If you look at the schematic you’ll see you need (3) CL-60s.
Thank you so much. I missed that third one tucked in the corner.
I think all I am missing right now are some dumb things. Like what sort of wire do I need to buy to hook everything up? Is it different kinds of wire for the PSU to the terminal strip for the Transformer and from PSU to the amp boards and then the Amp boards to the RCA inputs and speaker out puts? Amazon has a 6 color 16 AWG tinned silicon insulated kit www.amazon.com/dp/B089CVMBNC. Is that good enough?
Also, incredibly dumb question, but I've noticed in pictures of different builds that most people put some sort of lug on the wires. Does that have a name?
Hi Paul
To connect transformer-psu-amplifiers, use some „thick“ wires, something 14 - 16 AWG. Not too thick or the installation will become a pain. Not too thin or they will heat up (and/or possibly hamper ground/hum issues?)
For the signal, something around AWG 20-24.
A bit thicker wires for the output (amp to speaker), but don’t exaggerate.
The lug I don’t know what you mean...
To connect transformer-psu-amplifiers, use some „thick“ wires, something 14 - 16 AWG. Not too thick or the installation will become a pain. Not too thin or they will heat up (and/or possibly hamper ground/hum issues?)
For the signal, something around AWG 20-24.
A bit thicker wires for the output (amp to speaker), but don’t exaggerate.
The lug I don’t know what you mean...
Paul, these lugs are called quick-connect or crimp terminals.
DNF18-205FIB-M Panduit | Mouser Europe
They come in 3 colors (red, blue, yellow) - each color for different range of AWG - and a bit different sizes. Make your research - it's part of the fun!
You will also need male connectors for these:
Blocked
Or eurostyle connectors:
https://eu.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Molex/39357-0009?qs=sGAEpiMZZMvPvGwLNS6718sK1WFxc6ZbZPapoj3wSh4=
You will also need standoffs for the PSU PCB, like these:
24431 Keystone Electronics | Mouser Europe
And don't forget the fuses.
DNF18-205FIB-M Panduit | Mouser Europe
They come in 3 colors (red, blue, yellow) - each color for different range of AWG - and a bit different sizes. Make your research - it's part of the fun!
You will also need male connectors for these:
Blocked
Or eurostyle connectors:
https://eu.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Molex/39357-0009?qs=sGAEpiMZZMvPvGwLNS6718sK1WFxc6ZbZPapoj3wSh4=
You will also need standoffs for the PSU PCB, like these:
24431 Keystone Electronics | Mouser Europe
And don't forget the fuses.
Thanks. That was very helpful. The fuses are just the ones that go into the Schurter IEC Power Entry Module that is part of the Back Panel Kit? It says it takes 5x20mm fuses which are fairly standard but I can't find anything about whether those should be fast or slow fuses and how many amps they should be rated at.
Paul, the fuses should be slow-blow. I will leave to you to find out how many amps you need. Hint: read description of the amp you are going to build on First Watt site.
People are very helpfull here, but sometimes they want to see an effort from your side
Finally, it's "do-it-yourself". You have to make your own studies, you have to read a lot.
Remember, you will deal with the lethal voltages here! Nobody can give you all the details in a short message. You have to study to be sure you understand enough to go for that!
Sincerely.
- Alvis
People are very helpfull here, but sometimes they want to see an effort from your side
Finally, it's "do-it-yourself". You have to make your own studies, you have to read a lot.
Remember, you will deal with the lethal voltages here! Nobody can give you all the details in a short message. You have to study to be sure you understand enough to go for that!
Sincerely.
- Alvis
Paul
Just a safety note from my side: once you have connected everything and need to poke inside the amp for any reason, like biasing etc, always do it with only one hand in there, never both. Keep your other hand behind your back, or on your side.
This is to prevent an electrical circuit through the core of your body which includes your heart.
Just a safety note from my side: once you have connected everything and need to poke inside the amp for any reason, like biasing etc, always do it with only one hand in there, never both. Keep your other hand behind your back, or on your side.
This is to prevent an electrical circuit through the core of your body which includes your heart.
Thanks for all the suggestions and help. I've ordered from Digi-Key all (hopefully) of the parts needed to make the PSU and wire it to the F5 and F6 boards etc.. I realize that because it is a "universal" power supply board it is difficult to specify all the parts needed but I do think it would be helpful for a newbie to have a more complete list of the materials needed to build a basic First Watt amp and power supply. The BOM on the DIY Store has some notable holes although I do appreciate the listing of most of the parts. I generated a bill of materials from my Digi-key order so if anybody lurking would like to have that just PM me. I invested at least 8 hours in researching this and I'm guessing that is going to be the least fun part of building these amps.
But it is educational. It's DIY. This way you will have a better idea of what is needed the next time you build an amp.
We all started from the same place. Knowledge is slowly attained. If you run into a problem or have a question, look at it as an opportunity to learn and acquire knowledge, not as time wasted.
We all started from the same place. Knowledge is slowly attained. If you run into a problem or have a question, look at it as an opportunity to learn and acquire knowledge, not as time wasted.
I am trying to put together a PS board. I built one previously. I am building monoblocks. So I want all the components to match to not cause any issues. Mouser is out of the caps. I found a comparable one in the same series. The only difference I can see other than the size is that the slew rate is different 3740 mV vs. 3690 mV. Would that make an appreciable difference when used as monoblocks?
Caps are:
647-LGU1V153MELB
647-LGU1V153MELC
Caps are:
647-LGU1V153MELB
647-LGU1V153MELC
Don't sweat the small stuff. Those are both very decent caps for the PSU. In this current climate of shortages everywhere (especially semiconductors), we can't be worrying about small stuff that does not matter in the greater scheme of a project. What matters is getting it to completion successfully.
The output snubber makes sense when the PSU is used in "non-class A" builds, where the power is drawn, er, dynamically.
Led is a visual indicator of the caps being loaded or not (loaded caps can be dangerous...) and, AFAIK, helps a tiny wee little bit bleeding them?
(I may be wrong on all this because I just read the thread and built it once, for a firstwatt amp)
Led is a visual indicator of the caps being loaded or not (loaded caps can be dangerous...) and, AFAIK, helps a tiny wee little bit bleeding them?
(I may be wrong on all this because I just read the thread and built it once, for a firstwatt amp)
There are some pretty darn smart people on this forum and nobody has ever provided an answer as to exactly what the output snubber does...
So might as well leave it empty. It’s not connected if the resistor isn’t populated, so just ignore.
Do the LEDs need to be populated? No. There are there for cool value only.
So might as well leave it empty. It’s not connected if the resistor isn’t populated, so just ignore.
Do the LEDs need to be populated? No. There are there for cool value only.
