" button in the folding type "SS" excel, and then click the "OPTIMIZE" button, the sheet gives me an incorrect model, attached images below.
By the way, I know the mouth is 8920cm2, but even when I try it with another model like the "v2," image attached below, it still gives me a model with a weird shape or modifies "s1," "s3," and "s4," causing it to no longer have the same frequency response. I was wondering if I'm doing something wrong or if there is another way to fold my Tapped Horn. By the way, the final dimensions of the folded box don't matter to me; it can be any size. Any response will be greatly appreciated, thank you!!

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Can you determine impedance ratio of completely unknown transformer?

So, here's the scenario:
I found a stash of transformers scavanvged from audio equipment but they have no useful markings or identifiers.
Is there any way to determine what if any good these transformers would be as output transformers? (besides building a tube amp and listening to the result)

I have access to pretty much any electrical test equipment you can imagine from handheld multimeters to spectrum analysers and VNAs but I just don't know and can't find how I'd go about testing this. Every method I have seen on the web requires you know at least one piece of the puzzle.

Thanks in advance, would be fun to not just design OTL :)

NEW Speaker Enclosure Type: Open Back-Reflex Hybrid w/ Single Woofer

I believe I invented a new kind of speaker enclosure.

This is an "Open Baffle Reflex Hybrid" which has the upper half of the woofer exposed on the rear of the cabinet (dipole), with the lower half of the woofer reflex loaded.

+hybrid_open_back_reflex__29572.JPG

+hybrid_open_back_reflex__2953.JPG


A special divider (see center photo of the oddly shaped piece of wood) wedges across the middle of the woofer, creating separation between the open baffle top and the bass reflex bottom. This structure comes to within 1cm of the cone (left picture). Right photo shows the speaker before I installed the divider. The opening just behind the cone doubles as the bass port. There is no other port.

+hybrid_open_back_reflex__2946.JPG
+hybrid_open_back_reflex__2943.JPG
+hybrid_open_back_reflex__2944.JPG

The closer I was able to get the divider to the woofer cone, the lower I could tune the port. A larger gap would tune the system to a higher frequency. A smaller gap would tune lower, but invite the cone slapping against the divider.

Below is the frequency & phase response in-room of the finished system:

+hybrid reflex dipole 1july2021 freq response phase.png


This divider is air-sealed against the magnet and spokes of the frame with modeling clay. The tuning frequency is 57Hz which was the lowest I could attain, given the size of the enclosure (~1ft^3 / 28 liters) while not making the space between the divider and the woofer cone prohibitively narrow.

The impedance curve shows the reflex tuning:

+nadler-hybrid-dipole-RS270p-impedance.png


About 1/3 of the back of the woofer is exposed and 2/3 funnels down into the enclosure. The polar pattern is really more like a cardioid. (However, I'm sorry I only have 180 degree polar plots, not 360.)

+hybrid_polar_spectrum_70-20K.png

The polar spectrum shows a very even constant directivity of about 90 degrees from 100Hz to 20KHz. The tweeter is the classic Audax TW034X0 ("D34") mated to a 6.5" Troels Graveson waveguide, which makes a superb combination.

This is frequency response about 2 feet in front of the speaker. This position doesn't pick up the rear port radiation which is why you see the response droop below 150Hz. The farfield is better as you can see in a different curve above. This shows 1/3 octave plots at 0, 15, 30, 45, 60, 75, and 90 degrees. As you can see it achieves constant directivity from the bass midrange to the treble.

+hybrid 0 15 30 45 60 75 90 degrees.png


Below 100Hz the speaker becomes roughly omnidirectional with the majority of the output coming from the port. The port has a pretty decent bass peak at about 65Hz with useful output down to just below 50Hz. One drawback is that at high levels there's a fair amount of port chuffing. It's unavoidable given the narrowness of the port necessary to tune the box down to 55Hz.

A problem with this design for high excursions is that as the woofer moves, it is also changing the tuning frequency at the same rate as the signal is varying; so that creates some cringy distortion at high levels. Also it's likely I am getting cone rocking at high levels because of the asymmetry of the air loading. But it's less distortion than the same woofer in a dipole at the same volume level :^>

The Dayton RS270P is an excellent driver. It’s used in some pretty expensive commercial designs. It’s good looking, has very smooth response, has a hard pressed paper cone which makes a very incisive crisp character.

+hybrid open back reflex MiniDSP EQ.png

I used DSP to straighten out the anomalies, of which there are several. ABOVE, see graphic of the DSP bass EQ correction curve, labeled according to which problem is being fixed. It would be pretty hard but not necessarily impossible to execute these with a passive crossover. It would take a lot of trial and error. Not pictured is 3rd order 1500Hz xover between woofer and tweeter. The MiniDSP introduces a sharp high-pass filter below 50Hz which protects the woofer from too much excursion. Very important.

I used FIR DSP all pass filters to correct the phase response so the system is linear phase from 100Hz to 20KHz with outstanding impulse and step response.

+hybrid open back reflex impulse step.png



I could perhaps have patented this unusual enclosure design. But I don’t care to be in the speaker business, and as a business consultant I think most patents are overrated anyway. So I’m giving the design away here.

They are biamped. You can download MiniDSP file here.

This is the cabinet sketch I gave to my Chicago-based carpenter, Seth Cothron, @studio38designs.

+hybrid_white_oak_speaker_plans.jpeg

They sound fantastic. The stereo image is wide and full; they have more bass than a 10” in a straight dipole would produce, and they produce the warm ambient sound you expect from an Open Baffle design. You can't push them terribly hard in the bass (more of a jazz speaker than a rock speaker) but they certainly play a lot louder than if they were normal dipoles; they can play roughly as loud as if this same 10” woofer was in a sealed box.

The imaging is superb everywhere in the room, even standing right next to one speaker; and they are very transparent with great clarity.

On the back panel is also a Peerless 1" dome tweeter BC25SC06-04 for back fill - I find dipoles sound much better with full spectrum on both sides.

Below is the tweeter schematic. The tweeters are wired in series and the LC circuit reduces the sensitivity of the rear tweeter while making the front and rear tweeter curves match better. Woofers are wired straight to the LF amp.

hybrid_nadler_tweeter_schematic.jpeg

I built these two years ago, and a friend suggested that maybe it would be easier to just build a dipole with two separate woofers, instead of creating all of the baffling necessary to divide the output of one. So I did, and the result was the Flanagangsters which I posted about 2 months ago.

I really enjoyed trying something unconventional and I encourage y’all to generate variations of this new enclosure type.

Perry Marshall
nadler_hybrid_desmoines.jpg

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6N13S/6AS7G PP Amplifier schematic

Hello everyone!

I am on my 2nd Tube amplifier project (but I have quite good SS background), and I have some 6N13S tubes which I am looking forward to use as my power output tubes.
I came across this schematic which was published in Elektor 2007 but I would rather ask for some opinions about it before I start designing the PCB.
To be honest, what seems weird to me is the connection of the grid resistors of the second stage, which in my opinion should be connected to GND.
As I said, I am learning a lot so I might be wrong. Hopefully someone will explain what's happening there. I am also keen to upgrade the existing schematic eg. CCS for V1,V2 cathodes, etc.


Kind regards.

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Peachtree new GaN-1 all "Digital Amplifier" the future?? (and it's not Class-D)

Thought this new amp from Peachtree Audio deserved it's own thread. Enjoy!!

This Peachtree could be something, it uses the far faster newest "GaN Technology" (Gallium Nitride) output devices, not Mosfets like Class-D uses.
1: has no dac in it per se, just has a (programable?) DSP processor chip to convert PCM to PWM at the end just before the GaN power output stage.
2: is zero feedback
3: no preamp is used
4: and has no buffers
5: has impressive low .004% THD, very good for an amp without any feedback!!!,
6: It just takes in the digital output from your digital source/s (it has no analog inputs).

Addicted to Audio has the older Peachtree line but not this new GaN-1 "digital-amp" yet.
Busisoft the Au importer said they'll be in soon, but yet to have an RRP put on them.

This is Peachtree Audio, and the new GaN Technology with this digital-amp, that is direct digital input from your source/s.
https://www.peachtreeaudio.com/products/gan1

Here's JD ex-Aussie, (gone back to his Pommy roots,) John Darko's very descriptive high praise review on it.
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Cheers George

Interstage coupling cap replace or bypass?

So... here is the thing. I bought this Reisong A10 a few weeks ago and out of the box it was sounding terrible. At least matched with my Castle Conway speakers. So I started digging, reading and watching videos on how to mod it. I got to make some mods and tube rolling that enhanced the sound but... I'm still missing things. Rock and other "non-vocal/jazz/classical" tracks sound muddy. I need to add that I've no idea what I'm doing, I just follow the modding videos I find 😅. It was on one of them that I heard about bypassing the orange coupling cap (0.22uf) that came from factory with a copper foil cap (0.1uf).

Now, here is the "big question". I'm ready to spend some bucks on this bypass cap, but these questions came to me:

1. Sonically speaking, is it better to just replace the cap or bypassing (parallel) it with a lower capacitance would get more improvement?
2. If the case is the second, the capacitance of the bypassing cap affects the sound? Meaning, would it have more impact (improvement) if the bypass cap had 0.1uf than a 0.01uf? I ask this because I'm looking at some Duelunds that are quite expensive depending on capacitance.

That's it. All said (or asked). Please be kind to me, it's my first post.
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