Maxhawk,
I have added two 5V relays to my order on the wiki page - simply to save some shipping cost if I were to order separately.
The part number shown is per your suggestion via email.
I was thinking of mounting this relay on the board - with some modification to the board. I think there is enough room on the board to mount this relay.
I have added two 5V relays to my order on the wiki page - simply to save some shipping cost if I were to order separately.
The part number shown is per your suggestion via email.
I was thinking of mounting this relay on the board - with some modification to the board. I think there is enough room on the board to mount this relay.
Although its probably too late I had a thought that could be added to this switch and that is one of thermal sense and shutdown. A simple thermistor sense and then a total shutdown would be really nice. This would eliminate the Clixon switch that hopefully most here are using as a safety measure. Most simply run the AC hot through the clixon. I suppose that even the DC could be routed through the Clixon to shut the thing down. Any thoughts anyone????
I also added two more kits, 4 transformers and 4 switchs to the Wikki.
Mark
I also added two more kits, 4 transformers and 4 switchs to the Wikki.
Mark
highbias said:
Tell me more about this mod and what would need to go the board. Just 2 holes in series with the HOT?
Also I was mistaken about the original PCB dimensions. They are 2.0" x 3.5". Currently I've grown it to 2.2" x 3.7" and all the traces have the proper clearance, except for the point where AC enters the board. I may have to grow the 3.7" dimension to 3.9". Also this particular PWB is "hardwired" to 220VAC only. I need to look into jumper placement to make a universal board.
Attached is the layout as of this moment (bottom side only).
It's going to take a lot more board space to get jumpers to meet the 6mm creepage distance. They have to be 3mm from each other, 6mm away from the PCB edge, and 5mm away from the transformer.
We're looking at probably 4.25-4.5" to get the necessary creepage distance.
There's enough interest that I could just do two versions -- 120VAC and 240VAC. Here's the price differences:
23 pcs of universal PCB: $10.44 ea
or
8 pcs of 240V: $11.25 ea +
15 pcs of 120V: $10.67 ea
There's not a big difference in price at the current quantity. I vote for 2 different PCB's. What do you think?
We're looking at probably 4.25-4.5" to get the necessary creepage distance.
There's enough interest that I could just do two versions -- 120VAC and 240VAC. Here's the price differences:
23 pcs of universal PCB: $10.44 ea
or
8 pcs of 240V: $11.25 ea +
15 pcs of 120V: $10.67 ea
There's not a big difference in price at the current quantity. I vote for 2 different PCB's. What do you think?
Kelly McDonald said:
"Kit" means everything except transformer, switch, relay, and Maxim debounce IC. I have extra parts on hand from the original order I did except for these 4 items.
There is a group buy on the transformer and switch to take advantage of quantitiy pricing. Some people just wants transformers and switches.
Original price was $20 shipped for the "kit". I need to revisit the pricing since we're now doing transformers and switches and some kits are going to Canada and the EU.
"Tell me more about this mod and what would need to go the board. Just 2 holes in series with the HOT?"
Maxhawk,
A couple of pads in series with the relay would be the best way to do a thermal shut down. I am trying to avoid sending the 120 volt hot line to the clixon sensor on the heat sink... A couple of pads at the coil of the relay would be great. Those that don't want to use a clixon sensor can just install a jumper.
Mark
Maxhawk,
A couple of pads in series with the relay would be the best way to do a thermal shut down. I am trying to avoid sending the 120 volt hot line to the clixon sensor on the heat sink... A couple of pads at the coil of the relay would be great. Those that don't want to use a clixon sensor can just install a jumper.
Mark
Hey MAx i think your right we might have to go 2 types of boards and that way there will also be less likely to have any dramas and complications especially if some wants to use it only for 220/240v and wires up the board wrong, the thing might blow up due to wrong setup.Plus i like the idea of putting "A couple of pads in series with the relay" idea so if need be we can add a thermal shut down feature quite easily.If you need more quantities let me know and i will see if i can get more orders for the 240v version also please send me the gerber files once the 240v version has been done please.
Regards
Bowdown
Regards
Bowdown
I've added another column to the Wiki page for voltage so I know how many of each version we need to get. Please update your info.
http://www.diyaudio.com/wiki/index.php?page=Soft+Power+Switch+Circuit+Kit
Also note that the relay that is listed in the table (255-1122) will not plug into the PWB. Its size is much much larger due to the current capacity. If you need high current switching I suggest a 120VAC controlled relay, such as 255-1142 which is a surface mount relay (all connections on top). However this will require you to populate LS1 with the original spec'd part.
Plan is to wrap up the group buy by the end of this week (Dec 3) for the final count. Please update the Wiki page if you're interested in getting in.
http://www.diyaudio.com/wiki/index.php?page=Soft+Power+Switch+Circuit+Kit
Also note that the relay that is listed in the table (255-1122) will not plug into the PWB. Its size is much much larger due to the current capacity. If you need high current switching I suggest a 120VAC controlled relay, such as 255-1142 which is a surface mount relay (all connections on top). However this will require you to populate LS1 with the original spec'd part.
Plan is to wrap up the group buy by the end of this week (Dec 3) for the final count. Please update the Wiki page if you're interested in getting in.
Allied Electronics says current delivery date on the blue LED switches is Feb 4. They're going to see if it can be pushed up.
Check the Wiki page for pricing info.
http://www.diyaudio.com/wiki/index.php?page=Soft+Power+Switch+Circuit+Kit
Check the Wiki page for pricing info.
http://www.diyaudio.com/wiki/index.php?page=Soft+Power+Switch+Circuit+Kit
Allied got back to me and said that the switches are backordered from the vendor and they were not able to locate any alternate stock.
So how would everyone like to proceed? Pay for the switches now so I can get them on order? Or try to do a separate group buy later after the switches are available?
So how would everyone like to proceed? Pay for the switches now so I can get them on order? Or try to do a separate group buy later after the switches are available?
Hello guys, I'm just a newbie interested in these kits
for a pre and a pair of monoblocks.
My preference would be to order everything at once,
even if the switch delays the order.
By the way I ordered some MAX6816 from Newark, and
did not pay attention to the package. The chips that
showed up are in the 4-SOT-143 package, not
SSOP 14L. Oviously I am no expert in packages and
should have paid more attention when ordering
.
If you order your own, don't make the same mistake!
Pierre
for a pre and a pair of monoblocks.
My preference would be to order everything at once,
even if the switch delays the order.
By the way I ordered some MAX6816 from Newark, and
did not pay attention to the package. The chips that
showed up are in the 4-SOT-143 package, not
SSOP 14L. Oviously I am no expert in packages and
should have paid more attention when ordering
.If you order your own, don't make the same mistake!
Pierre
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