My DIY Teres Turntable

[YNWOAN]

A friend of mine has just used a similar chopping block to the one you posted a pic of, to make a plinth for his TT. He was very pleased with the result and it does look nice.

 

[Acoustat]

Good article from 'The Analog Dept.' on an Teres acrylic platter lead shot upgrade and bearing install:

http://www.theanalogdept.com/teres_platter_upgrade.htm

They're using threaded brass plugs to seal off the 'shot'. I'm hopin' to email Fran as well before I go to a CNC mill to get a fix on his 'flywheel' idea for sealing the shot, mass and stability.

Stan

You can also use for convenience brass freeze plugs and just to install

 

[Algar_emi]

Received my motor today. Swiss made, that looks cool

 

[Algar_emi]

Found some time to work on my Teres project. I got very nice lead weight from work. They are over stock, we crumble under them, so why not use some of them

I used a hole saw and cut away lead cylinder. Here the work in progress.

 

[Algar_emi]

Here, the cylinders are almost cut away. No need to say that it tooks some cutting hole

 

[Algar_emi]

And the final result. Each cylinder weight about 730 grams. I'll re-cut them so they are of the same weight.

 

[Algar_emi]

And it makes a lot of left over lead stock, any one interested

On the back you see one of the original lead weight I started with.

 

[Algar_emi]

The plinth weights 3.7Kg. So to I can add between 40% (1.5Kg) to 60% (2.2Kg) to it. I'll probably end cutting my weights in half to get 0.3Kg each. Then I'll need 8 leads weights installed equidistant to the bearing in a circle pattern.

I'll drill hole, 1/8 countersink to install an aluminium sealing cap. I'll cut slices from an aluminium bar to build the cap. I'll mount the lead weight into the cavity using paraffin filling. This way, the lead won't migrate to much into the plinth's wood. Here an ACAD drawing showing how it can be done.

 

[Acoustat]

DIY TT stand

just wanted to share my little TT stand with fellow diy people it weighs in at about 450lbs..

 

[woodturner-fran]

Gorgeous stand acoustat!


Algar-emi - you know that the original teres uses lead shot rather than solid lead billet, right? I know that shot can be hard to get, but I really think you would be better off with a lose material, like lead shot that can absorb vibrations. With the lead weights as you have it you will get the extra weight, inertia etc, but not the vibration dampening.


Another material that is much easier to get and you could try it out is some shot blasting material. It is made from slag from the copper industry and is very cheap and most likely available from where shot/sand blasters get their supplies. Its quite fine and black material - I am using it in a lenco plith thats currently underway here. You could drill out your holes a little deeper and add some of that material first and then the lead billet for more weight after and then the alu cap.


Fran

 

[Algar_emi]

Thanks Woodturner for the comment. Or I can use the left over lead chips and dust and fill the space around the lead billet. This way I should have the best of both worlds.

 

[Ed LaFontaine]

A suggestion

How about using silicone caulk in lieu of the wax? You could still install the lead chips in it to form a "matrix".

 

[Algar_emi]

I'm afraid that silicone will affect the plinth's vernish finish. I remembered, when I built my house, that the silicone smell of the bathroom prevented the guys from vernishing the floors. Silicone vapour can produce fish eye defect into the vernish finish. This is why, I'll try to stay away from silicone with the table.

 

[MJL21193]

I'm afraid that silicone will affect the plinth's vernish finish. I remembered, when I built my house, that the silicone smell of the bathroom prevented the guys from vernishing the floors. Silicone vapour can produce fish eye defect into the vernish finish. This is why, I'll try to stay away from silicone with the table.

If silicone gets on the wood, it will affect the finish. The smell (acetic acid, aka vinegar) is harmless.

 

[woodturner-fran]

As far as I know, Teres is pretty particular about the lead shot, I think it must be no. 8 or no. 9 shot.

Now in reality, the inertia plays an important role, but I would add in some kind of damping if you can. Even sand around the lead would work....

Silicone will affect some finishes, most notably cellulose based sprays - it will fight and you get orange peel finish. If you are oiling the wood, or using an oil based varnish you must likely will get away with it.



Fran

 

[Ed LaFontaine]

OK, I accept the out-gasing of silicone caulk being a problem to finishes and the nose. I had assumed there would be time allowed for the evaporation to run its course...I guess that's a comment on the pace at which I work... There are other materials which fall into the category of "sealants" which remain flexible and would provide damping.

Exterior grade sealants:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/SearchResult.aspx?CategoryID=748
Self-leveling sealants:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/SearchResult.aspx?CategoryID=969

 

[YNWOAN]

You can buy acrylic based 'silicone' sealent now if you wan't to go that route; this will not damage the finish or smell in the same way - although it is quite different in other ways too.

 

[Algar_emi]

Look what Santa brought for Christmas, A nice Teres Delrin Record clamp. A strange gift according to my wife, but you know woman . She didn't find it strange when she got pearls later on that evening

 

[Algar_emi]

I was also waiting for a set of rabetting bit to install the lead into my Teres plinth and Santa was there to provide it . I know I paid for it anyway but, it's Christmas. I want to cap the hole with an aluminium plug and the rabetting bit will be perfect to cut a 1/8" bigger hole than the lead hole.

 

[Nanook]

and a very nice bit at that...

Freud bit setup to boot. You musta been good this year..

stew