low noise Pre-Amp / DAC power supply MJE15034 TL072 Regulator based on STUDER 900

300mA at what voltage out? This regulator can certainly supply a lot more current than that at 5V, say.
jonners, review the discussion in page 3-4 of this thread.
low noise Pre-Amp / DAC power supply MJE15034 TL072 Regulator based on STUDER 900

The board uses current limiting resistors that allows much higher current than the 300mA. But it is for short duration spike only. The real test is the temperature of the MJE15034 heatsink in steady condition. Keep it below hot to the touching temperature (115°F or so) in ambient air is my personal rule of thumb. The Studer900 clone performs well and lasts long when you run it at reasonable temperature.

Do not trust the e-bay seller's output rating which always inflates it many times.
 
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I just purchase this board and noticed the resistor (I think it shoud be 15 ohm) between the power restistor (0,1 ohm 1Watt) and the diode is missing.
Does this have any influence? I can't test it yet as i'm still waiting for the transfo
 

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I can't seen a missing resistor!

There are two small holes , they are vias that take the current from one side of the pcb to the other. Maybe it is these you refer to?

I currently have one of these boards in bi polar mode powering my Chinese es9038q2m dac....no mods to the dac to separate rails or anything....and it sounds really good.
 
Hello again. I hope all are well and safe and mostly sane :)

My dual board kit arrived about a week ago and I have placed all the components but not started soldering yet. My transformer (30VA r-core with 2 x 9v outputs) hasn’t arrived yet but I believe it’s only a matter of days away. The wrinkle is that in the meantime I’ve bought an AURALiC Aries mini which will replace the Pi/Boss in my main system so I’m thinking I may repurpose the LPSU for that instead. It requires 16V at 1A. So, questions:

1. Is there any advantage (or even possibility) to use the dual board to drive only the Aries mini or am I better off ordering a new single board specifically for the purpose (I’d rather not separate the dual boards as I still want to do the Pi/Boss thing down the track)?

2. I’m assuming that if I can use the dual board, the transformer I have on the way will not be appropriate for a single 16V output. What should I replace it with?

Thanks in advance :)
 
Today connected the studer 900 to the Rpi ? DAC HAT for the first time.
I got a constand humm sound from the speakers. What can be wrong?
Got 220V in / Dual 9V out. Regulate the STUDER to 5,03V with 0,1 Ohm resistor ,so should be able to give enough current out...Rpi starts fine but got constant hum sound from the speaker even i dont plat anything yet.

Connecting The Rpi with my smarthphone charger (5V/3A) doesnt make any sounds at all.
 
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MJE15034 temperature

Today connected the studer 900 to the Rpi ? DAC HAT for the first time.
I got a constand humm sound from the speakers. What can be wrong?
Got 220V in / Dual 9V out. Regulate the STUDER to 5,03V with 0,1 Ohm resistor ,so should be able to give enough current out...Rpi starts fine but got constant hum sound from the speaker even i dont plat anything yet.

Connecting The Rpi with my smarthphone charger (5V/3A) doesnt make any sounds at all.
How hot does the MJE15034 heatsink temperature get? Running more than 0.3 Ampere from this board is risky. The MJE15034 heatsink is too small for an 1A output.
 
Today connected the studer 900 to the Rpi ? DAC HAT for the first time.
I got a constand humm sound from the speakers. What can be wrong?
Got 220V in / Dual 9V out. Regulate the STUDER to 5,03V with 0,1 Ohm resistor ,so should be able to give enough current out...Rpi starts fine but got constant hum sound from the speaker even i dont plat anything yet.

Connecting The Rpi with my smarthphone charger (5V/3A) doesnt make any sounds at all.

You've set the 5.03 VDC OUT without any load, didn't you...? What is measurement on the meter now while the RPI/DAC is running...?
 
It gets very hot. Can not touch after 1-2 minutes. What is a good way to change the heatsink and keep things compact? The legs of the MJE15034 look to short to bent them and connect the casing.
The MJE15034 is in TO-220 which is meant for low current power circuit. The whole Studer900 PSU is designed around it. You may try to find a higher current power transistor in TO-3P or TO-3 case for replacement. It may not work too well even if it works.

Your solution is a higher rating PSU, linear or switching should both work. This one on e-bay may work for you.
5A MJL15025 Linear High Current Regulated Power Supply Board DIY Kits Low Noise | eBay
I have no first hand experience on this board, but the approach seems to be what you need.
s-l1600.jpg

I have used several PSU board based on the L1038CP chip (in TO-3P case) for the 1-1.5A output range. It works well. The noise level is that of a straight LM317 without a de-noiser. It should be good for your application too.
Assembly LT1083CP Linear Adjustable Voltage HIFI Regulated DC Power Supply Board 699903130848 | eBay
 
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I have used the 'Studer 900' clone to power a RPi 3B+ with no problems, provided that the heatsink is adequate. An RPi4 might be too much for it though. I think the most you can hope for at 5V is 2.5A, which is what the eBay sellers of the cased PSUs specify.
 
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you use it with the standard heatsinck? In an exclosure?

I have nothing attached to the Rpi4 exept the DAC board
So I dont think i will pull the 3A.
Still The heatsinck get very hot.
I have 9V AC input but it measure 10,4 onloaded.

I can lower the settings from the Rpi4 a bit but I dont know of it would make a lot of difference in current flow.