cabling is exactly as I like it ...... thin, thin , thin
though ..... you can buy for cheap (in De) teflon or Kynar isolated wire - solid core , silvered , d~0.2mm
it's easier to work with than with enameled , and if you buy 3 rolls of diff. colors , superduper easy and convenient
also great for shorter interconnects , especially if combined with Eichman Bullit or copies of same
though ..... you can buy for cheap (in De) teflon or Kynar isolated wire - solid core , silvered , d~0.2mm
it's easier to work with than with enameled , and if you buy 3 rolls of diff. colors , superduper easy and convenient
also great for shorter interconnects , especially if combined with Eichman Bullit or copies of same
ZM, here - to serve and protect!
yr so right : )
okidoki .... time for some reading and nap
tell us tomorrow about sound impressions ...... when both your head and Iron settle down .......
yr so right : )
Long time ago : )
i really owe you a listening report. It won´t be a well done reflected Mikorist „Musterschüler“ review of „Spitzenklasse“ equipment. It is still eating fuses and i really have to check what it is. It just eats them when powering on the preamp. Every fifth time or so.
My set had a B1 (early same jfet sex version). It has wonderful depth and nothing to complain about except the sometimes missing gain.
Switching to the pumpkin, subjectivly a little depth got lost but could be also that separation improved, not being that centered anymore. It really has to take me some more hours of listening. My girlfriend, entering the room, asking „does it (endlich!) work now?“ does not help.
Maybe B1 adds a little H2 (not sure), what pumpkin doesnt. Others than that it is a wonderful piece of equipment, adding just a little (pleasing harsh) corona on female voices that like with the Sissy Sit DEFINITELY comes from the iron : ). Forgive, i´m sure thats pure psycho listening (same as 6L6 had when listening to F6 : ).
Bottom end information is being delivered to the power amp with no compromise, top end is very natural, without compression, nor the „(over)pronounced“ character what is sometimes found in active gain systems.
thats a bit lean, word are sill more lightweight than nice AVC, but all i can say so far. I guess i become to love it : )
Next i´ll do a re-cabeling with the Kynar cables you recommended. They arrived and seem to be superconvenient to work with. Tnx! My hairy superthin cabeling is ok but a little risky on long term i guess.
During asemblance i smashed the BC139 with the force of the screw for the heatsink. I got another, changed it and had a cold solderpoint in the beginning, so 0V + and 12V - for a few seconds. But as far i see, it didn´t damage something.
Now Pumpkin SE and me have to settle down a bit, just getting better : )
all best and manythanks!
st.
i really owe you a listening report. It won´t be a well done reflected Mikorist „Musterschüler“ review of „Spitzenklasse“ equipment. It is still eating fuses and i really have to check what it is. It just eats them when powering on the preamp. Every fifth time or so.
My set had a B1 (early same jfet sex version). It has wonderful depth and nothing to complain about except the sometimes missing gain.
Switching to the pumpkin, subjectivly a little depth got lost but could be also that separation improved, not being that centered anymore. It really has to take me some more hours of listening. My girlfriend, entering the room, asking „does it (endlich!) work now?“ does not help.
Maybe B1 adds a little H2 (not sure), what pumpkin doesnt. Others than that it is a wonderful piece of equipment, adding just a little (pleasing harsh) corona on female voices that like with the Sissy Sit DEFINITELY comes from the iron : ). Forgive, i´m sure thats pure psycho listening (same as 6L6 had when listening to F6 : ).
Bottom end information is being delivered to the power amp with no compromise, top end is very natural, without compression, nor the „(over)pronounced“ character what is sometimes found in active gain systems.
thats a bit lean, word are sill more lightweight than nice AVC, but all i can say so far. I guess i become to love it : )
Next i´ll do a re-cabeling with the Kynar cables you recommended. They arrived and seem to be superconvenient to work with. Tnx! My hairy superthin cabeling is ok but a little risky on long term i guess.
During asemblance i smashed the BC139 with the force of the screw for the heatsink. I got another, changed it and had a cold solderpoint in the beginning, so 0V + and 12V - for a few seconds. But as far i see, it didn´t damage something.
Now Pumpkin SE and me have to settle down a bit, just getting better : )
all best and manythanks!
st.
if you put some biggie caps right after Graetz bridges , it'll eat fuses naturally
I'm using 470uF there ( no need for more due to superduperity of reg itself) and T160mA fuses , without problem
go to T250mA or put 10R NTC in mains , as with power amp
regarding sound - Iron
(both SE and non-SE) is deliberately made to be maximum possible neutral ....... if you ask for more 2nd , install Borbely WCF option and you'll have more sugar
I don't need it , my speakers being mellow enough to choose a path of neutral preamp and whatever else I want from amp only
believe me - whatever other AVC you install as standalone , it'll be less neutral than proper buffer+AVC combo
not saying what you must like more ...... that's still yours to choose , even if I'm Mighty ZM , that's not mine to deal with ......
I'm using 470uF there ( no need for more due to superduperity of reg itself) and T160mA fuses , without problem
go to T250mA or put 10R NTC in mains , as with power amp
regarding sound - Iron
(both SE and non-SE) is deliberately made to be maximum possible neutral ....... if you ask for more 2nd , install Borbely WCF option and you'll have more sugarI don't need it , my speakers being mellow enough to choose a path of neutral preamp and whatever else I want from amp only
believe me - whatever other AVC you install as standalone , it'll be less neutral than proper buffer+AVC combo
not saying what you must like more ...... that's still yours to choose , even if I'm Mighty ZM , that's not mine to deal with ......
i didn´t doubt that at all ; )
ZM, say, you already opened the 24 steps switch. Is there a chance to reduce needed force to turn da knob (klick)? Guess there is little iron ball with spring...
I opened it , as I wrote , and greased everything with that teuer graphiteblahblah grease
small ball and spring are contained in cavity of front white part of switch , and you can't reach it , because indexed circle plate is sort of riveted
don't use force - use bigger button
edit: what size of fuse you ended with ?
Donut is 30VA, if I didn't wrote that earlier ......
small ball and spring are contained in cavity of front white part of switch , and you can't reach it , because indexed circle plate is sort of riveted
don't use force - use bigger button
edit: what size of fuse you ended with ?
Donut is 30VA, if I didn't wrote that earlier ......
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thanks for knob info, i just didn´t want to open switch with shooting spring loaded parts flying around my head and vanish in the holes of old wooden floor : )
about fuse: it is not that annoying and end of week i´ll have time to care about more properly cabeling, recheck again, and than i´ll might go to a higher value.
got 20 fuses more to spend , or i just don´t turn it off : )
tnx!
