"WHAMMY" Pass DIY headphone amp guide

Love this amp. I am currently using it as a preamp into a NAD 2600 and it’s taking the place of a Schitt Vali 2. In the previous setup, the background is dead quiet up to 3 o’clock on the Vali, when I have the WHAMMY one line, I’m getting a hiss that barely overlaps with the top end of my listening level. It’s not so much of a problem, but I’d like to get rid of it. Could it be too much gain? I know what to look for as far as hums, not so versed in hisses. Thanks for any insight y’all can pass on.
 
Thanks, 6L6!

I've purchased 3 boards and the components to match to build for my friends as a gift. I haven't picked up the a chassis yet, though... I've been waiting 🙂

Was it designed with the 27mm ALPS pot in mind? And, any early pics / sketches that you're able to share yet? 🙂
 
It will use the RK27 and the knob in the kit, (and the big IEC inlet.) It will use a different (switching) headphone jack and make it easy to attach RCAs. There will be a small parts kit offered in conjunction with the chassis to get all the proper pieces to make the chassis work as designed with the Whammy kits already out there.

Photos when it's in the store and ready to sell. The first batches of this stuff always sell out lightning fast.
 
That's a good point... Is there an email list or some way to be notified when it's available?

The small parts kit sounds like it's exactly what I need, too. I haven't picked up RCAs, knobs, or IECs yet for this exact reason. So, this should work out great in my situation.
 
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There will most likely be some kind of announcement beforehand. First batch sells out then we make a preorder for batch 2 and figure out how many are needed to fill the remainder (which is usually the majority) of the demand. It's not a perfect system, but it works within our structure for production.
 
The small parts kit sounds like it's exactly what I need, too. I haven't picked up RCAs, knobs, or IECs yet for this exact reason. So, this should work out great in my situation.

The supplement kit ("Chassis kit" ?) is going to be made assuming you already have the parts kit currently sold in the store - The store Whammy kit has the big cool knob, one set of RCAs, some wire, the IEC inlet, and obviously all the bits to populate the PCB. The Sup kit would have things like the different jack, another set of RCAs, some more cable or wire to make the input/output connections (because they will be a bit different), the build-out resistors for the line out, etc... The plan is if you bought the store kit, the chassis, and the chassis supplement kit, you'll have every piece necessary to have a working whammy, in that chassis, with all the holes filled properly.

Part numbers for the pieces that fit the chassis will of course be available if you need them or bought your parts elsewhere. But it's all pretty common stuff. 🙂
 
Awesome, thanks for all the info again 6L6!

One last question and I'll stop bugging ya 🙂

I'm not too familiar with the switching jack. Would that allow me to connect a second pair of RCA's to the "other" side of the TRS jack in order to allow the Whammy to power a small set of desktop monitors? And, the bypass functionality would cut the signal to those monitors when headphones are plugged in? And if so, does the new chassis allow for this configuration by default? (i.e., two sets of RCAs pre-drilled?)
 
Would that allow me to connect a second pair of RCA's to the "other" side of the TRS jack in order to allow the Whammy to power a small set of desktop monitors?

And, the bypass functionality would cut the signal to those monitors when headphones are plugged in?

And if so, does the new chassis allow for this configuration by default? (i.e., two sets of RCAs pre-drilled?)

Yes.

Yes.

Yes.
 
When would you ever use that...?

Haha I had the same thought, but my buddy says it'd be useful to have both available for when he's mixing audio. "a/b comparisons, and because I have to use my headphones when I record audio so that you don't get feedback from the speakers, so I'm constantly switching."

He has a scarlet audio interface with the line out currently being occupied by his monitors. I know that another solution is to get a Y-adapter for both the monitors and the headphone amp... which, personally that's what I would do as an inexpensive solution to accomplish that, and still retain the bypass switch functionality for if/when I ever want to use the Whammy as a pre in the future.