Chris, even though IIRC the Thorens 124 and 125 models came with armboards machined for them, I’m certainly inclined to agree with what I infer as your less than enthusiastic appreciation of the SME arms - at least those up to the mid 70’s, i.e. 3009/ 3012. Neither was I much of a fan of the Shure V15 or Stantons that the local dealer shilled most aggressively- Payola existed at both ends of the music industry 
. I personally preferred Peter Pritchard’s ADC XLM and Sonus models to the other moving magnet at time. But of course if you sufficient gain and low noise a MC could bright more to the table
To agree with both yourself and wiseoldman, when mainstream table manufacturers got an arm right - such as on the 701 - compatibility issues with the bewildering choices of cartridge types was far less of a problem.
Looking back on this after over 40yrs, I’m having far more empathy for the freaking nonsense through which I put my wife, not to mention abuse to our finances during that decade of minor debauchery from 73-82 before the forced reality check of parenthood. It was 20yrs before some of those constraints were loosened, but by some accounts, retirement is at risk of disturbing the current stats quo.
. I personally preferred Peter Pritchard’s ADC XLM and Sonus models to the other moving magnet at time. But of course if you sufficient gain and low noise a MC could bright more to the table To agree with both yourself and wiseoldman, when mainstream table manufacturers got an arm right - such as on the 701 - compatibility issues with the bewildering choices of cartridge types was far less of a problem.
Looking back on this after over 40yrs, I’m having far more empathy for the freaking nonsense through which I put my wife, not to mention abuse to our finances during that decade of minor debauchery from 73-82 before the forced reality check of parenthood. It was 20yrs before some of those constraints were loosened, but by some accounts, retirement is at risk of disturbing the current stats quo.
Quote from chrisb: "To agree with both yourself and wiseoldman, when mainstream table manufacturers got an arm right - such as on the 701 - compatibility issues with the bewildering choices of cartridge types was far less of a problem."
Indeed!
Dual tonearms were one of the best-designed and highly regarded ones with a minimal of "fussing" involved.
And to this day, these tonearms, if not abused, are still excellent "carriers" for a wide range of cartridges.
I suppose the great German "clockmakers" must have had a hand in the precision design.
Indeed!
Dual tonearms were one of the best-designed and highly regarded ones with a minimal of "fussing" involved.
And to this day, these tonearms, if not abused, are still excellent "carriers" for a wide range of cartridges.
I suppose the great German "clockmakers" must have had a hand in the precision design.
Hi Chris,
Yes, I know exactly where you are coming from. Looking back, the truth can be painful indeed. I also put my family through hell running a service shop. My children grew up in the shop while my wife and I dealt with all the minor dramas audio can be filled with.
It's funny that my main system is still the same components I had before I met my wife. I picked up other systems over time, but you can't eat stereos. I shouldn't complain, this business did provide for my family. It was a hard existence, but we didn't starve.
-Chris
Yes, I know exactly where you are coming from. Looking back, the truth can be painful indeed. I also put my family through hell running a service shop. My children grew up in the shop while my wife and I dealt with all the minor dramas audio can be filled with.
It's funny that my main system is still the same components I had before I met my wife. I picked up other systems over time, but you can't eat stereos. I shouldn't complain, this business did provide for my family. It was a hard existence, but we didn't starve.
-Chris
I had 4 audio projects lined up for this weekend, but instead, did house repairs.
Earlier this started off as a repair to dry rot damage to an outside door to our water heater locker. Had to get a replacement door, cut in new vent openings and install vents, and paint. Then discovered termites localized in the door jamb wood at the lower hinge area.
This weekend's job was to cut out a section, buy a piece of jamb close enough for me to mill to size, treat the underlying wood against further activity, then splice in the new wood. Decided to screw it into place rather than nail, so I can inspect/re-treat if any new activity shows, but I'll probably just pull the whole jamb next time.
Why not drain the detritus from the water heater while I'm in there, I ask myself? Find out the valve corroded shut with a bad seal; break the stem, then find out it won't shut off after I get it open. Two trips to the hardware store that doesn't have exactly what I need, but I get a better valve in there, and finish installing the wood, with 2 coats primer, 1 top coat until I decide to paint the rest of the jamb.
No matter how many tools I have, how much material on hand, how many parts in boxes and drawers, it's never enough to do the job. But this one's as good as done, though it's kept me from the fun electronics work for 2 days.
Earlier this started off as a repair to dry rot damage to an outside door to our water heater locker. Had to get a replacement door, cut in new vent openings and install vents, and paint. Then discovered termites localized in the door jamb wood at the lower hinge area.
This weekend's job was to cut out a section, buy a piece of jamb close enough for me to mill to size, treat the underlying wood against further activity, then splice in the new wood. Decided to screw it into place rather than nail, so I can inspect/re-treat if any new activity shows, but I'll probably just pull the whole jamb next time.
Why not drain the detritus from the water heater while I'm in there, I ask myself? Find out the valve corroded shut with a bad seal; break the stem, then find out it won't shut off after I get it open. Two trips to the hardware store that doesn't have exactly what I need, but I get a better valve in there, and finish installing the wood, with 2 coats primer, 1 top coat until I decide to paint the rest of the jamb.
No matter how many tools I have, how much material on hand, how many parts in boxes and drawers, it's never enough to do the job. But this one's as good as done, though it's kept me from the fun electronics work for 2 days.
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I'm never use to the fact that you don't tend to have basements where you live. Our hot water heater is downstairs beside the furnace. The electrical panel is about 15' away hanging on the wall at the bottom of the stairs. Someone was thinking when they designed this house! The water heater and furnace are below the stairs leading to the basement. I have about 1,000 sq ft down here to play in. Honestly, I really don't know what I would do without a basement. Also, we aren't taxed on this floor space as long as it isn't finished. It isn't finished and probably never will be. The floor does need to be painted again.
-Chris
-Chris
I too was startled how they do it in a milder clime. Water heater outside? What if the heat fails when it is 20 deg below freezing?? Cellar floor is perpetual 50F, cellar won't freeze for weeks, gives time to drain or get power/heat back. And water heater leaks heat. WTH would we waste that precious heat outside? (We seriously considered putting the new WH inside heated space for full recovery, but went with a thick blanket (electric tank) and lots of pipe-wrap.)
Gas water heat? (OK, my backup is propane, and I had nice gas hot water in my NJ house; but no street-gas in my neck of the woods.)
Earthquake straps??? Yes, Required in Calif. Suggested (by strap-makers) here, but sure not required. (Mine has them, more for mechanical thoroughness than risk of quake.)
We don't have termites either. And carpenter ants here do less damage (in NJ they did chew a porch off).
Yes, if you don't open the drain monthly, it will seize-up in a year. If you do open the factory drain monthly, it will wear-out in a year. Knowing this I bought a better drain when I bought the tank.
Gas water heat? (OK, my backup is propane, and I had nice gas hot water in my NJ house; but no street-gas in my neck of the woods.)
Earthquake straps??? Yes, Required in Calif. Suggested (by strap-makers) here, but sure not required. (Mine has them, more for mechanical thoroughness than risk of quake.)
We don't have termites either. And carpenter ants here do less damage (in NJ they did chew a porch off).
Yes, if you don't open the drain monthly, it will seize-up in a year. If you do open the factory drain monthly, it will wear-out in a year. Knowing this I bought a better drain when I bought the tank.
Here in Santa Rosa it does freeze, but not for extended periods, and the water heaters are usually installed in attached garages, or in insulated closets on the outside of the house. Many years ago, it was required to elevate water heaters installed in garages to prevent ignition of gasoline fumes from parked cars. Strap requirements came later, and we have straps, but no insulation, which I'm going to install, since our temperature swings are getting more extreme.
Freakin' termites are never-ending problem. No carpenter ants, but plenty of carpenter bees, but they are easy to forestall with well-painted siding/eaves.
We have two water heaters to handle the size of the house, so today I'll be installing a new ball valve on the 2nd heater. I don't know why gate valves are so popular; ball valves are often superior. I also wonder why on-demand water heaters aren't more commonly installed?
Freakin' termites are never-ending problem. No carpenter ants, but plenty of carpenter bees, but they are easy to forestall with well-painted siding/eaves.
We have two water heaters to handle the size of the house, so today I'll be installing a new ball valve on the 2nd heater. I don't know why gate valves are so popular; ball valves are often superior. I also wonder why on-demand water heaters aren't more commonly installed?
I just got up in my attic and sprayed Boracare on all the raw wood I could coat as termites are starting to get a little out of hand.
Tenting I am avoiding for now because they dont warranty broken tiles and this summer I will heat the attic to 140 degrees for 5 hours to kill what I can.
Tenting is the best method and gets in everywere.
I added 1300 sq.ft in 2003 and where it attached to the old section, the little critters found a new and damp desert area to wet their chops
Boracare lasts forever and I wish I knew about it when the framing was going up as this is the time to coat everything...
100$ a gallon mixed with water 1 to 1 or thinner
Harris is a cheaper powder you mix with water and when it dries leaves a fine powder
that gets on them and kills their nervous system and they carry it to others. Some kind of
Borate salt
Regards
David
Tenting I am avoiding for now because they dont warranty broken tiles and this summer I will heat the attic to 140 degrees for 5 hours to kill what I can.
Tenting is the best method and gets in everywere.
I added 1300 sq.ft in 2003 and where it attached to the old section, the little critters found a new and damp desert area to wet their chops
Boracare lasts forever and I wish I knew about it when the framing was going up as this is the time to coat everything...
100$ a gallon mixed with water 1 to 1 or thinner
Harris is a cheaper powder you mix with water and when it dries leaves a fine powder
that gets on them and kills their nervous system and they carry it to others. Some kind of
Borate salt
Regards
David
Ball valves have historically cost a lot more. Recent trends have brought them in line and I use them a lot.
On-demand hot water bigger than coffee or hand-rinse is a BIG peak load.
I have one. It is 119,000 BTU gas. It can get a medium flow up from Maine-cold well water to pretty hot. A full flow is just warmed. By comparison I heat the whole Maine house with 40,000 BTU gas. So the water heater gulps gas THREE times faster than the whole-house heater (fortunately for shorter time).
And yes, it is a 4-inch connection to a masonry chimney. Newer ones have fans and vent in plastic pipe to any outside wall, but 3" pipe. Comparison: the 40kBTU house heater exits in 2" PVC pipe and technically I could run it in 1.5" pipe.
If it were electric: whew. 38KW or 156 AMPS at 240V. I only have 100A wire, and 60A makes 250V drop to 226V (113V each side on "120V" taps). I'd have to be flush with money to fund that upgrade. Electric co no help because they know my huge load would just be peak, and costs them more than it's worth (I won't bathe more, so my average demand would go *down* a hair).
With warmer cold water maybe a 119kBTU demand water heater would be fine for two people and one bathtub.
I spoke to my gas guy and HE said another gas customer had the same dissatisfaction, switched to electric storage, and loves it. Storage sure eliminates the warm-hot-HOT-cold swings of a throttled demand heater. (There's a flow-valve supposed to control the gas but it is problematic.) So I got the basic electric tank and I like it better.
An issue with hot water storage. Recent safety concerns say to keep the tap max temperature non-scalding. But water stored at that temp grows germs or something. "We" are not concerned, two older persons who grew up with hot water from *steam* boiler inserts. But hey, good idea. Cash-Acme (Home Depot) calls their product "Heatguard Water Heater Tank Booster". Cross-connects H and C pipes with a thermo valve. Set the tank up to 140F, set the valve to mix to 110F. Modestly increases effective hot storage (also standby loss).
I did briefly try the Heatguard on the on-demand heater (not mentioned in manual). It worked, never delivering HOT water on modest flows, though can't fix the mild water at full flow or the cold water when the gas-valve cuts-out on a trickle.
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To me, the only point to On demand is you never run out of hot water. They installed intensity boilers for on demand water in my last apartment building to replace the old boilers/tanks.
In my current place, I can turn on the hot tap at 4am, wait 5 seconds, and have a never ending supply of hot enough (you must ad some cold or it's too hot) water.
Glad I don't directly pay that bill!
In my current place, I can turn on the hot tap at 4am, wait 5 seconds, and have a never ending supply of hot enough (you must ad some cold or it's too hot) water.
Glad I don't directly pay that bill!
I built up a new usb scope.
The A2D is on a daughterboard.
It didn't work with the pc display what should be mid level sitting at the bottom of the screen.
As this is partly SMD I resoldered the microcontroller and A2D.
Still not fixed. So resoldered them again with same result.
Then spotted an unsoldered joint on the daughterboard molex connector.
Soldered it and everything was fine.
I broke my own rule and didn't do a good visual inspection first.
I had another one which didn't work but I noticed the micro reset pin wasn't even soldered. This stopped the PICKIT3 from programming it.
The A2D is on a daughterboard.
It didn't work with the pc display what should be mid level sitting at the bottom of the screen.
As this is partly SMD I resoldered the microcontroller and A2D.
Still not fixed. So resoldered them again with same result.
Then spotted an unsoldered joint on the daughterboard molex connector.
Soldered it and everything was fine.
I broke my own rule and didn't do a good visual inspection first.
I had another one which didn't work but I noticed the micro reset pin wasn't even soldered. This stopped the PICKIT3 from programming it.
I just finished up going over a pristine H.H. Scott 382B receiver.
It worked fine, but I wanted to do a little housekeeping and checking adjustments.
Just in case anyone from Craig's List is interested in it.
For an older American-made receiver made around 1967, this thing is sweet!
It worked fine, but I wanted to do a little housekeeping and checking adjustments.
Just in case anyone from Craig's List is interested in it.
For an older American-made receiver made around 1967, this thing is sweet!
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My last repair was my PC.
It started having lots of BSOD's.
I looked it up on internet and it said software or hardware problem !
Well that covers everything !
So reinstalled Windows and it was still the same.
So took out one of the DRAM chips and the problem went away.
So bought another DRAM chip and that fixed it.
Then the F:/ drive stopped working.
Turned out there was no stud beneath the mother board on one corner and the pcb was shorting out the sata connector to the case caused by weight of graphics card pressing down. So fixed it.
It started having lots of BSOD's.
I looked it up on internet and it said software or hardware problem !
Well that covers everything !
So reinstalled Windows and it was still the same.
So took out one of the DRAM chips and the problem went away.
So bought another DRAM chip and that fixed it.
Then the F:/ drive stopped working.
Turned out there was no stud beneath the mother board on one corner and the pcb was shorting out the sata connector to the case caused by weight of graphics card pressing down. So fixed it.